Front Row — Page 15

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2024

April 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Options, options, options. That is what Ines di Santo gives brides for the spring 2024 bridal season. In other words, whatever you are in the market for, as a bride, Ines di Santo provides that for spring 2024.

Inspired by Haydn’s Symphony 54—also known as the ‘Surprise Symphony’—Ines di Santo includes several surprises in her spring 2024 bridal collection. As always with di Santo, there are lots of options for a variety of brides. Still, there are several surprises in this bridal collection.

Those unexpected inclusions range from bridal garments that work well on the red carpet, as well as bridal gowns that can be repurposed for other formal events. Standouts in this category are the brand’s RAMONE duet, the slinky gold PIZZICATO, and feathered CANTRELLE with its ombre pink color palettes.

This is also di Santo’s 54^th bridal collection, an accomplishment in its own right. True to her signature DNA, di Santo’s bridal collections are always a meticulous and delicate composition of hand painted floral details, dimensional beading, and fabric manipulation techniques, all aimed towards celebrating love lived in full bloom.

Orchestrating her signature design elements and celebrated dramatic proportions, Ines looks to create a collection that crescendos into Spring with a vibrant display of color and texture. “Every bride should feel like a flower in full bloom, beautiful and perfectly unique,” explains di Santo.

Other standout looks in this bridal outing is di Santo’s pale blue NONET embellished column gown with detachable train, fit-to-flare MOTIF gown with floral statement sleeves, strapless blue SYMPHONY princess gown with floral embellishments on layered tulle, and the brand’s blue floral CRESCENDO gown with halter top and tiered ruffles.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Season after season, Ines di Santo does not disappoint and always brings to her customer modern, fashion-forward bridal gowns that not only serve the ever-evolving taste of bridal consumers, but also pushes that proverbial bridal envelop into the future. Keep doing what you are doing Ines, we love it!!

—William S. Gooch

Mark Ingram Bridal Spring 2024

April 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Mark Ingram loves New York City. After all, he was born in the Big Apple.

Still, in spite of New York City being home sweet home for Ingram, the ‘City that Never Sleeps’ continues to be a source of inspiration. And, as New York City has, in previous collections, Ingram’s bridal spring 2024 collection looks to the softer side of New York City as a point of reference. As Ingram so aptly admits, “New York City [is] the keeper of my heart.”

That softer side of New York City for Mark Ingram is the carousel in Central Park, Shakespeare in the Park, Strawberry Fields, etc. Add to those more tranquil elements of Central Park Ingram’s homage to Lena Horne, Audrey Hepburn, Katherine Hepburn, and Grace Kelly, you have a bridal collection that is the penultimate expression of elegance and sophistication.

That said, this spring 2024 bridal collection does not reside solely in a reflection on the sophistication of Hollywood’s Golden era or a 1950s sophistication, this collection has an array of modern elements that would appeal to modern consumers. Ingram employs the current fashion trends of bows, which is this collection are elegantly placed or are detachable. Ingram also adds subtle hints of sexiness, making this collection a statement on how the modern bride wants to dress for that very special day.

This season’s gowns have moments of color in lieu of pattern, using muted boudoir hues that compliment any skin tone and feminine touches wrapped in a perfect satin bow. The sixteen-piece collection is luxury couture at its finest with modern-day sensibilities and timeless design.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

Standout looks in this collection, include but are not limited to the brand’s scallop threadwork embroidered strapless fitted mermaid with matching flared sleeve gauntlets with tulle horsehair trim at neckline and chapel-length train, crystal and 3D floral embellished tulle one-shoulder gown with soft trumpet-shaped tulle skirt, strapless short party dress with flippy A-line skirt, and ivory silk gazar strapless ball gown with corset constructed seaming on bodice with ruched Duchesse satin neckline with front bow detail and full A line ball skirt with pockets and Duchesse Stain bows and button detail on train.

—William S. Gooch

MADELINE Bridal Spring 2024

April 12, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are in the market for traditional bridal fare seen through the lens of modernity and glamor, MADELINE’s Bridal’s spring 2024 has bridal garments that will fit the bill. Though these bridal garments may require that the consumers have deep pockets, it is all worth the price.

For spring 2024 MADELINE’s Blossom collection tells the story of a delicate blossoming bud into a magnificent bloom. Evoking the whimsical feeling of being in a field of flowers, basking in the sun kissed glow of spring. This budding collection is reflected in the flourishing designs growing into its beauty and enhancing that which is already beautiful—the brides.

For New York Bridal Week, the spring 2024 collection was staged at New York’s TK Steak house with a breakfast for bridal industry professionals as the models model this outstanding collection. That said, this outing differed substantially from the brand’s fall 2023 collection. There were black bridal gowns, very few detachable skirts with high slits and nearly no gowns in alternative pastel colors, except for the exquisite one floral print gown.

Still, the bridal collection was stunning with lots of attention to detail with a heavy emphasis on floral embellishments. Standout looks in the collection were the pearl and crystal beaded three-dimensional floral embroidery on a satin ball gown, three-dimensional rosettes on an allover beaded tulle over Chantilly lace ball gown, corset-boned bodice on a fit-to-flare crepe gown with sheer back, and geometric beading design on a tulle mermaid.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

This spring 2024 will have a lot of consumer appeal and can lasts in bridal boutiques for several seasons. Because this collection can withstand trends, brides and brides to be will keep coming back for more and more.

—William S. Gooch

Kevan Hall Fall 2023

February 15, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

It is not common for an established fashion brand/designer to continuously evolve their style. In other words, what you see is usually what you always get.

Not the case with Kevan Hall. Though he has had a consistent presence in the fashion industry for over three decades, Hall continues to evolve and expand his fashion aesthetic. And his fall 2023 collection proves just that.

Inspired by the statement “Diamonds Are Forever,” sung by the iconic Shirley Bassey and theme song for the James Bond film of the same name, Kevan Hall demonstrated brilliantly how harkening back to an earlier era does not have to waterlog a fashion collection in an era long gone. Though this collection, entitled “Faceted,” is front, middle, and back heavy with familiar design silhouettes from the 1950s and 1960s, Hall elevated this otherwise vintage collection with some interesting modern elements. And voila you have a collection that modern consumers will flock to.

Playing off of the diamond or gemstone theme, Hall’s gemstone palette runs the aural spectrum from emerald and sapphire, to ruby and amethyst, each used to offer a sharp contrast to the buttery soft crepes and luxurious plush of Hall’s rich, deep velvets. Hall achieves a prismatic effect on many fabrics by using crystalline structured materials that refract light into a spectacular colorful treat for the eyes. Gold embellished tweeds give a continental nod to Parisian classics, while the high gloss metal accents lend a modern sleekness that grounds the two aesthetics definitively in the here and now.

The gemstone theme has been used many times before; however, Hall’s fashion perspective on gemstones is unique in that Hall has chosen to employ this theme just as we have moved out the COVID-19 pandemic and consumers are primed and ready to go about their normal life routines which includes dressing well again and experiencing urban night life. That said, Hall dresses his customer at every jointure of her day from the brand’s metallic tweeds to a prism pantsuit, and a stripped amethyst jumpsuit. Still, this collection was more about colorful nightlife garments.

Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, the collection’s stripped amethyst jumpsuit, winter white tweed bubble coat, turtleneck racer mini dress with rose jacquard taffeta bubble, onyx diamante mock vest tuxedo and diamante tap short, royal floral guipure lace mice with long sleeves, and stripped amethyst off-the-shoulder ballerina dress.

With so many fashion designers of Kevan Hall’s caliber no longer presenting at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Hall’s fashion shows have become one of the go-to fashion events during NYFW. with attendees including the fashion intelligentsia of the New York fashion scene. And Kevan Hall deserves all the praise and accolades worthy of a designer of his acumen and talent.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Hall’s fall 2023 collection proves that collections free of gimmicks and tricks will stand the test of time; modern consumers are not fooled. Fashion sensibilities and craft will always be the ultimate winners.

—William S. Gooch

The Blonds Fall 2023

February 15, 2023 by admin 1 Comment

The Blonds, oh The Blonds, what better show to come at the end of New York Fashion Week (NYFW). If one of the closing shows of NYFW should be a sellout and bombshell of a show, then no show fits that bill better than The Blonds. And The Blonds closed out NYFW in a bedazzled, bejeweled fashion.

Inspired by the sex kitten vixens of the 1960s and Hollywood movies that promoted and supported that kittenish aesthetic—think Ann Margaret, Tina Louise, Sharon Tate, and even Jane Fonda in “Barberella’’—this collection was an in-your-face tribute to 60s sex sirens. That said, gamine models with big bouffant hair and cinched in waist were at the top of the menu for this fall 2023 collection. And as with all of The Blonds’ shows, there was glitz and glamour galore.

“It’s all about celebration of color, sparkle, glamour. And this is sort of a tribute to Elizabeth Taylor, one of our style icons. And the idea of falling in and out of love,” explained David Blond. And though this Elizabeth Taylor homage—she did love her jewels—was more of the 60s bombshell path of Ann Margaret and Jill St. John there was a measure of restraint and reserve to this collection that has sometimes been missing from other fashion outings.

What was most noticeable about this fashion collection—other than the brand’s obsession with gemstones—was the construction of the garments, which was a major step up from the construction and design in some previous collections. No hot-glued, encrusted bustiers and headpieces on this fall 2023 runway; the garments appeared very well designed and constructed.

Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, a two-piece emerald-green velvet dress with big jewels on the bust and below the stomach on the bunched-up skirt. a mini purple Y2K-inspired sequin dress paired with knee-high Louboutin heels, a white cowl-hooded dress with an asymmetrical slit up the leg with a diamond-shaped jewel in the center, and a structured black mini-velvet dress lined with silver jewels and a purple jewel on the bust of the dress.

Images courtesy of Purple PR

Is New York City nightlife or any major city nightlife ready for The Blonds post-pandemic? Probably not, but they should be. So, get ready!!

—William S. Gooch

IN EARNEST by Byron Lars Fall 2023

February 15, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Though IN EARNEST by Byron Lars’ fall 2023 collection is a smaller collection compared to previous outings, it is no less of an important collection that continues to push the trajectory of the brand in the right direction. And the trajectory of the brand runs parallel to a reinvigorated women’s movement calling for equal pay, reproductive rights, and giving the modern women her fare due in society.

Inspired the power of the modern women, particularly the brand’s consumer base, Lars looked to heroic female icons for his fall 2023 collection. “My [fall] 2023 collection is all about valiant femininity with clothes that harken to a kind of heroism as I see it,” states Byron Lars. “While American women mobilize to defend their reproductive rights against draconian legislature, it’s no wonder I imagined clothes for them that would evoke images of an epic crusade the likes of which we are collectively on in this moment.”

Each piece of the IN EARNEST by Byron Lars fall 2023 collection is powerfully feminine with details that harken back to the days of medieval armor, but modernized in Lars’ deft hands to be ready for the modern-day runway (aka: wherever a modern woman walks). Like a faux chain mail cardigan, fortified with tiny filagree motifs, that has an alluringly unexpected transparency and doubles as an interesting dress. Each piece is so deeply inspired that one is not certain if they are looking at a couture piece from the latest runway show, or a piece that was just on display in a historic museum exhibit. The result is a collection that is layered with inspiration, layered with story, and layered with fashionable possibilities.

What stands out most vividly about this collection is Lars’ masterful ability to borrow silhouettes that well known and update those silhouettes for the modern woman, particularly his consumer. Medieval armor becomes much more than armor, but a compendium of a modern woman strength while remaining stylish and fashion forward. Additionally, Byron Lars is one of the few current American designers that has the ability to find the symbiosis between fashion, culture, and politics.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Lars never ceases to demonstrate his design craft and acumen. And we have come to expect his genius and brilliance every season!!

—William S. Gooch

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2023

February 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Bibhu Mohapatra’s runway shows are one of the go-to fashion shows during New York Fashion Week. And his fall 2023 is a testament why this is the case.

Mohapatra always has interesting choices of inspiration—from the Belle Epoque era to his current muse 1920s heiress and political activist Nancy Cunard—the deep thinker digs deep into intellectual and cultural/political movements for direction for his fashion collections. And this deep thinking makes for interesting and thought-provoking fashion collections.

“I have been looking to the life and works of someone who has been influencing me for a long time. Nancy Cunard: the poet, heiress, muse, and political activist, who played a pivotal role in the significant historical events that occurred during her lifetime. Artists, writers, social workers, photographers, musicians, they all found that unique flame in Nancy that made her a muse and a collaborator to all of them. Known for her avant-garde, eccentric and interesting sense of style, Cunard lived a fascinating life of love, passion, influence and eventually, self-destruction. For her courage and tireless fight against inequality and racial injustice, Nancy Cunard is always going to be my hero and I dedicate my Fall 2023 collection to her life,” detailed Mohapatra.

Mohapatra can be counted on for beautiful embellishments on his garments, as well as statement sleeves, asymmetrical cuts, and his surprising take on gown and cocktail dress silhouettes with surprises around every corner, so to speak. That said, this season there were a few less surprises, which is understandable as Mohapatra is striving to expand his retail audiences. (Bibhu Mohapatra recently opened his namesake brick and mortar.)

This focus on more retail accessibility did make this outing a bit more disjointed with the collection almost resembling two separate collections. There were the almost couture-like garments with all the exquisite embellishments and surprises we have all come to expect from Mohapatra. Then there were the accessible garments that on their own were quite fine, but in this collection did not measure up against the other couture-like garments.

Images courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra

Still there was a lot to glory in this collection. Standout looks included Mohapatra’s mustard leather turtleneck with see-through black lace skirt, black bralette and black slacks with sequin embellished black tulle overlay, white tulle top with embellished yellow and black sequins paired with leather mustard long skirt, and off-the-shoulder embellished white lace gown with tulle overlay.

—William S. Gooch

INHERENT Fall 2023

February 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

The fall 2023 season marks the debut of INHERENT during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Though primarily a menswear brand, INHERENT creative director Taylor Draper did present some women’s look in this fall 2023 outing.

Inspired by classic English tailoring, New York streetwear, and Ivy League styles mixing them all in a manner that only Draper can, Draper created his own unique blend of timeless and modern fashion under the INHERENT moniker. This successful mix of styles and silhouettes demonstrated that the brand can hold its own in a New York sportswear market.

The collection was constructed from wool, cotton, and cashmere suitings, twills, plush corduroy, and shirtings, with a serious dose of butter soft knitwear that showed up draped in thought provoking ways to create a feeling of accessible avant-garde. His rich color palette of moss and forest green, chocolate brown, and midnight navy, with a few other colors added in for accents, creates a sense of warmth and comfort during the colder months. The range of styles and silhouettes ran the spectrum, from traditional blazers and trousers to contemporary streetwear inspired pieces, all crafted with the highest quality materials.

That said, if there was one drawback in this collection it would be the choice of male models. Though there were a few male models that were good choices for this New York debut, there were several models that seemed out of place and did not show the garments off well.

Choosing to go with models that were closely reflect the brand’s male consumer base is not a bad idea if those models understand how to present garments well. However, if they don’t—which was the case in this outing—the garments don’t have the ultimate impact. When it comes to the female models, the choices were excellent with the models—whether standard size or curvy—showing off the mostly masculine silhouettes well with sassy style and panache.

Images courtesy of VERY NY PR

In this debut collection, Draper aptly demonstrates that classy staples can be stylish and fashion-forward. Bravo INHERENT!!

—William S. Gooch

KOLTSON Fall 2023

February 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

In case you haven’t noticed, we are about a year out of the COVID-19 pandemic. And like many industries, the fashion industry is experiencing a resurgence. The fall 2023 season, in particular, is witnessing an injection of innovation and creative verve missing from fashion weeks during the COVID-19 pandemic and before that.

KOLTSON is one such brand that is pushing that proverbial fashion envelope toward more fashion-forward innovation and creativity. And their fall 2023 collection is a prime example of just that.

Robert Rodriguez, creative director of KOLTSON, has been a recognized name in the fashion industry for over two decades. Rodriguez launched his eponymous line in 2003. And that namesake line was known for garments that spoke to women of all ages with elegance, sexy fare that incorporated elements of haute couture.

This time around, Robert Rodriguez brings a similar design aesthetic to KOLTSON. KOLTSON, established in 2023 by Robert Rodriguez, is a luxury eveningwear collection focusing on exceptional sustainable fabrics, beautifully handcrafted details, and uncompromising quality. The marriage of high fashion and art has fascinated for decades and continues to impact cultures around the world. Through collaborations with artists and artisans, KOLTSON brings a common thread between masters of their crafts. By engaging in exhibitions and editorial publications, we are supporting art communities while strengthening cultural awareness and vitality to our sole purpose.

For this fashion outing Rodriguez collaborated with Vicky Barranguet. At the presentation for the fall 2023 collection, Barranguet’s artwork lined the walls of the presentation venue. Barranguet drew inspiration from Rodriguez’s mood boards and overall vision for the series of seven paintings titled “Threads,” while Rodriguez reinterpreted her artwork in the forms of prints, foiling, silhouettes, and embroideries throughout the collection.

“What I wanted to do was collaborate with different artists and bring art and fashion together in a unique way. Through collaborations my vision comes to life,” explained Rodriguez. And the artwork and fashion aptly mirror each other, proving that both mediums are compatible bedfellows.

What stands out most about this fall 2023 collection is that the silhouettes and design aesthetic will appeal to female consumers from almost every possible demographic regardless of size or age. Whether the consumer desires form-fitting garments or ease-of-movement fare, Rodriguez has included something that will fit the design palette of many.

Images courtesy of KOLTSON/Raul Tovar

Having once designed for the House of Dior, this collection expertly includes design elements that lend itself to haute couture. Still, the couture elements in this collection will not distance the average consumer from these garments, only pique their interest and fascination.

It is good to have Robert Rodriguez back. The American fashion market is so grateful!!

—William S. Gooch

Cynthia Rowley Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Now that we are out of the COVID-19 pandemic, well at least metaphorically, fashion brands are trying to figure out how to regain their consumer base and even expand their consumer demographic. And one way that some brands are looking to appeal to consumers is to use the average consumer in their runway shows and campaigns. This inclusive concept works sometimes and sometimes it is disastrous.

For her fall 2023 collection, Cynthia Rowley employed this inclusive concept. And it worked, well somewhat.

That said, Rowley inclusive idea was drastically different from what some other fashion designers were doing. Instead of a runway show or presentation, Rowley did the unthinkable. She produced a comedy presentation at the Sony Theater with several comedians wearing her fall 2023 collection.

“I start each day with ten minutes of stand up,” says Cynthia Rowley. “I’ve long said I wish fashion were funnier. Not necessarily the clothes, but the attitude. After hosting a stand-up comedy night at my store in Montauk this summer with my friend and collaborator Seth Herzog (“The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon,” “Broad City,” “30 Rock,” “Chappelle Show”), it became clear to me that it was time to realize my long-standing dream to host so many of my favorite funny ladies on one stage.”

Wagging fashion tongues were hinting that Rowley was going this route, but no one believed she could pull it off. Well, she did.

Images courtesy of Cynthia Rowley

The comedy show featured some of the biggest names in comedy, the all-star all-female cast included comedians Nikki Glaser (“Welcome Home Nikki Glaser?” on E!), Rachel Feinstein (“Last Comic Standing,” HBO’s “Crashing”), Arden Myrin (Netflix’s “Insatiable,” iHeartRadio’s “Will You Accept This Rose” podcast), Rosebud Baker (Emmy-award winning writer, one of Variety’s “Top Ten Comics to Watch,” writer for Saturday Night Live), Claudia Oshry (“Disgraced Queen” on Amazon Prime, co-host of “The Toast” podcast), Ego Nwodim (“Saturday Night Liv”e cast member since 2018), and Michelle Buteau (Netflix’s ‘The Circle,” “Welcome to Beautopia”)with host Esther Ku (MTV’s “Girl Code,” “Wild ‘N Out,” and “Last Comic Standing”) hilariously tying all of the performances together into one hour of non-stop laughs. Though the comedy show was an overwhelming success, the verdict is still off it this was a good way to showcase her fall 2023 collection.

Though the garments that were able to experience included some trending elements—statement sleeves, sheer fabrics, and stitched-on embellishments—it was a disjointed way to experience a fashion collection. Still, kudos for Rowley’s bravery!!

—William S. Gooch