Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo Fall 2023

Manolo Blahnik, Charlotte Olympia, and Jimmy Choo, all major luxury footwear brands that female consumers want in their wardrobe. But what you may not know is that Jimmy Choo is more than a footwear brand. Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo is the brand’s couture bridal collection.

For fall 2023 Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo was inspired by Dante’s the “Divine Comedy.”  The Bridal by The Atelier’s new collection [Paradise] is surrounded in the light of the Divine Comedy, Dante once said, “express the love and affection to your dearly beloved.”

Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo constructed and spliced each fantasy image with different textured fabrics and created the beautiful creation of The Divine Comedy on each design with metal threads in different shades of colors. The celestial astrological patterns are also added with a strong art deco style which creates a mysterious, noble, sensual, and ethereal aura to the collection.

Like Dante’s “Divine Comedy,” this fall 2023 collection divides the couture pieces between light, dark, whimsical fantasy, and heavenly beauty. That said, this collection is not for the wallflower bride. This fall 2023 collection is designed for the bride that wants to make a statement on her very special day. Any gown in this collection will make the wearer the center of attention, not to be upstaged by anyone.

Additionally, if you are looking for a bridal gown to go with your ultimate fantasy wedding, a wedding that will be talked about for days, weeks, months, and years to come, this collection has that bridal gown. You can be the celebrity at your wedding!!

There are so many great looks in this outing that it is hard to make selections. Still, as we always do, Fashion Reverie selected a few standout gowns.

For those brides looking for non-traditional gowns, two gowns from this fall 2023 collection were standouts. The pale blue gown with embellished winter blue branches with high slit and Elizabethan sleeves is the ideal non-traditional winter wedding. Add to this gown the brand’s black diaphanous gown with detachable skirt.

Images courtesy of Coded Agency

And for that bride that wants a fantasy gown, the princess gown with Elizabeth high collar and floral embellishment is the gown that meets the fantasy criteria. And though the gown is heavily embellished, it is surprisingly lightweight. Fashion Reverie knows because we attended the brand’s presentation!!

With Fashion Reverie, you can always count on our choices to be accurate. Like the Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo, we always deliver!!

William S. Gooch

Ines di Santo Bridal Fall 2023

You can also expect an incredible bridal collection from Ines di Santo, she never disappoints. Season after season, Ines di Santo brings to the bridal industry superb bridal collections that expertly marry fashion-forward sensibility with traditional silhouettes seen through the lens of what modern brides want. With Ines di Santo, there is always now and next bridal fashion.

While some bridal brands are still playing safe even though we are no longer living in a COVID-19 world of constriction and lockdown, Ines di Santo is giving her consumer an expanded view of bridal creations. And that expanded view is evident in her fall 2023 collection.

Inspired by a child’s whimsical sense of wonder, Ines di Santo set her fall bridal 2023 collection in a garden with a magical gazebo as a focal point of that floral garden. Additionally, Murano Chandeliers are the center piece of Ines’s inspiration this season as she’s long admired their unparalleled craftsmanship, sophisticated yet whimsical use of color, and ability to spark imagination. “All worlds are within reach with an open heart and a vivid imagination,” declared di Santo.

Every design choice in this collection is meticulously calculated and executed. A showcase of the most extravagant hand embellished details, subtle playful color choices, and unexpected textures and finishes all the while following Ines’s signature fashion, offering a study of proportion and a celebration of the feminine hourglass shape. While they combine to create a shimmering dimensional tableau, you’ll find that each gown can live as a standalone piece capable of illuminating any venue, no matter the scale, just as the chandelier that it was inspired by.

This season Ines di Santo dressed her customer at every jointure of her bridal celebration. There were looks for the rehearsal dinner, the reception, and of course the actual bridal ceremony. All done with whimsy, frothy reverie, and luxurious beauty.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Only Ines di Santo can pull of the difficult task of bringing frothy fantasy to her bridal customer without looking like she’s trying to hard or the gowns resembling costumes. That takes skill, craft, and experience. And Ines di Santo has it all!

William S. Gooch

 

Madeline Bridal Fall 2023

If you are familiar with bridal designer Madeline Gardner, you are probably familiar with her bridal collection, Morilee by Madeline Gardner. With her well-known bridal collection, Morilee by Madeline Gardner, Gardner has forged a rich path of exquisite bridal collections that center around bridal gowns for that female consumer that wants elegance, sophistication, and glamour. With her new bridal line, Madeline, Gardner has gone a step further, well, maybe a few steps further.

Moving from the price points of ready-to-wear bridal collections to couture bridal collections—which is what Gardner’s new bridal line Madeline contains, is a risky venture. Sometimes, the price points double and your tried-and-true audience may not be ready for this new bridal adventure.

Whatever the costs, Madeline Gardner is up for the challenge. And here new bridal venture, Madeline, proves just that.

“The collection is inspired by beauty from within and the concept of being beautiful from both the inside and out. I design the [bridal] gowns not just to be stunning on the outside, but a tremendous amount of detail goes into the interior construction of each gown. I’ve curated the most exquisite fabrics that speak to the collection’s level of luxury and rich details.  My wish is always just to make the most beautiful gown,” explained Gardner.

Like many bridal brands that are looking to expand their markets, Gardner’s couture bridal collections contain a range of good looks including looks beyond the traditional white or different shades of white. There was an injection of pale blue into this couture bridal collection as well as a black bridal gown with detachable black lace skirt.

And though there were some traditional looks in this collection, what stood out most were the looks that had a significant injection of modern sensibilities. As in last season, there were several bridal gowns with high slits, which would appeal to those brides who want to show off their embellished bridal footwear.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection include, but is not limited to, the fit to flare lace gown with bell sleeves, strapless pale blue floral ball gown with floral embellished bodice, and black lace gown with statement sleeves and detachable silk skirt.

—William S. Gooch

 

Nadia Manjarrez Bridal Fall 2023

Inspired by the beautiful sunset she experienced on her honeymoon in Culiacan, Sinaloa Mexico with her husband, for this bridal collection Nadia Manjarrez injected an array of sorbet and colored skies. And this inspiration is made evident in the textures and embellishments found in this collection—recycled taffeta, Japanese nude tulle, 3-D leaf embroideries, floral fil copuè, and simple matte crepe bodices.

“Sunsets remind us to slow down, reflect on the achievements and successes of the day and prepare for what’s to come. I see this collection as just that. It has been one year since we launched, and [fall] 2023 was an opportunity to expand on what is working and savor how far we have come as we continue to grow and understand our customer,” detailed Nadia Manjarrez.

Expanding on the beauty of nature, Manjarrez put a strong focus on the textures found within it: billowing clouds, delicate flowers and lightweight feathers were brought to life by her in-house atelier team that hand-appliqued, embroidered and created dimension through 3-D leaf embroideries. Staying true to her original concept of modular pieces, the collection features removable puff sleeves, peplums, and oversized bows as well as gowns that transform into cocktail dresses with just one zipper. Voluminous ball gowns in a floral fil copuè and recycled taffeta provide drama for a bride looking to make a statement. Layers of shimmering nylon organdy swirl around the body to create a floating on-air effect. While Japanese nude tulle ruched over a simple matte crepe bodice gives a subtle twist on a traditional fabric and silhouette.

This is a collection that is for that bridal customer that wants something out of the box. Though there are some traditional silhouettes in this collection, Manjarrez expands on those traditions and injects her own sense of modernity and fashion sensibility.

Images courtesy of Nadia Manjarrez

Add to that melding of traditional silhouettes with a modern sensibility, Manjarrez, as in previous collections, infuses her Mexican heritage. This is evidenced in this bridal collection’s strong inclusion of floral embellishments and oversized bows and statement sleeves.

That said, what stands out most in this bridal outing is Manjarrez’s growth as a bridal designer. And this growth is a testament to her talent, her craftsmanship and her vision. Her customer base will not be disappointed, and her new customer will be excited!!

—William S. Gooch

Kelly Faetanini Bridal Fall 2023

A tenth anniversary is a significant marker at any time in one’s life. For bridal designer Kelly Faetanini, the tenth anniversary of her namesake bridal brand represents a decade of beautiful bridal gowns that appeals to that bridal consumer who is attracted to Faetanini’s interpretation of femininity, glamour, and beauty.

This fall 2023 collection is no exception to Faetanini’s bridal aesthetic. Inspired by the character of Carrie Bradshaw from the iconic television seried “Sex and the City,” Faetanini created timeless classics that would appeal to wide range of bridal consumers.

“This season, I found inspiration in the character of Carrie Bradshaw and her fearless and timeless fashion choices. This collection continues to present our brides with options for exactly how styled, dramatic, and fashion-forward they want to be with detachable trains, oversized bows, and optional sleeves. I had a lot of fun working with draping techniques that create exaggerated accents that are playful and feminine. We also have some Carrie-worthy texture and color, including black, blush, and feathers. I am excited to share this collection with you as we commemorate a decade of bridal fashion from the Kelly Faetanini brand,’ detailed Faetanini.

This tenth anniversary also marked the opening of Faetanini’s exquisite bridal boutique in the Soho district of New York City. The bridal boutique is nicely appointed with a comfortable, luxurious lounge appropriate for any bride and her friends and family.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this tenth anniversary collection—there were about 15 looks in this outing—included, but were not limited to, the Mikado strapless bow bodice fit-to-flare gown, one-shoulder Mikado ballgown with peplum cascading skirt, Mikado asymmetrical neckline fit-to-flare gown with detachable skirt, and satin crop top with black high-low ostrich feather skirt.

In this significant landmark year, Kelly Faetanini continues to prove that she has the goods, not only to satiate the ever-changing tastes of bridal consumers, but to keep her brand afloat for ten years. Hey Kelly, the sacrifices have paid off!!

—William S. Gooch

Inbar Freiman Bridal Fall 2023

When it comes to destination weddings, no bridal brand fulfills that kind of bridal gown better than Inbar Freiman. Founded in 2015, Inbar Freiman is a luxury bridal brand based in Kfar Rut, Israel. Inbar’s designs are an extension of her elegantly feminine aesthetic and reflect both simplicity and sophistication. Inspired by modern architecture and organic design, her gowns are made for the bride who values detail, quiet elegance, timeless silhouettes, and uncompromising quality, both in material and craft.

The fall 2023 collection reflects the soft and graceful qualities of the sea. The collection’s natural silk and chiffon fabrics are inspired by the ease of the ocean waves. As waves calmly crash upon the shore, the gowns drape seamlessly along the bride’s silhouette.

“The power of the current, the beauty of the unknown, and the movement of the soft breeze on the coastal shoreline harmonize together to create the Ivory Mist collection. Intricate details and neutral tones found upon seashells reflect the gentle subtleties handcrafted into the gowns. The elegant layers and unique lines that shape each shell are carefully cultivated in the sophistication of each gown’s design,” declares Inbar Frieman.

Standouts in this collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s Annabelle, a bikini strapped crop top with long silk skirt with deep slit, Eve, silk gown with deep decolletage with high slit, and Mika, lace gown with halter top and see-though lace embellished midriff. Like many brands last season and continuing this season, there were several looks with high slits. The high slits allow the brides to show off their embellished footwear.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

What is most obvious about the bridal gowns in this outing is the injection more sensuality and a modern sensibility into the collection which now sets Inbar Freiman’s bridal collection in a class unto itself about other destination bridal gowns. Bravo Inbar!!

William S. Gooch 

 

Badgley Mischka Bridal Fall 2023

In case you were not aware, many ready-to-wear fashion designers also create bridal collections. In fact, Vera Wang started her illustrious fashion career as a bridal designer. Add to Vera Wang, Naeem Khan, Monique Lhuillier, Carolina Herrera, Reem Acra, Dennis Basso, and many others, ready-to-wear designers want to expand into the 8-billion-dollar industry. And why wouldn’t they?

Badgley Mischka is one ready-to-wear brand that has done just that. For their fall 2023 collection, the fashion duo presented the collection as a part of a bridal breakfast at New York.

“We are using our favorite classic couture fabrication sumptuous satins, beautiful sheer chiffons, and georgettes, luxurious Mikado, gossamer laces, and crisp organzas. These dressmaker fabrics are used to create gowns of elegance and presence, crafted with modern constructions and techniques that result in gowns that look like a dream and feel like a whisper,” explained James Badgley.

“Our brides are more individual than ever, and that is the major inspiration for the collection. She wants to make a personal statement, and the Collection offers her many unique ways to create her memory—all with the classic BADGLEY MISCHKA style and elegance,” he continues.

There was a lot in this collection that many brides would love. Let’s start with the obvious. Like their ready-to-wear collection, there is elegance, glamour, and beautifully well-constructed bridal selections. And for that bride that is looking for the same thing that that Badgley Mischka bring to their ready-to-wear collections, the same can be expected for the bridal collection.

Our style harks back to the glamorous Hollywood of the Forties,” says Mischka. “The Badgley Mischka signature style I simple, streamlined and thoroughly elegant.”

“One zip and you’re glamorous,” says Badgley. “We like to keep things effortless. It’s fabulous if you can spend hours getting ready, but a woman should also be able to bring a dress to work and change there for an evening out.”

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Standout looks in this collection include the Alaina gown with Anakara cape, the Angelika gown with floral cutout embellishments, and Astrid fit-and-flair gown with large pale blue bow.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Mark Ingram Bridal Fall 2023

The bridal market is an extremely challenging market, particularly in the US. Yearly, new bridal brands flood the US market, attempting to get their share of an ever-growing market and brides’ ever-changing palette for the next best thing. Still, there is room in this evolving market for those seasoned designers who always have the finger on the pulse of what works. Mark Ingram is one such bridal brand.

Though Mark Ingram has made a name for himself as a bridal retailer, in recent years he is making his mark in the industry with his own eponymous bridal collection. In contrast to his contrast to his spring 2023 bridal collection that was inspired by the HBO series “Gilded Age,” Ingram returned to some tried-and-true classics inspired by his hometown New York City.

“My beautiful hometown, [New York City] was the main inspiration for this [fall] 2023 bridal collection. Such architectural treasures as The Guggenheim Museum, The Empire State, and Chrysler Buildings served as influences for my more tailored architectural styles. This is evident in the neckline draping, geometric paneling, and top stitched seaming incorporated in the classic styles. The more romantic and soft styles were inspired by iconic and beautiful NYC interiors such as the ceiling and molding details of the glorious Grand Central Station and the elaborate wood-carved pillars and finials of the Plaza’s famed Edwardian Room and Palm Court. The chic of Park Avenue, the vibe of Tribeca, the sassiness of Harlem, and the grit of the Lower East Side… I celebrate all of it! With this glorious city coming back to life after having been in a Covid sleep for more than two years, for me nothing was more fitting than to pay homage to the city I love the best!

Though there were only about 15 looks in the fall 2023 collection, there were several standouts. Ingram’s Broadway fit-and-flare gown with jeweled spaghetti straps, the silk Mikado fit-and-flare gown with silk shrug, the Chantilly lace mermaid gown with statement sleeves, and lace cocktail dress only represent an array of bridal attire that a variety of brides will purchase.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

And with each bridal collection, Mark Ingram pays close attention to detail with the best construction produced by an American bridal designer. With Mark Ingram’s bridal gowns, a bride will get great construction, as fashion-forward sensibility, and attention to detail, a real win-win. Who would want anything more?

William S. Gooch

Gita Omri Spring 2023

When it comes to diversity and inclusion, the fashion industry often lags behind other industries. Though the fashion industry has made a valiant effort including models of color on runways and fashion campaigns and top staff positions at major fashion publications do appear to be more diverse than in past decades, size inclusion seems to be the bottom of the inclusion totem pole.

Gita Omri seeks to change all of that. Omri knows all about the challenges of finding garments that are appealing to larger-sized women. Being a plus-size consumer herself, Omri has dealt with the challenges of shopping for her size, as well as the challenges of finding inclusion in the fashion industry as a plus-size designer.

For Omri designing for larger women is all about the fit. Instead of taking standard sized garments and just making those garments in a larger size, Omri specifically purchases textiles and creates garments with her plus-size customer in mind.

Omri describes her collection and clothing line as less about plus-size fashion and more about designing for women. This was quite evident in how the spring 2023 chow was presented. Omri chose to have a standard-size model and a large model walk side by side wearing the same idea.

Though this was a novel idea, it is something that should have occurred in fashion shows a long time ago. Most fashion shows that include larger or plus-size models will only have two or three looks on a larger model. Which means if you are a larger-sized consumer, it may be a challenge to image yourself in the garments modeled by standard-size model.

That mystery or challenge has been eliminated in Omri’s fashion shows. And for the most part this Omri’s approach to size inclusion worked. What was a downside in this outing was Omri’s penchant for sticking to very basic silhouettes.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Still, what this collection lacked in panache it made up for in fit and accessibility. And that is a significant accomplishment. And the addition of top model Precious Lee to the runway presentation was a boon for this brand.

If Gita Omri can inject more intricate design elements in her collections, there is no doubt that her brand will be one of the go-to brands for women of varying sizes.

William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Spring 2023

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) represents different things to different people. For some fashion industry professionals NYFW is the opportunity to see the collections for the upcoming season before the clothes appear online and in brick and mortars. For some industry professionals NYFW portends where the fashion industry in projecting via trends, color palettes, silhouettes, and inclusion and exclusion. For some folks NYFW is a variety of TikTok and Instagram moments; for others NYFW is a traveling party from one afterparty to the next. And lastly, for some fashion designers/brands NYFW is the platform to showcase a new direction or reinvention.

That said, in this post-pandemic era many fashion designers are looking for a new direction for their brand, as well as seeking new audiences. Vivienne Tam is one such designer.

Vivienne Tam has always been known for her distinctive use of bold floral prints and bold color. Every season Tam finds innovative ways to take traditional silhouettes and transform those tried-and-true silhouettes to an innovative distillation that reflects current trends with a fashion-forward sensibility. Her customer has consistently included that quirky downtown fashionista that wants to be the first to wear a trend or that marches to the beat of her own drum. Added that very special downtown young fashion hipster is Tam’s fondness among very hip Gen Xers.

At this outing Tam attempted to expand her consumer by incorporating metaverse and crypto aesthetics. “I wanted the creators of these NFTs—Cyperkongz, CryptoPunks, Awkward Astronauts, and Bored Ape Yacht Club characters—even those unfamiliar with NFTs, to be excited and to think, ‘Wow, they’re alive!’” Tam said in a press release. In other words, Tam wanted to “rewire the current fashion landscape.”

And that she did. Still, it was not the Vivienne Tam that many of us love and adore. This was a different Tam that might not sit well with her diehard fans.

Gone were the interesting twists on floral prints, bold colors, and traditional silhouettes. This new and yet to proven Tam really tried to go after the “floater generation.” A generation that cares more about comfort and ease of movement than elegance and style.

What was still in place is Tam’s penchant for good construction and whimsy. Was this collection a pseudo homage to Woodstock or the new fashion metaverse? It was hard to tell.

Though there were some very cool denim jackets in this collection, most of the looks were assemblage of throwaway separates. There was an early 70s-vibe, carnation bell-bottomed pantsuit that demonstrated Tam at her best.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Overall, this collection had very little to say and was somewhat a misstep for Tam. Particularly, the addition of the rail-thin male models with matted hair that looked one step away from a concentration camp or a detox clinic.

Stay with what works and expand upon that, Vivienne. Better luck next time.

—William S. Gooch

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