Morilee Bridal Fall 2024

2023 is a very special for the Morilee bridal brand. In fact, this year is their 70th anniversary. That’s right the 70-year anniversary with Madeleine Gardner at the helm for over two decades.

In celebration of its 70th anniversary, Gardner marries traditional bridal silhouettes with a modern elegance and opulent glamor. There’s lots of tailored layering, as well as sculptural necklines with some beautiful hand beading. Additionally, each gown exudes movement and a modern sensuality which all so necessary for modern brides.

What especially stood out at this runway presentation was the joy that each model brought to each appearance on the runway.  There was pride, there was sass, and above all the models really understood how to show off the bridal gowns. Which is understandable, after all this was the 70th anniversary of the brand, so a celebratory mood was in order.

This fall 2024 collection was an homage to Morilee. Still, the collection didn’t start and stop as a look backward retrospective, there were several bridal gowns that demonstrated that this collection was not just a tribute.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standouts in this collection included, but were not limited to, the strapless A-line wedding dress with optional sleeves made with organza and Mikado, strapless fit-and flair wildflower tulle wedding dress with a sweetheart neckline, off-the-shoulder ball gown in tulle with a layered fabric, and long sleeve trumpet wedding dress with a bateau neckline in tulle.  And it must be noted that the ballgown with black floral bodice, embellished with white floral rosettes was an absolute stunner and showstopper.

William S. Gooch

Peter Langner Bridal Fall 2024

If you follow bridal collections, you are aware that Peter Langer’s bridal collections are a mix of traditional bridal silhouettes and modern bridal perspectives. For his fall 2024 bridal collection, Peter Langer employed sustainable fabrics to impact the environmental challenges of climate change and global footprint of pollution.

In this fall 2024 bridal collection, entitled “The Responsibility of Beauty,” Langner understands that beauty for beauty’s sake does exist in world of its own. Beauty does have a responsibility, a responsibility to not just to inhabit the sphere of beauty but a responsibility to sustainability and the environment. There is an intersectionality to all things.

Additionally, Langner looked to the intersectionality of where beauty and opulence meet for his fall 2024 bridal collection. This rarefied space, though fantastical, is obtainable in this fall bridal outing.

Drama and taste for the spectacular reign supreme in Langner’s fall 2024 bridal collection. And though the drama is palatable, there is much to choose from that will appeal to a wide selection of bridal customers.

Like many of his bridal collections, Langner includes some red-carpet gowns from his ready-to-wear collection. These red-carpet additions reflected Langner’s penchant for spectacle and drama evidenced in exciting, asymmetrical embellishments.

Still, this review is centered on Langner’s bridal collections. And this bridal collection was stunning, with a few misses, despite the glamour.

Images courtesy of theimpression.com

Keep up the good work. Bravo, Peter!!

William S. Gooch

 

NARDOS Bridal Fall 2024

The US bridal market continues to attract bridal designers from the international market that are looking to make inroads in the largest bridal market in the world. Every season New York International Week plays host to international bridal designers that present during bridal week. Unfortunately, some international designers present for a few seasons and then disappear. With the American bridal market being flooded with designers it is no surprise this this market is hard to crack.

Nardos Imam is not one of those designers. Not only has she very quickly taken the American bridal market by storm, with her ready-to-wear debut during the recent New York Fashion Week (NYFW) spring season, she is also making inroads in the ready-to-wear market. Additionally, she has opened a standalone, brick and mortar store in New York City.

For her fall bridal 2024 collection, the brand conjured up timeless beauty. And beauty that extended beyond trends and time was the essential element of this collection.

“When envisioning our fall collection for the winter bridal fashion week. I drew inspiration from the texture and the blossoming essence of a bride’s journey down the aisle. The beauty lies in the textures, the purity, and the anticipation of the future. Our dresses symbolize a timeless connection, reminiscent of old churches, adorned with vintage headpieces,” explained Nardos Imam.

This collection contained 20 looks, all of which were the epitome of timeless beauty and elegance with an injection of modern sensibility. It should also be noted that this collection is an extension of classic silhouettes, updated for the modern bride.

Like so many bridal designers of her ilk, Nardos Imam understands that the excitement of collections is not always in creating something new—if that is even possible—but building on what already exist and presenting it in a new and interesting way. In the words of the great choreographer George Balanchine, “only God creates, I only assemble very well,” True to that quote, Nardos’ bridal collections are expertly assembled.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this fall 2024 collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s strapless deco sequin tiered tulle column dress, mini ruffle organza babydoll dress, lace embroidered sweetheart gown featuring a pleated overskirt, and tulle cap with hand-embroidered acrylic and 3D flowers with mini silk Mikado dress.

—William S. Gooch

Ese Azenabor Bridal Fall 2024

If you have never attended an Ese Azenabor bridal show, you are missing a treat. As one of the newer bridal designers presenting bridal collections during New York International Bridal week, Azenabor sophomore collection was even more impressive than her debut collection in April of this year.

Azenabor’s fall 2024 bridal collection reflected her fascination with flowers. “This collection is inspired by my love of flowers. I’ve named my Fall 2024 Collection “Blossom” because each piece celebrates the shapes and textures of flowers in full blossom,” explained Azenabor.

Florals for a spring bridal collection is far from an original idea. It’s been done before, ad nauseum. However, with Ese Azenabor,no  floral bridal collection has ever been presented in such a glamorous and luxurious way. Almost to the level of being excessive, but not quite.

Nigerian weddings are a huge affair, no expense is spared. And Azenabor brings this aspect of her Nigerian culture to her collections. These bridal gowns are not for wallflowers or shrinking violets. These gowns are designed for that bridal customer who wants to make a huge impact. And these visions of beauty will last a lifetime.

There was a bevy of beautiful bridal creations in the fall 2024 bridal collection, and the St. Regis Hotel ballroom was the perfect venue to present this collection. Here are a few of the standout bridal gowns in this fall 2024 collection.

Standouts include the Mikado strapless shift dress with 3D floral cape finished with beaded embellishments, fit and flair gown covered in pearls with strands of pearls creating a draped off-shoulder, short strapless with dramatic floral structure covering entire front of gown and detachable petal overskirt, drop waist long-sleeved gown with mandarin collar, and full A-line gown with high-curved point strapless neckline.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

The New York bridal market is all the better with the addition of Ese Azenabor. And finally, the New York bridal market is reflecting the much-needed diversity that modern bridal consumers merit and want.

William S. Gooch

Ines di Santo Bridal Fall 2024

If you have ever been to an Ines di Santo show you are confident that she will always deliver great bridal fashions. And her fall 2024 bridal collection was no exception.

“Whether it is a sultry corseted silhouette or a soft and flirty A-line, my interpretation in the way I cut and sculpt my gowns is to make my brides feel their absolute best. I want to celebrate and honor women from all walks of life, and the greatest compliment I receive from my bride is when they tell me they felt strong and confident on their wedding day,” explained di Santo.

And she overwhelmingly accomplished that goal with her fall 2024 bridal collection. This “modern perspective” collective gave voice to the ever-changing landscape of bridal aesthetics juxtaposed against modern architecture, as well delivering to the modern consumer a collection that speaks to the needs of modern brides.

That modern bridal consumer will be aptly satisfied with this fall 2024 collection that hinges on di Santo’s use of innovative interior construction married with the brand’s utilization of transparent layers over frameworks of corsetry. These combinations of structure and innovation have created voluminous shapes and silhouettes that embody modern femininity and sensuality. These combinations will sit well with di Santo’s modern consumer.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Though this collection had slightly less gowns than in previous outings, there was no shortage of innovation and glamour. And as in previous collections, di Santo dresses her bride at every jointure of her nuptials.

With this fall 2024 bridal collection, Ines di Santo continues to prove that she has her fingers on the pulse of what modern bridal consumers are looking for looking with an additional fashion-forward sensibility that will have brides coming back for me. Bravo, Ines di Santo!!

William S. Gooch

Justin Alexander Bridal Fall 2024

Justin Alexander’s fall bridal 2024 collection is entitled the “Art of Waiting.”  This is an appropriate title and inspiration for the mere fact that wedding nuptials are very special and based on couples waiting to find each other and experiencing that very special love.

“Step into a world where time stands still and love blossoms in patient hearts. The “Art of Waiting” collection draws inspiration from the profound beauty of waiting for one of life’s most cherished gifts and the timeless charm of patience that grounds us like the calmness of the sea. The collection is filled with 3-D florals, tactile jacquards, modern necklines, blossoming silhouettes, and just the right amount of sparkle. Each gown is meticulously crafted with exceptional skill and represents an embodiment of grace, elegance, and strength as we anticipate the most beautiful life changing moments,” detailed Justin Alexander.

As with all of Justin Alexander’s bridal collection there is something for every bride. There are several gowns that are very traditional with a few modern touches.

What does standout in this outing is Alexander employ of the 3-D florals that are strategically placed on several gowns. Additionally, the sensuality of this collection is a wonderful, fresh approach that sets this collection apart.

Image courtesy of Justin Alexander

Standout looks in this collection is the brand’s Grecian-inspired charmeuse one-shoulder gown with high slit, crepe A-line gown with exposed boning off-the-shoulder gown with high slit, fit-to-flare off-the-shoulder gown with 3-D floral embellishments on the bodice and shoulder straps, and the stretch Mikado and lace A-line wedding gown with illusion bodice.

William S. Gooch

Mark Ingram Bridal Fall 2024

If one wanted to proclaim this season Mark Ingram’s “golden season,” you wouldn’t be far off. With over two decades in the bridal industry, Ingram has opened his second atelier after launching his first atelier 22 years ago.

“This October marks what I call my ‘golden year,’ with a nod to the opening of my first Atelier twenty-two years ago, a milestone birthday, and the building and move to a brand new Atelier—as well, celebrating all of the brides and bridal fashion we have encountered throughout,” explained Mark Ingram.

Ingram’s new atelier is stunning, but even more stunning is his fall 2024 bridal collection. True to form Ingram’s fall 2024 bridal collection is comprised of classic bridal silhouettes with elements of modern accents, making this collection oh so appropriate for the modern bride.

What also stands out about this bridal outing is Ingram’s use of classic lines and embroideries that suggest movement, all inspired by flamenco dance styles and fashion of Seville. Ingram also employs interesting angles with a hint of asymmetrical influences which keeps this otherwise classic collection in the realm of current trends with a modern sensibility.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

Standout looks in this fall 2034 collection include, but are not limited to, the one shoulder diagonally seamed bodice A-line gown with a split skirt, soft squared ballet neckline tulle gown with cascading floral trellis embroidery, crescent-shaped strapless gown in celestial shower sparkle tulle with contour paneled bodice and pleated full A-line skirt, and crepe halter neck halter gown with cut-out back and contoured mermaid skirt.

—William S. Gooch

VERDAVAINNE Spring 2024

You know that you are solidly out of the COVID-19 pandemic when you start to see a plethora of red-carpet looks in fashion collections. New York Fashion Week’s (NYFW) spring 2024 season demonstrated that the pandemic is behind us and its time to show off glam looks on red carpets or your favorite events and celebrations.

Making his NYFW debut, VERDAVAINNE is a luxury red-carpet and eveningwear brand that is sure to make fashion heads stand up and take notice. The brand features stunningly imagined silhouettes with voluminous skirts that captivate with their architectural structure and graceful movement. The collection also showcases oversized high-contrast patterns that demand attention, and elegant kimono-inspired, trapunto stitched belt detailing that added an exquisite touch of refinement to each ensemble.

The collection also focused on neckline treatments, from alluring halter styles that exuded elegance to romantic off-shoulder designs that offered a touch of provocative sophistication. Bold and strong shoulders were also a commanding statement. A highlight of the presentation was the collection’s finale, a breathtaking wedding gown in chalk white that featured a halter neckline and a self-appliqué sash made of delicate white poppy flower petals, creating an ethereal and romantic masterpiece akin to a moving marble sculpture.

“I wanted to show something glamorous and generous in proportion but with clean, crisp lines. The use of colors was a must for me with the Neon Yellow, the Chartreuse, the Shameless Fuchsia Pink … it’s all about bringing fun to our clients’ wardrobes,” explained creative director Cyril Verdavainne. “With this collection we are going start to the clients. It is no longer about what I want to present as a fashion designer, it is more about my clients and what they want to wear to events and red carpets. I’ve been doing trunk shows for three years, and my customers are complaining that they are having difficulty finding garments that they want. So, with this collection we are creating garments that meet our customers’ needs.”

And this collection does just that. There is something in this spring 2024 collection that is appealing to a wide demographic and fits the needs of women who want that special occasion garment. Cyril Verdavainne also included several plus-size models in this presentation, something that we are seeing less and less of in the spring 2024 collections.

Images courtesy of VERY New York

For this NYFW debut, Cyril Verdavainne is off to an excellent start. And we anticipate what the brand will bring next season!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Love, Kelly by Kelly Butts-Spirito Fall 2023

Every fashion week, the industry tries to give a portrayal of what it believes is “what’s next” in high-end, futuristic fashion and luxury streetwear. But too often, they don’t provide the story behind the clothing itself. In just two years, Kelly Butts-Spirito, in his debut at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), gave everyone who was fortunate to spectate firsthand a great representation of forward-thinking and futuristic fashion,as well as his story and what brought him there.

 Butts-Spirito’s collections are from core moments and awakenings in his life. The Love, Kelly by Kelly Butts-Spirito runway show took attendees on a journey via a documentary film that helped share the true story behind each collection while also helping everyone connect and understand his creative vision and direction.

Butts-Spirito NYFW show came on the heels of an impressive festival he put on in Burlington, VT, last month. Despite the time crunch, Butts-Spirito and his designer and partner, Milo Rubin, were able to make 43 pieces in 40 days. “The garments were a mix of everything, from French cotton terry and an 80/20 cotton/poly blend for hoodies to a bunch of different types of denim; the only piece with stretch denim was the denim hoodie. We had a duck canvas jacket and leather patches on suede pants. We also incorporated reworked jeans into the looks, often adding flares on the inside or outside of the leg,” explained Butts-Spirito.

Butts-Spirito understands that creating a brand image through social media and any other innovative ideas, like when you meshed a documentary to fit into this recent runway show is a current innovative way to bring attention to your brand. “I think the most important thing in fashion design is perspective and feeling. I think the best designers have an interesting perspective on the world and they share that through dope clothing. The clothing that I think has the best design are the ones that make you feel something impactful when you wear it and look at it,” details Butts-Spirito.

This debut collection takes consumers through a cinematic journey of Butts-Spirito’s life, its complications, and everything in between. “The colors were intentional to match the themes of the emotions I was going through at the time. For the first collection, the feeling was very tan and nude color-based because the heartbreak emotion to me felt very naked. The film barely had any color correction on it as well because of how I wanted it to feel, which was raw. The second collection was all black and white because it represented going from darkness to light. The third collection is very colorful because it represents childhood, my home and the rebirth of me coming back to my hometown and redefining myself.”

Images courtesy of Owen Hammel

What can we expect next from Butts-Spirito’s brand, Love Kelly? “The fashion world can expect the unexpected from my brand. I want my brand to always continue to push boundaries while bringing new and unexpected shows and clothing collections to the world. A place where fans of the brand can always feel surprised by what I create next. I plan on bringing a winter collection to life and will be releasing it during the winter months.”

With bated breath, we can hardly wait. Fashion world, watch out!!

—Ryan Salfino

SIXDO Spring 2024

Does a spring collection need to include garments made of lightweight fabrics—cottons, light tweeds, lightweight denims, and diaphanous silks, chiffons, and organza? Not if you are SIXDO. You get all that, and a lot more!!

If you are SIXDO you don’t adhere to strict policy around which fabrics are appropriate for spring collections. And for their spring 2024 collection this Korean-based fashion brand employed a wide swarth of fabric choices that extended to light wools, tweed, brocade, feathers, taffeta, cottons, silks, and heavily embedded fabrics.

Interestingly for its debut collection, the audience was chalked full of folks wearing black and red with variations of rosettes on their garments. At first glance, one would have thought that this was a tribute to Christian Lacroix. Not so, SIXDO’s creative director Do Manh Cuong infuses rosettes and floral embellishments in a lot of his creations, so the audience mirrored his design aesthetic.

When it comes to the brand’s debut, Do Manh Cuong pulled out all the stops, with some of the best models in the industry presenting his spring 2024 collection to a New York audience that was packed to the rafters with fans and fashion industry professionals. Do Manh Cuong understood that if you are coming to debut your collection at one of the largest fashion markets in the world, your presentation needs to be on point and spectacular. And that is what Do Manh Cuong did. He delivered, and then some!!

SIXDO’s spring 2024 show turned out to be one of the best shows of the New York Fashion Week season with variation after variation on floral rosettes, polka dots, and ruffles. All accomplished with a mostly neutral palette with splashes of variations on carnation, red, and pink.

There is so much to wonder and choose from in this spring 2024 outing with a huge range of silhouettes and design aesthetics to pick from. And though this collection contained 50 garments, this collection was incredibly cohesive.

Images courtesy of fashionweekonline.com

Keep up the good work Do Manh Cuong!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

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