Dippity Don’t Says: May 2025

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Happy May everybody. May in Fashion means it’s time for The Met Gala, a.k.a. the first Monday in May. The Super Bowl of Fashion is here, and with May also comes a Super Bowl-sized amount of tea in the industry. From invitation scandals to what creative director is getting moved around next, much is afoot in fashion. Prepare your teacups, darlings, and don’t forget the finger sandwiches.

This luxury conglomerate is preparing to slash 10 percent of its workforce in response to Trump’s tariffs. While they are still sitting high and mighty at the top of the fashion industry, even they aren’t immune to the economic woes of the world. Most of the brands in their portfolio saw profit losses in the last quarter, and now they have to tighten the belt to keep steering the ship. As we already reported on Fashion Reverie, those tariffs are bad news.

This top fashion brand has declined to dress anyone for this year’s Met Gala. Many speculate it’s because they have only recently named a new creative director and want desperately to hold off on debuting any of his designs until September. While keeping spectators and the industry on their toes until his big debut is crucial, opting out of the Super Bowl of fashion is not a good look.

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In a slap to the face on a night celebrating Black Dandyism, the Met Gala and Vogue are being criticized on the internet for not inviting top TikTok influencer Wisdom Kaye. Kaye is considered one of the epitomes of modern Black Dandyism and was even described by Vogue as “The Best Dressed Man on TikTok.” Kaye attended the 2024 Met Gala, so it was shocking he didn’t get a repeat invite this year. Is it possible he did something to earn Vogue’s ire? Either way, maybe he’ll be spotted at an after-party.

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Martine Rose has emerged among the shortlist of designers to take over as creative director of Balenciaga. Rose’s consultancy was considered instrumental during the early years of Balenciaga, turning the brand into the much bigger household name it is today. It would also be history-making, as she’d be the first Black woman to hold the position.

Mr. Dippity Don’t

Met Gala 2025 Monday Awaits: What—and Who—to Expect!

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Fashion’s biggest night is quickly approaching! The 2025 Met Gala, put on annually by Vogue at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, will take place on Monday, May 5, 2025. Fashion Reverie is here to provide all the details, from the star-studded guest list to the run of show.

Let us begin with a bit of Met Gala history. The ball’s inception was based on the opening of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, which takes on a new theme each year, matched by the gala’s detailed dress code that all participants follow. Annually, the event raises eight figures that benefit the Costume Institute.

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About This Year’s theme

The Metropolitan Museum of Art announced the name of the Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” on Wednesday, October 9. The announcement spurred excitement for the thought-provoking and culture-rich exhibit, and allowed ample time for the invitees to curate their themed looks.

The exhibition’s theme draws from Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, by Monica L. Miller, published in 2009. The text explores the origins of Black dandyism, identifying the emergence of the Black dandy in 18th-century England, where formerly enslaved African Americans conformed to European fashion to reclaim dignity and challenge expectations. (Duke University Press)

The exhibition will be presented in 12 sections, each one embodying an attribute of Black dandyism. They are: Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook (also known as places of respite for post-emancipation African Americans), Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism. Echoing the theme of the exhibition, the infamous dress code for this year is described as “Tailored for You,” striking a more ominous tone than years past, leaving guests with subjectivity in how they might interpret it.

Image courtesy of F1

The event is routinely star-studded, and this year is no exception. A selected group of co-chairs will join Vogue’s Editor-In-Chief Anna Wintour, as the faces of the event. This year, they are Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Pharrell Williams. LeBron James will serve as an honorary chair.

About This Year’s Co-Chairs

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Colman Domingo is an award-winning American actor, director, producer, playwright, and minister. Outside of his endless talent, he is known for his incomparable style, which can be defined as impeccably tailored, cohesive, and especially refreshing in the menswear landscape. He routinely makes it on best-dressed lists following red carpet events.

Lewis Hamilton is a British racing driver who competes in Formula One for Ferrari. Formula One has long been associated with luxury, style, and refinement. Yet, the sport has seen a recent increase in association with the fashion industry, and it is a match made in heaven. Two luxury entities have come together for a mutually beneficial sporty yet fashionable marriage. Lewis Hamilton is set to be a shining example of this come May 5.

Image courtesy of harpersbazaar.com

A$AP Rocky is no stranger to the Met Gala or to fashion. Some know the American rapper for his hit song Fashion Killa, and he lives up to the name, increasingly reputed as a fashion icon. He is also recognized as Rihanna’s partner, for whom he named the famed song. The two are an iconic pair, and fans of the event are sure to wait with bated breath for a Rihanna appearance on this year’s red carpet.

Pharrell Williams is a jack of all trades. Pharrell is best known as an American singer, songwriter, rapper, and record-producing legend. Always a fashion legend, recent forays into the industry have solidified him as a mainstay. He currently holds the title of Creative Director of menswear at Louis Vuitton and has reinvented the brand with his innovative and forward-thinking eye, often paying homage to his hip-hop roots and streetwear.

This year’s Gala will dust off an old tradition, reintroducing a host committee, and this year’s list is star studded. It is comprised of André 3000, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Jordan Casteel, Dapper Dan, Doechii, Ayo Edebiri, Edward Enninful, Jeremy O. Harris, Branden Jacobs-Jenkins, Rashid Johnson, Spike Lee and Tonya Lewis Lee, Audra McDonald, Janelle Monáe, Jeremy Pope, Angel Reese, Sha’Carri Richardson, Tyla, Usher, and Kara Walker.

Image courtesy of wwd.com

A standout on this year’s host committee list is certainly Doechii, as this year will mark her Met Gala debut. The rapper/singer has been making music for a long time, but has certainly made a splash this year after making history as the third woman ever to win a Grammy for Best Rap Album since the awards’ inception in 1989. Moreover, she is a rapidly rising fashion icon status, and Vogue has certainly taken note. Doechii and her team nailed look after look at her Paris Fashion Week appearances this spring, donning major designers such as Schiaparelli. Her debut will certainly have Met Gala watchers anxiously anticipating her appearance.

A collection of red-carpet hosts of similar celebrity status will also decorate the carpet, interviewing equally star-studded guests. When guests enter the museum for the seated portion, each chair will be filled with one of the most prominent and influential people of the current moment, spanning fashion, the arts, sports, and politics. Once the last star leaves the carpet and the doors to the museum close, whatever happens inside is kept under wraps, thanks to a strictly enforced no-phones policy. What happens at the Met Gala stays at the Met Gala!

However, those who may not be able to have a seat at the gala can catch every detail of the red carpet from the comfort of home. This year’s livestream will be broadcast across all of Vogue’s digital platforms and YouTube. Singer and actor Teyana Taylor, actor and producer La La Anthony, and actor and comedian Ego Nwodim will host the official livestream.

As far as post coverage goes, be sure to check back here at Fashion Reverie for our best dressed list, and impossible-to-miss moments. With a theme as rich in history as it is in style, the 2025 Met Gala promises not just fashion, but a moment of cultural reflection.

 

—Marley Gifford

Fashion Faces the Aftermath of Trump’s Tariffs

The current focus regarding the economy is the impact of Trump’s tariffs on industries ranging from fashion to electronics. On April 9, President Trump announced a 90-day pause on reciprocal tariffs exceeding 10 percent for all countries except China, which briefly sent fashion stocks soaring. The stock market is still on track to experience its worst April in nearly a century since the Great Depression began in 1932. 

The proposed Trump tariffs are the highest in nearly a century, with some of the largest tariffs being imposed on major apparel manufacturing hubs worldwide. Trump’s tariffs include a baseline rate of 10 percent on all imported goods, with higher tariffs imposed on nearly two dozen countries. Vietnam will eventually face a 46 percent tariff, Cambodia will incur a 49 percent duty, and Bangladesh will see a 37 percent tariff. China will be subject to a new 34 percent tariff, in addition to previously announced duties, bringing their total tariffs to 54 percent, while the entire European Union (EU) will face a 20 percent duty. It is worth noting that Cambodia is the second largest apparel exporter to the U.S. after China.

Fast fashion companies represent one of the largest sectors in the fashion industry, currently clutching their pearls over Trump’s tariffs due to their significant production in countries like China, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Bangladesh. Tariffs on Chinese imports are likely to increase the costs of fast fashion for Americans, which is expected to result in decreased purchases from these brands.

Trump’s tariffs seek to reshore American industry and drive sales of U.S.-made goods by raising the price of imports. While this idea sounds great in theory, America lacks the manufacturing infrastructure to do so and hasn’t had the needed infrastructure for decades.

Rather than lead to the reshoring of manufacturing in the U.S., it’s likely that these tariffs will lead to product shortages domestically. The price of leather goods, clothing, furniture, and consumer electronics is expected to increase. Even fast fashion companies, like Shein and Temu, notorious for their exceptionally low prices, are expected to raise their prices.

Trump also signed an executive order in April, eliminating the “de minimis” rule for Chinese imports, which previously allowed goods under $800 to be imported duty-free. Beginning in June, these items will now see a duty rate of 30 percent of their value of $25 an item, increasing to $50 per item.

What some consumers might find shocking is that clothing prices are one of the few things that have seen deflation in recent decades thanks to the use of lower-priced fabrics, like polyester, and a shift to manufacturing in countries that employ low wages. The fast fashion model also led to lower prices accelerating new product cycles, creating more demand for clothes.

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Despite the concern over the increase in prices for fast fashion, sustainability advocates are also saying this could be beneficial in the long term for the environment. Getting consumers to purchase less will reduce the amount of clothing in production, thereby reducing the amount of clothing going into landfills.

Sustainable shopping advocates are hoping for a boost in thrifting because the U.S. trade war is putting fast fashion in a chokehold. More than 11 million tons of textiles were sent to landfills in 2018 alone, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Fabric in landfills doesn’t decompose and releases greenhouse gases that warm the climate. Much of the U.S. waste is exported to Chile and Nigeria, where toxic chemicals and dyes from textiles can affect the soil and groundwater.

In the wake of Trump’s tariffs, an unlikely firestorm has been set off on TikTok by none other than luxury fashion consumers. Hermès, the brand famous for their five-figure handbags, including the iconic Birkin and Kelly bags, already announced in the wake of Trump’s tariffs on the EU, that they will raise their prices by 10 percent.

This caused Chinese manufacturers to create viral videos urging people to buy their versions of luxury products to circumvent higher prices. One viral TikTok video from the account Sen Bags, which has since been removed from the platform, featured someone saying “Just buy from us. We use the same material, same leather, same hardware, same edge oil. The [difference] is that we don’t have the logo.”

Although an immediate surge in counterfeit luxury goods hasn’t happened yet, with more consumers now priced out of buying designer handbags with planned price increases, it isn’t unlikely. Advances in Chinese manufacturing have allowed high-quality replicas of luxury goods to grow exponentially. Some luxury consumers see buying directly from these Chinese manufacturers as a way to “give the middle finger” to Trump.

Apparel isn’t the only arena feeling the effects of Trump’s tariffs. Beauty is also taking a hit as well. Double-digit fees were slapped on beauty manufacturing hubs, including South Korea and France. South Korea, which surpassed France as the largest source of beauty imports to the U.S. in 2024, will see a 25 percent increase. This is expected to deal a blow to the booming K-beauty market. For smaller beauty brands, the tariffs will be especially crushing. This is expected to lead to some beauty brands going out of business.

Even if Trump found a way to reshore jobs, the process would be long-term. In the interim, brands are negotiating with factories to figure out ways to offset costs to stay in production and ameliorate their losses. These tariffs are unlike anything anyone in business has lived through today, so, it will be a learning experience navigating them. For now, we can only hope for the best for the economy.

Kristopher Fraser

 

 

Dippity Don’t Says: April 2025

April showers bring May flowers, or so we hope. Spring has sprung, and it’s time to debut the spring transitional pieces. If you’re inside on a rainy spring day, why don’t you enjoy a nice, warm cup of tea because Fashion Reverie has plenty of fashion gossip to pour over., There’s plenty going on in fashion behind the scenes, and as usual, Fashion Reverie has the scoop.

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Hard times ahead

All isn’t well at this publishing house. They recently lost one of their top editors, and employees have been forced to return to work four days a week with a one-day work-from-home option. This is a change from their previous three-day in-office and two-day work-from-home model. Several of their publications are also struggling to hit their benchmarks and traffic goals. It might be time for a shake-up of the top ranks at this company.

Get it together

Pat McGrath may have quickly turned her eponymous line, Pat McGrath Labs, into a billion-dollar business, but how the mighty have fallen. Her company has lost billions in valuation and has laid off staff left and right. The brand has been heavily criticized for product quality concerns as well as poor customer service. Orders have gone unfulfilled, and the company is slow to respond regarding customer service issues. Hopefully, the company will find a way to get it together soon.

Major moves

This major fashion designer, who previously was the creative director of two major fashion houses, is reportedly on the short-list for Balenciaga’s next creative director. Demna Gvasalia has left Balenciaga to become creative director of Gucci. Note that both Gucci and Balenciaga are owned by luxury conglomerate Kering, which also owns Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent. If the rumored designer in question takes over Balenciaga, expect some couture sensibilities and a return to Parisian extravagance.

Image courtesy of Getty Images

Sometimes you are in, sometimes you are out

This top fashion editor returned from Paris Fashion Week to find out she had been laid off from one of the most covetable jobs on the media side of fashion. She was a larger part of a bigger round of layoffs at this company, which despite its strong revenues, is still struggling with its digital traffic and online revenue goals. No one is safe from the ax in this media landscape.

Kristopher Fraser

 

 

 

 

New York Bridal Week Spring 2026 Season Pre-coverage

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One thing to rejoice about every spring is the bi-annual return of New York Bridal Week. It is a time for elegance and innovation when the bridal industry comes together and makes space for both reinvented and classic styles alike. Fashion Reverie is here to kick off the exciting week, covering shows, presentations, trends, and more.

New York Bridal Week (NYBW) graces the city twice a year in October and April, releasing collections a year in advance, meaning brides can get their hands on styles presented this week come 2026. This week, from April 7 through April 10, the best of the industry will gather to present and enjoy this season’s top styles.

The bridal collections in the spring season usually draws a lighter crowd than its October counterpart; and is usually comprised of more presentations than formal shows. Fashion Reverie will have boots on the ground; nonetheless, bringing you all the best moments of the season.

Image courtesy of Katherine Tash

The week kicked off on Monday with Los Angeles-based Katherine Tash, followed by New York’s Reem Acra. Several veterans are scheduled for the week, such as Galia Lahav, Viktor & Rolf, Monique Lhuillier, Ines de Santo, Amsale, Nardos, Lihi Hod, and more.

This season also includes several designers we advise you to pay close attention to, such as SEPT, Alexandra Grecco, and Evan Hirsch.

Image courtesy of SEPT

Born from the Sarah Seven brand, SEPT was founded in September of 2023 by Sarah Seven and her team. The budding brand has expanded the made-to-measure experience for brides looking for a highly customizable look. SEPT’s fall 2025 collection showed great promise, unsurprisingly, and Fashion Reverie looks forward to seeing Seven and her team continue to impress the masses this season, proving that SEPT is ready to make its own name for itself. SEPT will be hosting a press preview on Wednesday, April 9, from 7 to 8 p.m.

Image courtesy of Alexandra Grecco

While Alexandra Grecco is by no means new to the bridal scene, the eponymous label is available at its flagship store on Mercer Street. As of roughly six months ago, brides have been able to experience the cult-favorite brand in its purest form. There, brides can receive an entirely personalized experience while perusing Grecco’s coveted garments, known for their whimsy, comfort, and ease of wear. Alexandra Grecco will be presenting on Wednesday, April 9, from 6 to 8 p.m.

Image courtesy of Evan Hirsch

If you find yourself scrolling through TikTok, the name Evan Hirsch might ring a bell. Known for his famously convertible designs, which change shape before your eyes, Evan Hirsch is a viral sensation that has delved into the world of bridal. Last spring, Hirsch presented a collection at bridal week that ranged in texture, style, and story. Several presented looks were constructed from delicate vintage fabrics, which complemented his innovative creative process. Hirsch always brings an element of shock value to his shows and presentations, and bridal week is seldom the exception. Evan Hirsch will be hosting a press preview from 4 to 5 p.m.

Visit cfda.com/fashion-calendar/official-nyfw-schedule for New York Spring Bridal Week’s full schedule.

—Marley Gifford

 

 

 

 

Fashion Mirrors the Times: How Spring Style Is Referencing Eras of Socio-Political Turmoil

A beautiful thing about fashion is that it always finds a way to be a mirror image of our times. As we move into what is sure to be remembered as a tumultuous political era, we are now at the precipice of what feels more like resistance than revolution. Politics can’t help but ooze out onto our fashion choices, and the designers that remind us of the trends in a time when we need them most.

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The Black Power Movement

The Black Panther Party (BPP) emerged out of the1960s, aimed to confront police brutality, racial discrimination, and inequality facing African Americans. Members of the BPP combatted the oppressive systems of the time with self-defense, community empowerment, and activism. The group became known for their uniform; black berets, leather jackets, and carrying firearms.

While the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture (NMAAHC) tells us that the Black Panther Party Uniform was representative of much “more than a fashion statement,” it undoubtedly had resounding effects. The uniform stood out against past movements, where participants took a more conformist approach. To be taken seriously, participants would often dress in their “Sunday Best,” targeting acceptance. In contrast, The Black Panther Party uniform challenged this very notion. Participants swapped suits and dresses for leather jackets, berets, and firearms, and wore their hair naturally.

“An afro tucked into a black beret, sunglasses over the eyes, a black leather jacket ornamented with pinback buttons, and a gun strapped across the body with a fist in the air,” writes the NMAAHC. “This is the uniform of the Black Panther Party.”

Louis Vuitton and Burberry images courtesy of vogue.com

The resurgence of elements of this uniform indicates a shift in culture. While this season isn’t the first to show berets and leather jackets and certainly won’t be the last, this season stands out among the rest for the civil unrest that has endured in recent years. Wales Bonner’s leather berets sat atop 60s-esque silhouettes and other pieces, like distinct leather-adorned jackets. Louis Vuitton menswear, spearheaded by Pharrell Williams, showed berets in their spring 2025 collection. It also utilized a pattern inspired by luggage created for Air Afrique, the pan-continental airline that began operation in the 60s. Burberry and Jil Sander also showed off their leather jacket iterations this season, evoking a familiar uniform of yesteryear, revitalizing it in a global context.

Images courtesy of styledbyjade.com

Punk Culture

Tracing through recent fashion seasons, taking place during a tumultuous political time, one can identify a similar approach in resistance through clothes. And if there’s one word that is synonymous with the punk age, it is rebellion. The era was defined as a reaction to the capitalist and the gentrification leanings of the Thatcher regime. The people of the punk era were simply reacting to the sociopolitical unrest they were experiencing at that time.

“Punk” became characterized by resistance, rebellion, reaction, and boundless expression, and these attributes ran rampant across the clothes that these “punks” were wearing. Much of the clothing was heavily DIY-ed. Looks were heavily personalized with pins, patches, fabric scraps, and hardware, a further reflection of the sense of individuality and resistance to mainstream culture.

Images of Off-White, Coach, and Luar, respectively courtesy of vogue.com

Many designers took notes on punk this past spring summer season, Luar’s Raul López being the star designer, calling back to the trend in a big and personal way. Vogue’s Laia Garcia-Furtado called his collection “a modern iteration of punk attitudes.” López’s inspiration proves this to be true. “I was all teen angst and trying to figure out who I was, hanging out with the punk girls, the crazy girls, and the art girls downtown but I was still dressing like my family wanted to,” he explained in Vogue. “I was in my punk era, being rebellious … Punk is a feeling, it’s an attitude, it’s how you present yourself out of the norm and stand out and be you,” he said.

To view his collection is to experience a sea of black littered with exquisite detail and a natural hint of punk littered about. A gothy black lip is swiped onto models’ faces as they don textured leather, nipple-baring black taffeta, and studded details.

Image courtesy of hgcapparel.com

Hip-Hop and Rap

The cultural reset that was the introduction of hip-hop and rap dating back to the 1970s. The genre, referred to as “a product of African American, Afro-Caribbean and Latino inner-city communities plagued by poverty, the proliferation of drugs, and gang violence in the 1960s and early 1970s” by carnegiehall.org, started as a reprieve for members or former members of gangs as an alternative to warfare. The rap/hip-hop became an act of rebellion.

As the Hip-hop era took off, the genre started a fashion revolution. With the help of artists like Salt-N-Pepa and LL Cool J in the 80s and 90sto more chart-toppers like Missy Elliott and Kanye West in the early 2000s, the genre became defined by a distinctive style. Soon baggy silhouettes, logos on blast, and maxed-out accessories like gold hoops and chains became synonymous with the rhythmic beats of rap and hip-hop.

Images of Dsquared, Theophilo, and Tommy Hilfiger, respectively courtesy of vogue.com

In the spring summer 2025 season, designers have infused these elements of hip-hop style in their collections. Take Jamaican-born designer and creative director Edvin Thompson, who launched his label Theophilio in 2016. This past spring summer 2025 season, hip-hop was a screaming source of inspiration for the Brooklyn-based designer. Just reference the three graffiti-clad full looks out of the 27 presented, or the oversized newsboy hat atop a gold bikini dappled with smiley faces, and this will be evident.

The runway wasn’t the only place to spot a rebel streak this year. Take Kendrick Lamar’s Super Bowl Halftime performance, for instance, which was riddled with political metaphors, some more subtle than others. “This revolution will be televised. You picked the right time but I’m the wrong guy,” Lamar rapped on our screens. This was a call to action in a time where action is more than necessary. Lamar wore a very Y2K-esque bootcut Celine jeans and a custom leather Martine Rose varsity jacket, perhaps referencing his genre’s roots.

—Marley Gifford

How Trump’s Tariff Tirade Could Affect Fashion

The word on everyone’s lips since the U.S. presidential election night of 2024 is tariffs. Right after Donald Trump was declared the winner of the 2024 presidential election, searches for “what is a tariff?” skyrocketed on Google. A tariff is easily defined as a tax imposed by a government on imported goods, often used to protect domestic industries or as a source of revenue.

At this point, it shouldn’t be a secret that we live in a global economy. The phrase “no man is an island” rings no truer than when it comes to global economic policy. Countries borrow money from other countries, and trade has been global for centuries.

Earlier this month, President Trump imposed 25 percent tariffs on imports from Mexico and Canada and duties on Chinese goods, igniting trade wars that could affect America’s economic growth and lead to inflation. Trump’s tariff moves could upend around $2.2 trillion in annual trade. Trump is expected to go forth with more tariffs on April 2.

The Trump Administration recently announced a one-month pause on the original 25 percent tariffs on goods and services covered by the United States Mexico/Canada Agreement (USMCA). The uncertainty of what will happen with the tariffs is delaying critical supply chain decisions until greater clarity on how these tariffs will affect the global fashion industry. China’s foreign affairs ministry took aim at the Trump administration, saying, “If war is what the U.S. wants, be it a tariff war, a trade war or any other type of war, we’re ready to fight till the end.”

Image courtesy of cfda.org

Amid these tariff wars, the fashion industry is looking at how Trump’s tariff moves will affect the industry. As the issue often is with tariffs, the costs that the company has to absorb are passed onto the consumer.

Many designers who buy supplies from China, ranging from fabrics to zippers, could exponentially increase their costs. Fifty yards of certain fabrics, like felt, can cost as little as $18 in China, but in New York, the same amount can go for $80. Trump also said he plans to roll out tariffs on aluminum and steel imports, which could mean the cost of sewing machines could increase.

Over 30 percent of all fashion brands are currently produced in China. Although Trump believes his tariffs will entice companies to begin producing in the U.S., realistically, this is not feasible. The majority of garment workers in the New York and U.S. are migrants. Students come out of top fashion design schools and go on to design positions at brands, so the U.S. doesn’t even have the workforce for these manufacturing jobs.

Only three percent of clothes made today are made in America, meanwhile, America is the largest single country apparel importer in the world, according to the United States International Trade Commission. One in five pieces of clothing is exported to the U.S., and most materials come from either China or Vietnam.

Image courtesy of imageandcommerce.com

China decided to respond to the U.S. tariffs by imposing its own taxes on goods, and it has already had a direct hit on two companies: Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. PVH, the parent company of the two brands, has been put on China’s unreliable entities list. This could potentially force the brands to close down shops and manufacturing, which could be detrimental to their business given that China is one of the largest fashion consumer markets in the world.

While it is still too early to see the effects of Trump’s tariffs, it is estimated that this tariff war between countries could increase the cost of goods by nearly $1000 per household. While most items affected by Trump’s tariffs include food and materials for electronics, an increase in household spending on essentials could spell trouble for fashion.

Fashion and clothing purchases fall under the category of discretionary spending. With consumers now forced to spend an extra $1000 a month on essentials like food, that leaves less money for shopping.

Trump’s tariffs don’t just stop at Mexico, China, and Canada, he’s been threatening the European Union with tariffs. This could be detrimental to the luxury goods industry, which has already been grappling with a slowdown. Some brands might try to find ways around these tariffs by shifting production. Trade rules currently dictate that a garment’s country of origin is based on where it is sewn (with knitwear it depends on where the panels are knitted.) If a brand’s fabric was cut in China but it was sewn elsewhere, this could help avoid certain tariffs.

Image courtesy of CNN

Bangladesh is one of the biggest apparel manufacturing hubs in the world and has yet to come into the direct fire of President Trump’s tariff tirade. The apparel industry accounts for 85 percent of Bangladesh’s export revenue and 15 percent of its GDP. Companies, from Gap to H&M, all have factories in Bangladesh. Although no brands have made concrete plans yet to move their production in the wake of the tariff, it is a move some brands might consider if these tariffs pose a threat to profits.

A major sore spot for luxury brands is how imposing tariffs could benefit the counterfeit industry. Counterfeiters set arbitrary pricing and can now further undercut authentic brands that might be forced to drive up their prices. Luxury brands, including Louis Vuitton and Chanel, were already under criticism for raising their prices after COVID-19 amid supply chain issues. A further price increase exacerbated by tariffs could make counterfeits even more appealing to consumers who may want a brand’s style but don’t have the capital for four and five-figure bags that could become more costly. If consumers are forced to spend an extra $1000 a month on essentials, counterfeits are about to look even more appealing.

Image courtesy of Cato Institute

The one silver lining some sustainable fashion advocates see with the tariff war is that if fast-fashion prices go up, people might start investing in higher quality, longer lasting garments when it comes to what they buy. They might also turn to thrift stores and shopping secondhand, which are the grandmothers behind a large chunk of the sustainable fashion movement.

One thing that all retailers will be watching is how price hikes will affect consumer demand. If this happens, discounting is about to get extravagantly popular as brands try to find ways to maintain their revenues. Profit margins are in their era of tariff turmoil.

— Kristopher Fraser

 

 

Dippity Don’t Says: March 2025

Image courtesy of tallahasseedemocrat.com

We sit here lamenting that Punxsutawney Phil, the weather predicting groundhog, saw his shadow, meaning six more weeks of winter. While it’s still a little too early and chilly to pack the winter coats, it’s a great time to invest in spring transitional pieces. In addition to a new trench coat to keep you warm, how about you sit down for some piping hot tea. Spring has sprung, and Fashion Month is going in full force with New York, London, and Milan Fashion Week already concluded and Paris is on the horizon. March is one of the biggest seasons in fashion, and with that being said, many big happenings are going on behind the scenes.

This former top fashion editor turned fashion executive has been unable to land a new job or pivot to a new career. After a scandal in Page Six, it looks like he is living off his investor husband’s money. How the mighty have fallen.

Luckily for him, he’s still a fixture in New York’s front rows, but social clout has yet to manifest in what he’ll do next. At least it pays to marry well.

This New York showroom, which claims to be doing well, owes its former landlord over $50,000 in back rent. While the showroom claims to have left the landlord to move on to greener pastures, it was because they were trying to skip out on their rent bill. This showroom will have to pay up, and it might involve court.

Image courtesy of teamly.com

A top New York Fashion Week designer had to cancel his show at the last minute due to sponsors pulling out. While he was poised to go ahead with one of the biggest headlining shows of the season, he was forced to resort to press appointments instead of a grand runway extravaganza. It’s a tough time for young designers trying to navigate a crashing economy and department stores who owe them money.

Speaking of department stores owing people money, this top department store is losing emerging designers left and right due to how long they take to pay vendors. With designers unable to deal with their payment terms, many have had to turn to direct-to-consumer and focus on getting in more independent stores and boutiques to at least try and make up for some of that revenue. It’s so tough right now; even the big dogs in fashion are trying to cut corners and pinch pennies.

Dippity Don’t

Is New York Fashion Week a Bust?

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New York Fashion Week (NYFW), as the world now knows it, has been an international fashion week since the ‘90s. Although what is now NYFW was originally known as Press Week, founded by Eleanor Lambert in 1943. Lambert founded Press Week to showcase American designers during World War II when travel to Paris for fashion shows was challenging.

In 1993, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), led by Executive Director Fern Mallis and President Stan Herman, created a centralized fashion week known as 7th on Sixth in New York City’s Bryant Park, essentially birthing NYFW as we know it today. The Tents at Bryant Park became synonymous with an entire generation of fashionistas, particularly those of the ‘90s and ‘2000s, who lived through what many considered the golden era of NYFW.

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In the ‘2010s, the Bryant Park era ended, and NYFW moved to Lincoln Center for several years. After several years at Lincoln Center, NYFW was divided between Skylight Clarkson and Skylight Moynihan. Moynihan was eventually lost due to the construction of the Moynihan Station for Amtrak, and soon after, the days of Skylight Clarkson came to an end.

After that, NYFW moved to Spring Studios, where many attendees complained about the difficulty and time consumption of getting up to the studios in the small elevators. When the contract at Spring Studios ended, NYFW moved to the Starrett Lehigh building for one season, as guests complained about how it’s too far on the Westside of Manhattan with very few conveniences nearby.

Now, with no central venue, longtime attendees of NYFW have been left disgruntled, and for those who aren’t new to NYFW, the consensus is the event no longer has the luster it once had. Lack of a central location, perks editors once saw as a thing of the past, and far fewer sponsors are among the many things people have said caused NYFW to pale.

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Fashion writer Jewel Elizabeth told Fashion Reverie, “They need to bring back Spring Studios. It was perfect for making connections and capturing the energy. Everyone in that building had the same dream of finding success in fashion. Also, you could run downstairs to the Tresemmé Salon and get your hair done, see a designer presentation on the fourth floor, and then go to a runway show on the sixth floor. Even the people you met in the hallway were magical. I made so many friends and connections at Spring Studios.”

Despite Spring Studios being criticized for its elevator accommodation situation, it was surely missed as a central hub. Elizabeth even enjoyed the one season at Starrett Lehigh, saying, “There was Wi-Fi and a food hall.”

Her sentiments on needing to bring back a central location were echoed by longtime fashion columnist Catherine Salfino, who has been attending NYFW for nearly 30 years. “Running around to all points of Manhattan is ridiculous,” she said. “Knowing show locations when we request show invitations would also be nice. Members of the media should have press registration again, along with a PR contact list. All shows showing during NYFW should be on one calendar. Nowadays, I only attend two days of shows because it’s such a drag. There is no glamour, fun, or interest in the industry to create a cohesive event. The industry wants NYFW to be the Super Bowl of fashion, but the NFL would never have such an incohesive mess.”

As it currently stands, there is the CFDA calendar, considered the official calendar by many, and also the IMG calendar, which are both shows affiliated with the producers of NYFW. This can be very confusing for editors, attendees, and those trying to attend as much as possible.

Beyond NYFW attendees, models are feeling the brunt of how NYFW has changed. Those models who have been in the industry for many years think that the past few seasons have seen less body diversity, and the clothes don’t seem as new.

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Model Dhanu Prathap told Fashion Reverie, “I would have loved to see different body types on the runway. Also, the clothes themselves feel like remixes of things I’ve already seen. The past season of NYFW was underwhelming on many fronts.”

Model Laura Arumugam expanded on that, saying, “[Fashion Week] needs more discussion around sustainable fashion as fashion is one of the world’s largest polluters.” She also added that “there needs to be more inclusion and diversity of models. Beyond just more plus and curve girls, there should be more models of various heights, ages, and ethnic backgrounds.”

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Some models have also said that the rise in the number of social media influencers is also taking away from the models, who should be the focus on the runway, and inviting influencers just for social media reach is taking away from the exclusivity of NYFW. In addition to the frustrations models are facing, emerging designers are also finding there is a lack of support for fresh talent.

Braedy Luxenburg, a New York-based fashion designer who launched his brand after graduating from Kent State in 2022, has been slowly growing his brand. He had the honor of being featured on CFDA’s online platform, Runway 360, where designers could showcase their new season collections digitally.

Over the past two years, he’s been working on direct-to-consumer sales and finding retailers. However, as a new designer, he hasn’t even attempted to navigate the NYFW landscape, as it is both costly and overwhelming.

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“There should be better ways that NYFW uplifts emerging designers,” Luxenburg said. “Rather than encouraging people to jump into the never-ending financial burden of participating via fashion shows, there should be other ways to grab attention that [the CFDA] took the lead on.”

Some suggestions that have been made to support emerging designers include giving them their own showcase during NYFW and creating pop-up shops dedicated to emerging brands. Other suggestions have included putting emerging designers on more panels and featuring them on the official fashion calendar.

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Needless to say, NYFW isn’t what it once was, but all hope isn’t lost. Starting with something as simple as one central location could help create some spark and joy for the event. Hopefully, the CFDA will find a central venue, and invest in more new talent.

Kristopher Fraser

 

New York Fashion Week Fall 2025 Season Recap

The New York Fall (NYFW) fall 2025 season saw an overwhelming sense of nostalgia, fused with a forward projection. Resounding themes across several collections seemed to be a celebration of artistry, childhood, memory, and chiefly, hope. Designers like Thom Browne and Christopher John Rogers harnessed messages of resilience throughout their collections and presentations.

This season saw reunions, returns to the industry, and an overall sense of play. Sandy Liang reached directly into her own childhood after birthing her daughter. Collina Strada joined in on the reflection, heavily referencing the 1990s while staying modern. Individually, the fall collections of 2025 underscored how fashion can bring forward the warmth of the past, but also voice the future, carrying us through tumult with artistry, emotion, and celebration.

Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch

Thom Browne

This season, Thom Browne plucked inspiration from birds, and his collection soared. Bridlike references ranged from shape, to color, to motif, stunning displays of craftsmanship and color theory. Set against a backdrop of origami birds, the academia-leaning looks with layered tweeds and plaids sparked reminders to Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds.” Instead of a horror reference, Browne hoped to utilize the bird as a symbol of hope in turbulent times for the world, political climate, and fashion industry.

Images courtesy of Filippo Fior

Christopher John Rogers

A celebratory reunion was due to Christopher John Rogers after a two-year hiatus. The clothes reflected this jubilant rejoining. No stranger to color, Rogers’ collection was a magnificent display of unlikely pairings that simply worked. Bordeaux, canary yellow, chartreuse, and teal were among the star colors that made the collection one big party, one big homecoming. Welcome home, Rogers!

Images courtesy of Filippo Fior

Sandy Liang

Playful is the word that comes to mind for Sandy Liang’s debut show since becoming a new mother. The collection was an ode to nostalgia, with ‘90s references to childhood toys and school supplies. Popular among the Gen Z generation, her pieces have the twenty-something consumer in mind, tugging at hazy memories of the decade while incorporating practicality. Color-blocked pastels and smooth, slippery textures harken to an almost Polly Pocket-like aesthetic. Oversized windbreakers and quarter zips act like hand-me downs tossed over girlish floral printed skirts and minis. One skirt featured a trompe l’oeil of accessories likely found in the backpack of any given ‘90s girl: a planner book, an SMS device, two kitschy flower necklaces, and what appears to be a Tamagotchi-esque toy.

Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini

Collina Strada

Collina Strada’s fall collection evokes the undercurrents of pop culture’s resurgence of ‘90s grunge and modern emo pop, brought on by the likes of house and pop music icons of late. Hillary Taymour turned up the texture this season, showing shreds of ribbon, tattered woolen knits, layered laces, and ruffles.

A tee shirt of butterflies feasting on an open orange read “girl dinner,” catering to youthful fashion lovers that are in on Gen Z lingo. An interesting facet of the collection was the other worldly ways in which models’ hair was crimped just so to mimic horns. Bug-eyed glasses sat atop alienlike speckled faces. Forever compelling, Collina Strada keeps fashionphiles fed.

Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch

Anna Sui

For her refreshing-as-ever collection, Anna Sui turned to fashion heiresses of yesteryear, Doris Duke, Barbara Hutton, and Peggy Guggenheim. Anna Sui managed to weave these references with part of her legacy, coveted collector’s pieces. The marriage between cheeky magentas and blues against brown textures is a delightful summation of the two aesthetics that align to be completely original. Anna Sui takes aged elements and makes them entirely modern in a way that feels natural.

Images courtesy of Khaite

Khaite

Cult-favorite Khaite had a focused concept this season, taking inspiration chiefly from the late great American filmmaker David Lynch, referencing his films such as “Wild at Heart.” Her collection also stayed true to her customer: The New York City fashion girlie (gender used interchangeably, here).

Leather was the star of the show and for good reason, as Khaite always does the textile well. Glossy leather jackets and gloves set against felty newsboy caps served up a delightful juxtaposition of texture. Always a tailoring triumph, Khaite did her wearer proud this season.

Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini

Tory Burch

The Tory Burch girl is so back, and she is cooler than ever. Just ask her front row of spectators: fashion’s most prolific cool girls and influencers. This collection was an ode to what Burch does best: American sportswear. This particularly iteration featured a twist, which has marked Burch’s recent seasons. In fact, the collection, as a whole, was somewhat of an optical illusion. From afar, a well-tailored, polished, stylish amalgamation of her wearer. Upon closer inspection, curious details become apparent. A sleeve tacked across the chest and on the opposite shoulder mimics a shawl. Cropped jackets with myriads of pockets disguise themselves against a striking solid color. A seemingly tweed coat is surreptitiously freckled by sequins instead of woolen threads. Burch figures out a way to reinvent classics season after season and has fun all the while.

Images courtesy of Fillipo Fior

Bibhu Mohapatra

This past year, Bibhu Mohapatra traveled to India to scatter the ashes of his parents and older brother. With their funeral came unexpected memories of his childhood, and his collection reflected this, particularly his mother’s artwork.

Some looks elaborate in texture and pattern while others are monochrome and pared down. A shearling leather jacket worn over a purple sunburst floor-length gown shined. A black and white spaghetti-strap moment paired with matching red boots and evening gloves felt heroic. Mohapatra found the common ground between catering to his customer and telling his own beautiful story.

—Marley Gifford

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