Womenswear — Page 19

Mark Ingram Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by vintage bridal collections, the recent Dior exhibit and HBO’s “Gilded Age,” Mark Ingram infused his collection with a combination of classic silhouettes and modern points of view all seen through the lens of what modern brides want to wear. What stands out most in this bridal collection is Ingram’s attention to detail and his construction stills, which he honed at the iconic fashion houses of Oscar de la Renta and Caroline Herrera.

“My inspiration was the process of couture and going to Dior show at the Brooklyn Museum, in Paris and later in Brooklyn. It was a very personal showing because you get the opportunity to be up close and personal view of the details that Christian Dior used in couture collections. I hope the couture process came through in what I executed this season,” explains Ingram.

And yes, Mark, the couture process did come through. And true to the art of couture, Mark Ingram paid close attention to the techniques necessary to make couture the focus of this collection.

Though this collection was a fashion compendium on couture techniques and classic silhouettes, Ingram did ingeniously inject some modern elements into this bridal collection. There were several garments that contained detachable trains and bows, and one garment had a skirt that could be transformed from a typical skirt with small train to a high-low tea dress.

There were several bridal gowns that were accompanied by stunning bolero jackets. Ingram wisely included these bolero jackets to accompany gowns that were strapless in case spring weather is on the chilly side. There were also a couple of garments that had deceptively hidden openings where brides can show off their jewel-embellished shoes in Instagram photos.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

One of other element that should be mentioned is Ingram using his bridal showroom appointment to educate industry professionals about his choices in fabric, construction, and various couture techniques. This was a very rare treat and harkens back to the golden age of couture when fashion designers interacted in a very personal way with fashion industry professionals. Very smart addition Mark Ingram, keep up the good work!!

William S. Gooch

Lihi Hod Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Lihi Hod founded her eponymous bridal house in 2010 built upon the precious jewels of her education with Shenkar, the leading fashion design school in Israel and her couture work with John Galliano of Dior Paris. Her background is practically written in delicate pearls on each of her bridal pieces as every creation is meticulously detailed and fits like an ivory silk glove. According to Hod, her pieces “combine couture-quality techniques with classic silhouettes and luxurious textures, focusing not only on the bride’s look but also on her comfort, confidence and ease.” This quality of an airy ease blossoms in her latest couture spring 2023 “Mystic Flower” collection inspired by her experience observing garden flowers in bloom.

The collection has an ethereal quality, and invokes a weightless feel, like thin ivory petals floating in the wind’s breath. Like the flowers Hod observed, her brides look naturally graceful, as she says “The gowns are created to enhance the bride with graceful beauty and strength, much like the flower petals as they begin to open to a full bloom. The collection is made of fabrics that were carefully chosen for their natural beauty, combined with meticulous detailing and flawless craftsmanship: silk organza, Mikado and crepe, adorned with hand-embroidery made especially for Lihi Hod.” This sense of effortless natural beauty is enhanced by the collection’s minimal makeup and hair styling. A bride in a swept back ponytail and soft eye makeup rests her silk gown across linen cushions of blue and white floral. To Lihi Hod’s bride, elegance is easy, and her wedding day is where her natural beauty shines.

The varying classic silhouettes in the collection seem to depict the phases of a flower in bloom. Lihi Hod says the collection defines, “a powerful moment that becomes utterly uplifting—the thing that is born, rolling out, taking shape from one organism to a new more beautiful one.” Some gowns are fitted to the body like a flower whose petals have yet to open; Both the “Terra” and “Jasmine” gowns, for example, are draped around the bodice like a flower’s petals tightly held together before bloom. Some gowns, like the “Nadia” and “Lilu,” feature delicately puffed sleeves like the budding top of a rose. In other gowns, like the “Noa,” the silk opens in a full bloom display of beaded floral appliques on a sweetheart neckline and puffed skirt like outstretched petals.

Images courtesy of Lihi Hod

In bridal fashion, the details are some of the most important elements. Lihi Hod says in the collection there is “the element of surprise as the beauty hidden beneath is slowly revealed.” In a touch of 1920s inspired details, the “Ella” is romantically peppered with feathered floral appliques and the “Terra” sheer panels hold fine pearls. The “Nova” corsetry is beaded in shapes of the leaves on a vine. White rounded buttons grace the spine of the bride in the “Camille” dress while a sheer puff sleeved cape billows softly over the shoulders of the bride in another look. Finally, of course, a bride is not a bride without her diamond ring which holds the silk glove covered ring finger of Lihi Hod’s bride. To view the full collection, visit lihihod.com!

—Tessa Swantek

INBAR FREIMAN Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Deep into Union Square Market and away from the torrential downpour that had placed itself over Manhattan, New York International Bridal Fashion Week was in full swing with many designers showing to buyers and select media under one roof. There was a calm excitement throughout the venue, with most people mentioning how good it felt to be back around colleagues to see clothes in person.

At INBAR FREIMAN’s spring 2023 collection, something special was taking place for her spring 2023 collection. Among an assortment of gowns in ivory adorned in Solstiss lace and delicate beading, Freiman perfectly married art and fashion, infusing her unique design language to create an enduring aesthetic. The dresses were effortlessly chic and amazingly calm in their presentation, and they moved with an air of lightness across the room without being stiff and overdone with piles of fabric.

Her spring 2023 collection, entitled “Fairy Dreams,” is for the confident bohemian woman who is relaxed in her demeanor and believes that comfort and luxury should co-exist together. The gowns are lifestyle-driven, punctuated by their ability to move in unison with the bride. “Fairy Dreams” can be best described as a journey for the eyes to feast on a palette of sumptuously natural fabrics in an assortment of soft silks, delicate lace, and layered chiffon.

The inspiration behind “Fairy Dreams” was birthed from dreaming about a brighter future after the worldwide circumstances of the last two years. This idea, a focusing point, also has roots in the Hebrew language. The phrase Atit Varod, or “pink/bright future” was essential to the creative process and rooted the collection in forward motion toward something new.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

In many ways, Freiman captured the essence of the moment. Not just in her ideas about the future but also in how she thinks about the garment’s construction. Each gown has an ease of movement that is symbolic of moving towards a bright new future. And isn’t that what every new bride is hoping for?

—Kristopher Hoyle

Sophie et Voila Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Many words and feelings rush to mind when thinking of Sophie et Voila’s spring 2023 collection. Of those many descriptive thoughts and ideas, the collection embodies a sense of modern refinement understated without complicated adornments. The collection, entitled Cristóbal, an ode to Spanish designer and couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga focuses on simple, sleek lines that conform elegantly to the shape and curve of a woman’s body.

In many ways, the collection exemplifies the unparalleled mastery commanded by Balenciaga, refining garments to their simplest and purest forms. No small feat for any designer, no matter how talented, but Sofia Arribas masters balancing sophistication with simple silhouettes and uncompromising standards, solidifying the DNA of the Sophie et Voila brand.

Originally an architect (Sofia Arribas) with Philippe Starck, you get a sense of the amount of thought and attention to detail woven into the creation of each dress. For example, the way a puffed organza sleeve is constructed, subtly changing shape at the slightest movement, or how the designer doubles the fabric of each dress so that the second layer serves as a slip, reducing the appearance of lines and creating a more form-fitting garment that moves with the bride.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Each piece from the collection is a marvel that stands on its own and is a testament to Arribas’ design language that is uniquely her own in a world. As Sophia Arribas explains, “[in a world where being true to oneself is a luxury that very few can afford.”

—Kristopher Johnson-Hoyle

Nadia Manjarrez Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Of the many collections presented at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYBFW), Nadia Manjarrez’s spring 2023 was impressive, with precise attention to detail while keeping the collection versatile and accessible to most women. What was most striking about the collection was the ability for most pieces to be mixed and matched while retaining the ethos of the Nadia Manjarrez brand. For example, a beautiful, C works double-time with a hidden zipper that allows the underskirt to detach, revealing a cocktail dress.

That kind of multi-level forward-thinking is unique in the bridal industry, and it addresses the modern needs of brides by anticipating the fullness of their day from marriage ceremony to reception, moving from one to the other seamlessly. That design philosophy was ever-present throughout the collection and stood out amongst others as a hail toward a new way of understanding the multiple functions a gown can assume.

Nadia Manjarrez’s spring 2023 collection, paid homage to her Mexican heritage. Manjarrez explained that the collection, “…explore[d] the significance and mystique surrounding wedding rituals.” The collection breathed modernity into traditional Mexican ball gowns, adding removable puff sleeves, detachable trains, and beautifully beaded and embroidered flower details. Also present was intricate embroidery on recycled taffeta, 3D floral embroidered tulle, and hand-drawn crocheted lace. These touches gave the collection a strong identity and framed the collection with an authenticity that is distinct and different “[…for the bride who wants the sentiment of heritage, but is a contemporary woman destined for progress].”

Images courtesy of Nadia Manjarrez

For brides who are conscious of sustainability, Nada Manjarrez offers an upcycling program that reimagines gowns and dresses, increasing the life cycle of a garment. Manjarrez’s ability to think ahead is crucial in today’s fashion industry when sustainability is so important to the health and wellbeing of the global ecosystem.

Kristopher Hoyle

THEIA Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

There are a few words that could describe THEIA’s spring 2023 bridal collection. However, if one was to choose just two words, those two words would be clean lines. Well, let’s also add classic silhouettes to the vocabulary.

As we are slowly coming out of the COVID-19 health crisis, many brands are not only struggling to gain new customers, keeping tried-and-true customers is also a challenge. To that point bridal brands like ready-to-wear brands are taking a cautious approach in creating their new collections. Where in the past, established bridal brands would take substantial risks, introducing new silhouettes and design aesthetics to consumers, this time around tried-and-true are the bridal catch words.

Although THEIA is following the example of many bridal designers and treading the re-entry waters lightly, that does not mean that the brand’s spring 2023 collection is a cautious exploration of what modern brides are looking for. This collection explores the juxtaposition between the angular and organic elements to create signature looks for today’s modern bride.

Inspired by the photography of Eva Grall whose work epitomizes texture, value and sensuality, Grall’s photography matches the cores values of THEIA’s design DNA. The simplicity of magnified petals and the soft tactile nature of Grall’s works are evident in the tucks, cowls and folds of our crepe and satin gowns. Easy slip dress silhouettes, plunging V-necks, jubilant floral beading, and cheeky asymmetry can be found within the collection.

Images courtesy of THEIA

Though this bridal collection only contained 15 looks, there were some wonderful standout garments. Standout looks include the wrap around tromp l’oeil cut out stretch crepe gown with long sleeves and parallel buttons at the back, stretch crepe gown with double side slit, peekaboo back and watteau train, and the floral fringe beaded mini slip dress.

William S. Gooch

In Earnest by Byron Lars Fall 2022

February 18, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

For his fall 2022 collection Byron Lars only produced sixteen looks which some would qualify as a capsule collection, not an entire fall/winter collection. Still, Lars has created in just 16 looks, a collection that is so varied and inclusive that most of the bases are covered for what women would want in their wardrobe for fall 2022.

This is a season of reflection for Byron Lars. Always enchanted by the feminine silhouettes of the turn of the 20^th century, in this fall collection Lars reinvented some of those early 20^th century silhouettes and brought back some of the looks from his inaugural 1991 collection.

“As I approached the season, it somehow felt completely modern to exercise the principles of my first [fall] collection from the [1990’s],” says Byron Lars. “When I began, I was obsessed with reimagining American classics and was all but entirely disinterested with seasonality in the traditional sense which, even then, was starting to feel outmoded.”

Imagine how the original Gibson Girl would look updated to 2022. Gone is the corseted waist and bustle, now replaced with well-constructed jackets slightly cinched at the waist with padded shoulders. Always an advocate of layering, in this fall 2022 collection, Lars used layering to match the mood of his consumer at every jointure of her day. Whether piled on or added on for effect, Lars’ women understands that the versatility needed throughout her day can be accomplished with layering.

Lars is also expert at combining fabrications and patterns. Where some designers’ pairing of disparate patterns and fabrications can be expressed as too many disjointed ideas, for Lars these combinations only accentuate and express his consumer’s peripatetic style choices.

Images courtesy of In Earnest by Byron Lars

Fabrications include guipure lace, cotton shirting, embroidered net, sequins, vegan leather, ponte flannel, embroidered herringbone, and heavily textured stretch jacquards. Standouts looks in this small collection, and there were several, include the oversized gingham man shirt paired with wide-leg denim jumpsuit, denim collegiate jacket with padded shoulders paired with legged denim pants, black lace midi dress with patterned embellishments, and oversized gingham man shirt paired with wide-leg denim jumpsuit, denim collegiate jacket with padded shoulders paired with legged denim pants, black lace midi dress with patterned embellishments,

—William S. Gooch

Kevan Hall Fall 2022

February 17, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspiration is the fertile ground that forms the creative palette for the fashion designer. Whether that inspiration comes from film, art, dance, travel, food or a sundry of perspectives and insights, if the inspiration is good and serves the signature DNA of the brand well, consumers can expect a well-designed collection.

For fall 2022 Kevan Hall was inspired by the traveling routes between Mali, Morocco and the legendary Tarshish. Travelers and merchants on that historic route would exchange wares, folklore, and handcrafted textiles.

Hall employs the handcrafted textiles that would have been traded along this African trade route to produce a fall 2022 collection that plays heavily on North African fabrics married with gold and bronze metallics. And while this collection is a historical dispensation on fabrications from the Motherland, Hall does not leave this collection there. Hall ingeniously positions this collection in a modern conversation based on silhouettes that any consumer can relate to. In fact, several of the garments in this collection could enter a wardrobe as timeless pieces that could be resurrected for several seasons.

Speaking of silhouettes and design elements, Kevan Hall uses the continuing trend of cutouts almost better than any other fashion designer currently presenting collections. For Hall, cutouts are not just about showing flashes of skin. Cutouts for Hall are about accentuating a women’s curves, her sensuality, and her daring spirit. Never exploiting or sensationalizing a women’s sexiness, just presenting feminine sensuality as a given, bringing it to the fore, and making it more than a titillating moment.

Though we have seen all the silhouettes in this collection before, Hall expertly injected a new spirit and a modernity into the familiar feminine silhouettes of cutouts, fishtail cocktail dresses, one-shoulder dresses, and the classic suit. By incorporating rich jacquards, matelassé, and brocades combined with modern touches, Hall hinted at the orientalism of historic trade routes of Africa and the Middle East without bogging the collection down with cultural references.

Images courtesy of Evan Hall/VERY New York PR

There is something in this collection that would appeal to women at every jointure of their day, and it’s about time that consumers have access to garments that give them a reason to go out and show off their style. And this collection is all about showing off individual style.

Standout looks in this collection include the onyx and pewter double face jersey spine back dress with hanky hemline, the amethyst/copper matelassé side ruffle dance dress, the zebra metallic jacquard asymmetric tuxedo jacket with bootleg pant, and the Tarshish metallic jacquard jacket with passementerie palazzo pant. Look out, fall 2022 is going to be a season of style and panache!!

—William S. Gooch

Sergio Hudson Spring 2022

February 15, 2022 by admin 2 Comments

Sergio Hudson is riding high on a wave of success and popularity. With season after season of rave reviews, Hudson has done it again. For his latest New York Fashion Week (NYFW) collection, the South Carolina-native, turned Los Angeles resident, turns his models into time and space travelers, but not in the traditional sense. This season’s inspiration was a high-fashion African safari, with a vibrant color palette reminiscent of the Ndebele people of South Africa. However, the silhouettes evoke the image of 90’s fashion girls Dionne Davenport and Cher Horowitz from the movie “Clueless,” Whitley Gilbert from the sitcom “A Different World” and Lisa Turtle from “Saved by the Bell.” By his own admission, Hudson found it fun, outlandish, and cheeky to imagine women on safari in mini-skirts and heels, but he made is dream practical by creating pieces that a woman can really wear in her normal life.

Keep in mind that this is a spring 2022 collection, not a fall collection. Sergio Hudson is one of the few NYFW designers to ditch the traditional six-month, runway-to-retail timeframe in favor of a see now/buy now business model. The colors are bold, and the cuts are strong, all leading to a prediction of another fan-favorite collection. Hudson presented his traditional impeccable tailoring and fitted dresses, but also explored new silhouettes and fabrications, including safari jackets, mini skirt suits, knitwear, and biased-cut evening wear made with chiffon and silk charmeuse in pastel shades of mint green, sky blue, and lavender.

In addition to his own creations, Hudson added a few collaborations to the mix. The runway show featured a capsule shoe collection in collaboration with Malone Souliers. The limited-edition capsule features statement heels in rich textures and brings together Malone Souliers’ unconventional approach to the traditional cordwainer’s craft with Sergio Hudson’s glamorous take on fashion. The result was footwear to match each in two styles: the Jojo and the Lilli offered in Raffia, Nappa leather, and Elaphe. Hudson also collaborated with Swarovski for the finale dress which featured an abstract leopard print.

If all of that was not enough, Hudson added a few legendary models to the line-up. Beverly Johnson, Veronica Webb, and Gisele Zelauy all graced the runway in Hudson’s latest show. They were in addition to Maria Borgas who opened the show in a body-hugging black spaghetti-strap dress underneath a leopard-print robe coat.

Images courtesy of Dan Lecca

This, the eighth collection from Sergio Hudson, offers more options in metallic shades, solid blacks, and color-band prints. There is something for any woman who wants to live, or relive, her days as an it-girl. To see more of this spring collection, or to pre-order a look for yourself, head over to www.sergiohudson.com.

—Carl Ayers

Asia Fashion Collection Fall 2022

February 15, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

The Asia Fashion Collection is a project produced and sponsored by VANTAN and PARCO CO., LTD to provide a platform for fresh and emerging talent in the fashion industry throughout Asia. Designers compete for a chance to debut their collections during New Yor Fashion Week (NYFW), judged by prominent industry experts like Kaname Murakami, the editor in chief of WWD Japan, and Takanobu Kono, Official Evangelist of Shopify Japan. This season, six designers debuted their collections from across Asia to be presented on screens in New York’s Spring Studios. The project, with its focus on discovering and nurturing new talent, comes with major cultural implications in terms of Asian fashion and youth subculture, making it a significant fashion show since all perspectives are fresh with each designer having their finger on the pulse of fashion.

The first collection, Yuuna Ichikawa by Yuuna Ichikawa from Japan, is inspired by dance, youth, music, and movement. ‘Youth in Heart’ is embedded in the sheer fabric across model’s chests while the collection’s muses are Loie Fuller, pioneer of modern dance, and Patti Smith, punk rock icon. The collection, in neutral shades of gray, white, and black, features billowing construction, untamed and carefree design in sharp, wide shoulders and overextended leather sleeves and strings that take up space like an arm that extends across a stage in a swirling dance. Movement and youth are also concepts that danced across several other collections.

WooLeeX by Yu Nung (Jerry) Hsieh and Ming Jo (Cynthia) Hsieh from Taiwan, for example, features custom fabrics in patterns of mountains, forests, and plum blossoms printed on 3D jacquard. The jacquard pattern is meant to symbolize the emotional reactions of music listeners from deep melody to joyful dancing. The fabrics are works of art with intricate detailing and vivid imagery with oversized tailoring allowing for unrestrained movement.

COCOTONO by Kotono Fukazawa from Japan, also uses movement as a backdrop for the collection to conceptualize how distorted movement evokes a feeling. The first menswear piece is a plaid jacket with distorted fabric that drips like the ice cream in the model’s grip styled with youthful short pants and long socks. The collection, like Yuuna Ichikawa, plays on depictions of youth, but in a more literal manner with a blue oversized coat patterned with a felt fence and fluffy sheep while the model holds a pillow. The collection, like many of the other collections, is meant to be carefree and even comedic to bring upon an emotional response.

Like COCOTONO, SUNG JU by Sung Ju Lee of South Korea, also carries the comfort of a bed to the runway in an emotion-driven presentation inspired by the designer’s personal experience being teased for his name’s association with a Korean yellow melon. The collection swells in vibrant shades of pink and yellow across puffer coats, pillowing constructions, and fluffy slippers sliding over the runway. The pieces can be categorized as “dopamine dressing” meant to boost mood, which is expected to increase over 2022.

“Dopamine dressing” is even more evident in DOKKA Vivid by Nodoka Sugauchi and Akiho Ka of Japan with their mixing of a variety of floral prints and bright colors as models hold brilliant hued Japanese hanging lanterns. The pieces resplendent with vitality, are also sustainable using upcycled fabrics, like on their kimono mask. DOKKA Vivid also reinterprets classic Asian designs like the kimono as two models walk together wearing floral print coats with billowing reflective fabric in the back.

Images courtesy of New York Tokyo LLC

Glenda Garcia by Glenda Garcia, who is Indonesian and based in New York, also reinterprets classic designs through deconstruction to provide a fresh perspective. Her pieces are designed for the modern working woman and deconstruct traditional workwear pieces to form a collection featuring oversized garments, asymmetrical construction, and leather fabrications styled with rainboots.

For the fall 2022 season, the showcase reflects themes of youth, movement, and rebellion showing a lack of restraint through billowing designs and oversized silhouettes. The presentation depicts a focus on sentimental fashion that evokes strong feelings and memories. All collections are current and modern, so it is appropriate that the AFC also created a fall 2022 Metaverse Project to debut artwork inspired by each brand in Japan’s NFT marketplace “nanakusa.” To view the NFT artwork, visit nanakusa.io!

—Tessa Swantek