Front Row — Page 18

Cynthia Rowley Spring 2023

September 14, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

When one thinks of a New York City-based fashion designer whose collections reflect that you New York City woman who is looking for style, elegance and comfort Cynthia Rowley immediately comes to mind. As a designer who has presenting at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) for a few decades, Rowley knows her consumer very well and understands how to keep her happy and well dressed.

Using New York City’s Battery Park and the Statue of Liberty has a backdrop, Rowley presented the color that was infused with lots of bold color, texture, metallics and silhouettes from the 1990s. “I think the things that are consistent with us is the pretty-meets-sporty and how these two really disparate ideas coexist, and everything that happens in between is really what I think makes us who we are as a brand,” explained Rowley.

“Color is really important to me and the joy that color can bring, so I like experimenting with that [too],” continued Rowley. “I feel like first coming out of the pandemic, color was really important. And then the next evolution of that is all that color, and then in metallic too.”

Many of the looks in this spring 2023 collection are slight carryovers from Rowley’s fall 2022 collection. This inclusion was must evident in the carryover of Rowley’s use of bodysuits and very sheer, diaphanous elements.

Like many designers this season Rowley looked back to the 1990s for inspiration. Rowley brought back the cargo pant aesthetic in this collection, but in true Rowley done in a style that fits her brand DNA and that make her customer very happy. We are talking cargo pant pockets on maxi canvas skirts and pants.

Rowley also brought back the silver metallic trend; however, in this outing it metallics that a woman can wear at every jointure of her day, and not just for eveningwear or nighttime ventures. And for those Rowley devotees there is lots of bold color to go around, as well as sexy garments for those daring enough to show off that va va voom.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

As we continue to move out of the COVID-19 pandemic. Cynthia Rowley is poised and primed to keep her consumer ready for this new adventure into style and elegance. And this spring 2023 collections screams loudly that we are back!!

William S. Gooch

Frederick Anderson Spring 2023

September 13, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Frederick Anderson has always been associated with dressing the Upper Eastside female set. Anderson’s entrée into that sacrosanct set started when he was associated with former business partner Douglas Hannant, whose fashion brand is now defunct. Hannant even had a store in the Plaza Hotel that catered to that Upper Eastside woman who wanted garments that she could wear at her jointure of her day.

Since Anderson struck out on his own, he has continued to attempt to satisfy the fashion palette of that Upper Eastside fashionista. And he has some success with that kind of customer. However, times that are a changing. And that Upper Eastside customer is no longer the woman that Anderson once appealed to.

That said, Anderson still focuses his fashion collections on that Upper Eastside woman, yet with a more modern sensibility. And his spring 2023 collection was successful in that respect, well almost.

Do anyone that has experienced Anderson’s collection it is apparent that he is a master at knitwear. And his knitwear work is one of the elements of this collection that stands out the most because Anderson marries his knitwear with a modern sensibility and daring not seen from most knitwear designers. There is a definite in-your-face-sexiness with Anderson’s knitwear which elevated this element beyond the ladies who lunch set.

Anderson silky lounge and evening wear were the definite hits of this collection. Though several of those garments conjured up images of similar Halston collections from the 1970s, Anderson did manage to incorporate some of his own unique touches.

Many of the free-flowing garments masterfully enveloped the body, showing off curves and dipping to regions reserved for only the invited. Still, there were selections in this collection that would appeal to a more conservative consumer.

Anderson opened his show with Black Lives Matter and Gay Rights iconography and images. Bravo for those strong political statements. Still, how those political statements fit into this collection was unclear. This collection was more about how an updated Upper Eastside woman currently lives her life. And those political stances, though a reflection of Anderson’s political affiliations, don’t necessarily reflect his consumer.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Anderson’s evolution as a fashion designer has come to the fore in this spring 2023 collection. And there is an expectation that he will continue to grow and master his craft.

—William S. Gooch

IN EARNEST by Bryon Lars Spring 2023

September 12, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

A few years back, Byron Lars changed the name of his eponymous brand to IN EARNEST by Byron Lars. The reasons for this name change are varied and multilayered; however, for those of us who love Byron Lars and his vision of his ever-evolving consumer the reason for the name change is obvious. Byron Lars is earnestly and honestly the real deal. And this spring 2023 collection confirms that fact.

Season after season, Lars keeps his collections, fresh, current and beyond fashion trends. Inspired by 1940s Harlem, Byron Lars found an ingenious way infuse a Harlem 1940s fashion aesthetic into his spring 2023 collection. “At the end of the day, it’s about evoking the joy of dressing up exemplified in Harlem of that period, since I think we are most definitely ready if not longing for that level of expressiveness again in the way we present ourselves with clothes,” says Bryon Lars.

Interestingly Lars’ atelier is based in Harlem and this outing was the first time Lars has presented his collection in New York City since renaming his brand in 2020. “With IN EARNEST, we need to look at things differently, through a different lens than what we’ve done in the past. It is reflected in the design, in the business, and in how we want to present our concepts to the public. We are so inspired by the multi-disciplinary art forms and wanted to have fashion represented among artists of all kinds,” says IN EARNEST by Byron Lars business partner Sheila Gray.

Though Lars consistently seeks to keep his collections fresh, updated, and culturally relevant what does stay true to the brand’s fashion DNA is Lars’ remolding on traditional silhouettes and unexpected combinations of fabrications, textures, colors, and layered looks. Only a designer of Lars’ design acumen can continually evolve the Gibson Girl silhouette, keeping this traditional silhouette relevant and fashion forward.

As expected from the king of mash-ups, there were many other unexpected looks from the cargo culottes and lace motorcycle jacket to a red striped bustier top with floral harem pants. The designer also played with contrasting hard and soft elements, showcasing Black vegan leather ensembles as well as cocktail dresses of chiffon, lace, and florals. One defining element of this season’s collection is the dramatic display of the feminine form with an hourglass shirtdress, bustier detailing, puff sleeves, and peplums.

For pattern, the collection relied on a full mix of bold florals, bizarre prints, abstracted sequins, and stripes. Transparency was also a key element with lots of sheer paneling and a fully sheer qipao-style dress. The overall mood was a romantic nod to the styles of the 1940’s when American fashion was both traditionally feminine and utilitarian inspired.

What also stood out in this collection was Lars’ selection of the right models for the correct garment. From standard-sized models to plus-sized models to seasoned models, every model was perfectly matched to the right garment. A special nod goes out to supermodel Coco Mitchell who strutted down the runway in a silver, black and white sequined harem jumpsuit. Only a model of Mitchell’s caliber can show this look off in a way that makes every woman want to have this garment in her spring wardrobe.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Standout looks, and there were many, include the white oxford boob button-down shirt w/palazzo jean, black vegan leather puff-sleeve sheath, black and white oxford stripe hourglass shirtdress, camouflage guipure lace jacket with sequined tap short, floral lace garden party dress, and floral sequined fit and flair dress.

William S. Gooch

Naeem Khan Bridal Spring 2023

April 9, 2022 by admin 1 Comment

At end of his spring 2023 bridal runway presentation, Naeem Khan turned to the audience, with fist in the air, proclaimed, “we are back.” As the audience rose to their feet in praise of Khan’s spring 2023 bridal collection, Khan’s collection not only proved that Khan was definitely back, but also that Khan is continuing to thrive.

For his spring 2023 bridal collection, Khan was inspired by beautiful gardens from around the world. Imagine the beautiful gardens of Tuileries, New York City’s Botanical gardens, the Dubai Miracle Garden, Singapore Botanic Gardens, and France’s Villandry Gardens. All this floral wonder in front and center in Khan’s spring 2023 bridal collection and reflected in Khan’s use of intricate beading, floral cutouts, embroideries, and laces. To highlight this inspiration, Khan gives the gowns in this collection names that reflect specific global gardens.

As with many of his collections, bridal and ready-to-wear, Khan consistently injects a 1970s design aesthetic into almost every bridal gown. And Khan has created a collection that dresses his bride at every jointure of her nuptial ceremony from the bridal rehearsal party to the wedding to the reception.

This collection also includes a variety of bridal silhouettes from floral column gowns to fit-and-flare gowns to princess gowns to cocktail dresses and floral pantsuits. And though in past collections Khan’s bridal gowns seem to focus more pointedly on a younger bridal consumer who is very svelte and fit, with this collection Khan expands his demographic to include a wide swarth of bridal customers.

Khan did not recreate the bridal wheel, so to speak, with this collection—something he has done in previous collection. With this collection, Khan plays it a little say with silhouettes and design aesthetics that most consumers can relate to.

That said, Khan’s more standard approach this time around did not diminish the beauty of this collection. Though there were a few looks that seem to be repurposed from previous bridal collections.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in this collection—and there were many—include Oahu beaded cocktail dress, Medellin scallop beaded cocktail dress, Greenport fit-to-flare embroidered gown, and Kew embroidered drape sleeve gown. Naeem Khan, the bridal industry is so pleased that you are back. Bravo!!

—William S. Gooch

Ines di Santo Bridal Spring 2023

April 8, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

If you have ever been to an Ines di Santo bridal show, you know that she never does anything small. From having her bridal show at Jazz at Lincoln Center with a full orchestra to producing a bridal show with set of real trees and foliage for the models to saunter around, di Santo really knows how to enchant and entice bridal industry professionals and consumers.

A bridal extravaganza was not on the menu for di Santo’s spring 2023 bridal collection. This presentation was about re-establishing di Santo in the New York bridal market and demonstrating that di Santo has not lost any of her shine and sparkle.

“Last season I shared my love of family and our Italian roots. In this new season, I drew inspiration from my formative years and the integral cities from around the world that have nurtured my growth as a designer. Join me as I look to my childhood in Buenos Aires, reflect on my time studying couture in Paris, and see how I discovered opulence in Dubai. This season’s collections are a glimpse into my fantasy world from my explorative years and discover how my travels led me to collect the skills I have spent my career trying to perfect,” detailed Ines di Santo.

This spring 2023 bridal collection was a reflection on what di Santo does best, create bridal gowns that combine elements of couture with a modern sensibility. And that modern sensibility includes bridal silhouettes for what many modern consumers are in the market for.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

True to form there were many traditional bridal silhouettes in this spring 2023 collections. There was an array of trumpet gowns, fit-to-flare gowns, princess gowns and mermaid gowns. Still, there were a good amount of cocktail dresses and column gowns with interesting embellishments—feathers, bangle beads, floral cutouts, and fringe. And realizing that the modern bride is interesting is something other than a white gown, Ines di Santo injects lots of pastel colors into this spring 2023 collection.

From high-low gowns to cocktail dresses to princess gowns there is something in this collection for almost every bride. And Ines di Santo has all the goods!!

—William S. Gooch

Sachin & Babi Bridal Spring 2023

April 8, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Despite the tragedy of the COVID-19 pandemic, there are some good things that have come out of this health crisis. The health pandemic has caused many of us to reflect on what is important. And that sense of what matters has taken root in the bridal industry. Pre-COVID-19 pandemic, most brides aspired to have large weddings with all the trapping. That is no longer the case for many brides. In a nutshell, priorities have shifted.

This shift in priorities is most evident in Sachin & Babi’s spring 2023 bridal collection. Their consumer yearns for something simpler, more organic, something that reflects their newfound sense of calm and tranquility.

“Our inspiration for this collection is really our muse, our gal. We looked at today’s modern woman, her sensibilities, her mindset. Our inspiration is never linear because we are inspired by so many things, but the focus of this collection was appealing to our muse, a woman who is enjoying life and has a post-pandemic focus,” explained Babi Ahluwalia.

There is something in this spring 2023 collection for almost every bride, whatever the age, cultural or social demographic. There are no big, puffy ballgowns, but that was never Sachin & Babi’s design aesthetic. What is front and center in this collection, is the husband-and-wife design duo’s attention to detail, minimalist sensibilities and focus on strong, clean lines with just a bit of modern sensuality thrown in for good measure.

This bridal collection also is designed with an understanding that many bridal consumers are choosing to have their weddings outside of a traditional chapel setting. So, whether the bride is getting married in a garden, on the beach, at City Hall or a mountainside, Sachin & Babi have the perfect bridal ensemble for the occasion and the location.

Additionally, Sachin & Babi incorporated something that few bridal collections include, garments for the female members of the wedding party. There were wonderful additions of bridesmaids’ dresses and mother-of-the-bride gowns.

“[These additions] came organically, I promise you, because on social media we would get DMs from mums who wanted something for themselves but were not finding much in the market. So, by putting our ear to the ground, we filled the needs of our consumers. Many of the mothers of the brides are in their early fifties and sixties and they are paying for the wedding. They want to shine, too,” revealed Babi Ahluwalia.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection include, but were not limited to, the crepe tee shirt with crystal and pearl torsade crepe wide-legged pants, allover floral embellished lace halter with pearls and wide-legged crepe pant, stretch crepe jumpsuit with crystal embellishment and beaded drop earrings and tailored blazer with oversized bow sash, column dress with crystal embellished bon on attached cape.

William S. Gooch

Mark Ingram Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by vintage bridal collections, the recent Dior exhibit and HBO’s “Gilded Age,” Mark Ingram infused his collection with a combination of classic silhouettes and modern points of view all seen through the lens of what modern brides want to wear. What stands out most in this bridal collection is Ingram’s attention to detail and his construction stills, which he honed at the iconic fashion houses of Oscar de la Renta and Caroline Herrera.

“My inspiration was the process of couture and going to Dior show at the Brooklyn Museum, in Paris and later in Brooklyn. It was a very personal showing because you get the opportunity to be up close and personal view of the details that Christian Dior used in couture collections. I hope the couture process came through in what I executed this season,” explains Ingram.

And yes, Mark, the couture process did come through. And true to the art of couture, Mark Ingram paid close attention to the techniques necessary to make couture the focus of this collection.

Though this collection was a fashion compendium on couture techniques and classic silhouettes, Ingram did ingeniously inject some modern elements into this bridal collection. There were several garments that contained detachable trains and bows, and one garment had a skirt that could be transformed from a typical skirt with small train to a high-low tea dress.

There were several bridal gowns that were accompanied by stunning bolero jackets. Ingram wisely included these bolero jackets to accompany gowns that were strapless in case spring weather is on the chilly side. There were also a couple of garments that had deceptively hidden openings where brides can show off their jewel-embellished shoes in Instagram photos.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

One of other element that should be mentioned is Ingram using his bridal showroom appointment to educate industry professionals about his choices in fabric, construction, and various couture techniques. This was a very rare treat and harkens back to the golden age of couture when fashion designers interacted in a very personal way with fashion industry professionals. Very smart addition Mark Ingram, keep up the good work!!

William S. Gooch

Lihi Hod Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Lihi Hod founded her eponymous bridal house in 2010 built upon the precious jewels of her education with Shenkar, the leading fashion design school in Israel and her couture work with John Galliano of Dior Paris. Her background is practically written in delicate pearls on each of her bridal pieces as every creation is meticulously detailed and fits like an ivory silk glove. According to Hod, her pieces “combine couture-quality techniques with classic silhouettes and luxurious textures, focusing not only on the bride’s look but also on her comfort, confidence and ease.” This quality of an airy ease blossoms in her latest couture spring 2023 “Mystic Flower” collection inspired by her experience observing garden flowers in bloom.

The collection has an ethereal quality, and invokes a weightless feel, like thin ivory petals floating in the wind’s breath. Like the flowers Hod observed, her brides look naturally graceful, as she says “The gowns are created to enhance the bride with graceful beauty and strength, much like the flower petals as they begin to open to a full bloom. The collection is made of fabrics that were carefully chosen for their natural beauty, combined with meticulous detailing and flawless craftsmanship: silk organza, Mikado and crepe, adorned with hand-embroidery made especially for Lihi Hod.” This sense of effortless natural beauty is enhanced by the collection’s minimal makeup and hair styling. A bride in a swept back ponytail and soft eye makeup rests her silk gown across linen cushions of blue and white floral. To Lihi Hod’s bride, elegance is easy, and her wedding day is where her natural beauty shines.

The varying classic silhouettes in the collection seem to depict the phases of a flower in bloom. Lihi Hod says the collection defines, “a powerful moment that becomes utterly uplifting—the thing that is born, rolling out, taking shape from one organism to a new more beautiful one.” Some gowns are fitted to the body like a flower whose petals have yet to open; Both the “Terra” and “Jasmine” gowns, for example, are draped around the bodice like a flower’s petals tightly held together before bloom. Some gowns, like the “Nadia” and “Lilu,” feature delicately puffed sleeves like the budding top of a rose. In other gowns, like the “Noa,” the silk opens in a full bloom display of beaded floral appliques on a sweetheart neckline and puffed skirt like outstretched petals.

Images courtesy of Lihi Hod

In bridal fashion, the details are some of the most important elements. Lihi Hod says in the collection there is “the element of surprise as the beauty hidden beneath is slowly revealed.” In a touch of 1920s inspired details, the “Ella” is romantically peppered with feathered floral appliques and the “Terra” sheer panels hold fine pearls. The “Nova” corsetry is beaded in shapes of the leaves on a vine. White rounded buttons grace the spine of the bride in the “Camille” dress while a sheer puff sleeved cape billows softly over the shoulders of the bride in another look. Finally, of course, a bride is not a bride without her diamond ring which holds the silk glove covered ring finger of Lihi Hod’s bride. To view the full collection, visit lihihod.com!

—Tessa Swantek

INBAR FREIMAN Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Deep into Union Square Market and away from the torrential downpour that had placed itself over Manhattan, New York International Bridal Fashion Week was in full swing with many designers showing to buyers and select media under one roof. There was a calm excitement throughout the venue, with most people mentioning how good it felt to be back around colleagues to see clothes in person.

At INBAR FREIMAN’s spring 2023 collection, something special was taking place for her spring 2023 collection. Among an assortment of gowns in ivory adorned in Solstiss lace and delicate beading, Freiman perfectly married art and fashion, infusing her unique design language to create an enduring aesthetic. The dresses were effortlessly chic and amazingly calm in their presentation, and they moved with an air of lightness across the room without being stiff and overdone with piles of fabric.

Her spring 2023 collection, entitled “Fairy Dreams,” is for the confident bohemian woman who is relaxed in her demeanor and believes that comfort and luxury should co-exist together. The gowns are lifestyle-driven, punctuated by their ability to move in unison with the bride. “Fairy Dreams” can be best described as a journey for the eyes to feast on a palette of sumptuously natural fabrics in an assortment of soft silks, delicate lace, and layered chiffon.

The inspiration behind “Fairy Dreams” was birthed from dreaming about a brighter future after the worldwide circumstances of the last two years. This idea, a focusing point, also has roots in the Hebrew language. The phrase Atit Varod, or “pink/bright future” was essential to the creative process and rooted the collection in forward motion toward something new.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

In many ways, Freiman captured the essence of the moment. Not just in her ideas about the future but also in how she thinks about the garment’s construction. Each gown has an ease of movement that is symbolic of moving towards a bright new future. And isn’t that what every new bride is hoping for?

—Kristopher Hoyle

Sophie et Voila Bridal Spring 2023

April 7, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Many words and feelings rush to mind when thinking of Sophie et Voila’s spring 2023 collection. Of those many descriptive thoughts and ideas, the collection embodies a sense of modern refinement understated without complicated adornments. The collection, entitled Cristóbal, an ode to Spanish designer and couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga focuses on simple, sleek lines that conform elegantly to the shape and curve of a woman’s body.

In many ways, the collection exemplifies the unparalleled mastery commanded by Balenciaga, refining garments to their simplest and purest forms. No small feat for any designer, no matter how talented, but Sofia Arribas masters balancing sophistication with simple silhouettes and uncompromising standards, solidifying the DNA of the Sophie et Voila brand.

Originally an architect (Sofia Arribas) with Philippe Starck, you get a sense of the amount of thought and attention to detail woven into the creation of each dress. For example, the way a puffed organza sleeve is constructed, subtly changing shape at the slightest movement, or how the designer doubles the fabric of each dress so that the second layer serves as a slip, reducing the appearance of lines and creating a more form-fitting garment that moves with the bride.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Each piece from the collection is a marvel that stands on its own and is a testament to Arribas’ design language that is uniquely her own in a world. As Sophia Arribas explains, “[in a world where being true to oneself is a luxury that very few can afford.”

—Kristopher Johnson-Hoyle