Kelly Faetanini Bridal Fall 2023

A tenth anniversary is a significant marker at any time in one’s life. For bridal designer Kelly Faetanini, the tenth anniversary of her namesake bridal brand represents a decade of beautiful bridal gowns that appeals to that bridal consumer who is attracted to Faetanini’s interpretation of femininity, glamour, and beauty.

This fall 2023 collection is no exception to Faetanini’s bridal aesthetic. Inspired by the character of Carrie Bradshaw from the iconic television seried “Sex and the City,” Faetanini created timeless classics that would appeal to wide range of bridal consumers.

“This season, I found inspiration in the character of Carrie Bradshaw and her fearless and timeless fashion choices. This collection continues to present our brides with options for exactly how styled, dramatic, and fashion-forward they want to be with detachable trains, oversized bows, and optional sleeves. I had a lot of fun working with draping techniques that create exaggerated accents that are playful and feminine. We also have some Carrie-worthy texture and color, including black, blush, and feathers. I am excited to share this collection with you as we commemorate a decade of bridal fashion from the Kelly Faetanini brand,’ detailed Faetanini.

This tenth anniversary also marked the opening of Faetanini’s exquisite bridal boutique in the Soho district of New York City. The bridal boutique is nicely appointed with a comfortable, luxurious lounge appropriate for any bride and her friends and family.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this tenth anniversary collection—there were about 15 looks in this outing—included, but were not limited to, the Mikado strapless bow bodice fit-to-flare gown, one-shoulder Mikado ballgown with peplum cascading skirt, Mikado asymmetrical neckline fit-to-flare gown with detachable skirt, and satin crop top with black high-low ostrich feather skirt.

In this significant landmark year, Kelly Faetanini continues to prove that she has the goods, not only to satiate the ever-changing tastes of bridal consumers, but to keep her brand afloat for ten years. Hey Kelly, the sacrifices have paid off!!

—William S. Gooch

Inbar Freiman Bridal Fall 2023

When it comes to destination weddings, no bridal brand fulfills that kind of bridal gown better than Inbar Freiman. Founded in 2015, Inbar Freiman is a luxury bridal brand based in Kfar Rut, Israel. Inbar’s designs are an extension of her elegantly feminine aesthetic and reflect both simplicity and sophistication. Inspired by modern architecture and organic design, her gowns are made for the bride who values detail, quiet elegance, timeless silhouettes, and uncompromising quality, both in material and craft.

The fall 2023 collection reflects the soft and graceful qualities of the sea. The collection’s natural silk and chiffon fabrics are inspired by the ease of the ocean waves. As waves calmly crash upon the shore, the gowns drape seamlessly along the bride’s silhouette.

“The power of the current, the beauty of the unknown, and the movement of the soft breeze on the coastal shoreline harmonize together to create the Ivory Mist collection. Intricate details and neutral tones found upon seashells reflect the gentle subtleties handcrafted into the gowns. The elegant layers and unique lines that shape each shell are carefully cultivated in the sophistication of each gown’s design,” declares Inbar Frieman.

Standouts in this collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s Annabelle, a bikini strapped crop top with long silk skirt with deep slit, Eve, silk gown with deep decolletage with high slit, and Mika, lace gown with halter top and see-though lace embellished midriff. Like many brands last season and continuing this season, there were several looks with high slits. The high slits allow the brides to show off their embellished footwear.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

What is most obvious about the bridal gowns in this outing is the injection more sensuality and a modern sensibility into the collection which now sets Inbar Freiman’s bridal collection in a class unto itself about other destination bridal gowns. Bravo Inbar!!

William S. Gooch 

 

Badgley Mischka Bridal Fall 2023

In case you were not aware, many ready-to-wear fashion designers also create bridal collections. In fact, Vera Wang started her illustrious fashion career as a bridal designer. Add to Vera Wang, Naeem Khan, Monique Lhuillier, Carolina Herrera, Reem Acra, Dennis Basso, and many others, ready-to-wear designers want to expand into the 8-billion-dollar industry. And why wouldn’t they?

Badgley Mischka is one ready-to-wear brand that has done just that. For their fall 2023 collection, the fashion duo presented the collection as a part of a bridal breakfast at New York.

“We are using our favorite classic couture fabrication sumptuous satins, beautiful sheer chiffons, and georgettes, luxurious Mikado, gossamer laces, and crisp organzas. These dressmaker fabrics are used to create gowns of elegance and presence, crafted with modern constructions and techniques that result in gowns that look like a dream and feel like a whisper,” explained James Badgley.

“Our brides are more individual than ever, and that is the major inspiration for the collection. She wants to make a personal statement, and the Collection offers her many unique ways to create her memory—all with the classic BADGLEY MISCHKA style and elegance,” he continues.

There was a lot in this collection that many brides would love. Let’s start with the obvious. Like their ready-to-wear collection, there is elegance, glamour, and beautifully well-constructed bridal selections. And for that bride that is looking for the same thing that that Badgley Mischka bring to their ready-to-wear collections, the same can be expected for the bridal collection.

Our style harks back to the glamorous Hollywood of the Forties,” says Mischka. “The Badgley Mischka signature style I simple, streamlined and thoroughly elegant.”

“One zip and you’re glamorous,” says Badgley. “We like to keep things effortless. It’s fabulous if you can spend hours getting ready, but a woman should also be able to bring a dress to work and change there for an evening out.”

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Standout looks in this collection include the Alaina gown with Anakara cape, the Angelika gown with floral cutout embellishments, and Astrid fit-and-flair gown with large pale blue bow.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Mark Ingram Bridal Fall 2023

The bridal market is an extremely challenging market, particularly in the US. Yearly, new bridal brands flood the US market, attempting to get their share of an ever-growing market and brides’ ever-changing palette for the next best thing. Still, there is room in this evolving market for those seasoned designers who always have the finger on the pulse of what works. Mark Ingram is one such bridal brand.

Though Mark Ingram has made a name for himself as a bridal retailer, in recent years he is making his mark in the industry with his own eponymous bridal collection. In contrast to his contrast to his spring 2023 bridal collection that was inspired by the HBO series “Gilded Age,” Ingram returned to some tried-and-true classics inspired by his hometown New York City.

“My beautiful hometown, [New York City] was the main inspiration for this [fall] 2023 bridal collection. Such architectural treasures as The Guggenheim Museum, The Empire State, and Chrysler Buildings served as influences for my more tailored architectural styles. This is evident in the neckline draping, geometric paneling, and top stitched seaming incorporated in the classic styles. The more romantic and soft styles were inspired by iconic and beautiful NYC interiors such as the ceiling and molding details of the glorious Grand Central Station and the elaborate wood-carved pillars and finials of the Plaza’s famed Edwardian Room and Palm Court. The chic of Park Avenue, the vibe of Tribeca, the sassiness of Harlem, and the grit of the Lower East Side… I celebrate all of it! With this glorious city coming back to life after having been in a Covid sleep for more than two years, for me nothing was more fitting than to pay homage to the city I love the best!

Though there were only about 15 looks in the fall 2023 collection, there were several standouts. Ingram’s Broadway fit-and-flare gown with jeweled spaghetti straps, the silk Mikado fit-and-flare gown with silk shrug, the Chantilly lace mermaid gown with statement sleeves, and lace cocktail dress only represent an array of bridal attire that a variety of brides will purchase.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

And with each bridal collection, Mark Ingram pays close attention to detail with the best construction produced by an American bridal designer. With Mark Ingram’s bridal gowns, a bride will get great construction, as fashion-forward sensibility, and attention to detail, a real win-win. Who would want anything more?

William S. Gooch

Gita Omri Spring 2023

When it comes to diversity and inclusion, the fashion industry often lags behind other industries. Though the fashion industry has made a valiant effort including models of color on runways and fashion campaigns and top staff positions at major fashion publications do appear to be more diverse than in past decades, size inclusion seems to be the bottom of the inclusion totem pole.

Gita Omri seeks to change all of that. Omri knows all about the challenges of finding garments that are appealing to larger-sized women. Being a plus-size consumer herself, Omri has dealt with the challenges of shopping for her size, as well as the challenges of finding inclusion in the fashion industry as a plus-size designer.

For Omri designing for larger women is all about the fit. Instead of taking standard sized garments and just making those garments in a larger size, Omri specifically purchases textiles and creates garments with her plus-size customer in mind.

Omri describes her collection and clothing line as less about plus-size fashion and more about designing for women. This was quite evident in how the spring 2023 chow was presented. Omri chose to have a standard-size model and a large model walk side by side wearing the same idea.

Though this was a novel idea, it is something that should have occurred in fashion shows a long time ago. Most fashion shows that include larger or plus-size models will only have two or three looks on a larger model. Which means if you are a larger-sized consumer, it may be a challenge to image yourself in the garments modeled by standard-size model.

That mystery or challenge has been eliminated in Omri’s fashion shows. And for the most part this Omri’s approach to size inclusion worked. What was a downside in this outing was Omri’s penchant for sticking to very basic silhouettes.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Still, what this collection lacked in panache it made up for in fit and accessibility. And that is a significant accomplishment. And the addition of top model Precious Lee to the runway presentation was a boon for this brand.

If Gita Omri can inject more intricate design elements in her collections, there is no doubt that her brand will be one of the go-to brands for women of varying sizes.

William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Spring 2023

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) represents different things to different people. For some fashion industry professionals NYFW is the opportunity to see the collections for the upcoming season before the clothes appear online and in brick and mortars. For some industry professionals NYFW portends where the fashion industry in projecting via trends, color palettes, silhouettes, and inclusion and exclusion. For some folks NYFW is a variety of TikTok and Instagram moments; for others NYFW is a traveling party from one afterparty to the next. And lastly, for some fashion designers/brands NYFW is the platform to showcase a new direction or reinvention.

That said, in this post-pandemic era many fashion designers are looking for a new direction for their brand, as well as seeking new audiences. Vivienne Tam is one such designer.

Vivienne Tam has always been known for her distinctive use of bold floral prints and bold color. Every season Tam finds innovative ways to take traditional silhouettes and transform those tried-and-true silhouettes to an innovative distillation that reflects current trends with a fashion-forward sensibility. Her customer has consistently included that quirky downtown fashionista that wants to be the first to wear a trend or that marches to the beat of her own drum. Added that very special downtown young fashion hipster is Tam’s fondness among very hip Gen Xers.

At this outing Tam attempted to expand her consumer by incorporating metaverse and crypto aesthetics. “I wanted the creators of these NFTs—Cyperkongz, CryptoPunks, Awkward Astronauts, and Bored Ape Yacht Club characters—even those unfamiliar with NFTs, to be excited and to think, ‘Wow, they’re alive!’” Tam said in a press release. In other words, Tam wanted to “rewire the current fashion landscape.”

And that she did. Still, it was not the Vivienne Tam that many of us love and adore. This was a different Tam that might not sit well with her diehard fans.

Gone were the interesting twists on floral prints, bold colors, and traditional silhouettes. This new and yet to proven Tam really tried to go after the “floater generation.” A generation that cares more about comfort and ease of movement than elegance and style.

What was still in place is Tam’s penchant for good construction and whimsy. Was this collection a pseudo homage to Woodstock or the new fashion metaverse? It was hard to tell.

Though there were some very cool denim jackets in this collection, most of the looks were assemblage of throwaway separates. There was an early 70s-vibe, carnation bell-bottomed pantsuit that demonstrated Tam at her best.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Overall, this collection had very little to say and was somewhat a misstep for Tam. Particularly, the addition of the rail-thin male models with matted hair that looked one step away from a concentration camp or a detox clinic.

Stay with what works and expand upon that, Vivienne. Better luck next time.

—William S. Gooch

LaQuan Smith Spring 2023

As many fashion designers are attempting to bring sexy and glamour back in this post-COVID-19 season, LaQuan Smith is looking in a different direction. In fact, sexy never left Smith’s fashion collection, sensuality and sexiness has always been a focal point of the collection.

For his spring 2023 collection, LaQuan Smith looked to bring more movement and pliability to his always sexy point of view. In previous outings, Smith wrapped his woman in his in-your-face sensual projections. And as sexy as his collections were, Smith’s woman had to be very fit and fine without having a lot of comfort when donning Smith’s creation. Well, all that is thrown to the winds in Smith’s spring 2023 outing.

“My woman is in a space where she needs air right now, it’s all about movement and fluidity,” Smith explained in a vogue.com article. “It’s about the female form, about sensuality and femininity, that is what we’re here to celebrate today,” Smith continued.

While there are many looks in this collection that demand a very svelte frame, there were several looks in the collection that would appeal to curvy or larger women. Still, if you want your sexy back or you are looking to continue your ride on the va va voom train, this collection will satisfy every need to show off your femininity and outer vixen.

What also worked in this collection was Smith’s projection to the future as evidenced in garments that scream next, next, next, with just a sliver of now. Daring, out of this world and a smidge of “oh no, you didn’t,” but Smith did, and his diehard consumer is ready and ready for this collection.

Though this collection was about as far as a designer can get away with when it comes to provocatively baring the female body, it was not garish and low brow.  And the titillation value was not diminished by Smith’s infusion of comfort ease.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

There was also a sophisticated element to this collection that sometimes lacking in previous outings. This collection proves that LaQuan Smith is one of the standout designers of his generation and that he has grabbed the brass ring and knows what to do with it!!

—William S. Gooch

Boohoo by Kourtney Kardashian Spring 2023

Fashion collections by celebrities don’t provide the quicken heartbeats and excitement they one produced. No one can forget Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B collections—which mixed streetwear with fashionista bling. Nicole Ritchie’s House of Harlow collections were a must-see, as well as Love S by Serena Williams. And former Spice Girls’ Victoria Beckham’s eponymous collection still manage to quicken pulses.

Kourtney Kardashian has entered her fashion collection into that fray of celebrity-based fashion and beauty brands. And there though fashion wagging tongues that would scoff at this added venture to the Kardashian empire—I was one such critic—from the looks of Kourtney Kardashian Boohoo spring 2023 collection, there are some merits to this outing.

At closer examination, the Boohoo spring 2023 collection was a very smart collection. This collection has lots of street cred and will satisfy a lot of consumers that want casual, sexy clothes with an edge that fits a lot of different body types and doesn’t break the bank.

Kourtney Kardashian ingeniously put lots of different sized models—from standard size to curvy to plus-size to very pregnant—in this runway outing. With this diversity of size and ethnicity, consumers will have no trouble imaging themselves in these clothes.

Still, there was not a lot of design in this collection. In another decade, this collection would have been categorized as a stylists’ collection. (For those young viewers who don’t know what a stylists’ collection is, a stylist’s collection is a collection that a fashion stylist could have curated from a lot of well-known retail stores. Thus, eliminating the need for innovation and creation. The genius is in the mixing and matching.) And that is ultimately what this collection is.

The only substantive thing this collection had to say is that it was incredibly inclusion. But innovating and introducing originality was not a part of the conversation. Still, this collection will sell well for those who follow the Kardashian and want to sexy at every jointure of their day.

Images courtesy of shuttlestock.com

One cannot leave out the attendees at this runway show. Anna Wintour and Anne Hathaway sat side by side in the front row. And this was the biggest assemblage of New York City young fashionistas I have every seen. The audience was awash in Gucci, Valentino, Chanel, and other luxury brands. None of whom will probably wear Boohoo.

This show was, for the most part, an Instagram and TikTok moment. And for those social media aficionados, the clothes were less important than the scene.

—William S. Gooch

Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has been a challenge and difficult for all of us. But out of tragedy, a phoenix can rise.

That said, out of tragedies that Bibhu Mohapatra has suffered over the past two years—losing his brother to COVID—Mohapatra looked to points of activism and redefinition for his spring 2023 collection. Out of his realignment and inspiration a phoenix did rise out of the proverbial ashes. That rebirth being Mohapatra’s spring 2023 collection.

Inspired by the late German artist and activist Claude Cahun, who proposed the idea of a “third sex,” Mohapatra used Cahun’s experimental use of masks to alter his appearance in self-portraits to re-examine the Mohapatra woman’s perspectives and points of view at ever jointure of her day. “Instead of using masks in the literal sense, I have tried to create many renditions of the Bibhu woman,” Mohapatra said in a vogue.com article.

So, let’s examine who the Bibhu Mohapatra woman is. The Mohapatra is a woman who loves texture, embellishments, intricate design, and traditional silhouettes seen the lens of modernity.

Like many fashion designers this season, Mohapatra incorporated his version of the corset married with some of Mohapatra’s continued favorites—striped textiles, striped winged sleeves, black eveningwear, and monochromatic color palettes. New to Mohapatra’s aesthetic were his use of high/low looks and wide-legged pants with piping.

Standout looks in this collection was the brand’s Deauville-inspired, denim-inspired dress with denim corselet, wide-legged stiped pant with white lace floral top, floral black and white handkerchief, long skirt with black lace top, pale-blue poof cocktail dress with pale-blue train, and white and black floral print cocktail dress with long ribbed organza skirt overlay.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Now that Bibhu Mohapatra has a brick-and-mortar store, his fans and upcoming consumers will not have to wait for the big retailers to carry his collections. And that is a very good thing!!

—William S. Gooch

 

Kevan Hall Spring 2023

Have you ever wondered what makes a good fashion show? With the plethora of fashion shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) it is sometimes hard to tell what make a good, brand effective fashion show. That said, there is an art to producing a great fashion show.

Here are a few tips!! A good fashion show should contain looks that are now and next. (Shush, I got that from the great fashion editor icon Diana Vreeland.) No collection can really standout and triumph without good models. Good models can make even a bad collection look better. A good fashion show has excellent production quality—meaning that attendees are in the right sections and the guest lists includes industry professionals, influencers, the old guard as well as up-and-comers.  And lastly, a good fashion show/collection should speak to the brand’s core consumers. It is fine and dandy to attempt to expand your audience, but you cannot throw the baby out with the dishwater, so to speak.

Kevan Hall’s spring 2023 show/collection contained all these elements and more!! For inspiration for his spring 2023 collection, Kevan Hall looked to Todos Santos, Mexico and his travels there. This “Hotelito” collection expressed a feast of vibrant colors, textures, and clean architectural lines that define the décor of the hotel where Hall resided. The saturated palette of persimmon, fuchsia, yellow, azure, and violet all of which are just a stone’s throw away from the crystal-clear turquoise ocean, are the final ingredients in the fashionable feast of the collection.

In this outing, Hall dressed his customer at every jointure of her day.  And he dresses her brilliantly. “These are clothes that women can wear effortlessly for day … cotton embroidered dresses, neon brights, summer tweeds, graphic-printed georgettes are casual and chic,” says Kevan Hall. “There are also cocktail dresses and evening ensembles in textured jacquards, taffeta, silk organza, beaded laces and fringe that are at once sophisticated and sexy providing the perfect balance for the modern woman… the woman for whom I design.” 

Though there was a slight old-school atmosphere at this outing—models turned, posed, pivoted, and mildly interacted with the audience, the black fashion intelligentsia were front and center, and the attendees were divided up according to what they could bring to the bran. There were also some modern projections that worked well for the collection. Tradition silhouettes contained some innovative elements. The summer tweeds were extremely lightweight facilitating transitions from early spring to early summer. And like several designers this season Kevan Hall included a range of ages of the models, highlighted by the inclusion of supermodel icon Coco Mitchell, who really knows how to show off a garment.

In this collection, Kevan demonstrated that young consumers can be sophisticated and elegant and still be current and that more seasoned consumers can be frolicky and fashion-forward without sacrificing sophistication and elegance. Additionally, Hall launched his capsule handbag and belt collection in this collection. All created in Italy with the interlocked “KH” monogram logo that will be a signature of the collection going forward. The bags are made of some of the finest Italian leathers on the market, some with perforated detailing. The belts are reversible in vibrant color combinations like chartreuse/turquoise, persimmon/yellow, pink/coral, and black/white for a graphic, more classic statement.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Bravo Kevan Hall!! Keep up the good work and show the young bloods how it is done!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

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