Front Row — Page 17

The Blonds Fall 2023

February 15, 2023 by admin 1 Comment

The Blonds, oh The Blonds, what better show to come at the end of New York Fashion Week (NYFW). If one of the closing shows of NYFW should be a sellout and bombshell of a show, then no show fits that bill better than The Blonds. And The Blonds closed out NYFW in a bedazzled, bejeweled fashion.

Inspired by the sex kitten vixens of the 1960s and Hollywood movies that promoted and supported that kittenish aesthetic—think Ann Margaret, Tina Louise, Sharon Tate, and even Jane Fonda in “Barberella’’—this collection was an in-your-face tribute to 60s sex sirens. That said, gamine models with big bouffant hair and cinched in waist were at the top of the menu for this fall 2023 collection. And as with all of The Blonds’ shows, there was glitz and glamour galore.

“It’s all about celebration of color, sparkle, glamour. And this is sort of a tribute to Elizabeth Taylor, one of our style icons. And the idea of falling in and out of love,” explained David Blond. And though this Elizabeth Taylor homage—she did love her jewels—was more of the 60s bombshell path of Ann Margaret and Jill St. John there was a measure of restraint and reserve to this collection that has sometimes been missing from other fashion outings.

What was most noticeable about this fashion collection—other than the brand’s obsession with gemstones—was the construction of the garments, which was a major step up from the construction and design in some previous collections. No hot-glued, encrusted bustiers and headpieces on this fall 2023 runway; the garments appeared very well designed and constructed.

Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, a two-piece emerald-green velvet dress with big jewels on the bust and below the stomach on the bunched-up skirt. a mini purple Y2K-inspired sequin dress paired with knee-high Louboutin heels, a white cowl-hooded dress with an asymmetrical slit up the leg with a diamond-shaped jewel in the center, and a structured black mini-velvet dress lined with silver jewels and a purple jewel on the bust of the dress.

Images courtesy of Purple PR

Is New York City nightlife or any major city nightlife ready for The Blonds post-pandemic? Probably not, but they should be. So, get ready!!

—William S. Gooch

IN EARNEST by Byron Lars Fall 2023

February 15, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Though IN EARNEST by Byron Lars’ fall 2023 collection is a smaller collection compared to previous outings, it is no less of an important collection that continues to push the trajectory of the brand in the right direction. And the trajectory of the brand runs parallel to a reinvigorated women’s movement calling for equal pay, reproductive rights, and giving the modern women her fare due in society.

Inspired the power of the modern women, particularly the brand’s consumer base, Lars looked to heroic female icons for his fall 2023 collection. “My [fall] 2023 collection is all about valiant femininity with clothes that harken to a kind of heroism as I see it,” states Byron Lars. “While American women mobilize to defend their reproductive rights against draconian legislature, it’s no wonder I imagined clothes for them that would evoke images of an epic crusade the likes of which we are collectively on in this moment.”

Each piece of the IN EARNEST by Byron Lars fall 2023 collection is powerfully feminine with details that harken back to the days of medieval armor, but modernized in Lars’ deft hands to be ready for the modern-day runway (aka: wherever a modern woman walks). Like a faux chain mail cardigan, fortified with tiny filagree motifs, that has an alluringly unexpected transparency and doubles as an interesting dress. Each piece is so deeply inspired that one is not certain if they are looking at a couture piece from the latest runway show, or a piece that was just on display in a historic museum exhibit. The result is a collection that is layered with inspiration, layered with story, and layered with fashionable possibilities.

What stands out most vividly about this collection is Lars’ masterful ability to borrow silhouettes that well known and update those silhouettes for the modern woman, particularly his consumer. Medieval armor becomes much more than armor, but a compendium of a modern woman strength while remaining stylish and fashion forward. Additionally, Byron Lars is one of the few current American designers that has the ability to find the symbiosis between fashion, culture, and politics.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Lars never ceases to demonstrate his design craft and acumen. And we have come to expect his genius and brilliance every season!!

—William S. Gooch

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2023

February 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Bibhu Mohapatra’s runway shows are one of the go-to fashion shows during New York Fashion Week. And his fall 2023 is a testament why this is the case.

Mohapatra always has interesting choices of inspiration—from the Belle Epoque era to his current muse 1920s heiress and political activist Nancy Cunard—the deep thinker digs deep into intellectual and cultural/political movements for direction for his fashion collections. And this deep thinking makes for interesting and thought-provoking fashion collections.

“I have been looking to the life and works of someone who has been influencing me for a long time. Nancy Cunard: the poet, heiress, muse, and political activist, who played a pivotal role in the significant historical events that occurred during her lifetime. Artists, writers, social workers, photographers, musicians, they all found that unique flame in Nancy that made her a muse and a collaborator to all of them. Known for her avant-garde, eccentric and interesting sense of style, Cunard lived a fascinating life of love, passion, influence and eventually, self-destruction. For her courage and tireless fight against inequality and racial injustice, Nancy Cunard is always going to be my hero and I dedicate my Fall 2023 collection to her life,” detailed Mohapatra.

Mohapatra can be counted on for beautiful embellishments on his garments, as well as statement sleeves, asymmetrical cuts, and his surprising take on gown and cocktail dress silhouettes with surprises around every corner, so to speak. That said, this season there were a few less surprises, which is understandable as Mohapatra is striving to expand his retail audiences. (Bibhu Mohapatra recently opened his namesake brick and mortar.)

This focus on more retail accessibility did make this outing a bit more disjointed with the collection almost resembling two separate collections. There were the almost couture-like garments with all the exquisite embellishments and surprises we have all come to expect from Mohapatra. Then there were the accessible garments that on their own were quite fine, but in this collection did not measure up against the other couture-like garments.

Images courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra

Still there was a lot to glory in this collection. Standout looks included Mohapatra’s mustard leather turtleneck with see-through black lace skirt, black bralette and black slacks with sequin embellished black tulle overlay, white tulle top with embellished yellow and black sequins paired with leather mustard long skirt, and off-the-shoulder embellished white lace gown with tulle overlay.

—William S. Gooch

INHERENT Fall 2023

February 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

The fall 2023 season marks the debut of INHERENT during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Though primarily a menswear brand, INHERENT creative director Taylor Draper did present some women’s look in this fall 2023 outing.

Inspired by classic English tailoring, New York streetwear, and Ivy League styles mixing them all in a manner that only Draper can, Draper created his own unique blend of timeless and modern fashion under the INHERENT moniker. This successful mix of styles and silhouettes demonstrated that the brand can hold its own in a New York sportswear market.

The collection was constructed from wool, cotton, and cashmere suitings, twills, plush corduroy, and shirtings, with a serious dose of butter soft knitwear that showed up draped in thought provoking ways to create a feeling of accessible avant-garde. His rich color palette of moss and forest green, chocolate brown, and midnight navy, with a few other colors added in for accents, creates a sense of warmth and comfort during the colder months. The range of styles and silhouettes ran the spectrum, from traditional blazers and trousers to contemporary streetwear inspired pieces, all crafted with the highest quality materials.

That said, if there was one drawback in this collection it would be the choice of male models. Though there were a few male models that were good choices for this New York debut, there were several models that seemed out of place and did not show the garments off well.

Choosing to go with models that were closely reflect the brand’s male consumer base is not a bad idea if those models understand how to present garments well. However, if they don’t—which was the case in this outing—the garments don’t have the ultimate impact. When it comes to the female models, the choices were excellent with the models—whether standard size or curvy—showing off the mostly masculine silhouettes well with sassy style and panache.

Images courtesy of VERY NY PR

In this debut collection, Draper aptly demonstrates that classy staples can be stylish and fashion-forward. Bravo INHERENT!!

—William S. Gooch

KOLTSON Fall 2023

February 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

In case you haven’t noticed, we are about a year out of the COVID-19 pandemic. And like many industries, the fashion industry is experiencing a resurgence. The fall 2023 season, in particular, is witnessing an injection of innovation and creative verve missing from fashion weeks during the COVID-19 pandemic and before that.

KOLTSON is one such brand that is pushing that proverbial fashion envelope toward more fashion-forward innovation and creativity. And their fall 2023 collection is a prime example of just that.

Robert Rodriguez, creative director of KOLTSON, has been a recognized name in the fashion industry for over two decades. Rodriguez launched his eponymous line in 2003. And that namesake line was known for garments that spoke to women of all ages with elegance, sexy fare that incorporated elements of haute couture.

This time around, Robert Rodriguez brings a similar design aesthetic to KOLTSON. KOLTSON, established in 2023 by Robert Rodriguez, is a luxury eveningwear collection focusing on exceptional sustainable fabrics, beautifully handcrafted details, and uncompromising quality. The marriage of high fashion and art has fascinated for decades and continues to impact cultures around the world. Through collaborations with artists and artisans, KOLTSON brings a common thread between masters of their crafts. By engaging in exhibitions and editorial publications, we are supporting art communities while strengthening cultural awareness and vitality to our sole purpose.

For this fashion outing Rodriguez collaborated with Vicky Barranguet. At the presentation for the fall 2023 collection, Barranguet’s artwork lined the walls of the presentation venue. Barranguet drew inspiration from Rodriguez’s mood boards and overall vision for the series of seven paintings titled “Threads,” while Rodriguez reinterpreted her artwork in the forms of prints, foiling, silhouettes, and embroideries throughout the collection.

“What I wanted to do was collaborate with different artists and bring art and fashion together in a unique way. Through collaborations my vision comes to life,” explained Rodriguez. And the artwork and fashion aptly mirror each other, proving that both mediums are compatible bedfellows.

What stands out most about this fall 2023 collection is that the silhouettes and design aesthetic will appeal to female consumers from almost every possible demographic regardless of size or age. Whether the consumer desires form-fitting garments or ease-of-movement fare, Rodriguez has included something that will fit the design palette of many.

Images courtesy of KOLTSON/Raul Tovar

Having once designed for the House of Dior, this collection expertly includes design elements that lend itself to haute couture. Still, the couture elements in this collection will not distance the average consumer from these garments, only pique their interest and fascination.

It is good to have Robert Rodriguez back. The American fashion market is so grateful!!

—William S. Gooch

Cynthia Rowley Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Now that we are out of the COVID-19 pandemic, well at least metaphorically, fashion brands are trying to figure out how to regain their consumer base and even expand their consumer demographic. And one way that some brands are looking to appeal to consumers is to use the average consumer in their runway shows and campaigns. This inclusive concept works sometimes and sometimes it is disastrous.

For her fall 2023 collection, Cynthia Rowley employed this inclusive concept. And it worked, well somewhat.

That said, Rowley inclusive idea was drastically different from what some other fashion designers were doing. Instead of a runway show or presentation, Rowley did the unthinkable. She produced a comedy presentation at the Sony Theater with several comedians wearing her fall 2023 collection.

“I start each day with ten minutes of stand up,” says Cynthia Rowley. “I’ve long said I wish fashion were funnier. Not necessarily the clothes, but the attitude. After hosting a stand-up comedy night at my store in Montauk this summer with my friend and collaborator Seth Herzog (“The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon,” “Broad City,” “30 Rock,” “Chappelle Show”), it became clear to me that it was time to realize my long-standing dream to host so many of my favorite funny ladies on one stage.”

Wagging fashion tongues were hinting that Rowley was going this route, but no one believed she could pull it off. Well, she did.

Images courtesy of Cynthia Rowley

The comedy show featured some of the biggest names in comedy, the all-star all-female cast included comedians Nikki Glaser (“Welcome Home Nikki Glaser?” on E!), Rachel Feinstein (“Last Comic Standing,” HBO’s “Crashing”), Arden Myrin (Netflix’s “Insatiable,” iHeartRadio’s “Will You Accept This Rose” podcast), Rosebud Baker (Emmy-award winning writer, one of Variety’s “Top Ten Comics to Watch,” writer for Saturday Night Live), Claudia Oshry (“Disgraced Queen” on Amazon Prime, co-host of “The Toast” podcast), Ego Nwodim (“Saturday Night Liv”e cast member since 2018), and Michelle Buteau (Netflix’s ‘The Circle,” “Welcome to Beautopia”)with host Esther Ku (MTV’s “Girl Code,” “Wild ‘N Out,” and “Last Comic Standing”) hilariously tying all of the performances together into one hour of non-stop laughs. Though the comedy show was an overwhelming success, the verdict is still off it this was a good way to showcase her fall 2023 collection.

Though the garments that were able to experience included some trending elements—statement sleeves, sheer fabrics, and stitched-on embellishments—it was a disjointed way to experience a fashion collection. Still, kudos for Rowley’s bravery!!

—William S. Gooch

Dennis Basso Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you want to experience elegant furs, Dennis Basso is your fashion designer of choice during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). And he is one of the few NYFW designers that includes real fur in their collections due to protest from anti-fur activists. Caution to the wind, Basso does what he does best, fur coats and fur-embellished garments.

That said, Basso’s fashion collections include more than fur coats. He also includes wonderful gowns and cocktail dresses in his collection. And his current collection is no exception.

This collection, the 40^th anniversary of the brand, celebrates women—Basso’s customer—dressing out and going out again and celebrating nightlife, and more specifically New York City nightlife. For this collection, Basso referenced several previous collections and fabrications from his 40 years of archives.

This fall 2023 collection is composed of statement daywear looks, luxury out-on-the-town looks, full ballgowns, trench coats, and pantsuits. Basso also includes some current trends and continuing trends in this outing, namely extended statement sleeves, gemstone colors, as well as colorful beading and sequins.

Still, what would a Dennis Basso collection be without his furs. And there is a plethora of furs to satiate the palettes of his loyal consumer base. There are lavender furs, a chinchilla bolero, Russian lynx, a navy lynx jacket, a dolman-sleeved Russian sable coat, and a white mink bolero. In fact, the fur list goes on and on. And with Basso, that is the only way to do it!!

Standout looks in the collection, include, but is not limited to, the brand’s sequined tweed pantsuit with fox shawl, curly lamb silver laminate tweed coat, gold duchess satin strapless gown with hand-embroidered neckline, gold tweed pant suit with curly lamb sleeves, and cream mink cape fringe with silk chiffon blouse and wide-legged jacquard pant.

Images courtesy of Purple PR

Add supermodel Beverly Johnson to the closing look of the collection, and Basso proves that his 40^th anniversary collection is a triumph. Bravo Basso!!

—William S. Gooch

Christian Siriano Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Christian Siriano has proven himself in the fashion industry. But you don’t need me to tell you that.

As one of the few designers from “Project Runway,”—a show he now hosts—that has stood the fashion test of time, Siriano has not only survived the downward trajectory of many former “Project Runway” contestants he has thrived and triumphed.

Siriano has survived so brilliantly that he is now in the conversation with iconic American brands—Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Pamella Roland, and others. Siriano’s fall 2023 collection justified his position in the American fashion constellation.

For his fall 2023 show, staged at Gotham Hall, Siriano produced a 56-garment collection. Inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s character Holly Golightly in the iconic “Breakfast at Tiffany,” Siriano’s color palette mimicked the colors in Hepburn’s garden, with Siriano peppering Gotham Hall with pink, purple, and white floral arrangements.

As with most Siriano’s fashion collections, this fall 2023 contained garments that were overdesigned, bordering on garish fantasies a la Siriano style. No one could pull this off in the US better than Siriano. With Siriano the overdesigned fantasies work in an almost tongue-in-cheek kind of way.

There was not just the current ruffle trend, sheer garments, and bold colors in this outing, there was an overabundance of ruffles and rosettes to the level of garishness, well almost. Still, for Siriano, it worked.

Less is better is not a phrase that readily pops up in Siriano’s fashion vocabulary. More is much better fits Siriano well, especially in this collection.

All that said, there are many garments in this collection that work for that consumer who wants to be noticed and noticed by everyone!! Meaning there is a variety of red-carpet-worthy garments to choose from. And this season, above all other seasons, Siriano got plus-size right.

In collections past, many of Siriano’s plus-size garments did not complement larger models. It was though the garments were just made larger without considering how those garments worked on a larger model. Siriano finally got it right in this outing. Everyone plus size, in addition the brand’s selection of larger models was on point.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Keep up the excellent work Christian and keep using supermodel Coco Rocha. She turns it out in every collection. Christian, you are a fashion star!!

—William S. Gooch

Marissa Wilson Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion should be fun. And for her fall 2023 collection, Marissa Wilson brought a tropical party!!

In case you are not familiar with Marissa Wilson, Wilson is a Guyanese American designer that draws inspiration from dance and the tropical locales of her heritage. For this fall 2023 collection, entitled “Rhythmic,” Wilson, who was once a competitive dancer, drew inspiration from the iconic African American modern dance pioneer and legend Katherine Dunham.

Once called the “Queen of the snaky hips,” by modern dance legend Martha Graham, Katherine Dunham infused her choreography with cultural and sensual movements that were endemic to Caribbean cultures influenced by the spirituality and religions of the African chattel slaves.

The Dunham technique centered around the freedom and isolation of individual body parts, something now witnessed in hip-hop dance. So, it is only fitting that Wilson would be inspired by Katherine Dunham, drawing upon Dunham’s freedom of movement which is so aptly evidenced in Wilson’s form-fitting garments.

Hand-painted prints are a key element of Wilson’s design aesthetic, and this fall 2023 collection expertly employs this element. Though the hand-painted garments conjure up images of sunny tropical days and nights, Wilson does incorporate some light knits, light tweeds, and sweaters into this collection. And Wilson ingeniously injected the current ruffles trend by embellishing some garments with ruffled rosettes.

Models aptly sauntered, danced, and shimmied down the runway in a collection that was designed to put some sass and adventure back into wardrobes. All this gyrating and undulating was capped off by fashion diva extraordinaire Pat Cleveland twirling and swirling down the runway like a fashion dervish with a caged bird of paradise on her head in a way that no can duplicate. Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s pastel plaid hand-beaded gown, black knit mini dress with pastel geo ruffled flowers, and yellow tiered skirt and ruffle flower top.

Images courtesy of Beverly Bonds PR

With this collection, Wilson proves that fashion can be fun and adventurous while still appealing to a wide demographic. Bring the fun and frivolity and let the sunshine in!!

—William S. Gooch

Atelier Cillian Fall 2023

February 12, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Two seasons ago New York Men’s Day (NYMD) returned after being sequestered due to the COVID-19 pandemic. And though fashion industry professionals were excited about the return of NYMD, it has taken a few seasons for NYMD to regain its fashion traction, so to speak.

The fall 2023 has become the best NYMD season to date, post-COVID-19 pandemic, with fashion designers significantly upping the ante when it comes to creating menswear collections that are projecting toward the future. And that projection toward the future is a literal expansion of what masculinity is and what the modern man will have as a part of his wardrobe.

Atelier Cillian’s NYMD debut occurred for the fall 2022 season; however, this fall 2023 collection promises to put the brand on the menswear map perhaps more than any other brand presenting during NYMD. Creative director Stephan Mikhail has had other fashion collections in the past; however, this new reincarnation is perhaps his most complete and cohesive attempt.

Titled “Mallevs Maleficarvm,” Atelier Cillian’s latest collection aptly displays Mikhail’s fascination with unusual and innovative artifacts of times gone by. For his inspiration this season, Stephen Mikhail referenced Heinrich Kramer’s infamous 1486 treatise “Mallevs Maleficarvm” about witchcraft.

In this collection Mikhail demonstrates what was assumed in the Middle Ages to be the pagan elements of nature juxtaposed against the metallic purity of the Roman Catholic church. All this is evidenced in Mikhail utilization of metallic silvers, facsimiles of armor, and monochromatic color patterns, as well as well-tailored silky male blouses, and skin-tight trousers.

Stephen Mikhail has always been acknowledged for his now-and-next fashion, particularly when it comes to men’s fashion. So, the design perspective in this outing is no surprise. Still, Stephen Mikhail has accomplished something quite unique in this collection.

While many menswear designers are pushing for a inclusive and expansive design aesthetic that includes a more binary projection, most fall short in this respect, creating collections that most men would never purchase for their wardrobes. Many of the garments look like costumes from some science fiction project or a Broadway show or rock concert. Mikhail, with his fall 2023 collection, has achieved what so few menswear designers are able to achieve, creating menswear garments that contain both the now-and-next aesthetic combined with a binary approach to menswear that a lot of men would purchase.