Front Row — Page 28

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are familiar with Ines Di Santo you are aware that her bridal runways shows are some of the most coveted shows of New York International Bridal Week. And there is a very good reason for that!!

Ines Di Santo does luxury bridalwear better than anyone. And her collections are seen through the less of a fashion-forward sensibility that always appealing to modern brides and the bridal industry. However, as a consumer you need some very deep pockets if you are in the market for an Ines Di Santo bridal garment.

For the fall 2020 bridal season, Ines Di Santo was inspired by the Impressionist Art movement. Di Santo to capture how the Impressionist painters the transformation of color and texture and how these artists through their work also demonstrated the shifting effect of light and the magic of airy transparency.

This fall 2020 bridal outing contained a huge variety of bridal silhouettes, styles, and fabrications. And there was something in this collection for every type of bride and bridal occasion. From the bridal reception to the day-before bridal dinner to the actual nuptial day, Ines di Santo left no stone unturned. And if you are a very hip, modern bride that is repelled by traditional bridal silhouettes like trumpet gowns, ballgowns, mermaid gowns or fit and flare, Di Santo strategically placed some embellished bridal cocktail dresses, and embellished corset leotard with detachable train and printed cocktail dresses and gowns.

That said; what stood most about this collection was Di Santo’s mastery of texture, fabrication matched with a modern, youthful sensibility. In this respect, Di Santo is unmatched in her mastery of these elements, not only evolving, but is also continuously expanding.

Still, Di Santo’s bridal masterpieces are for the well-heeled bridal market. It would be great if there was a diffusion line of these great fashion pieces of work that was accessible to consumers of lesser means. Everyone deserves a dose of Ines Di Santo.

Photos courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this fall 2020 bridal collection–and there were so many that is was hard to choose–include the brand’s illusion cowl neck sheath with beaded accent straps and low back embroidered lingerie bodice A-line gown textured hem, embroidered sleeveless mini with feathers and textured beading with detachable bow train and streamers, strapless sheath gown with asymmetrical couture bow with 3-dimesional hand-painted and feathered butterflies, and embellished sleeveless high neck mini with chandelier beading and 3D flowers.

William S. Gooch

Berta Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Young American woman are conditioned to believe in their ‘happily ever,’ a.k.a. your wedding day. This is the occasion that will bring them very close to becoming a fairy princess. This fairy princess bride ideal comes into full-on displays of glamour, embezzlements, lace, and sequins during the wedding ceremony. For the bride walking down the aisle, too much is never enough.

Berta continues to fulfill their customers fairytale needs with their fall 2020 collection featuring an abundance of lace, gauze, and sparkle. With roots in Israel, Berta also caters heavily to that customer who want the grand ballgowns and embellishments. The brand also continues to build on the success of their best sellers, like their trumpet gowns, which are found in top American department stores, bridal boutiques, and notable vendors. Trumpet gown silhouettes continue to be a trademark of Berta’s wedding gowns, giving the bride that form-fitting shape at the top with an elegant flare at the bottom.

In the past, tulle embroidered sleeves had been trademarks of Berta’s collection, but this season designer Berta Balilti was encouraging brides to go sleeveless and show a lot more skin with halter-top silhouette bodices. Many modern brides today want to show more skin, taking a less conservative approach to the bridal gown.

Photos courtesy of CLD PR

In a bid to get a little edgier with their bridal offerings, Berta created a sequined minidress with a crystal neckline and straps. Unfortunately, this sequined minidress looked out of place among Berta’s more classic offerings. The sequined minidress as a pre-bridal party or wedding-after dress could work, so from a business perspective the inclusion of this dress made sense.

For as much craftsmanship that goes into Berta’s gowns between the hand-stitched lace and embroidery to getting the silhouettes just right, there is a magical effortless to this fall 2020 collection. And if all the effort and craftmanship makes the bride feel like a dreamy fairy princess, then all the work is worth it.

— Kristopher Fraser

Inbal Dror Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are familiar with Inbal Dror than you are aware that her bridal gowns are a compilation of fashion-forward sensibility, sexiness and sensuality, and a modern projection toward couture. Inbal Dror’s bridal collections are not necessarily for that modern bride who is looking for a traditional gown—although she might be able to find something that fits that ilk. Inbal Dror’s bridal collection are for that bride that is confident in her body and not afraid to push boundaries. This fall 2020 bridal collection is in that vein.

For fall 2020 Inbal Dror by the glow that a modern bride has on her wedding day. Inbal Dror expresses this glow in a halo—visible or invisible. “… the bride glows on her wedding day with a halo, making her the center of a spiritual event. She is a symbol of devotion and tradition. Her dress reflects the eternal feelings she emanates and magical look—it is a fashion icon …,” explains Inbal Dror.

With a variety of halos adorning the heads of the bridal models, this bridal collection consisted mostly of very sheer dresses in a variety of fabrications. True to the brand’s DNA there was a lot of sexy and revealing bridal gowns from tea dresses to fit and flare to gowns with very high slits. Still, Inbal Dror continued her predilection for using lots of embellishments from silver, pearl and 3D appliques, mirror embroidery, and 3D floral accents.

If there was one departure in this outing, it was the transparency and sheerness of the bridal gowns. Perhaps, Inbal Dror adopted this projection because it stayed on the theme of bridal heavenly glow, allowing that glow to shine through the diaphanous garments. In that respect, this collection looked a lot like a bridal collection one would experience with a bridal brand like BERTA.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Standouts in this collection includes the nude deep V point d’esprit gown with 3d floral shoulder accents, tulle one shoulder asymmetric cape over strapless mini with silver, pearl and 3D appliques, deep V tea-length drew with mirror embroidery and silver bows, long-sleeve ivory stretch chiffon gown with silver-beaded bodice, and nude tulle cape sleeve sheath with silver beading and thigh-high slit.

—William S. Gooch

Anne Barge Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Keeping a fashion brand relevant from season to season is a huge accomplishment, particularly when so many brands close shop just after a few years. But, having that fashion brand continue to evolve requires dedication, great skill, and a finger on the pulse of the consumer.

Anne Barge is one such bridal brand. The fall 2020 bridal season marks Anne Barge’s 20^th bridal runway show; a huge accomplishment. And interesting instead of presenting a retrospective of some her most popular looks over the past 20 runway seasons, Barge held a runway show of her fall 2020 bridal collections, as well as presenting looks from previous collection on mannequins in a separate reception space.

Tradition is an essential component of Barge’s brand DNA. But, also is newness and fashion-forward sensibility. For fall 2020, traditional bridal looks, as always, was the core center of the collection; however, Barge added a dose of youthful vitality that helps elevate this collection from just another dissertation on traditional fit and flare bridal gowns and bridal ballgowns. Barge’s utilization of beaded halter bridal gowns and pearl-embellished jumpsuits proves that the brand is in touch with modern bride’s penchant for wanting something more than traditional wedding gowns.

Interestingly, these more modern bridal expressions did not take away from the brand’s signature look. Instead, this new direction, if you want to call it that, only enhances Barge’s trajectory. And the orchids and floral arrangements as headpieces added that extra special touch to this fall 2020 bridal outing.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Standout looks in this outing were the brand’s strapless A-line gown of Mikado scuba accentuated with sequined floral appliques, jumpsuit with mock neck halter bodice of leaf-embroidered lace dripping in pearls with slim trousers of silk cotton, long sleeve columnar gown of stretch crepe accented with draped cowl at back, and draped bodice of floral embossed mattelase with full ballgown pick-up skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Rivini by Rita Vinieris and Alyne By Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Rita Vinieris has always taken an interest in what a bride would want to wear aside from your run-of-the-mill white dress. In the past, the designer has created graffiti jumpsuits and dresses in color palettes of blush pink and baby blue. We live in non-traditional times, so it’s time to start designing for non-traditional brides.

Alyne by Rita Vinieris appeals to a much younger customer with the brand’s sheer dresses and low-cut necklines. It is the era of more fitted silhouettes for the younger bride—unlike the traditional bridal ballgowns of the 1980s—and like most things, even in the bridal industry, sex sells. More brands are also designing for two-piece wedding ensembles, and Alyne offers consumers embroidered sheer crop top with sheer embroidered wide leg pants featuring fringe. It was an outfit that would work for a bride’s after party dress, as it was easy, comfortable, and sporty.

Rivini by Rita Vinieris, the designer’s better-known line is designed for a more classic, mature bride. However, the dresses were not without their marvelous details. A keyhole accent on a white column gown produced a little bit of a more fashionable edge, and lace embroidered capes paired with lace and sequin-embroidered gowns made for a dramatic, regal effect.

Photos courtesy of CLD PR

Both collections were designed with a structural softness that resulted in elevated silhouettes that don’t appear too rigid. Vinieris is one of those gifted bridal designers who can find inspiration from both the new and traditional silhouettes and create two lines that exist simultaneously.

Both lines are on trend the fall 2020 bridal season with the shoulder-baring look differing from the usual off-the-shoulder look. Spaghetti straps and form-fitting corset bodices were signature parts of this collection. Vinieris keeps managing to reinvent the look of bridal luxury, and that’s what makes her collections great and accessible.

—Kristopher Fraser

THEIA Bridal Fall 2020

October 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are looking for a bridal show that always has interesting bridal themes, then THEIA would be a great choice. THEIA’s Creative Director Don O’Neill consistently injects interesting and unique themes and references into each bridal collection. From opium dens to David Bowie to 70s disco to Irish water nymphs, O’Neill is never at a loss for coming up with varied points of view and unusual sources of inspiration.

With that is mind, THEIA as a bridal brand has also evolved. Keeping in mind that the US bridal market can be a bit conservative and traditional, though the brand continues to draw inspiration from unusual subject matter, Don O’Neill has learned, over the years, to not allow the inspiration to weigh down the collection. There is now an accessibility to the collection that was somewhat missing some years back.

This season O’Neill was inspired by Frida Kahlo, after visiting the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. Additionally, O’Neill found inspiration Julie Helen, a friend who courageously battles cerebral palsy. These two strong women form the core of the inspiration for the fall 2020 bridal collection.

Signature crepe dresses form the foundation of the collection, simple and clean silhouettes alongside gowns adorned with jeweled straps, lace appliques, and guipure trims, or a plunging neckline embroidered with pearls and micro-sequins. laser-cut floral petals are delicately embroidered on soft tulle that gently stretches and cradles the body, while volume and ruffles in parachute taffeta, silk organza and tulle swirl playfully around the body decorated with flowers, like those that Frida picked daily from her gardens at Casa Azul.

Photos courtesy of THEIA

Standout looks in this outing include the brand’s crepe apron neck gown with fuchsia silk organza scarf, hand-beaded crystal vest over satin trousers, crepe off-the-shoulder gown with draped bodice and soft ball skirt, cutaway shoulder Mikado ball gown with plunge neckline, and plunge-front silk organza tiered ball gown adorned with silk flower.

—William S. Gooch

Lee Petra Grebenau Bridal Fall 2020

October 6, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

In case you were not aware, a slew of Israeli bridal designers now present collections during New York International Bridal Week. From Inbal Dror—who is a consistent presenter—to Mira Zwillinger to Galia Lahav, New York International Bridal has become a viable venue for Israeli bridal designers.

Lee Petra Grebenau celebrated its 10^th anniversary by presenting their fall 2020 bridal collection during New York International Bridal Week. As one of the premier Israeli bridal brands, is distinguished not only for its bridal wear, but also for its evening war.

“It’s an exciting time for me,” explains Lee Petra Grebenau. “The show marks the beginning of my 10^th anniversary and it’s like a dream come true; to be able to help other women fulfill their dreams by designing dresses that carry the most valuable of meaning in one of the most important days of their lives.”

For the brand’s fall 2020 bridal collection, Lee Petra Grebenau was inspired by one of the rarest gems, pearls. Pearls are symbol of purity and beauty and has represented timeless elegance and classic style.

Creating a bridal collection that relies so heavily on pearl embellishment, though quite beautiful, is a huge risk for any bridal designer. Especially, if that bridal designer is not solidly embedded in the New York bridal market. Still, Lee Petra Grebenau took that risk and the risk paid off, partly due to Grebenau employing the appropriate bridal garment silhouettes that matched perfectly the pearl inspiration. Also, Grebenau understood when to go heavy on the pearl embellishment—depending on the silhouette—or when less is more.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks from this fall 2020 bridal collection include pearl-encrusted silk tulle ballgown with small pearl belt, beaded A-line off-the-shoulder gown with corset and beaded illusion tulle, beaded silk tulle mini dress with feathers godets and matching cape, high neck jumpsuit encrusted with beads and feathers, and pearl-encrusted silk tulle ballgown with small pearl belt, beaded A-line off-the-shoulder gown with corset and beaded illusion tulle, beaded silk tulle mini dress with feathers godets and matching cape, high neck jumpsuit encrusted with beads and feathers,

—William S. Gooch

Dennis Basso Spring 2020

September 14, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Though Dennis Basso is known—particularly outside of the fashion industry—as a fur designer. But he is so much more than that. And with the push toward a free-free industry—California recently passed legislation that restricts manufacture and ownership of new animal fur products—Basso has rightly moved his brand beyond only creating animal-fur garments.

For spring 2020 Dennis Basso looked to classic beauties of the past and attempted to recreate their style as seen through the lens of modern sophistication. From the trendsetting style of Jayne Wrightsman and her bevy of svelte, swan-like friends to modern socialites of that ilk, Basso in this collection combined classic silhouettes of the 1950s and 60s—cinched in waist and bell-shaped frocks, as well as body-lengthening column sheaths—and re-interpreted these classic silhouettes into garments that a modern woman can relate. Additionally, Basso incorporated some sporty daywear, which is on-trend and seen as an element in many spring 2020 collections, in an effort to capture a more youthful consumer.

Basso has recently dressed some younger celebs, namely Bianca Andreescu, winner of the 2019 US Open, demonstrating that his brand can appeal to a younger consumer. However, Dennis Basso is still solidly a high-end fashion brand that has stronger attraction to the ladies who lunch ilk.

The color palette in this collection ranged from china blue and white, café crème to classic black and white. With fabrications ranging from trendsetting denim to cotton canvas, silk gazaar, jacquards and satins. There were some fur highlights evidenced in sheared mink, broadtail, and shearling. Basso also included a lot of embellishments in this collection from embellished flowers to beaded embroidery, feathers and three-dimensional flowers.

For the most part, Basso’s spring 2020 collection was a hit, but there were some misses. Namely, vintage looks that didn’t easily translate to the modern woman—particularly some of the garments that looked as though were taken directly from the pages of American Vogue of the 1970s.

Photos courtesy of gorunway.com/vogue.com

Standout looks in this collection include Basso’s café-paneled broadtail and nylon coat, paneled hazel suede jacket with paneled hazel suede midi skirt, striped mink and nylon jacket with floral hand-embroidered canvas cocktail dress, full-length white antique georgette maxi dress, and hand-embroidered white feather gown.

—William S. Gooch

Badgley Mischka Spring 2020

September 12, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Claudette Colbert is a name that many may not remember. She won the Academy Award for Best Actress in 1935 for “It Happened One Night,” and over her long career counted a Golden Globe win, along with Emmy and Tony nominations. She wasn’t one to be obsessed with the spotlight and buying a Hollywood mansion wasn’t her style, so instead she purchased Bellerive, an 18^th-century home in Barbados where she would entertain the likes of Frank Sinatra, Princess Margaret, and New York socialite Babe Paley.

When the creative duo Mark Badgley and James Mischka, the duo behind Badgley Mischka, saw the photos of how these notable figures dressed while visiting Bellerive, Badgley Mischka found their inspiration for their spring 2020 collection. Tropical patterns of colorful florals and the bright colors of lilac and orange were reminiscent of a vacation to Barbados. If Barbados was the mother of inspiration, the island’s seas and palm trees were the children of inspiration with forest green and aqua helping to create a dazzling collection.

Although this collection was for spring 2020, it did look a bit like a resort collection—perhaps a few of these designs could have been used for resort 2020. That said; Badgley Mischka also took classic silhouettes and gave them a twist.

The opening look was a tailored suit fitted for the professional businesswoman. Rather than your traditional black or navy power suit, this suit was done in gorgeous lagoon blue with Hibiscus flowers. Perhaps, it is time businesswomen are allowed wear more print-patterned garments into the board room.

As usual though, the duo’s design strengths are made most evident in their evening wear. A one-shoulder column dress in vibrant red was the perfect fit for those Upper East Side charity gala attendees, many of whom were found in the audience and have been long-time Badgley Mischka customers. A lilac gown with embroidered shoulders and a thigh high slit was both sexy and sophisticated, proving that the designers can dress both the older New York City doyennes and sexy young starlets.

Photos courtesy of Filippo Fior/gorunway.com/vogue.com

Badgley Mischka has taken the Hollywood fashionista look and given it an island aesthetic that is perfect for the modern woman. Once you escape winter, slip into your most colorful evening gown.

—Kristopher Fraser

Adeam Spring 2020

September 11, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

There is an East-meets-West design aesthetic almost every season at Adeam, the fashion brand by designer Hanako Maeda that has quickly become a favorite of celebrities including Maggie Gyllenhaal, Suki Waterhouse, Michelle Obama, and Oprah Winfrey. Maeda is continuously inspired by her two favorite cities, New York and Tokyo, creating an aesthetic that is part Japanese street style and part American contemporary. Maeda transported the audience to the port of Yokohama—where the Japanese first encountered Western culture when Commodore Matthew Perry arrived just south of Yokohama with a fleet of American warships—for her latest collection.

City girl style met nautical dressing as knitwear and tailored pieces were laced with classic maritime details such as stripes and sailor collars. Chunky sweaters in Adeam’s signature Angel Hair Cotton yarn, a fabric used to create breathable, lightweight pieces, included the color palette of ocean such as oyster beige, aqua blue, navy, and terracotta. They were accented with nautical stripes and sleeves that unbuttoned to expose a touch of skin. This increased versatility, giving consumers the ability to go from an early, balmy spring day to wearability in early summer temperatures.

Maeda also draws inspiration from kawaii, the culture of cuteness in Japan which refers to people and things that are charming, vulnerable, shy, or childlike. This inspiration was demonstrated in pieces like convertible sleeves and bold strip shirting. These playful, youthful sweaters were paired with structured, tailored pieces like sailor jackets, resulting in elevated, yet comfortable looks.

The more delicate cocktail dresses and evening gowns were inspired by a more fairytale-like idea of the ocean. Dresses were embellished with pearls and crystals that looked like droplets of water on the skin. Maeda also took an unconventional approach to seersucker, using it to create whimsical ruffles of red and oyster beige.

Images courtesy of Karla Otto

As Adeam’s celebrity clientele list grows, Maeda is now creating more red-carpet worthy looks. While there are still tons of day wear to be found, Adeam has expanded beyond elevated, tailored looks that are worthy of the Fashion Week street style photographers into looks fit for Hollywood’s prominent actresses. Adeam continues to be a brand with something that every woman would want to own.

— Kristopher Fraser