SEVENCRASH Fall 2020

SEVENCRASH’s fall 2020 collection looked at the dystopian world from the perspective of three alternative possibilities. As unsettling as this point of view might seem for a fashion collection, it was a timely compendium of where we may be heading.

SEVENCRASH has established itself as a disruptive fashion brand that aptly combines technology and fashion as a sustainable endeavor. “As a disruptive brand, we believe in progress and staying ahead of the curve, in the current climate, sustainability needs to be and will be every brand’s number one priority. Every season we have been devoting more and more of our resources to researching and developing sustainable textiles and increasing the role they play in our design process. This is our mandate and an integral part of our corporate culture,” explains Brand CEO Jason Yao.

In this collection SEVENCRASH looks at the planet in 2065, forty years later, where technology has led to an overexploited earth, and artificial intelligence has brought on an existential crisis. In that state of dystopia, SEVENCRASH explores their design aesthetic through three series, prosperity to decay and, finally, to nirvana.

The Prosperity Series examines how artificial intelligence, technology and science has advance the human process, enabling people to live lives of more comfort and convenience. This series is made evident in exaggerated large-scale silhouettes and futuristic biotechnology green, demonstrating how mankind is thriving.

In the Decay Series mankind is surrounding by chaos and destruction. SEVENCRASH makes this evident in “destructive” spray washing/finishing process and carbon pollution color digital printing to express the atmosphere of earth’s imminent destruction. The ingenious use of orderly interlaced weaves of filled plume, with tangled tassels running through and under them, mapped out the future of technology and how its development will likely take human civilization to an incalculable plane.

The last series, the Nirvana series, demonstrates that mankind has achieved a balance between ecology and technology; a kind a phoenix rising out of destruction and chaos. Garment silhouettes were disproportionately combined to form explosive stacks and kits, forming a harmonious new silhouette born of conflict. The same amalgamation applies to the fabric and decoration.

Image courtesy of Jane Kim/SEVENCRASH

These three distinctive futuristic expressions are funneled their SEVENCRASH’s design acuity with outerwear, and bubble coats and parkas. This fall 2020 outing gives voice to mankind’s ability to survive almost anything, even in a dystopian world. And that survival will express itself in what we wear. It always does!!

William S. Gooch

ARTISTIX Fall 2020

Is ARTISTIX campaigning to be the brand of choice for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics. If so, they have an early start and their fall 2020 collection should put them in the running.

With ARTISTIX’s “Adventure” collection, founder Greg Polisseni and creative director Andy Hilfiger looked to winter slopes and skiwear for inspiration. This 2020 fall collection was an “Adventure” into winter wonderland seen through the lens of luxury streetwear.

“I’m so proud of the collection that we premiered for F/W 2020,” said Polisseni. “The pieces incorporate the print of my painting Stars & Stripes which makes this collection that much more important to me. Stars & Stripes was created as a symbol of unity which is portrayed through the styles. I want to especially thank Klarna and Style360 for partnering with us for this show, we couldn’t have asked for a more prepared team!”

Since 2016, with Andy Hilfiger manning the creative helm of ARTISTIX, the brand has been making inroads in combining American streetwear with a rock n’ roll sensibility. Interestingly, this combined design aesthetic is rarely, if at all, associated with skiwear. However, for this fall 2020 collection Andy Hilfiger found an ingenious way for ARTISTIX’s design aesthetic to work on wintry slopes.

This collection is also infused with inspiration from Greg Polisseni’s well-known  painting Stars and Stripes. The shades of red and blue of Stars and Stripes was incorporated into ARTISTIX’s signature camo pattern. All tying in the brand’s aesthetic of art, soul, and rock n’ roll.

Images courtesy of ARTISTIX

“We’re like a band and the audience are our fans. We’re all about the music, art, and fashion” said Andy Hilfiger after the presentation. “We brought the Artistix lifestyle to everyone that came to the presentation and now they can bring the vibe with them to the ski slopes.”

—William S. Gooch

Zadig & Voltaire Fall 2020

Sweden of the 1970s and the Parisian streets of the 1920s were the two contrasting forces that became the DNA of Zadig & Voltaire’s fall 2020 collection. The brand’s creative director, Cecilia Bönström, was inspired by her childhood memories of Gothenburg, the second largest city in Sweden, for a collection that was heavily focused on color combinations. Though drawing from nostalgia, this fall 2020 collection managed to look toward the future.

Bönström brought back the colors, paisley patterns, and floral prints that graced the 70s in an era that was all about daring to dream and being bold. Although the 70s embraced disco nightlife, this collection was not your parent’s clubwear. Rather, it was vintage-inspired tastes with modern appeal for customers, embracing the streets of Paris and Sweden’s cultural hubs.

In contrast to the bright colors and patterns, and in the spirit of Parisian chic, there was also a lot of black that emanated from Zadig & Voltaire’s take on the little black dress. Additionally, the brand’s neutral penchant encompassed tailored suiting. The brand’s tailoring perspective works in parallel with the industry more recent concentration on tailoring, and in this respect, tailoring in the spirit of the roaring ‘20s. Still, this collection did not focus on the strict formality of the 1920s, but, rather, styling for women who want to present a powerful visage and men who want to look more stylish, while maintaining an edgy style like a rock n’ roll star in a suit.

While Bönström didn’t set out to make this a genderless collection, she worked to bend gender codes in fashion by creating silhouettes that go beyond gender. For that vintage meets modern aesthetic, there was also revamped tweeds, velvets, and aged leather. As today’s consumers are starting to covet vintage pieces and vintage looks, Zadig & Voltaire were on trend with these key details.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

The collection was a reminder when moving forward, often you have to pay homage to the past. Heritage and nostalgia don’t have to look dated or old news, but, rather, and be reinvented to project something new.

Kristopher Fraser

Just in XX Fall 2020

Though the show notes from Just in XX detail that Taiwanese streetwear designer Justin Yu-Ying Chou was inspired by Taiwanese modern and contemporary artist, Tsong Pu, and his use of continuous square matrices, at closer examination, perhaps Justin Yu-Ying Chou was inspired the Lubavitch sect of the Hasid. Known for his unique pairing of East Asian design aesthetic and Western references, Yu-Ying Chou in this fall 2020 collection melded the two seeming disparate cultures seamlessly.

While some industry professionals may not have noticed the similarity between Yu-Ying Chou’s garments and faith-based attire of the ultra-conservative Lubavitch Hasid, most observant New Yorkers and industry professionals of a certain age recognize this reference. And particularly if you are familiar with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s fall 1993 “Chic Rabbis” collection, you will observe that Yu-Ying Chou’s fall 2020 collection reflects a similar reference point. The distinguishing difference being Yu-Ying Chou’s collection is heavily based in urban streetwear.

Which is the genius of this collection. Yu-Ying Chou has demonstrated for several seasons that his quite adept at melding references and inspirations from disparate sources. However, this season Yu-Ying Chou struck gold with this blending of different cultures. And interestingly many of the looks in the collection had an undeniable 80s vibe, particularly when combined with Lubavitch Hasid-like hats. This look was all the range in the late 80s in NYC. (Think Amy Irving in “Delancey Street.”) To that point looks of chic urbanites in late 80s New York City flaunted the oversized outerwear that was so predominant in this collection.

That said; what stood out most in this collection was Yu-Ying Chou’s outerwear. Many of Yu-Ying Chou’s layered outwear combinations that came in a range of bold colors and with embellished with geometrical shapes, reflecting Tsong Pu’s art aesthetic of line and shape, added an exciting combination of modern art and streetwear swag. In some instances, this collection was wearable art while still being accessible and viable to modern consumers.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

Yu-Ying Chou in this collection also brilliantly mastered the art of cultural appropriation without stigmatizing or off-putting any of the cultural references he drew inspiration from. In an era where some designers don’t understand how to appropriately give homage to sources of inspiration, Yu-Ying Chou seamlessly combined different cultural sources in respectful celebration.

William S. Gooch

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2020

Nothing brings more joy to a fashion industry professional’s heart than to see a beloved fashion designer really come into his own. Most of the time, it doesn’t happen. No matter how great the promise or how unique the point of view, in the current market, most fashion designers/brands don’t last long enough to fulfill even a small part of their potential. However, there are some recent exceptions in the last decade—Christian Siriano, Cushnie, Pyer Moss, Rodarte, and a few others.

Bibhu Mohapatra is one such brand that is realizing the depth and wealth of its potential. Inspired by Amrita Pritam’s 1950 novel, Pinjar, which details the struggles of East Indian women in the 50s, Mohapatra sought to celebrate East Indian women in all their many expresses, especially those East Indian women who have influenced and nurtured him.

Mostly known for his intricate and heavily embellished evening wear, what Bibhu Mohapatra demonstrated so brilliantly in this fall 2020 collection is that he can celebrate his consumer at almost every jointure of her day—well, maybe not the yoga or gym class. Though Mohapatra shines most brightly when it comes to his knockout red-carpet evening wear, this season his day looks were pretty spectacular.

That said; Mohapatra’s daywear is still for that fashion-forward consumer who travels internationally and is comfortable with an East Meets West design aesthetic—an aesthetic which is Mohapatra’s bread and better. Still, there were some daywear pieces that would appeal to a wide swarth of female consumers; particularly Mohapatra’s Dhoti pants which  were brilliantly paired with stylish jackets.

One of the things that makes Bibhu Mohapatra’s eveningwear so special is his ability to render his unique design aesthetic is a variety of silhouettes. From princess gowns to column dress to sheath dresses with extended trains, Mohapatra has become a master at distilling his ideas of regal beauty.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Standout looks from this fall 2020 collection include a chiffon-skirted strapless number featuring Mughal architecture-inspired embroidery, lacquered velvet dhoti pants  with white madras coat, black and grey tweed suit with peplum jacket, organza and silk pink and white cocktail dress with floral embellishments and organza bow sleeves, and white column dress with grey floral print, black belt and black silk crossbody scarf.

—William S. Gooch

Libertine Fall 2020

Johnson Hartig’s latest Libertine collection was presented just a few days before Valentine’s Day, but he clearly had love on his mind. Hartig is known for his loud and proud left-of-center politics, and he’s not afraid to admit that a certain political figure is practically burning the ground as far as he’s concerned. And people need to wake up and do something proactive to save the planet.

In between trying to promote a left-of-center agenda, Hartig had found the time to do something that was meant to be a break from all of the horrors of humanity; create maximalist, colorful clothes, many of which featured heart motifs that became a key detail for Libertine’s fall 2020 collection. Despite his deep desire for a better world to happen and immediate change, Hartig sees fashion as a place where one can find peace and tranquility in color, pattern, and design. It is within our clothes that we can be free to dream in technicolor and send a message to the world about who we are.

In a world where everything chaotic and on a downward spiral, Libertine’s customers aren’t down and out. The Libertine customer expresses themselves jubilantly in embroidered capes with multicolored, emblazoned hearts in celebration of life. In the darkest of times, dare to be bold, and don’t let dim your glamor or your glitter-encrusted jacket from shimmering.

Images courtesy of the Krupp Group

As always, the eternal theme at Libertine is more is more. Tailored black suits were embellished with the entire alphabet in sequins, and coats were embellished with gold sequined guitars. A grey twill blazer was embellished with mixed media fabrics for a statement making effect. The collection was playful, pretty, and a much-needed punch to the mundane. No matter the state of the world, a good outfit can help you be your own shining light.

Kristopher Fraser

Hakan Akkaya Fall 2020

Every season, fashion industry professional anxiously anticipate the next great fashion designer/brand. In fact, many can recall when the first encountered Alexander Wang or became familiar with Marc Jacobs’ design aesthetic. Many industry professionals boast that in spite of Christian Siriano’s turn on “Project Runway,” they knew that he had all the goods. Or some contend they were the first in the States to discover the gender fluid phenomena Palomo Spain.

Unfortunately, New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) doesn’t give industry professional many opportunities these days to witness extraordinary talent. However, when a new talent comes on the NYFWS scene, everyone stands up and takes notice.

Though not exactly new on the scene—this is Hakan Akkaya’s third season showing at NYFWS—everyone is taking notice of Turkish designer, Hakan Akkaya. To an overpacked house at Pier 59, Hakan Akkaya demonstrated that he is becoming a fashion force to be reckoned with and that he possesses the skill set and design aesthetic necessary to create a huge fashion career.

Hakan Akkaya’s fall 2020 “Justice” collection was heavy on gender fluidity, punk subculture, and hardware. Interestingly, all of these points of view have been seen before and in lots of incarnations; still, like all brilliant designers, Akkaya understands that the genius of a collection is not necessarily in the innovation but in how all the parts come together. Additionally, combining gender neutrality—particularly when it comes to menswear—with a hardcore punk aesthetic with sadomasochistic overtones is not an easy thing to do. However, Akkaya pulled it off with stylish charm and imagination.

This fall 2020 collection had almost everything that a brand could wish for. It was sexy when it needed to be while not descended into the va va voom category. It was fashion forward while staying accessible. It has charm, wit and humor without being kitschy. And lastly, it was powerful with great force without being oppressive and overbearing.

If there was drawback to this collection, it would be Hakan Akkaya’s penchant for making everything is neutral colors. A splash of bold color would have elevated this fall 2020 collection out of the realm of urban warrior gear, ready to battle the urban terrain with all its dangerous adventures.  There are stylish souls who don’t reside in urban jungles. And those stylish creatures might feel a little intimidated by this collection. Then again, powerful fashion statements are not for the mild mannered.

Interestingly, this could be the ideal collection for that stylish warrior that’s ready to revolt against a repressive political regime, gearing up for the revolution. A revolution against oppressive ideals, making your statement about gender equality, freedom of expression, and sexual diversity.

Images courtesy of The Bromley Group

There were many great standouts in this “Amish meets Punk” collection. The most noteworthy were the many man skirts, Akkaya’s white Amish blouse with black pencil skirt with side ruffled embellishments, black long-sleeved fit-and-flare gown with bobby pin embellishments, Amish black slacks with patent-leather lapel vest, white Amish blouse with patent-leather skirt and embellished bustier, and black patent-leather top with matching shorts underneath diaphanous black gown.

—William S. Gooch

Mukzin x Harbin Fall 2020

This has been a somber New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) with a Chinese brand showcasing its wares to a partially empty room amid fears the coronavirus could force Asian labels to cancel their catwalks.

“Mukzin might be the only Chinese brand you will see at this New York Fashion Week,” said an announcer, before introducing the fall 2020 collection of designer Kate Han. The announcer caroused the audience in rousing chant of “Get it China!” before starting the show. Unfortunately, Fashion Reverie reports that some unevenness is always to be expected when you have a designer who marries traditional Japanese tailoring with more modern elements what was produced was a wildly incohesive collection with styling elements that were truly mystifying.

The color story was all over the place. The show began with traditional Chinese floral embroidery on satin pastels and followed by a grey wool suit woven with silver threads matching the silver chain face mask and black lace tights. Immediately followed by a floral sweater and skirt set worn with platform white sneakers. Next there was a dark grey wool coat in a traditional Chinese embroidery paired with turquoise cowboy boots. It just kept getting weirder after that. Many of the garments were spectacular why these outstanding garments were included in the same collection was baffling.

A silk top with bamboo print paired with a high-waisted black skirt was so effortlessly chic consumers would be scrambling for it. Additionally, a traditional printed top and tight skirt was one of the few times the cowboy boots mixed with the Chinese design in a seamless manner.

There were some amazing and beautiful pants suits that melded traditional Chinese silhouettes with Western styling that were sleek and gorgeous. A blue and green tartan trench coat was beautiful but once again what was it doing in THIS collection? There are no words for the neon green muff bedazzled with silver chains paired with a dark floral kimono.

Images courtesy of theguildmagazine.com

Mukzin is one of only a handful of Chinese designers presenting during the NYFWS fall 2020 season. Several brands including Angel Chen and Asai have had to cancel their appearances in Milan and London, respectively.  While no mention was made of it, Fashion Reverie can’t help but wonder if Mukzin wasn’t forced to make do with what was on hand? Perhaps as a result of the travel or quarantine restrictions they were unable to get their entire collection out. None of the garments were bad what was confusing was how the garments were related? What story was the story the designer trying to tell?

But given how truly stunning some of the outfits were, Fashion Reverie is happy to keep an eye out in the future for Mukzin’s next collection.

Cameron Rose Grey

Laquan Smith Fall 2020

Laquan Smith’s time has arrived. Well, it actually arrived a few seasons back. Still, Smith’s fall 2020 collection solidified his status as an American designer that is a part of the new wave of designers that are rewriting rules and have distinctive voices.

Always known for his ultra-sexy collections, Laquan Smith’s fall 2020 collection did not stray too far from his form-fitting, titillating design aesthetic. In fact, in some respects he increased his in-your-face sexy vixen perspective. However, in this outing Smith added something that was sometimes missing in previous collections, elegance and sophistication.

The Laquan Smith client is not afraid of her sexuality, in fact, she flaunts it. And with Laquan Smith garments, you also need an incredible physique to show off his sex siren ware.

That said, Smith’s fall 2020 collection added another layer to his slaying-with-your-sexiness aesthetic. There were a few pieces in this collection that demonstrated that Smith knows how to play with volume and that he can exercise restraint when he wants to.

In this collection, Laquan Smith ingeniously married off-the-hip pants—some fitted, some baggy—with revealing shirts, top and crop tops. Though not exactly daywear, these combinations—reminiscent of club clothes from the 1970s and 80s—expands Laquan’s collection beyond sexy vixen night wear. This combination of sequined tops and shirts with streetwear pants also gave rise to the notion that Laquan Smith’s customer can be sexy with showing a lot of thigh or in skintight cocktail dresses with low décolletage. She can be an around-the-way-girl with va va voom to spare!!

Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch / gorunway.com

Another advance for Smith this season was his cast a A-list models, in fact, some supermodels. Adding Hilary Rhoda, Elsa Hosk, Daphne Groeneveld, Herieth Paul, Dahely Nunez, Alanna Arrington, Sanne Vloet, Lameka Fox, and Mason McKenrick to any runway elevates a collection.

If there was one drawback to this collection, that drawback would be needing to have a killer body, or close to sexy supreme physique, to wear these clothes. Still, sexy reigns supreme with Laquan. And that is a good thing!!

Keep up the good work, Mr. Smith!!

—William S. Gooch

Tadashi Shoji Fall 2020

What happens when a well-known fashion brand loses its way? It’s hard to say. Sometimes, the brand recovers. A new creative director can set a fashion brand back on track. Sometimes, restructuring the company and focusing on what works can save a brand. Ralph Lauren did that.

Other times the brand begins to fade into memory. That may be the story of Donna Karan, Zac Posen, American Apparel, Charlotte Ronson, The Limited, just to name a few. Still, if that brand was popular and added value to the industry, there are hopes of a resurgence and better market traction.

All that can be said for Tadashi Shoji. Tadashi Shoji still has some market traction and is beloved by female consumers who want luxury at an affordable price, particularly if you are above a size 10. Yet, his fall 2020 collection demonstrated that Shoji may be way out of touch with what the modern woman wants to wear.

Though it has been confirmed that Tadashi Shoji’s inspiration for his fall 2020 collection was a reflection on Mongolian empires of the 13th and 15th century, with the exception of a few outstanding pieces in the collection, it would be very difficult to identify Shoji’s reference to that powerful Mongolian reign. For the most part, the fall 2020 collection resembled a walk down memory lane of what Crystal and Alexis Carrington of “Dynasty” fame wore when they donned the padded-shouldered power suits of the mid-1980s and brocaded taffeta gowns of that same era.

That reflection of the past would not have bad if the garments matched up to the glamour and splendor of that era. Unfortunately, this outing was lackluster facsimile thereof. The failure lying mostly in the very inexpensive fabric choices and bad tailoring. Everyone knows that if you are going to use curvy and plus-size models in a fashion show—and there several in this outing—you must never put cheap fabrics on zaftig frames. That is a surefire recipe for disaster.

Additionally, Shoji—though known for his East meets West design aesthetic—did very little to modernize the well-known silhouettes in the collection. So, in essence, this collection looked like a staid homage rather than a reinterpretation of a bygone era.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

There were a few high points in this fall 2020 collection. Shoji’s opening look of skirt beaded in the pattern of Mongolian geometric tiles in turquoise and royal blues was a knockout and the many Afghan coats with brocades interiors and exteriors caused fashion pulses to beat faster.

Tadashi Shoji should be applauded for putting several curvy and plus-size models in his show—it may have been as many as eight. Still, fashion industry professionals long for the Tadashi Shoji of yesteryear where glamour, sophistication, and quality reigned supreme.

—William S. Gooch

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