Mukzin x Harbin Fall 2020

This has been a somber New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) with a Chinese brand showcasing its wares to a partially empty room amid fears the coronavirus could force Asian labels to cancel their catwalks.

“Mukzin might be the only Chinese brand you will see at this New York Fashion Week,” said an announcer, before introducing the fall 2020 collection of designer Kate Han. The announcer caroused the audience in rousing chant of “Get it China!” before starting the show. Unfortunately, Fashion Reverie reports that some unevenness is always to be expected when you have a designer who marries traditional Japanese tailoring with more modern elements what was produced was a wildly incohesive collection with styling elements that were truly mystifying.

The color story was all over the place. The show began with traditional Chinese floral embroidery on satin pastels and followed by a grey wool suit woven with silver threads matching the silver chain face mask and black lace tights. Immediately followed by a floral sweater and skirt set worn with platform white sneakers. Next there was a dark grey wool coat in a traditional Chinese embroidery paired with turquoise cowboy boots. It just kept getting weirder after that. Many of the garments were spectacular why these outstanding garments were included in the same collection was baffling.

A silk top with bamboo print paired with a high-waisted black skirt was so effortlessly chic consumers would be scrambling for it. Additionally, a traditional printed top and tight skirt was one of the few times the cowboy boots mixed with the Chinese design in a seamless manner.

There were some amazing and beautiful pants suits that melded traditional Chinese silhouettes with Western styling that were sleek and gorgeous. A blue and green tartan trench coat was beautiful but once again what was it doing in THIS collection? There are no words for the neon green muff bedazzled with silver chains paired with a dark floral kimono.

Images courtesy of theguildmagazine.com

Mukzin is one of only a handful of Chinese designers presenting during the NYFWS fall 2020 season. Several brands including Angel Chen and Asai have had to cancel their appearances in Milan and London, respectively.  While no mention was made of it, Fashion Reverie can’t help but wonder if Mukzin wasn’t forced to make do with what was on hand? Perhaps as a result of the travel or quarantine restrictions they were unable to get their entire collection out. None of the garments were bad what was confusing was how the garments were related? What story was the story the designer trying to tell?

But given how truly stunning some of the outfits were, Fashion Reverie is happy to keep an eye out in the future for Mukzin’s next collection.

Cameron Rose Grey

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