Anne Klein Spring 2021

September 21, 2020 by Leave a Comment

In case you didn’t know, Anne Klein was one of the pioneers of classic American sportswear. Anne Klein’s brand became popular as more American women were entering the workforce.

After Coco Chanel, Anne Klein was one of the first designers to adapt menswear silhouettes for women, eventually creating the first separates for women. And with these separates, women could devise a range of combinations of clothing. “Her first introduction of separates changed American [fashion] and liberated the way women dressed forever. She was the first to create sophisticated styles in all sizes, for all ages, true today as the brand serves all women all over the world,” explained Jesse Gre Rubinstein, Anne Klein’s daughter.

By the late 1960s, Anne Klein’s clothing was sold in over 750 stores and boutiques. When Klein died of breast cancer in 1975, Donna Karan, who was one of her lead designers, took over the brand until Karan launched her own eponymous fashion house. For over forty years after Anne Klein’s death the brand has continued in one form or another, with Anne Klein & Co. taken over by The Jones Group in 2003, and in 2019 taken over by WHP Global.

Anne Klein’s spring 2021 collection is the first time the brand has been shown during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) for several years.  Anne Klein once famously said, “Clothes won’t change the world, the women who wear them will.” And this spring 2021 collection is directed to women who are empowered to realize their potential.

True to form there were lots of separates in this collection and also on brand was this collection’s concentration on garments that work equally at work or for a quiet night on the town. And though there are some well-designed separates in this collection, there were no surprises. Without that special garment or that eye turner, this spring 2021 collection is almost an updated vintage homage to the Anne Klein of the early 1970s.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

And though there was value in this return to NYFW, one wonders in a time when most working women are working from home, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, why the brand would concentrate so much on working or office clothes.

That said; what does work is that this spring 2021 collection is beyond seasons. There are garments that work for fall and spring. Add to that the size inclusiveness of this collection, this Anne Klein spring 2021 collection should appeal to a significant number of consumers. Anne Klein is back!!

—William S. Gooch

Alice + Olivia Spring 2021

September 21, 2020 by Leave a Comment

They always say time changes things, but you actually have to change them yourself.” The infamous words of legendary artist Andy Warhol ring true right now as the fashion industry continues to grapple with change and the reckoning of COVID-19 pandemic. While New York Fashion Week (NYFW) did look very different this season, with the majority of shows going digital, fashion designers still found a reason to celebrate and look forward to brighter and more stylish days ahead.

Stacey Bendet, designer of Alice + Olivia, presented a literal dancing celebration of New York’s creative industries during a time of change. The collection took a sporty, bohemian vibe and was presented through a live socially distanced performance in Manhattan’s Meatpacking neighborhood.

The dance performance was choreographed by Ebony Williams,  lead dancer of the now defunct Cedar Lake Contemporary Ballet, a featured dancer in Beyoncé’s videos, and the choreographer for upcoming film adaptation of “In The Heights.” By using dancers for this presentation Bendet  showed the functionality and movement quality embedded in athleisure wear.

Alice + Olivia is well known for featuring tons of color and prints but going the athleisure route didn’t lead to the brand deviating too much from their usual aesthetic. Fresh-printed sweatshirts were paired with sweeping skirts, hoodies were layered under chic blazers, and track pants had toggle bottoms.

The color palette was a retro rainbow, an ode to 1970s fashion, embracing an “anything goes” attitude, and embracing both the gritty and creativity of  1970s New York City. Graphic pink tie dye and bohemian florals were combined in a world of burgundy, ruby red, jade green, goldenrod yellow.

Images courtesy of Alice + Olivia

Bold outerwear pieces were fit for outdoor dining on cool nights and maxi wool coats were glorified with maximalist prints. One standout outerwear piece was a reversible canvas and denim coat that gave structured juxtaposition to more relaxed looks.

As athleisure continues to have some standing in the fashion industry, particularly during this COVID-19 pandemic with people wanting more comfortable pieces as they continue to work from home, Alice + Olivia’s pivot to a sportier look is a welcome pivot. New York’s creative scene continues to inspire the brand, and the city is still happy to be home to this cheerful consumer-friendly brand.

—Kristopher Fraser

MAXHOSA Spring 2021

September 18, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Celebrating its 10th anniversary, South African-based brand MAXHOSA presented their spring 2021 collection “INGUMANGALISO IMISEBENZI KA THIXO” or “God’s Work is Miraculous.” Designer Laduma Ngxokolo notes that the collection takes its name from a song composed by his grandfather Mike Ngxokolo, a renowned jazz artist, choral music composer, visual artist, actor, and radio presenter. Laduma further explains that the collection is the most colorful and exotic collection he has designed to date and represents a new dawn and excitement about the upcoming South Africa summer season. Laduma states “We have to be hopeful about reaching the light at the end of the tunnel because we have realized that happiness is a new luxury.”

The collection is resplendent with virtually every color of the rainbow. The clothes stay true to the company’s Xhosa roots by incorporating Xhosa beadwork patterns, symbolism, and colors into modern knitwear in zigzag and graphic prints. The spring 2021 collection exemplifies the duality of cultural reverence and contemporary relevance by offering a wide range of clothing from knitted full-length dresses and wrap skirts to shirts and cardigans. The collection also seems to pay homage to other regions of the African diaspora by coupling modern-print designs with traditional Shweshwe prints from South Africa, Aso-oke striped patterns from western Nigeria, and Bogolan mud cloth of Mali.

There is nothing conservative about this collection—everything is lively and full of character. The least daring pieces are dresses and skirts with multicolored horizontal stripes accented by strategically placed MAXHOSA nametapes at the waist, collar, and hemlines. For the more adventurous, there are dresses, short sets, and suits in amazing prints and, of course, more vibrant colors. If you want to make a statement, but don’t want to be too bold, there are a number of options in black and white print that are just as eye-catching as the rest of the line.

MAXHOSA creates not only stunning ready-to-wear pieces, but also makes accessories— hats, hosiery, neckpieces, and scarves, as well as home décor. MAXHOSA AFRICA aims to become Africa’s leading luxury, premium, and mass heritage lifestyle brand. Worn by stars such as Beyonce, Alicia Keys, Swizz Beats, and Raphael Sadiq, Laduma Ngxokolo is well on his way to cementing his brand as a global cultural rally point.

Images courtesy of Arthur Dlamini for MAXHOSA

The collection will be available for purchase at the end of November on MaxHosa.Africa. 

—Carl Ayers

Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2021

September 17, 2020 by Leave a Comment

I don’t believe anything can take the place of a runway show, particularly a good runway show with an exquisite, well-thought out collection. Garments that speak to the fashion designers’ design aesthetic and display the designer’s interpretation of what their consumer wants combined with a brilliant fashion dissertation of what inspired that designer is best presented on a live runway platform.

That said; that expression that so many fashion industry professionals anxiously anticipate is difficult to put into practice this season. Everyone’s health is the most important this season, so the fashion industry is doing the next best thing, digital presentations. Not nearly the same as a live presentation, but what can you do?

For spring 2021 Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by the revolutionary Indian artist Amrita Sher-Gil. “As the 20th century rolled in, India witnessed many changes in its artistic activities. The Bengal school of art produced many artists of repute, some artists in the quest for a change, distanced themselves from the Bengal School.  Amrita Sher-Gil is one such change-maker who revolutionized and challenged the Indian art scene, albeit way ahead of her times.  With her bold and daring approach towards her life and her artistic milieu, [Sher-Gil] charted the path for the future generations of artists who pledged to continue her legacy of change and challenged the norm,” explained Bibhu Mohapatra.  

And to that respect Bihbu Mohapatra infused this spring 2021 collection with Amrita Sher-Gil’s affinity of depicting Indian woman in their natural state of being, whether relaxing at home or socializing with other women. (The only difference between Sher-Gil and Bibhu is that Sher-Gil’s painting are of mostly impoverished East Indian woman while Bibhu collections are made for women with deep pockets.) Still, there is some intersectionality between Mohapatra and Sher-Gil.

As in previous collections, Bibhu Mohapatra demonstrated expertly his acumen with combining silhouettes that on their own are dissimilar. And the fact that these silhouettes are radically opposed to each other when combined adds to some of the charm found in the collections.

There were some noted departures in this spring 2021 collection. One of Bibhu Mohapatra’s signature elements is his use of exquisite embellishments. There was less of that this season, and there were also fewer evening gowns. Perhaps, the COVID-19 pandemic forced Bibhu to focus on more looks that could work for dressy daytime occasions. Or maybe because there were only 26 looks in the collection there was less room for red-carpet gowns.

Images courtesy of JD Urban/Bibhu Mohapatra

Whatever the reason, in this collection Bibhu Mohapatra demonstrated that under duress or straddled with a down economy, his creativity still reigns supreme. And we all the better for it!!

—William S. Gooch

 

Isabel Marant Resort 2021

August 7, 2020 by Leave a Comment

For resort season many designers looked to 1980s silhouettes and design aesthetics for inspiration. In that regard, Isabel Marant followed suit.

In her Resort 2021 collection, Marant instituted looks of padded shoulders and sculptural sleeves which was an unmistakable nod the 80s exaggerated sculptural construction. That said; the 80s was the only inspiration for Marant. Marant looked to mid-20th century modern artists like Miro and Calder for added reference points. “It’s more sophisticated, but not complicated,” explained Marant, citing her ménage of refence points for this collection. There was also a hint of the androgyny, a point of view that often pops up in Marant’s collection.

Marant’s collection are characterized by her signature aesthetic of a mix between boho chic and rock chic. Often you will find a well-tailored jacket combined cropped leather or denim trousers.

Marant’s signature DNA is front and center in this resort collection. There are several well-tailored jackets combined with high-waisted denim-like jodhpurs or stirrup pants or acid-washed skirts.

Surprisingly, there are some formal dresses in this outing. There some dresses in draped velour or fluid Tencel with cut-outs. One only wonders in these trying times where to these very sophisticated dresses.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Perhaps, because of the COVID-19 pandemic, Marant has remained hopeful that in the not-so-distant future consumers will have a proper place or event to wear this resort collection.  “The confinement forced me to be very pragmatic,” she said. “This was not a moment for being superficial.”

Hmm, hope springs eternal!!

—William S. Gooch

Carolina Herrera Resort 2021

July 31, 2020 by Leave a Comment

In case you didn’t know, Wes Gordon is the creative director of Carolina Herrera, a post he has held since Carolina Herrera stepped down from eponymous brand in 2018. Interestingly, Gordon since coming to the brand has brought his brand of fun to Herrera’s signature DNA of elegance and sophistication. And the brand’s Resort 2021 collection is a testament to Gordon’s penchant for elegance mixed with a bit of whimsy.

This Resort 2021 collection was developed while Gordon was on his summer farm in Connecticut and perhaps this tranquil, idyllic locale influenced this collection. What is more evident is that Wes Gordon looked to the classic “Wizard of Oz.” “It took on an extra-special meaning when you think that there really is ‘no place like home,’” says Gordon, as reported in a vanityfair.com article. 

Another source of inspiration was all the protests around racial injustice and police brutality. “When you really read the experiences of Black Americans in any industry, you realize, Wow, we have a lot of work to do,” says Gordon. “And that includes me, that includes Herrera, that includes every white American … We could all do so much better.” Perhaps, that explains the exquisite black model that rocks all the garments in this Resort 2021 collection.

Additionally, Gordon reflected on the 80s style that so embodied Carolina Herrera’s collection in the early 80s. Oversized shoulders, taffeta dresses, tops, and gowns, and over-the-top glamour is back!!

This is a collection for the glamor girl who wants her clothes to express that she owns everything while still being fun and whimsical. And what is more whimsical than polka dots. Gordon know that, so in his won inimical way Gordon lets polka dots make a big statement in this Resort collection.  “The world is serious enough; fashion should let our dreams soar and bring us joy,” says Gordon.

Gordon continues to stay true to Carolina Herrera’s aesthetic by incorporating her signature white shirt into this collection. Gordon’s 80s-inspired crisp white shirt is paired beautifully with denim-like shorts.

There is something in this collection for almost every woman. And though there will not be any red carpets of major events to attend any time soon, Gordon injects a bit of red-carpet glam into this collection with several sequined glitter and shine numbers.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Hey, why not aim for the stars!! You just might get there!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Moschino Resort 2021

July 3, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Diamonds, Daisies, Snowflakes,

That Girl

Chestnuts, Rainbows, Springtime …

Is That Girl

She’s tinsel on a tree …

She’s everything that every girl should be!

                                                       —Opening lyrics from “That Girl” by Earle Hagen and Sam Denoff

Jeremy Scott’s ‘That Girl’ for the Moschino Resort 2021 collection is a glance back to that stylish, carefree woman of the mid-1960s. Think Natalie Wood in “Sex and the Single Girl,” Diahann Carroll in “Julia,” when she wasn’t in her nurse’s garb, Goldie Hawn in “Laugh-In,” and of course Marlo Thomas in “That Girl.”

Like previous Moschino collections with Jeremy Scott at the helm, there is the blatant representation of the Moschino logo emblazed everywhere possible. Though it can be a bit overdone at times, this forceful representation is a part of the brand’s charm. And when you add this in-your-face, bold Moschino imprint with loud polka dots, and bold color, this 2021 resort collection takes on a whimsical, tongue-in-check, charming look back at 60s, cinematic ‘It’ girls.

Additionally, there are smiley faces and peace signs, Italian flag motifs, and the slogan tee—“I don’t speak Italian, but I do speak Moschino”—from Scott’s 2014 debut at the label. “I just wanted to keep it joyful and alive and true to OG fans and new ones,” Scott said.

Scott considers this resort 2021 collection a love letter to Moschino. And this is the first time Scott has used the Italian flag in his design aesthetic.

What also stands out about this 2021 resort collection is the range of garments. Scott has designed something almost every juncture of a women’s day. This resort 2021 collection includes a trench coat, joggers, day dresses, jumpsuits, evening cocktail dresses, even a classic, little black dress. There is everything except an evening gown.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Despite living in tumultuous and uncertain times, Scott has produced a resort collection that is fun, frolicky, and just the right amount of wink wink. Something so badly needed in these times of uncertainty. Even ‘That Girl’ would smile!!

—William S. Gooch

Savannah Miller Bridal Spring 2021

April 19, 2020 by Leave a Comment

For her spring 2021 collection Savannah Miller had two inspirations. First, Savannah Miller looked to 1930s Golden Hollywood icon Carole Lombard.

When one thinks about Carole Lombard the words sophisticated, sensual, and American glamour immediately come to mind. But not necessarily words associated with bridal. It was Savannah Miller’s challenge to figure out to link the image of Carole Lombard with wedding nuptials. “[Carole Lombard’ embodied the feminine and sensual essence of our brands design aesthetic and is a constantly inspiring reference with her playful yet powerful magnetism,” explained Miller.

Miller’s next point of reference was Aurora, the mythical goddess of the dawn. In this spring 2021 collection Savannah Miller attempted to capture the feeling of a new beginning of the dawn of something sacred and beautiful. All relating to the mythical goddess Aurora who brings the beginning of a new day.

These two reference points, though somewhat disparate, were made compatible bedfellows by Miller, evidenced in a collection that possessed simple elegance, freshness and charm. And Miller’s simplicity is never boring, but a simplicity steeped in elegance and majesty.

This season the collection builds on our signature biased cut, effortless silhouettes and includes a combination of multiple different fabrics combined to make innovative textures. Layers of chiffon and Chantilly laces exude femininity and the addition of embellishments built on the archival inspired details give the collection a unique identity.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this spring 2021 collection include the luxurious stretch matte crepe gown featuring a square cut with fully corseted bodice and sporty strap detail, heavyweight stretch crepe, strapless A-line gown with a fully corseted bodice and beautiful ombre pearl tulle overlay, and high square-necked gown with plunging deep low V-back detail accentuating the waist.

William S. Gooch

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