Womenswear — Page 27

Libertine Fall 2020

February 11, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Johnson Hartig’s latest Libertine collection was presented just a few days before Valentine’s Day, but he clearly had love on his mind. Hartig is known for his loud and proud left-of-center politics, and he’s not afraid to admit that a certain political figure is practically burning the ground as far as he’s concerned. And people need to wake up and do something proactive to save the planet.

In between trying to promote a left-of-center agenda, Hartig had found the time to do something that was meant to be a break from all of the horrors of humanity; create maximalist, colorful clothes, many of which featured heart motifs that became a key detail for Libertine’s fall 2020 collection. Despite his deep desire for a better world to happen and immediate change, Hartig sees fashion as a place where one can find peace and tranquility in color, pattern, and design. It is within our clothes that we can be free to dream in technicolor and send a message to the world about who we are.

In a world where everything chaotic and on a downward spiral, Libertine’s customers aren’t down and out. The Libertine customer expresses themselves jubilantly in embroidered capes with multicolored, emblazoned hearts in celebration of life. In the darkest of times, dare to be bold, and don’t let dim your glamor or your glitter-encrusted jacket from shimmering.

Images courtesy of the Krupp Group

As always, the eternal theme at Libertine is more is more. Tailored black suits were embellished with the entire alphabet in sequins, and coats were embellished with gold sequined guitars. A grey twill blazer was embellished with mixed media fabrics for a statement making effect. The collection was playful, pretty, and a much-needed punch to the mundane. No matter the state of the world, a good outfit can help you be your own shining light.

Kristopher Fraser

Hakan Akkaya Fall 2020

February 10, 2020 by admin 1 Comment

Every season, fashion industry professional anxiously anticipate the next great fashion designer/brand. In fact, many can recall when the first encountered Alexander Wang or became familiar with Marc Jacobs’ design aesthetic. Many industry professionals boast that in spite of Christian Siriano’s turn on “Project Runway,” they knew that he had all the goods. Or some contend they were the first in the States to discover the gender fluid phenomena Palomo Spain.

Unfortunately, New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) doesn’t give industry professional many opportunities these days to witness extraordinary talent. However, when a new talent comes on the NYFWS scene, everyone stands up and takes notice.

Though not exactly new on the scene—this is Hakan Akkaya’s third season showing at NYFWS—everyone is taking notice of Turkish designer, Hakan Akkaya. To an overpacked house at Pier 59, Hakan Akkaya demonstrated that he is becoming a fashion force to be reckoned with and that he possesses the skill set and design aesthetic necessary to create a huge fashion career.

Hakan Akkaya’s fall 2020 “Justice” collection was heavy on gender fluidity, punk subculture, and hardware. Interestingly, all of these points of view have been seen before and in lots of incarnations; still, like all brilliant designers, Akkaya understands that the genius of a collection is not necessarily in the innovation but in how all the parts come together. Additionally, combining gender neutrality—particularly when it comes to menswear—with a hardcore punk aesthetic with sadomasochistic overtones is not an easy thing to do. However, Akkaya pulled it off with stylish charm and imagination.

This fall 2020 collection had almost everything that a brand could wish for. It was sexy when it needed to be while not descended into the va va voom category. It was fashion forward while staying accessible. It has charm, wit and humor without being kitschy. And lastly, it was powerful with great force without being oppressive and overbearing.

If there was drawback to this collection, it would be Hakan Akkaya’s penchant for making everything is neutral colors. A splash of bold color would have elevated this fall 2020 collection out of the realm of urban warrior gear, ready to battle the urban terrain with all its dangerous adventures. There are stylish souls who don’t reside in urban jungles. And those stylish creatures might feel a little intimidated by this collection. Then again, powerful fashion statements are not for the mild mannered.

Interestingly, this could be the ideal collection for that stylish warrior that’s ready to revolt against a repressive political regime, gearing up for the revolution. A revolution against oppressive ideals, making your statement about gender equality, freedom of expression, and sexual diversity.

Images courtesy of The Bromley Group

There were many great standouts in this “Amish meets Punk” collection. The most noteworthy were the many man skirts, Akkaya’s white Amish blouse with black pencil skirt with side ruffled embellishments, black long-sleeved fit-and-flare gown with bobby pin embellishments, Amish black slacks with patent-leather lapel vest, white Amish blouse with patent-leather skirt and embellished bustier, and black patent-leather top with matching shorts underneath diaphanous black gown.

—William S. Gooch

Mukzin x Harbin Fall 2020

February 10, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

This has been a somber New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) with a Chinese brand showcasing its wares to a partially empty room amid fears the coronavirus could force Asian labels to cancel their catwalks.

“Mukzin might be the only Chinese brand you will see at this New York Fashion Week,” said an announcer, before introducing the fall 2020 collection of designer Kate Han. The announcer caroused the audience in rousing chant of “Get it China!” before starting the show. Unfortunately, Fashion Reverie reports that some unevenness is always to be expected when you have a designer who marries traditional Japanese tailoring with more modern elements what was produced was a wildly incohesive collection with styling elements that were truly mystifying.

The color story was all over the place. The show began with traditional Chinese floral embroidery on satin pastels and followed by a grey wool suit woven with silver threads matching the silver chain face mask and black lace tights. Immediately followed by a floral sweater and skirt set worn with platform white sneakers. Next there was a dark grey wool coat in a traditional Chinese embroidery paired with turquoise cowboy boots. It just kept getting weirder after that. Many of the garments were spectacular why these outstanding garments were included in the same collection was baffling.

A silk top with bamboo print paired with a high-waisted black skirt was so effortlessly chic consumers would be scrambling for it. Additionally, a traditional printed top and tight skirt was one of the few times the cowboy boots mixed with the Chinese design in a seamless manner.

There were some amazing and beautiful pants suits that melded traditional Chinese silhouettes with Western styling that were sleek and gorgeous. A blue and green tartan trench coat was beautiful but once again what was it doing in THIS collection? There are no words for the neon green muff bedazzled with silver chains paired with a dark floral kimono.

Images courtesy of theguildmagazine.com

Mukzin is one of only a handful of Chinese designers presenting during the NYFWS fall 2020 season. Several brands including Angel Chen and Asai have had to cancel their appearances in Milan and London, respectively. While no mention was made of it, Fashion Reverie can’t help but wonder if Mukzin wasn’t forced to make do with what was on hand? Perhaps as a result of the travel or quarantine restrictions they were unable to get their entire collection out. None of the garments were bad what was confusing was how the garments were related? What story was the story the designer trying to tell?

But given how truly stunning some of the outfits were, Fashion Reverie is happy to keep an eye out in the future for Mukzin’s next collection.

Cameron Rose Grey

Laquan Smith Fall 2020

February 9, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Laquan Smith’s time has arrived. Well, it actually arrived a few seasons back. Still, Smith’s fall 2020 collection solidified his status as an American designer that is a part of the new wave of designers that are rewriting rules and have distinctive voices.

Always known for his ultra-sexy collections, Laquan Smith’s fall 2020 collection did not stray too far from his form-fitting, titillating design aesthetic. In fact, in some respects he increased his in-your-face sexy vixen perspective. However, in this outing Smith added something that was sometimes missing in previous collections, elegance and sophistication.

The Laquan Smith client is not afraid of her sexuality, in fact, she flaunts it. And with Laquan Smith garments, you also need an incredible physique to show off his sex siren ware.

That said, Smith’s fall 2020 collection added another layer to his slaying-with-your-sexiness aesthetic. There were a few pieces in this collection that demonstrated that Smith knows how to play with volume and that he can exercise restraint when he wants to.

In this collection, Laquan Smith ingeniously married off-the-hip pants—some fitted, some baggy—with revealing shirts, top and crop tops. Though not exactly daywear, these combinations—reminiscent of club clothes from the 1970s and 80s—expands Laquan’s collection beyond sexy vixen night wear. This combination of sequined tops and shirts with streetwear pants also gave rise to the notion that Laquan Smith’s customer can be sexy with showing a lot of thigh or in skintight cocktail dresses with low décolletage. She can be an around-the-way-girl with va va voom to spare!!

Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch / gorunway.com

Another advance for Smith this season was his cast a A-list models, in fact, some supermodels. Adding Hilary Rhoda, Elsa Hosk, Daphne Groeneveld, Herieth Paul, Dahely Nunez, Alanna Arrington, Sanne Vloet, Lameka Fox, and Mason McKenrick to any runway elevates a collection.

If there was one drawback to this collection, that drawback would be needing to have a killer body, or close to sexy supreme physique, to wear these clothes. Still, sexy reigns supreme with Laquan. And that is a good thing!!

Keep up the good work, Mr. Smith!!

—William S. Gooch

Tadashi Shoji Fall 2020

February 7, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

What happens when a well-known fashion brand loses its way? It’s hard to say. Sometimes, the brand recovers. A new creative director can set a fashion brand back on track. Sometimes, restructuring the company and focusing on what works can save a brand. Ralph Lauren did that.

Other times the brand begins to fade into memory. That may be the story of Donna Karan, Zac Posen, American Apparel, Charlotte Ronson, The Limited, just to name a few. Still, if that brand was popular and added value to the industry, there are hopes of a resurgence and better market traction.

All that can be said for Tadashi Shoji. Tadashi Shoji still has some market traction and is beloved by female consumers who want luxury at an affordable price, particularly if you are above a size 10. Yet, his fall 2020 collection demonstrated that Shoji may be way out of touch with what the modern woman wants to wear.

Though it has been confirmed that Tadashi Shoji’s inspiration for his fall 2020 collection was a reflection on Mongolian empires of the 13^th and 15^th century, with the exception of a few outstanding pieces in the collection, it would be very difficult to identify Shoji’s reference to that powerful Mongolian reign. For the most part, the fall 2020 collection resembled a walk down memory lane of what Crystal and Alexis Carrington of “Dynasty” fame wore when they donned the padded-shouldered power suits of the mid-1980s and brocaded taffeta gowns of that same era.

That reflection of the past would not have bad if the garments matched up to the glamour and splendor of that era. Unfortunately, this outing was lackluster facsimile thereof. The failure lying mostly in the very inexpensive fabric choices and bad tailoring. Everyone knows that if you are going to use curvy and plus-size models in a fashion show—and there several in this outing—you must never put cheap fabrics on zaftig frames. That is a surefire recipe for disaster.

Additionally, Shoji—though known for his East meets West design aesthetic—did very little to modernize the well-known silhouettes in the collection. So, in essence, this collection looked like a staid homage rather than a reinterpretation of a bygone era.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

There were a few high points in this fall 2020 collection. Shoji’s opening look of skirt beaded in the pattern of Mongolian geometric tiles in turquoise and royal blues was a knockout and the many Afghan coats with brocades interiors and exteriors caused fashion pulses to beat faster.

Tadashi Shoji should be applauded for putting several curvy and plus-size models in his show—it may have been as many as eight. Still, fashion industry professionals long for the Tadashi Shoji of yesteryear where glamour, sophistication, and quality reigned supreme.

—William S. Gooch

Naeem Khan Bridal Fall 2020

October 9, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Naeem Khan loves embellishments. If you consider his ready-to-wear collections, there is always lots of embellishments—a reflection of his cultural heritage and his decades now of designing eveningwear.

That said; with the pressure to always make every ready-to-wear collection more and more consumer friendly, lots of embellishment are not necessarily appealing to modern consumers, particularly those consumers that exist outside of a luxury market. These current ready-to-wear conditions makes the bridal market an excellent opportunity for Naeem Khan to show off his penchant for luxe embellishments.

This opportunity extends to Khan infusing his bridal collection with looks from his ready-to-wear, something that other bridal designers who had ready-to-wear collection used to do. This perspective carried over to Khan’s fall 2020 collection, a collection that was heavy on embellishments and looks that went way beyond traditional bridal looks.

Naeem Khan references the 1970s a lot in his ready-to-wear collections and fashion era pops up a lot in this bridal outing. In only makes sense that Khan would favor the late 70s in that Khan was assistant designer with Halston during that time. Khan’s late 70s reference is evidenced in his use of fringe, halter gowns and jumpsuits and his form-fitting bridal gowns.

Khan gives modern bride complete looks for the entire bridal celebration. There looks extend to the bridal reception, the bridal dinner the day before the wedding, and of course looks for the bridal ceremony. And what is also refreshing about this fall 2020 outing is Khan’s unique skill at elevating bridalwear beyond traditional bridal looks, something Naeem Khan has been implementing for some time.

Images courtesy of Naeem Khan

That said, in this fall 2020 collection Khan really upped the ante with his bridal trajectory. Instead of just a few garments that pushed the proverbial bridal envelope, there were several looks. Bravo Naeem!!

—William S. Gooch

Watters Bridal Fall 2020

October 9, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

When it comes to Bridal Fashion Week, the bridal brand Watters is like a smorgasbord of bridal styles, silhouettes, and fabrications. In addition to their main line, the brand also offers up Wtoo and Willowby by Watters. While Watters has traditionally played bridal’s greatest hits from beautiful lace gowns to floral-embroidered gowns, what stands out most about Watters is the brand’s inclusive scope. Producing three different bridal collections for three different types of brides does facilitate more variety, but Watters is much more than the quantity of its bridal gowns, Watters connects to and implements what the modern is looking for at an affordable price.

This season’s mainline Watters collection was designed with both drama and comfort in mind, and nothing was too form-fitting. The opening look was a strapless A-line gown with a lace bodice and sheer skirt that gave both sex appeal and traditional glamour all at once. In ostentatious Watters style, it was paired with a giant feather hat, as a reminder that Watters isn’t always for the most traditional bride. While their designs are approachable, Watters promote individuality.

Wtoo by Watters had a very Southern Belle aesthetic. The opening dress, named “Dixie,” with details of a sleeveless V-neck with geometric and floral beading set the mood of the collection. The “Hardin” strapless modified sweetheart wedding dress with allover silver beading looked perfect for a young bride from Charleston, South Carolina about to marry her high school sweetheart. The Southern debutantes will know where to go for their dress if they are getting married next year.

Willowby by Watters had a youthful, ephemeral essence, but not without its classic touches. A tulle wedding dress with off-the-shoulder sleeves was on trend, featuring the expected lace appliqués. The collection was also accompanied by a sheer lace wedding dress, with a slip, long-sleeves, and a high-neckline for that bride looking for a mix between sexy and demure.

Photos courtesy of Watters

In their continued efforts toward diversity and inclusion, Watters also featured several plus-size models. The plus-size market is a $20 billion opportunity. Diversity continues to be the brand’s mother of invention.

Kristopher Fraser

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are familiar with Ines Di Santo you are aware that her bridal runways shows are some of the most coveted shows of New York International Bridal Week. And there is a very good reason for that!!

Ines Di Santo does luxury bridalwear better than anyone. And her collections are seen through the less of a fashion-forward sensibility that always appealing to modern brides and the bridal industry. However, as a consumer you need some very deep pockets if you are in the market for an Ines Di Santo bridal garment.

For the fall 2020 bridal season, Ines Di Santo was inspired by the Impressionist Art movement. Di Santo to capture how the Impressionist painters the transformation of color and texture and how these artists through their work also demonstrated the shifting effect of light and the magic of airy transparency.

This fall 2020 bridal outing contained a huge variety of bridal silhouettes, styles, and fabrications. And there was something in this collection for every type of bride and bridal occasion. From the bridal reception to the day-before bridal dinner to the actual nuptial day, Ines di Santo left no stone unturned. And if you are a very hip, modern bride that is repelled by traditional bridal silhouettes like trumpet gowns, ballgowns, mermaid gowns or fit and flare, Di Santo strategically placed some embellished bridal cocktail dresses, and embellished corset leotard with detachable train and printed cocktail dresses and gowns.

That said; what stood most about this collection was Di Santo’s mastery of texture, fabrication matched with a modern, youthful sensibility. In this respect, Di Santo is unmatched in her mastery of these elements, not only evolving, but is also continuously expanding.

Still, Di Santo’s bridal masterpieces are for the well-heeled bridal market. It would be great if there was a diffusion line of these great fashion pieces of work that was accessible to consumers of lesser means. Everyone deserves a dose of Ines Di Santo.

Photos courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this fall 2020 bridal collection–and there were so many that is was hard to choose–include the brand’s illusion cowl neck sheath with beaded accent straps and low back embroidered lingerie bodice A-line gown textured hem, embroidered sleeveless mini with feathers and textured beading with detachable bow train and streamers, strapless sheath gown with asymmetrical couture bow with 3-dimesional hand-painted and feathered butterflies, and embellished sleeveless high neck mini with chandelier beading and 3D flowers.

William S. Gooch

Berta Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Young American woman are conditioned to believe in their ‘happily ever,’ a.k.a. your wedding day. This is the occasion that will bring them very close to becoming a fairy princess. This fairy princess bride ideal comes into full-on displays of glamour, embezzlements, lace, and sequins during the wedding ceremony. For the bride walking down the aisle, too much is never enough.

Berta continues to fulfill their customers fairytale needs with their fall 2020 collection featuring an abundance of lace, gauze, and sparkle. With roots in Israel, Berta also caters heavily to that customer who want the grand ballgowns and embellishments. The brand also continues to build on the success of their best sellers, like their trumpet gowns, which are found in top American department stores, bridal boutiques, and notable vendors. Trumpet gown silhouettes continue to be a trademark of Berta’s wedding gowns, giving the bride that form-fitting shape at the top with an elegant flare at the bottom.

In the past, tulle embroidered sleeves had been trademarks of Berta’s collection, but this season designer Berta Balilti was encouraging brides to go sleeveless and show a lot more skin with halter-top silhouette bodices. Many modern brides today want to show more skin, taking a less conservative approach to the bridal gown.

Photos courtesy of CLD PR

In a bid to get a little edgier with their bridal offerings, Berta created a sequined minidress with a crystal neckline and straps. Unfortunately, this sequined minidress looked out of place among Berta’s more classic offerings. The sequined minidress as a pre-bridal party or wedding-after dress could work, so from a business perspective the inclusion of this dress made sense.

For as much craftsmanship that goes into Berta’s gowns between the hand-stitched lace and embroidery to getting the silhouettes just right, there is a magical effortless to this fall 2020 collection. And if all the effort and craftmanship makes the bride feel like a dreamy fairy princess, then all the work is worth it.

— Kristopher Fraser

Inbal Dror Bridal Fall 2020

October 8, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are familiar with Inbal Dror than you are aware that her bridal gowns are a compilation of fashion-forward sensibility, sexiness and sensuality, and a modern projection toward couture. Inbal Dror’s bridal collections are not necessarily for that modern bride who is looking for a traditional gown—although she might be able to find something that fits that ilk. Inbal Dror’s bridal collection are for that bride that is confident in her body and not afraid to push boundaries. This fall 2020 bridal collection is in that vein.

For fall 2020 Inbal Dror by the glow that a modern bride has on her wedding day. Inbal Dror expresses this glow in a halo—visible or invisible. “… the bride glows on her wedding day with a halo, making her the center of a spiritual event. She is a symbol of devotion and tradition. Her dress reflects the eternal feelings she emanates and magical look—it is a fashion icon …,” explains Inbal Dror.

With a variety of halos adorning the heads of the bridal models, this bridal collection consisted mostly of very sheer dresses in a variety of fabrications. True to the brand’s DNA there was a lot of sexy and revealing bridal gowns from tea dresses to fit and flare to gowns with very high slits. Still, Inbal Dror continued her predilection for using lots of embellishments from silver, pearl and 3D appliques, mirror embroidery, and 3D floral accents.

If there was one departure in this outing, it was the transparency and sheerness of the bridal gowns. Perhaps, Inbal Dror adopted this projection because it stayed on the theme of bridal heavenly glow, allowing that glow to shine through the diaphanous garments. In that respect, this collection looked a lot like a bridal collection one would experience with a bridal brand like BERTA.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Standouts in this collection includes the nude deep V point d’esprit gown with 3d floral shoulder accents, tulle one shoulder asymmetric cape over strapless mini with silver, pearl and 3D appliques, deep V tea-length drew with mirror embroidery and silver bows, long-sleeve ivory stretch chiffon gown with silver-beaded bodice, and nude tulle cape sleeve sheath with silver beading and thigh-high slit.

—William S. Gooch