Womenswear — Page 23

Adam Lippes Fall 2021

February 22, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Since the COVID-19 pandemic hit, fashion designer Adam Lippes has followed his customers’ cue and delivered clothes that are above comfortable and feminine. In an October 13, 2020 interview with Nicole Phelps for www.vogue.com, Lippes cited his new touchstones as “refinement, comfort, luxury and ease.”

The big 1980s’ pussycat bow from the pre-fall 2021 collection took center stage for fall 2021. The fun poppy print he designed with editorial florist Putnam & Putnam reeked of optimism and looked great as a separate and as a dress. The brilliant red showed up again as a quilted red leather jacket with relaxed matching trousers that are the perfect solution between leggings and rigorously tailored trousers. As for skirts and dresses, the red and white striped knit skirt and dress with a ruffle hem strike the right balance of ease and refinement.

Although color is certainly a mood elevator, Lippes is shrewd enough to recognize that women still need great basics to mix with colorful prints and pieces. There’s a sharp khaki trench coat and an oversized white gnarled knit turtleneck that’s right on point and can be dressed-up or down as the occasion requires. His long white coat shares the comfort Norma Kamali’s iconic “cocoon coat” has and looks comfortable enough to sleep in.

Images courtesy of runway360.com

It is unlikely women will be eager to embrace the suits they put away a year ago, but they may take to Lippes’s slouchy black pant suit and tweed turtleneck and long skirt set. We applaud this designer for delivering a collection that is comfortable but most definitely not “basic.”

—Vivian Kelly

Negris LeBrum Fall 2021

February 22, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

One of the advantages of being a fashion editor is observing a fashion designer/brand evolve and grow over time. And though for the past two seasons New York Fashion Week (NYFW) and many global fashion weeks have adopted a virtual platform due to the COVID-19 pandemic, there is still opportunity to witness the growth of some fashion brands.

Negris LeBrum is one such brand. When I first attended Negris LeBrum’s runway shows during NYFW, I noticed that though the garments were well made, the brand was bogged down in parochialism with very little innovation or ingenuity. Don’t be mistaken, there is a market for those kinds of garments, but presenting a collection of garments that don’t grab your attention can be a wonk wonk moment during NYFW. That design aesthetic has now pivoted, in a good way.

Negris LeBrum creative director Travis Hamilton chose to film the video for his fall 2021 collection in his hometown of Houston, Texas, stage in a public park. Inspired by his Louisiana bayou roots, Hamilton sought to bring a New York City sophistication to the South. “I wanted to bring a piece of NY Fashion Week to the South this season, as I may not get the opportunity to show outside of NYC again for some time. I really feel these times are right for my brand in so many ways. I have always worked in what I refer to as a ‘conservative sexy’ aesthetic, allowing the woman who wears my collection to define the final feeling of the ensemble. The heart and soul of the Negris LeBrum brand is and will always be Louisiana, but my studio and current home are in Houston, so bringing the two together for [fall] 2021 is like a fashionable homecoming for me,” explained Hamilton.

In bringing a Big Apple sophistication to a more laidback location, Hamilton did modify that design aesthetic to the southern consumer who may not be aggressively pounding the pavement or rushing from one appointment to the next. This fall 2021collection is for the woman who wants sophistication and style on her own terms. And this specific point of view embraces a design aesthetic that is more inclusive in terms of age demographic, size, and culture.

And in that respect, Travis Hamilton is doing something that reflects the changing tide in the fashion and retail industries. One thing that this health pandemic is teaching us is that there are valuable fashion markets beyond crowded urban cities. Hamilton is tapping in the that with this collection. Projecting that it possible to have great style and panache while living outside of a metropolis.

Standout looks in this collection include the faux leopard coat with thin black belt, sporty varsity sweater with polka dot blouse over tweed skirt, and grey wrap metallic jumpsuit with V-neck. And the faux black leather and faux leopard coat over black suit is to die for.

Images courtesy of VERY New York

Keep evolving and keep up the good work!!

William S. Gooch

Frederick Anderson Fall 2021

February 22, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

A week before his show, Frederick Anderson shared a preview sketch and a few words about the collection with Fashion Reverie. He spoke of his lifelong love affair with New York City which started when he was 15, spending summers there to study dance at the Joffrey Ballet. Ever since then, the Big Apple has served as a source of inspiration, most especially for this latest collection.

Anderson’s fall 2021 show is one of hope and rebirth for the latter half of 2021. He references different periods of what fashion looked like through the decades he’s lived in New York, from the Seventies to the present day. The background for the runway show/film was shot in a warehouse that looked like the ones so many young creatives and college students flocked to in the Eighties, attracted by the cheap rents.

The clothes themselves are light and airy, pieces that allow for movement as we begin to reenergize and move towards increased socialization and activities post-pandemic. Fabrics ranged for slinky satins, luxurious tweeds, lame, and lots of delicate hand-crocheted sweaters and dresses. Batwing sleeves, cowl necks, gaucho pants, a baby doll top, and the powder blue eyeshadow the models wore harkened back to the1970s. The 1980s were referenced with black and white tweeds reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s redo of Chanel’s traditional tweed suits which he perfected in 1992. Nineties references came in the form of a lame pantsuit and lace and crochet dusters.

Images courtesy of runway360.com

Anderson brought the collection to the present, recognizing that we want something more, as we prepare to venture out, but still crave the comfort the sweats we’ve been cocooning in for the past year. He showed an easy cobalt satin dress and a pantsuit that work for going out or staying in. Strongest in show were the delicate crochet pieces, especially #17, the horizontal multi-colored long dress and #4, a cream camel and gray poncho trimmed in black that’s a perfect fall transition piece. All in all, Anderson’s latest collection is a fitting tribute to the city he loves.

—Vivian Kelly

APOTTS Fall 2021

February 21, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Aaron Potts embodies the word “inclusion.” With his eponymous brand APOTTS, he aims to create clothes that are unisex, versatile, modern, and trans-seasonal for all genders, sizes, and ages. Potts states that real style is about spirit, not about physical differences, or trends, yet he smartly picks up on his pre-fall 2020 trends and carries it over to his fall 2021 collection.

For fall 2021, APOTTS presents a tightly edited, cohesive collection meant to effortlessly weave into your existing wardrobe. Nothing stands out as gaudy or intimidating, but rather warm, inviting, and familiar, but new. The video of this collection, cast with Alvin Ailey dancers, is a wonderful dance of shape and silhouette, from voluminous dresses with billowing sleeves and oversized coats, to wide leg pants and shapeshifting tunics. For this collection, proportions are a key element. Most of the designs keep you well covered, without being swallowed in fabric. Here, volume is both comfort and freedom.

Every wardrobe starts with black, but there is nothing basic about it in this collection. The all-black looks will carry you throughout the season. The floor-length black crinoline skirt is fun and light enough for warm weather but can give volume under a long dress when the temps dip. The oversized tunic and pants let you layer up underneath, if need be, but make a form-filling, but not boxy silhouette on their own.

Potts proves that grey does not have to be somber, but can be fun. You can feel snug at home in the grey cocoon jumpsuit or hit the streets in a grey checked coat. There is a loose-fitting top and calf-length skirt in the same checkered pattern. If you gravitate toward oversized silhouettes, there’s a wonderful almost duster-length grey coat with an exaggerated collar.

The infusion of yellow in this collection can brighten any mood. In creating this collection, Potts described a need for optimism and creativity. He stated, “The light at the end of the tunnel isn’t cliché. It’s necessary.” The yellow plaid mohair coat is almost a hybrid between a Chesterfield and a peacoat. The bold pattern with subdued vibrancy makes this, alongside the similarly patterned pant, the stand out of the collection. If you want to be adventurous with this pattern, there is also a seemingly twelve-foot long matching scarf with detachable panels.

The most luminescent garments are the lemon-yellow items—the zip-ripped sweater, pants, and overcoat. The leather pant and coat with silver lining should make an appearance in a young pop stars music video.

Images courtesy of 360runway.com

The range of this collection demonstrates that Potts had a varied consumer base in mind. There are items that are more creative, and items that are more reserved. No matter what purchases you make, the collection will grow with you through the years furthering the brands aim to create quality, fresh, thoughtful, and effortless dressing options.

—Carl Ayers

Kimberly Goldson Fall 2021

February 20, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Kimberly Goldson is a master of wowing the consumer with a tightly edited, impeccably tailored, concise collection. Her collections rarely top more than 15 items. The lesson here is that less is more.

For fall 2021, she is once again giving the customer clean, distinct creations without overwhelming them. Goldson concentrated her focus on three prints and two solid colors that allows you to easily mix and match pieces from this collection amongst themselves or with items already within your wardrobe.

Her “Camp” print, a floral design atop a white backdrop and overlaid with tribal-style black circles, is featured on a thigh length, open shawl-collared jacket, joggers, and a cold-shoulder bralette. The “Incognito” print, another circular overlay atop a pale blue canvas, is used for a 7-button, barrel sleeved, calf-length tunic and a loose wide-legged pant option. The final print, called “Stealth,” consists of black and white color blocking, separated by a thin café au lait stripe beneath a stencil in Madagascar red. This print comes in the most diverse garment options of a knee-length, sleeveless dress with a ruffled hem, relaxed high waist cropped pants, and a knee-length bomber jacket.

If you prefer solids over prints, there is a one shoulder tee shirt dress with asymmetrical button details and matching wide leg pants in a soft satin blue-gray color. But the stand out of the collection is the ivory baby doll dress. It has a daringly high front hemline, but the real flair is in the cropped exaggerated Juliette sleeves which are gathered and pinned in a way reminiscent of a calla lily.

Images courtesy of 360runway.com

This collection, though truncated, is positioned for the confident women with a well-appointed viewpoint of her style identity. She needn’t worry about grand embellishments, for she knows that fabric, cut, and fit are the best design details a garment can have.

—Carl Ayers

Libertine Fall 2021

February 20, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Johnson Hartig, Libertine’s creative director, is a man known for sequins, sparkle, and maximalism. Even a global pandemic and decreased customer spending couldn’t rain on his bedazzled, embellished, and appliquéd parade as the brand looks to celebrate its 30^th anniversary. Rather than skew to more minimalist or athleisure creations, like many of his colleagues have this season, Hartig went over-the-top in full force.

Inspired by the baroque era, made evident by the backdrop used in this virtual presentation, Johnson Hartig implements a modern distillation on baroque by borrowing and updating embellishments and gold leaf often found in baroque art and architecture. This point of view is risky and could look like a tacky costume flashback, not so in this collection. Johnson Hartig ingeniously approached the baroque aesthetic with a modern point of view that made this collection both vintage and innovative at the same time.

Libertine’s opening look for their virtual runway show, shown via the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) Runway360 online platform, featured a giant bow made up of layers of tulle and adorned with crystals. It was quite the way to tell someone “heads up, lots of ostentatious fashion coming through.” This was followed by a mixed-media pattern dress paired with a mixed-media patterned, oversized floppy hat and a multi-patterned black dress.

Libertine continues to be that brand that encourages us to wear pattern on pattern, because the strength of power clashing should never be underestimated. A classic green and red plaid shirt was the underlayer for a literally gold-leafed black blazer look for your less than classic tailored suiting. It was perhaps the most high fashion the wooded farm boy aesthetic is ever going to get. Leave it up to Hartig to not only go beyond the grain, but potentially reinvent it.

Images courtesy of runway360.com

While Hartig is known for tons of colors, patterns, and embellishments, something about this season was a bit different. This time, the approach felt more like a symbol of positivity, that, even in one of humanity’s darkest and difficult hours, fashion and creation give us something to look forward to. When all hope is lost, live out loud, even with your fashion choices, for tomorrow will hopefully bring bluer skiers and even bolder outfits. Hartig dared us to dream again, and as we attempt to emerge from a pandemic world, dreams will hopefully come true.

—Kristopher Fraser

Snow Xue Gao Fall 2021

February 20, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

With an eye for consumer needs, a unique yet growing aesthetic and inspiration drawn from fairy tales and Netflix, Snow Xue Gao has presented another excellent collection. Adding vitality this season is images of tigers, which was pulled, Gao says, from a Chinese children’s song, which also provided the collection’s title, “Women Are Tigers.” Examining the contrast between the powerful and the fragile, the feminine and masculine, is the focus of this fall 2021 collection, best demonstrated in Gao’s skillful tailoring and keen eye.

Like a lot of consumers, isolated by the colder than usual winter and the health pandemic, Gao fell in love with the Netflix series “Bridgerton” and was inspired by the show for this collection, incorporating square necklines on princess-line corset tops with 19th-century design touches. Gao told Vogue, “It’s interesting to see that no matter what time period, no matter which country, which region, what color, there’s always a group of women that represent strong power in a feminine way”.

It will be fascinating to see how consumers respond to the deconstructed suits. It’s going to be a while before offices reopen and consider making work from home permanent. This digital presentation shows some of the limits of not being able to view the collection in person. Are these suits easy to wear? How do they move? With multiple garment ties, is it possible to get the garments off easily without assistance?

Responding to consumers requests for more casual offerings, Gao included several easy-to-wear dresses in both silk and cotton. One silk dress featured a striking silkscreened tiger in black. Several cotton dresses had removable sleeves that tied around the neck in contrasting patterns that should prove to be popular among millennials with their bright colors and distinctive silhouettes.

One item that really misses the mark were the tops with ruffled bottoms. They made even the pencil-thin models look thick-waisted. Strangely, these tops were paired with Capri-length wide pants that were very unflattering.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Gao has found a way to reimagine her popular coats. In addition to multi-colored piping, the jackets are now reversible, presenting consumers with even more options. No one combines completely different prints as elegantly as Gao and with this collection she demonstrates an eye for editing and focusing her vision.

With so many designers boxing themselves into a corner, Gao continues to evolve by experimenting with her signature aesthetics and listening to consumers. This bodes well for the future of her company.

Cameron Grey Rose

Collina Strada Fall 2021

February 20, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Being transported into the creative mind of Hillary Taymour, Collina Strada’s founder and designer, is an experience unlike any other. Collina Strada’s fall 2021 presentation grabs you by the hand and brings you to Collina Land, a wild meadow-frolicking, floral explosion of an experience that is both alluring and slightly repelling due to the models’ beautifully distorted movements that induce a fever dream. This world is one where everyone fits in because there is no requirement to fit in. Like the animals (collina-mals) that models freely morph into, all are as beautiful as they are distinct and inspire a sense of freedom that society hopes to experience again soon.

This evocative display is not unexpected for Collina Strada as the brand’s attitude is just as important as the fashion that complements it; a loud and expressive personality is made even louder with innovative trimmings and accessories in an unexpected take on classic pieces. The Collina Strada voice is even more distinct as the floral mesh layers unfold and reveal a powerful platform for social awareness.

“Collina-mals,” is a song by Angel Emoji, samples from Lit’s “My Own Worst Enemy.” The lyrics, “Can we frolic in the meadows again?” are clearly a reference to the pandemic and take us through a head to toe earth-toned floral opening look modeled by Aaron Philip, the first Black transgender differently abled model to be represented by a major agency. Philip soon amusingly morphs into a frog in Hillary Taymour’s signature humor and in collaboration with Animorphs. The choice of model immediately points to the inclusivity of this brand, and the metamorphosis speaks of the need for change in our society to a perspective in which all are valued for who they are as individuals. Also, Taymour, not one to waste anything, uses this opportunity to showcase endangered animals such as the Sifaka of Madagascar.

The collection screams exuberant frivolity with its layers of riotous prints of florals, chevrons, plaid, hand painted fruits, and signature loops. Upcycled fabrics are combined in head to toe styles from rhinestone hair clips, bow cloth masks, and an earring shaped as a praying mantis holding a strawberry to turquoise and orange gardening gloves, all the way down to ruffle fabric soles. One standout silhouette is an atypical bodysuit with V-shaped seams forming a voluminous hip. Textures and pastel colors are reminiscent of previous Collina Strada collections, but Taymour takes even more advantage of the digital platform with this collection.

Images courtesy of Collina Strada

Angel Emoji asks, “if you could be an animal, what do you think you’d be?” The answer would be a resounding, “any Collina-mal!”

— Tessa Swantek

Dirty Pineapple Fall 2021

February 19, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Since its establishment, Shanghai-based Dirty Pineapple, has fused vintage with futurism, masculine with feminine silhouettes, and streetwear with high fashion by contrast and collision between prints and patterns. “Local Resort,” the fall 2021 collection, projects this contrast between a pandemic restricting us to our local scene and the freedom of a resort getaway. The result is a surrealistic photo diary that portrays individuality and nuances of home life against metropolis influences.

The digital collection opens with a visual motif of fruits on color-blocked resort stripes that reference the Shanghai street scene; an environment of sweeping neon lights and history that lay the background for the intimate lives of locals such as fruit sellers. The first vignette is reminiscent of a silent film with a theatrical soundtrack playing as time lapses. Interior design is just as impactful as the fashion pieces. Vintage floral wallpaper, a cream rotary phone, silk and lace blossoming tablecloths, a retro fan with a pop of modern purple, all form a surrealistic backdrop to the cacophony of the styles themselves. The futuristic print of the carpet translates to the fabric of other styles, and the vintage atmosphere is a great foil for the Dirty Pineapple aesthetic.

Models that speak to gender neutrality look tense; a woman in grape-colored purple tights, a graphic skirt, and a yellow cashmere sweater with sunglasses strung on a pearl chain is captured cooling herself off. In the same wild monotony, a man in a kiwi green suit with burgundy-colored sleeves stiffly jumps on the resort bed to entertain himself in an evocative display of many of our quarantined lives.

Modern music plays into blue and green hued screens reflecting onto the models’ leather coats, wool graphic sweaters, and quilted vests. Blue clouded skies reflect onto the interior walls initiating a free-spirited tone that is constrained by the inner borders of the hotel. The final look is a stunning aqua blue striped suit jacket printed with the color-blocked fruit motif paired with relaxed aqua trousers. The model playfully walks next to locals as if the street is the runway and locals are part of the show, signaling a final unrestrained spirit.

In true Dirty Pineapple form, hardware and styling offers an innovative approach to streetwear. Models sport punk chains and spikes as well as green nail polish with gold polka dots. Basics are mixed with novel prints, textures, and details. A mustard corduroy pant features slits of middle seam lines that embrace Dirty Pineapple’s take on a vintage fabric.

All images courtesy of runway360.cfda.com

Fashion is about the feeling clothing provides, the future they portray, and the stereotypes they reveal and break. Dirty Pineapple continues to appeal to young and creative consumers on the edge of whatever comes next.

—Tessa Swantek

Thalé Blanc’s Spring 2021 Dream Collection

February 19, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Thalé Blanc was a bright example of which the film that introduced the collection actually added richness and a depth of understanding about the clothes shown. Better still, designer Deborah Sawaf appeared and narrated, explaining what inspired her. The film was shot in her home, making the collection all the more personal.

Prior to New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Sawaf spoke to Fashion Reverie about how she believes women are looking to add to their existing collections and want to be able to buy the pieces they see at a show right away, not six months from viewing them. Now, she says, “is a time to dream a little … Don’t be afraid to dream, even though it might sound silly and naïve… and have some courage to take a leap.”

Wardrobe wise, “dreaming a little bit” translates to a continuation of her best-selling Boston coat, which also comes in a shorter car-length. The spring version comes in a whimsical camouflage print with a chartreuse bottom. Certain to become wardrobe basics are a pair of khaki gaucho pants and an easy sleeveless dark denim dress both trimmed in white fringe. There’s also her signature open-sleeve top with grommet detailing that can be worn with shorts or longer pants, depending on the occasion and the temperature outside. The tops appeal to her LA-Euro customers who appreciate the Valentino “rock stud” vibe. The khaki drawstring top is an elegant take on the classic windbreaker and can be dressed up or down. Sawaf is not one to be dictated by trends, but she showed her spin on fuchsia, one of 2021’s colors. Her version was a jumpsuit with sexy slits up to the knee.

Sawaf started in the fashion business by designing luxury handbags for Gianfranco Ferré, and Roberto Cavalli. Today, her made in Italy bags continue to be an important part of the overall collection and are listed as individual looks. The designer continues to update her best-selling scalloped “Audrey” bag, that’s large enough for being out and about all-day, as we will be in the coming months. The new bags come in pretty shell pink and cream colors embellished with studs for a little rock n’ roll edge as well as in crocodile and flashy metallics. The Swarovski crystal and resin jewelry dress-up the core pieces she proposes for spring.