Front Row — Page 27

Hakan Akkaya Fall 2020

February 10, 2020 by admin 1 Comment

Every season, fashion industry professional anxiously anticipate the next great fashion designer/brand. In fact, many can recall when the first encountered Alexander Wang or became familiar with Marc Jacobs’ design aesthetic. Many industry professionals boast that in spite of Christian Siriano’s turn on “Project Runway,” they knew that he had all the goods. Or some contend they were the first in the States to discover the gender fluid phenomena Palomo Spain.

Unfortunately, New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) doesn’t give industry professional many opportunities these days to witness extraordinary talent. However, when a new talent comes on the NYFWS scene, everyone stands up and takes notice.

Though not exactly new on the scene—this is Hakan Akkaya’s third season showing at NYFWS—everyone is taking notice of Turkish designer, Hakan Akkaya. To an overpacked house at Pier 59, Hakan Akkaya demonstrated that he is becoming a fashion force to be reckoned with and that he possesses the skill set and design aesthetic necessary to create a huge fashion career.

Hakan Akkaya’s fall 2020 “Justice” collection was heavy on gender fluidity, punk subculture, and hardware. Interestingly, all of these points of view have been seen before and in lots of incarnations; still, like all brilliant designers, Akkaya understands that the genius of a collection is not necessarily in the innovation but in how all the parts come together. Additionally, combining gender neutrality—particularly when it comes to menswear—with a hardcore punk aesthetic with sadomasochistic overtones is not an easy thing to do. However, Akkaya pulled it off with stylish charm and imagination.

This fall 2020 collection had almost everything that a brand could wish for. It was sexy when it needed to be while not descended into the va va voom category. It was fashion forward while staying accessible. It has charm, wit and humor without being kitschy. And lastly, it was powerful with great force without being oppressive and overbearing.

If there was drawback to this collection, it would be Hakan Akkaya’s penchant for making everything is neutral colors. A splash of bold color would have elevated this fall 2020 collection out of the realm of urban warrior gear, ready to battle the urban terrain with all its dangerous adventures. There are stylish souls who don’t reside in urban jungles. And those stylish creatures might feel a little intimidated by this collection. Then again, powerful fashion statements are not for the mild mannered.

Interestingly, this could be the ideal collection for that stylish warrior that’s ready to revolt against a repressive political regime, gearing up for the revolution. A revolution against oppressive ideals, making your statement about gender equality, freedom of expression, and sexual diversity.

Images courtesy of The Bromley Group

There were many great standouts in this “Amish meets Punk” collection. The most noteworthy were the many man skirts, Akkaya’s white Amish blouse with black pencil skirt with side ruffled embellishments, black long-sleeved fit-and-flare gown with bobby pin embellishments, Amish black slacks with patent-leather lapel vest, white Amish blouse with patent-leather skirt and embellished bustier, and black patent-leather top with matching shorts underneath diaphanous black gown.

—William S. Gooch

Mukzin x Harbin Fall 2020

February 10, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

This has been a somber New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) with a Chinese brand showcasing its wares to a partially empty room amid fears the coronavirus could force Asian labels to cancel their catwalks.

“Mukzin might be the only Chinese brand you will see at this New York Fashion Week,” said an announcer, before introducing the fall 2020 collection of designer Kate Han. The announcer caroused the audience in rousing chant of “Get it China!” before starting the show. Unfortunately, Fashion Reverie reports that some unevenness is always to be expected when you have a designer who marries traditional Japanese tailoring with more modern elements what was produced was a wildly incohesive collection with styling elements that were truly mystifying.

The color story was all over the place. The show began with traditional Chinese floral embroidery on satin pastels and followed by a grey wool suit woven with silver threads matching the silver chain face mask and black lace tights. Immediately followed by a floral sweater and skirt set worn with platform white sneakers. Next there was a dark grey wool coat in a traditional Chinese embroidery paired with turquoise cowboy boots. It just kept getting weirder after that. Many of the garments were spectacular why these outstanding garments were included in the same collection was baffling.

A silk top with bamboo print paired with a high-waisted black skirt was so effortlessly chic consumers would be scrambling for it. Additionally, a traditional printed top and tight skirt was one of the few times the cowboy boots mixed with the Chinese design in a seamless manner.

There were some amazing and beautiful pants suits that melded traditional Chinese silhouettes with Western styling that were sleek and gorgeous. A blue and green tartan trench coat was beautiful but once again what was it doing in THIS collection? There are no words for the neon green muff bedazzled with silver chains paired with a dark floral kimono.

Images courtesy of theguildmagazine.com

Mukzin is one of only a handful of Chinese designers presenting during the NYFWS fall 2020 season. Several brands including Angel Chen and Asai have had to cancel their appearances in Milan and London, respectively. While no mention was made of it, Fashion Reverie can’t help but wonder if Mukzin wasn’t forced to make do with what was on hand? Perhaps as a result of the travel or quarantine restrictions they were unable to get their entire collection out. None of the garments were bad what was confusing was how the garments were related? What story was the story the designer trying to tell?

But given how truly stunning some of the outfits were, Fashion Reverie is happy to keep an eye out in the future for Mukzin’s next collection.

Cameron Rose Grey

Laquan Smith Fall 2020

February 9, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Laquan Smith’s time has arrived. Well, it actually arrived a few seasons back. Still, Smith’s fall 2020 collection solidified his status as an American designer that is a part of the new wave of designers that are rewriting rules and have distinctive voices.

Always known for his ultra-sexy collections, Laquan Smith’s fall 2020 collection did not stray too far from his form-fitting, titillating design aesthetic. In fact, in some respects he increased his in-your-face sexy vixen perspective. However, in this outing Smith added something that was sometimes missing in previous collections, elegance and sophistication.

The Laquan Smith client is not afraid of her sexuality, in fact, she flaunts it. And with Laquan Smith garments, you also need an incredible physique to show off his sex siren ware.

That said, Smith’s fall 2020 collection added another layer to his slaying-with-your-sexiness aesthetic. There were a few pieces in this collection that demonstrated that Smith knows how to play with volume and that he can exercise restraint when he wants to.

In this collection, Laquan Smith ingeniously married off-the-hip pants—some fitted, some baggy—with revealing shirts, top and crop tops. Though not exactly daywear, these combinations—reminiscent of club clothes from the 1970s and 80s—expands Laquan’s collection beyond sexy vixen night wear. This combination of sequined tops and shirts with streetwear pants also gave rise to the notion that Laquan Smith’s customer can be sexy with showing a lot of thigh or in skintight cocktail dresses with low décolletage. She can be an around-the-way-girl with va va voom to spare!!

Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch / gorunway.com

Another advance for Smith this season was his cast a A-list models, in fact, some supermodels. Adding Hilary Rhoda, Elsa Hosk, Daphne Groeneveld, Herieth Paul, Dahely Nunez, Alanna Arrington, Sanne Vloet, Lameka Fox, and Mason McKenrick to any runway elevates a collection.

If there was one drawback to this collection, that drawback would be needing to have a killer body, or close to sexy supreme physique, to wear these clothes. Still, sexy reigns supreme with Laquan. And that is a good thing!!

Keep up the good work, Mr. Smith!!

—William S. Gooch

Tadashi Shoji Fall 2020

February 7, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

What happens when a well-known fashion brand loses its way? It’s hard to say. Sometimes, the brand recovers. A new creative director can set a fashion brand back on track. Sometimes, restructuring the company and focusing on what works can save a brand. Ralph Lauren did that.

Other times the brand begins to fade into memory. That may be the story of Donna Karan, Zac Posen, American Apparel, Charlotte Ronson, The Limited, just to name a few. Still, if that brand was popular and added value to the industry, there are hopes of a resurgence and better market traction.

All that can be said for Tadashi Shoji. Tadashi Shoji still has some market traction and is beloved by female consumers who want luxury at an affordable price, particularly if you are above a size 10. Yet, his fall 2020 collection demonstrated that Shoji may be way out of touch with what the modern woman wants to wear.

Though it has been confirmed that Tadashi Shoji’s inspiration for his fall 2020 collection was a reflection on Mongolian empires of the 13^th and 15^th century, with the exception of a few outstanding pieces in the collection, it would be very difficult to identify Shoji’s reference to that powerful Mongolian reign. For the most part, the fall 2020 collection resembled a walk down memory lane of what Crystal and Alexis Carrington of “Dynasty” fame wore when they donned the padded-shouldered power suits of the mid-1980s and brocaded taffeta gowns of that same era.

That reflection of the past would not have bad if the garments matched up to the glamour and splendor of that era. Unfortunately, this outing was lackluster facsimile thereof. The failure lying mostly in the very inexpensive fabric choices and bad tailoring. Everyone knows that if you are going to use curvy and plus-size models in a fashion show—and there several in this outing—you must never put cheap fabrics on zaftig frames. That is a surefire recipe for disaster.

Additionally, Shoji—though known for his East meets West design aesthetic—did very little to modernize the well-known silhouettes in the collection. So, in essence, this collection looked like a staid homage rather than a reinterpretation of a bygone era.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

There were a few high points in this fall 2020 collection. Shoji’s opening look of skirt beaded in the pattern of Mongolian geometric tiles in turquoise and royal blues was a knockout and the many Afghan coats with brocades interiors and exteriors caused fashion pulses to beat faster.

Tadashi Shoji should be applauded for putting several curvy and plus-size models in his show—it may have been as many as eight. Still, fashion industry professionals long for the Tadashi Shoji of yesteryear where glamour, sophistication, and quality reigned supreme.

—William S. Gooch

Kenneth Nicholson Fall 2020

February 6, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

One thing that emerging designers need to understand and acknowledge when presenting collection on a big international fashion stage: nothing should distract from your collection. Whether any theatrics, voiceovers, even over exuberant models. The most important element of any fashion show are the garments. Without the garments or garments as the focus of the fashion show or presentation, a fashion show is just another theatrical presentation/art installation or Instagram moment.

Unfortunately, Kenneth Nicholson constructed his fall 2020 show with the focus on the theatrics of his presentation which was far removed from his actual collection. Themed around his grandmother’s couch—referencing special moments shared with his grandmother—Nicholson’s fall 2020 show opened with two pugilists’ bodies painted in gold and sparkly black, simulating boxing moves in the middle of the runway. That is where the pugilists began and that is also where they stayed throughout the run of the show with models walking around them.

Nicholson also employed liturgical voiceovers of Reverend Barber of the Poor People’s Campaign mixed in with music from “The Wiz,” and a collage of iconic R&B and church music. Perhaps, all these influences gave voice to Nicholson’s homage to his grandmother, but for the audience it was a huge distraction.

The collection, though incohesive and disjointed, did have some eye-catching elements; particularly, Nicholson’s kelly green trench and some of the men’s wide-legged trousers. Nicholson is talented and his approach could be funneled into an interesting perspective on gender fluidity. However, he has yet to learn how to put a show together for a sophisticated New York audience. (And better models would’ve have been an additional plus.)

Images courtesy of The Hinton Group

Nicholson should let his design aesthetic and point of view speak for itself minus the over-the-top Instagram moments. The potential is clear, and that inchoate talent should be his focus, not fleeting social media moments.

—William S. Gooch

Grungy Gentleman Fall 2020

February 6, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

New York Fashion Week: Mens (NYFWM) is now a sad reflection of what it aspired to be. Originally, it was launched to lure back well-known menswear brands—John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Y3, and others—back to the US fashion week market. Initially, it was successful, but it didn’t take long for NYFWM to lose steam and now it is just a shadow of what it could have been, but never was.

Though NYFWM is a shadow of what it was, there are some menswear brands that continue to present during NYFWM. Grungy Gentleman—in its 12^th season—is one such brand.

Grungy Gentleman’s creative director Jace Epstein continues to soldier on, making NYFWM one of the highlights of its season. Very little has changed with the brand since its inception. Always catering to sports-centered male consumers, Epstein, season after season attempts some unique design aesthetic into what is mostly jogging suits, hoodies and workout gear.

This season Epstein combined his sportwear aesthetic with leopard print and geometric shapes. Grungy Gentleman’s signature athletic stripes were front and center in this collection, ingeniously placed on sleeves, trouser legs, and jacket exteriors.

Images courtesy of Karyzma Agency

Though Epstein came up with some interesting fabric combinations and patterns this season, which helped elevate the collection beyond typical men’s athleisure wear, the collection as a whole is mostly athletic wear in very familiar silhouettes. But, athleisure wear for the very stylish male.

—William S. Gooch

Todd Snyder Fall 2020

February 5, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

When people think of places that inspire fashion, Maine probably isn’t one of the first places that comes to mind. However, for his fall 2020 runway show Todd Snyder looked to Maine to inspire his latest collection which was a mix of outdoor chic and downtown New York City cool. Todd Snyder is known for his modern American take on menswear, an idea that he has adapted to various aesthetics ranging from sporty to street. This time Snyder took on the outdoors.

The collection featured modern Balmacaan overcoats, Harris tweed sack jackets, and nylon down puffer vests. The thought of pairing a corduroy suit with a sleeveless puffer jacket might sound a little outrageous, but it was this juxtaposition that Snyder used to make a statement. While the nature trail guy and the cosmopolitan city guy may not think they have much in common, there can be a crossover and intersectionality. So much of American fashion grew out of utilitarian needs, and while a puffer jacket is needed for protection from the weather, a corduroy suit is both winter appropriate and meets the formal guidelines of suiting up.

The brand’s classic pieces also took a trek into unchartered territory by mixing high-tech fabrications with off-the grid aesthetics. Merino thermal sweaters in blaze orange and neon were paired with tailored suiting and duck camouflage. Buffalo check, which typically has a rustic feel, was given a style centric overhaul when paired with yellow corduroy trousers and a shearling-lined aviator hat.

Luxury and the outdoors have rarely been synonymous, but there is more opportunity for those two to intertwine than is obvious, which is what this collection proffered. Merino wool, the finest wool next to cashmere, is both a fashion forward and cold weather aiding material. Shearling is considered a quintessential luxury. Wool trousers are a staple and can be worn to the office or walking through Maine on a winter day.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Todd Snyder also took a very democratized approach to fashion with a 40-piece capsule collection with L.L. Bean, fitting for a collection that was inspired by Maine L.L. Bean was founding base. Todd Snyder did his own take on L.L. Bean’s best-known styles including oil cloth Bean Boots, chamois shirting and sweaters in duck print, hand-knit Cowichan logo sweaters, and outerwear in L.L. Bean’s signature plaid. It was outdoor tradition with a city boy touch.

Kristopher Fraser

David Hart Fall 2020

February 4, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

David Hart has consistently created menswear collections that are accessible and speak to how American male consumers want to dress. Whether he is drawing inspiration from Miami’s nightlife of the 1950s or the American Southwest or last season’s early 70s—which is having resurgence in Hollywood. Did anyone see “Dolemite” or “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood”?—Hart’s menswear point of view is always on the pulse of how the American male consumer wants to dress and celebrates masculinity.

Which is why it is unfortunate that he is not getting more industry recognition and press. Still, David Hart soldiers on, always coming up with a re-interpretation of American classics. And his re-imagining American menswear is what he is really good at.

For his fall 2020 collection, Hart looked to Maurizio Cattelan, an Italian surrealist artist, who creates satirical works are based on things and images who all know and sometimes love—Pinocchio, the Pope, Adolf Hitler. Hart took this satirical and absurdist expression and funneled it through American classic menswear.

In this collection, Hart re-interprets a Western shirt, a pilot jacket, and tweed blazers, coats, and capes, leather jackets, and cardigan sweaters in a way that conjures up images of bygone eras, but also in ways that are attractive to current consumers. Hart’s relaxed way of dressing the American male consumers is based on Hart’s acknowledgment of the American male’s need for stylish comfort paired with a particular desire for masculine charm. Now that desire for masculine charm has evolved over time to include floral embellishments and some feminine silhouettes approached with a masculine sensibility. Still, an American masculine sensibility has evolved to include myriad points of view, and Hart ingeniously injects a significant amount of these perspectives successfully in this collection.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

There is almost something for every man in this collection. Whether that guy is looking for a stylish suit, relaxed, casual sportswear or a collegiate-inspired garment, it is all here. Which is surprisingly in that this collection contains only 11 looks.

David Hart can check off another winner collection this season. And with some many wins, the time is ripe for market dominance!!

—William S. Gooch

Naeem Khan Bridal Fall 2020

October 9, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Naeem Khan loves embellishments. If you consider his ready-to-wear collections, there is always lots of embellishments—a reflection of his cultural heritage and his decades now of designing eveningwear.

That said; with the pressure to always make every ready-to-wear collection more and more consumer friendly, lots of embellishment are not necessarily appealing to modern consumers, particularly those consumers that exist outside of a luxury market. These current ready-to-wear conditions makes the bridal market an excellent opportunity for Naeem Khan to show off his penchant for luxe embellishments.

This opportunity extends to Khan infusing his bridal collection with looks from his ready-to-wear, something that other bridal designers who had ready-to-wear collection used to do. This perspective carried over to Khan’s fall 2020 collection, a collection that was heavy on embellishments and looks that went way beyond traditional bridal looks.

Naeem Khan references the 1970s a lot in his ready-to-wear collections and fashion era pops up a lot in this bridal outing. In only makes sense that Khan would favor the late 70s in that Khan was assistant designer with Halston during that time. Khan’s late 70s reference is evidenced in his use of fringe, halter gowns and jumpsuits and his form-fitting bridal gowns.

Khan gives modern bride complete looks for the entire bridal celebration. There looks extend to the bridal reception, the bridal dinner the day before the wedding, and of course looks for the bridal ceremony. And what is also refreshing about this fall 2020 outing is Khan’s unique skill at elevating bridalwear beyond traditional bridal looks, something Naeem Khan has been implementing for some time.

Images courtesy of Naeem Khan

That said, in this fall 2020 collection Khan really upped the ante with his bridal trajectory. Instead of just a few garments that pushed the proverbial bridal envelope, there were several looks. Bravo Naeem!!

—William S. Gooch

Watters Bridal Fall 2020

October 9, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

When it comes to Bridal Fashion Week, the bridal brand Watters is like a smorgasbord of bridal styles, silhouettes, and fabrications. In addition to their main line, the brand also offers up Wtoo and Willowby by Watters. While Watters has traditionally played bridal’s greatest hits from beautiful lace gowns to floral-embroidered gowns, what stands out most about Watters is the brand’s inclusive scope. Producing three different bridal collections for three different types of brides does facilitate more variety, but Watters is much more than the quantity of its bridal gowns, Watters connects to and implements what the modern is looking for at an affordable price.

This season’s mainline Watters collection was designed with both drama and comfort in mind, and nothing was too form-fitting. The opening look was a strapless A-line gown with a lace bodice and sheer skirt that gave both sex appeal and traditional glamour all at once. In ostentatious Watters style, it was paired with a giant feather hat, as a reminder that Watters isn’t always for the most traditional bride. While their designs are approachable, Watters promote individuality.

Wtoo by Watters had a very Southern Belle aesthetic. The opening dress, named “Dixie,” with details of a sleeveless V-neck with geometric and floral beading set the mood of the collection. The “Hardin” strapless modified sweetheart wedding dress with allover silver beading looked perfect for a young bride from Charleston, South Carolina about to marry her high school sweetheart. The Southern debutantes will know where to go for their dress if they are getting married next year.

Willowby by Watters had a youthful, ephemeral essence, but not without its classic touches. A tulle wedding dress with off-the-shoulder sleeves was on trend, featuring the expected lace appliqués. The collection was also accompanied by a sheer lace wedding dress, with a slip, long-sleeves, and a high-neckline for that bride looking for a mix between sexy and demure.

Photos courtesy of Watters

In their continued efforts toward diversity and inclusion, Watters also featured several plus-size models. The plus-size market is a $20 billion opportunity. Diversity continues to be the brand’s mother of invention.

Kristopher Fraser