Front Row — Page 27

Isabel Marant Resort 2021

August 7, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

For resort season many designers looked to 1980s silhouettes and design aesthetics for inspiration. In that regard, Isabel Marant followed suit.

In her Resort 2021 collection, Marant instituted looks of padded shoulders and sculptural sleeves which was an unmistakable nod the 80s exaggerated sculptural construction. That said; the 80s was the only inspiration for Marant. Marant looked to mid-20^th century modern artists like Miro and Calder for added reference points. “It’s more sophisticated, but not complicated,” explained Marant, citing her ménage of refence points for this collection. There was also a hint of the androgyny, a point of view that often pops up in Marant’s collection.

Marant’s collection are characterized by her signature aesthetic of a mix between boho chic and rock chic. Often you will find a well-tailored jacket combined cropped leather or denim trousers.

Marant’s signature DNA is front and center in this resort collection. There are several well-tailored jackets combined with high-waisted denim-like jodhpurs or stirrup pants or acid-washed skirts.

Surprisingly, there are some formal dresses in this outing. There some dresses in draped velour or fluid Tencel with cut-outs. One only wonders in these trying times where to these very sophisticated dresses.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Perhaps, because of the COVID-19 pandemic, Marant has remained hopeful that in the not-so-distant future consumers will have a proper place or event to wear this resort collection. “The confinement forced me to be very pragmatic,” she said. “This was not a moment for being superficial.”

Hmm, hope springs eternal!!

—William S. Gooch

Carolina Herrera Resort 2021

July 31, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

In case you didn’t know, Wes Gordon is the creative director of Carolina Herrera, a post he has held since Carolina Herrera stepped down from eponymous brand in 2018. Interestingly, Gordon since coming to the brand has brought his brand of fun to Herrera’s signature DNA of elegance and sophistication. And the brand’s Resort 2021 collection is a testament to Gordon’s penchant for elegance mixed with a bit of whimsy.

This Resort 2021 collection was developed while Gordon was on his summer farm in Connecticut and perhaps this tranquil, idyllic locale influenced this collection. What is more evident is that Wes Gordon looked to the classic “Wizard of Oz.” “It took on an extra-special meaning when you think that there really is ‘no place like home,’” says Gordon, as reported in a vanityfair.com article.

Another source of inspiration was all the protests around racial injustice and police brutality. “When you really read the experiences of Black Americans in any industry, you realize, Wow, we have a lot of work to do,” says Gordon. “And that includes me, that includes Herrera, that includes every white American … We could all do so much better.” Perhaps, that explains the exquisite black model that rocks all the garments in this Resort 2021 collection.

Additionally, Gordon reflected on the 80s style that so embodied Carolina Herrera’s collection in the early 80s. Oversized shoulders, taffeta dresses, tops, and gowns, and over-the-top glamour is back!!

This is a collection for the glamor girl who wants her clothes to express that she owns everything while still being fun and whimsical. And what is more whimsical than polka dots. Gordon know that, so in his won inimical way Gordon lets polka dots make a big statement in this Resort collection. “The world is serious enough; fashion should let our dreams soar and bring us joy,” says Gordon.

Gordon continues to stay true to Carolina Herrera’s aesthetic by incorporating her signature white shirt into this collection. Gordon’s 80s-inspired crisp white shirt is paired beautifully with denim-like shorts.

There is something in this collection for almost every woman. And though there will not be any red carpets of major events to attend any time soon, Gordon injects a bit of red-carpet glam into this collection with several sequined glitter and shine numbers.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Hey, why not aim for the stars!! You just might get there!!

—William S. Gooch

Burberry Resort 2021

July 28, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Though there may be rumors that Riccardo Tisci is leaving Burberry, Tisci’s design aesthetic is part and parcel at the iconic brand. And the Burberry Resort 2021 collection proves that Tisci is still at full strength.

Since Tisci’s tenure at Givenchy, a post that he left in 2017, the fashion industry has adored Tisci’s use of architectural structure and minimalism. Aesthetics that are serving him well at Burberry.

For his Resort 2021 collection for Burberry, Riccardo Tisci aptly demonstrates his mastery of combining a high-end streetwear aesthetic with his special brand of sophisticated tailoring. Staying true to Burberry’s DNA of elevated outerwear—particularly trench coats and jackets—Tisci injects his own brand of bold color and architectural structure in this season’s Resort collection. Interestingly, Tisci has found an easy balance between whimsy and Burberry’s signature austerity in this collection, which is in an unexpected departure from what one would expect from Burberry.

In this collection, Tisci uses the bold and the subtle. The bold is expressed in large, oversized plaids as seen in a more traditional Burberry trench and a plaid suit ensemble. Elsewhere Tisci used minimalist silhouettes and with delicate pink rose prints that decorate a black button-down, trousers, and a puff-shouldered shirtdress all highlight Tisci understated design aesthetic which works so well in this outing.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Though this Resort 2021 collection is quite small—only 11 pieces—Tisci with his ingenious use of form, structure and silhouette makes a strong statement. And like many brands of this ilk, Tisci employs huge logos, as evidenced on a classic beige trench coat. And putting the logos is a bold red color not only demonstrates Tisci’s ability to follow trends—there is also some athleisure wear in this collection—but also highlights his affinity for the tongue-in-check irreverence and satire.

—William S. Gooch

Louis Vuitton Resort 2021

July 15, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

COVID-19 is causing businesses and everyone to make life adjustments. And that includes the fashion industry. If you live in the States and in US cities that have opened department stores, you are experiencing this new normal and lifestyle adjustments. (Standing in the hot sun outside of a department store for up to an hour just to be admitted into shop is no party.)

That said; just as consumers are adjusting, so are fashion brands. Louis Vuitton usually presents its resort collections on cruise ships. Not this season.

For its resort 2021 collection, Louis Vuitton Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière chose to photograph the 2021 resort collection at the brand’s studio in Paris, a major departure for the iconic brand.

The pandemic caused Ghesquière to reflect on his past—it’s hard to project toward the future when confronted with a global pandemic that is shaking the foundations of our planet. In this reflection, Ghesquière looked back at the successes of his tenure at Louis Vuitton. Something that popped up in his other 2020 collections for the iconic brand.

Interestingly, for this outing Ghesquière drew inspiration from the Louis Vuitton logo, creating variations on that theme, as well as reflecting on a time, not so long ago, when people went to an office to work.

By shooting the resort 2021 collection at the Louis Vuitton Paris studio, Ghesquière could make use of office equipment as props. And by looking inward, Ghesquière explores his signature territory of style-driven emotions, memorable colors, enthralling cuts, and curated wardrobe expertise. And when it comes to shape and silhouette, the graphic intention collection plays with the fantasy of illusion, where clubs bloom, spades pierce, diamonds sparkle, and the almighty heart reigns.

Ghesquière also has an interesting take on mixing and matching different shapes and silhouettes. Ghesquière pairs full trench coats with ruffled tops and sneakers; pinstriped, Gibson Girl-like tops with fit-to-flare skirts, color-blocked tops and skirts with ruffles and stilettoes. There is a lot of hard elements combined with soft elements in this resort collection, which, if you think about it, is a commentary of where we are in the world. (We need hard science if we are to understand the COVID-19 virus married with love and compassion for those who are ill and those who don’t have access to treatment.)

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

And just as Nicolas Ghesquière is reflecting on and drawing inspiration from a time when life was less complicated, while still projecting toward the future; perhaps, we should be doing the same thing. Hmm, easier said than done. Still, a phoenix rising out of the ashes!!

—William S. Gooch

Moschino Resort 2021

July 3, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Diamonds, Daisies, Snowflakes,

That Girl

Chestnuts, Rainbows, Springtime …

Is That Girl

She’s tinsel on a tree …

She’s everything that every girl should be!

—Opening lyrics from “That Girl” by Earle Hagen and Sam Denoff

Jeremy Scott’s ‘That Girl’ for the Moschino Resort 2021 collection is a glance back to that stylish, carefree woman of the mid-1960s. Think Natalie Wood in “Sex and the Single Girl,” Diahann Carroll in “Julia,” when she wasn’t in her nurse’s garb, Goldie Hawn in “Laugh-In,” and of course Marlo Thomas in “That Girl.”

Like previous Moschino collections with Jeremy Scott at the helm, there is the blatant representation of the Moschino logo emblazed everywhere possible. Though it can be a bit overdone at times, this forceful representation is a part of the brand’s charm. And when you add this in-your-face, bold Moschino imprint with loud polka dots, and bold color, this 2021 resort collection takes on a whimsical, tongue-in-check, charming look back at 60s, cinematic ‘It’ girls.

Additionally, there are smiley faces and peace signs, Italian flag motifs, and the slogan tee—“I don’t speak Italian, but I do speak Moschino”—from Scott’s 2014 debut at the label. “I just wanted to keep it joyful and alive and true to OG fans and new ones,” Scott said.

Scott considers this resort 2021 collection a love letter to Moschino. And this is the first time Scott has used the Italian flag in his design aesthetic.

What also stands out about this 2021 resort collection is the range of garments. Scott has designed something almost every juncture of a women’s day. This resort 2021 collection includes a trench coat, joggers, day dresses, jumpsuits, evening cocktail dresses, even a classic, little black dress. There is everything except an evening gown.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Despite living in tumultuous and uncertain times, Scott has produced a resort collection that is fun, frolicky, and just the right amount of wink wink. Something so badly needed in these times of uncertainty. Even ‘That Girl’ would smile!!

—William S. Gooch

Savannah Miller Bridal Spring 2021

April 19, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

For her spring 2021 collection Savannah Miller had two inspirations. First, Savannah Miller looked to 1930s Golden Hollywood icon Carole Lombard.

When one thinks about Carole Lombard the words sophisticated, sensual, and American glamour immediately come to mind. But not necessarily words associated with bridal. It was Savannah Miller’s challenge to figure out to link the image of Carole Lombard with wedding nuptials. “[Carole Lombard’ embodied the feminine and sensual essence of our brands design aesthetic and is a constantly inspiring reference with her playful yet powerful magnetism,” explained Miller.

Miller’s next point of reference was Aurora, the mythical goddess of the dawn. In this spring 2021 collection Savannah Miller attempted to capture the feeling of a new beginning of the dawn of something sacred and beautiful. All relating to the mythical goddess Aurora who brings the beginning of a new day.

These two reference points, though somewhat disparate, were made compatible bedfellows by Miller, evidenced in a collection that possessed simple elegance, freshness and charm. And Miller’s simplicity is never boring, but a simplicity steeped in elegance and majesty.

This season the collection builds on our signature biased cut, effortless silhouettes and includes a combination of multiple different fabrics combined to make innovative textures. Layers of chiffon and Chantilly laces exude femininity and the addition of embellishments built on the archival inspired details give the collection a unique identity.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this spring 2021 collection include the luxurious stretch matte crepe gown featuring a square cut with fully corseted bodice and sporty strap detail, heavyweight stretch crepe, strapless A-line gown with a fully corseted bodice and beautiful ombre pearl tulle overlay, and high square-necked gown with plunging deep low V-back detail accentuating the waist.

William S. Gooch

Sophie Et Voilà Bridal Spring 2021

April 19, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

You may ask yourself, why be informed of spring 2021 bridal collection in these uncertain times? When we are living in life-and-death times, wedding nuptials are not the first thing on most peoples’ mind. And these bridal collections are presented a year in advance, not necessarily an immediate need, so why bother?

Let’s re-examine this bridal challenge. Though this global pandemic has made everyone keenly aware of how precious life can be, that is no reason not to plan. We will get through this and good planning never goes out of style. (If the government had put together an adequate COVID-19 plan in the US, many lives would have been saved.)

Since 2016 Sophie Et Voilà, founded by Sofia Arribas, has gained considerable market traction due to the brand’s combination of elegance and simplicity. Often Arribas draws inspiration from her years spent as an architect and consumers will find clean, geometrical cuts balanced with a soft ethereal touch, reflecting each collections continuity and coherence. Each design is sewn entirely by hand in her Madrid and Bilbao-based atelier’s and crafted using the most exquisite fabrics and impeccable finishes.

For spring 2021, Sofia Arribas was inspired by the different kinds of women she and business and design partner Saioa Goitia have been, in other words their evolution as women. This spring 2021 embodies their growth evidenced in clean, geometrical cuts paired perfectly with floating layers of ethereal silk tulle and fringe.

The design duo elegantly balanced the hard and soft elements of this collection by celebrating the true femininity and power that lies within every woman—elegance and audaciousness, virtuous and sensuous, maternal and nocturnal. Sleek Mikado slip gowns are adorned with detachable voluminous bows, ruffles and sleeves. Jumpsuits, minis and interchangeable separates offer a seamless transition from day to night.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Sustainably manufactured in Spain, the spring 2021 collection also introduces select styles made from completely recycled polyester fabrics. The contemporary designs and slow fashion philosophy of Sophie Et Voilà deliver a one-of-a-kind collection for the fashion forward and environmentally conscious bride.

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2021

April 19, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

For her bridal spring 2021 collection, Ines Di Santo looked to the beloved Greek Isles and other majestic beaches for inspiration. These backdrops often serve bridal destinations for her customer. So, with customer in mind Ines Di Santo has created a bridal collection that aptly serves her base.

In this season of global love with the realization that we are deeply connected to each other, particularly in a world where certainty is becoming an unavailable commodity, it is important to reflect and understand how much we need each other and how the actions of some affect the lifestyle of others.

In this time of global shifts and a new normal, Ines di Santo has committed to eco-conscious sustainability. This commitment is expressed in this spring 2021 bridal collection by Ines di Santo employing new fabrics such as a tissue Mikado that is made of 70% recycled plastic bottles.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

“More and more we are seeing brides and couples prioritizing sustainability and the environment as part of their decision-making process when it comes to their celebration and the wedding gown. This is our challenge as a bridal brand to speak to this emerging audience. Being a couture brand, we really create each gown with almost no waste as each gown is made custom for our brides’ measurements. We are not mass producing, so it is already in our nature to be more sustainable and eco-conscious. This season we are very excited to be introducing some new recycled fabrics into the line. We have one fabric made 70% of recycled bottles, but it is woven at such a high quality that one would never be able to tell upon touch; we are very excited about these types of new developments and plan on launching more and more each season,” explained Ines di Santo in a weddingbells.ca article.

Whether Ines di Santo is using eco-friendly fabrications or continuing to use traditional fabrics that have been so important to her bridal collections, her bridal collections will continue to be the highlight or every bridal season. And we are all the better for it!!

William S. Gooch

Justin Alexander Signature Bridal Spring 2021

April 18, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Is this the time to plan wedding nuptials? With the COVID-19 pandemic wrecking financial, health, and emotional havoc on the US economy and healthcare systems, one wonders if this time is appropriate for planning a wedding. Though this could and should be an individual choice, the viability of wedding nuptials seems to be unclear at this junction.

Still, consider that most weddings are planned well over a year in advance. So, if that is true, perhaps, the COVID-19 pandemic will have been resolved by April/May 2021 or at the very least calmed down enough so that friends and loved ones can safely attend a wedding.

With that theory in mind, it should be no surprise that the bridal industry has moved ahead with promoting bridal collections for the spring 2021 season. And though New York International Bridal Week spring 2021 season was cancelled due to COVID-19 concerns, many bridal designers forged ahead with digital presentations.

Justin Alexander was one such bridal designer. For his spring 2021 bridal collection, Justin Alexander was inspired by the sleek and sultry vibe of 1930’s jazz. And Justin Alexander expanded this inspiration by naming the bridal gowns in this spring 2010 collection after famous jazz artists, namely Dinah Washington, Duke Ellington, Peggy Lee, Count Basie, Billie Holiday, Dexter Coleman, Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald, Charlie Parker, Etta James, and many others.

Like the sounds of the jazz era, this season’s styles are full of depth and range- featuring mixed textures, unique and ornate beading, and soft colors. The silhouettes are dramatic—showcasing sparkle details, large bows, plunging necklines, and low backs. Clean gowns and pantsuits rise up to another level with modern accessories, detachable elements, and floral details. This collection is a medley of elevated, edgy, chic, and fashion-forward designs.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Additionally, what Justin Alexander does so expertly in this collection is combining classic bridal silhouettes with a modern sensibility. And like the sassiness and exuberance of 1930s jazz, this spring 2021 bridal collection expresses a modern brides’ penchant for individuality, effervescence, and modern charm. This collection also has something that will appeal to brides from difference age demographics. From those younger brides that may want to reveal more skin and show off those svelte physiques to those more seasoned bridal consumers who are looking for something classic and sophisticated, this spring 2021 bridal collection does not disappoint. Bravo Justin!!

—William S. Gooch

LANDEROS NEW YORK Fall 2020

March 9, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

The gender fluidity revolution is expanding. From international fashion brands such as Palomo Spain, Rick Owens, and Hakan Akkaya to more homegrown brands like The Blonds, Kenneth Nicholson, Olivia Oblanc, and Official Rebrand, the gender fluidity movement is fashion is breaking new ground and give space to redefine gender.

Launched in 2013, NYC-based fashion brand LANDEROS New York, as the name implies, fuses a New York City street aesthetic with a design perspective that arises out of creative director Andre Landeros Michel’s love for music from a variety of musical genres—punk, goth, new wave, industrial—seen through the lens of gender neutral dressing. This design aesthetic is expressed through exaggerated silhouettes and nonconventional materials.

From LANDEROS New York’s fall 2020 collection, Andre Landeros Michel demonstrated his acuity with outerwear and nonconventional fabrics. And though this collection did not possess a lot of bold color, Michel made up for that lack with fabrications that glistened and sparkled. The color palette ranged from plums and oxblood to charcoal and silver.

Entitled “Night Transmissions” this collection is for that urban warrior is not afraid to be noticed as they traverse from glamorous speakeasys to other nightlife hotspots. Interestingly, the entire collection is made from sustainable materials.

What stood up most in this fall 2020 collection was the gender neutrality of the garments. That said, the gender fluidity of the collection in no way minimized the glamor and fabulousness of the collection. This collection is not for the mild-mannered consumer. Michel designs for that consumer who expresses their love of individuality through their clothes.

“I have friends in the LGBTQ community and Cis and Non-binary friends that segregation didn’t make sense for us to do a collection that served specifically for men or women. LANDEROS New York goes on record to say that we do one collection. If you want to call it genderless, if you want to call it non-binary, we welcome all those terms, but we do one collection and we open it to everyone,” said Michel.

Images courtesy of LANDEROS New York

And LANDEROS NEW YORK open-door policy works best for that consumer who is not afraid to put it out there; in whatever way they define themselves. After all, gender expression is an individual definition. Why not celebrate the range of that realization?

—William S. Gooch