Front Row — Page 14

Libertine Spring 2024

September 10, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you closely examine Libertine, one thing stands out above all other design elements. It’s mostly all about fabrics and textile choices.

Season after season, Libertine creative director Johnson Hartwig has made the brand stand out and excel based on his fabric choices. This season is no exception.

While in Morocco Hartig discovered some antique fabric books and was delighted in the polka-dotted fabrics and confetti fabrics from the 1930s and 40s he found in these books. Those fabric choices turned out to be the source of inspiration for this spring 2024 collection.

Accompanied by some style-appropriate spring tweeds, confetti-inspired and polka-dotted fabrics conjured images and styles you would find in nautical styles of films of the 1940s. And the ceramic tile-patterns reflect souvenirs one would garnish on an exotic vacation.

True to form, the brand has become an expert in tailoring and embellishment. Where some brands embellishments sometimes appear as something that was added on at the last minute, Johnson’s technical acumen produces garments with embellishments appearing as an almost natural augment of the garment.

Case in point, is the suit inspired by a photograph of Salvador Dali embellished with crystal-eating utensils. Also, to be considered is this season’s fringe and flower-embellished jacket.

Though inspiration for this collection are fabrics from the 1930s and 40s, Johnson manages to keep the collection fresh and current. And this collection with crazy patchwork of prints and patterns works just as well on male consumers and a female demographics.

Though there were some looks in this collection that are outside of what some consumers might ass to their wardrobe—Libertine has long been a fashion brand for the fashion risk taker—there were several garments that would appeal to wide demographic. And unlike of collections of yore, this spring 2024 collection was one of brands more retail-friendly collections.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Bravo Johnson Hartwig. Keep up the good work!!

—William S. Gooch

Gita Omri Spring 2024

September 10, 2023 by admin 1 Comment

Held in the Wonderland installation building on Fifth Avenue, anyone attending Gita Omri’s Spring 2024 show could quickly see that you were about to swallow a potion and enter a dreamscape. The runway itself twisted through multiple rooms–each room decorated like a child’s dreams. From a life-size chess board to a garden party that looks like it was inspired by the Mad Hatter’s tea, the setting was the perfect place for the show.

The show itself ran smoothly, each model coming out at the right time and focused on presenting the clothes. And if you know New York Fashion Week (NYFW), you know what a feat that can be! But you’re not here to read about the execution of the event or the building it was in, no, like anyone else that opens an article about a runway show, you’re here for the review.

The 24 garments were designed twice to create a size-inclusive collection. This is the primary focus of many of Omri’s designs. “Size and numbers are something that women get so caught up in and can end up basing their self-worth on, which really bothers me. Size tags should just be a tool to find the right fit for you.” Omri explained after the show.

To avoid this, the garments all contain removable size tags that can be taken off after you’ve found what fits your body best. This brilliant idea does highlight how important size-inclusivity is for the brand, so much so that at times the clothes almost seemed to fit the plus-sized model better than the garment that fit into industry standards. This wasn’t always the case, the ponte-knit style pants and classic boatneck blouses have the potential to become a staple for women of every size. Other than those looks, some of the fabrics used seemed to take the childhood fantasy a bit too seriously. The double-layer dresses that opened the show were items that you could see a young woman in her twenties easily gravitating towards, but later in the show when the same design was produced with color-blocking details in a shimmering, sequined fabric you were reminded of the dresses you might see in a kindergarten classroom.

Part of this is kitchy-ness of Gita Omri, with the bright colors almost akin to Lily Pulitzer. The information sheet for the show included a quote from “Bridgerton’s” Queen Charlotte and when speaking with Omri after the show there was more insight on the romantic influence of the collection. Many of the pieces were inspired by her own marriage, how love builds, develops, and changes over time.

Images courtesy of VERY New York

This romantic aesthetic of the collection was demonstrated with the colors, cuts, and details shown in many of the garments. The bright colors and whimsical details are a signature stamp of the brand. As you get pulled into the colorful and whimsical world of Gita Omri, remember to stay grounded in your love for yourself and others.

—Sydney Yeager

Terry Singh Spring 2024

September 10, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are not familiar with Terry Singh, you should be. Singh is giving American and international consumers a new way of looking a menswear. And that new way is pairing skirts with formal and informal wear.

A man in a skirt is not a new concept. Marc Jacobs has been the man skirt in his collections, and so has menswear superstar John Varvatos. Terry Singh is doing the same thing, but as the focus of the entire collection.

And that focus is the South Asian menswear skirt, the lungi or dhoti. The lungi and dhoti are traditional men’s skirt that can found as traditional wear in Indian. The lungi is a type of multicolored sarong, tied below the waist and can flow all the way to the ankles. The dhoti skirt is also a type of sarong but tied between the legs.

What Singh does so successfully is take these forms of South Asian traditional men’s skirts is take this aesthetic and mix it in with design menswear aesthetics from Scotland, Turkey and other countries married with a contemporary aesthetic.

For spring 2024 Singh was inspired by hockey jerseys and military uniforms, all seen through the lens of lungi and dhoti skirts. And with that inspiration Singh adds in tuxedo jackets, a streetwear aesthetic, and a new way of looking a red-carpet attire for men.

Where in the past men in skirts was almost a rebellious affront to traditional menswear. Boy George and the punk aesthetic of the late 1970s and 80s gave the proverbial bird flip to Savile Row’s men’s suiting by donning skirt. That is not the case with Terry Singh. Singh is proposing a masculine alternative to traditional by reintroducing the skirt as menswear. And does so brilliantly.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

From casual streetwear to formal and red-carpet attire, Singh expertly created an expansive perspective on how the modern male consumer can add to his wardrobe. And menswear consumers are taking up the clarion call.

—William S. Gooch

Kobi Halperin Spring 2024

September 10, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you have worked in the fashion industry long enough, you are familiar with all the banter around which fashion collections have retail value or which collections are brilliantly creative for creative sake. Hopefully, fashion collections are balanced with both retail value and creativity; however, that is not always the case.

HALPERIN’s spring 2023 collection contains both retail value and creativity. And the brand should be proud that has obtained that delicate balance.

For this spring 2024 collection creative director Kobi Halperin was inspired by the art of Sigalit Landau. “For this collection, I drew inspiration from the captivating artwork of Sigalit Landau in her exhibition “The Burning Sea.” Her presentation involved soaking objects in the Dead Sea for extended periods, crystallizing them with salt. Each item emerged refashioned and revitalized in striking and unexpected ways. The dynamic, sparkly layers produced stunning transformations of composition and detail,” explained Kobi Halperin.

“With a background rooted in Jerusalem and Eastern Europe, Landau’s work resonates with my own. There is the memory of time, place, and form, seeped in history and tradition, deep and fundamental and tempered by struggle, yet unafraid to embrace growth and change through a hopeful and dynamic vision of the future. That vision now confronts the disruption of climate change, where human action has drawn nature’s response, which in turn will draw our own. As we do so, we will rebuild, recreate, and renew, as with Landau’s layers of salt.”

This collection is quite large with several garments organized according to the spring 2024 color palette of the brand. And this collection is extremely retail friendly, dressing consumers at every jointure of their day. Evidence of this is how well HALPERIN is doing in retail stores, especially Bloomingdales.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

What also stands out in this spring 2024 collection is that this collection has retail appeal to a very wide consumer demographic, particularly women of all ages. Kobi Halperin has his finger on the pulse of what his consumer wants, creating garments that would appeal to his base while adding in elements that keeps his base fashion forward.

—William S. Gooch

Kate Spade Spring 2024

September 9, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

There has been much conversation about the future of the Kate Spade brand since the designer’s untimely death a few years ago. Based on the brand’s spring 2024 collection shown on New York City’s famed Highline, all is good and well with the brand.

Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu, both design directors at Kate Spade, had a specific direction for this spring collection. Though having spring as an inspiration for a spring collection is not much of stretch, for Mora and Lyu look to that specific day in spring when cold temperatures peel away to more temperatures spring weather.

This collection presented very sophisticated classic spring looks against the backdrop of a still quite verdant Highline. Image a casual walk in Central Park just as the weather warms as you show off your sporty style, that is this spring 2024 collection.

There is nothing extraordinary or innovative about this spring collection; however, this collection is crafted so well and is styled so well many consumers will flock to have some of these garments in their spring wardrobes. And this collection is quite classic, there are several items that will appeal to young consumers.

Images courtesy of L’Officiel Malaysia

Mora and Lyu stay true to the brand’s design DNA by bringing back the Noel Print from 1999. The Noel Print has been revamped and added an infusion of youthfulness to the spring collection. And by including vintage varsity cardigans and sweaters to the collection, Mora and Lyu added a special blend of Americana to a collection that included separates that look great on an early spring day.

William S. Gooch

NARDOS Spring 2024

September 9, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If your tenure in the fashion industry dates to New York Fashion Week (NYFW) at Bryant Park, there is much discussion about the lack of glamorous fashion collections that send your heart facing and quickens your pulse. Oh, the glory days of the supermodels—Claudia, Cyndy, Naomi, Linda, Christy—and all the other glamazons of days of yore!! There is also much banter about the collections of Isaac Mizrahi, Monique Lhuillier—when she still showed in New York City—Ralph Rucci, and even Venexiana.

Those days are gone, but not necessarily the glamour. Enter NARDOS.

If NARDOS didn’t bring sexy back, she absolutely brought the glamor and sophistication that so many industry professionals of a certain age and era long for. And the brand employs a design aesthetic that will also appeal to younger industry professionals and consumers. Think HBO’s “Gilded Age” updated to 2023.

NARDOS made its New York debut in April 2023, presenting its eponymous bridal collection. For those who attended this incredible debut, housed in the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza Hotel, could predict that the brands ready-to-wear collection would be as glamorous and auspicious at the brand’s bridal collection. And those predictions went beyond expectation during NYFW.

For the brands NYFW debut, creative director Nardos Imam was inspired by the charm of Venetian glass and its juxtaposition to blossoming flora. Entitled “Venetian Blooms,” this collection is a journey through a world where fashion becomes a canvas, each garment a masterpiece that marries the enchantment of petals with the grandeur of architectural inspiration. And there is no better place to take this grand journey than at the St. Regis Hotel, the venue for this spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection.

Nardos incorporated the blossoming aspect of this spring 2024 inspiration by including floral embellishments on several of the gowns. There are also lots of floral prints in this ready-to-wear outing that also reflect Imam’s inspiration.

That said, what works so well in this debut ready-to-wear collection is Nardos Imam’s ability to marry classic, luxury silhouette with a modern sensibility sets her apart from many designers who consistently show luxury red carpet looks during NYFW. And what also stood out in this collection was Nardos Imam’s skill at picking the correct model for the correct garment. Something is that is sorely missing from many fashion collections this season.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection, and there were many, were the vivid tea-length dress in bright red, crafted from exquisite French lace, enhanced with a satin-faced organza rosette belt, white button-down shirt dress with a tulle skirt overlay paired with a corset and shorts ensemble, Venetian glass-inspired gown featuring sweetheart iridescent fringe, exquisite floral embroidery and sterling silver floral accents, and the V-neckline floral applique hot pink gown adorned with draped rosettes.

—William S. Gooch

Reem Acra Bridal Spring 2024

April 15, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

For her spring 2024 bridal collection Reem Acra drew inspiration from Old Hollywood romantic movies and love stories. Acra’s bridal collections have always conjured up images of whimsical fantasy and romance; however, Acra’s spring 2024 collection particularly includes visions of frothy, fairy tale-like love.

Fairy-tale ballgowns mix with sleek corsets. Plunging necklines and hidden slits accentuate the bride’s figure. A touch of crystals completes the looks.

Making brides dreams come true, Reem Acra has brought us a collection that goes beyond design and creates an emotional connection to the bride and her story. The dresses are timeless yet make an unforgettable statement.

And though these harken back to a time of innocence and guilelessness, they are modern enough to appeal to modern brides. With all timeless works of art, these bridal gowns could become heirloom gowns to be passed on to posterity bringing joy and grace to any new bride or brides to come.

The Hollywood collection brings back the element of dressing up that isn’t as prevalent today, making brides feel extra special. The world of bridal continues to be the heart and soul of Reem Acra.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this 20-piece collection includes the brand’s fit-to-flair sleeveless gown with small floral embellishments on the gown with larger blue floral embellishments on the upper bodice, bridal princess gown with deep decolletage embellished with lavender and yellow floral arrangements, Mikado silk gown with bell sleeves and huge extended pink bow detail, and A-line gown with detachable train and blue and lavender floral embellishments.

—William S. Gooch

Esé Azénabor Bridal Spring 2024

April 14, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

The Bridal Council has its finger on what many brides want, and in the U.S, brides are demanding more diversity and inclusion. And the Bridal Council is responding to this clarion call.

Dallas-based, Nigerian fashion designer Esé Azénabor is one of the answers to this demand. As were Rami Al Ali and Nardos Imam, adding to the Bridal Council deliberate push toward diversity and inclusion.

“We are excited to showcase in our first-ever Bridal Fashion Week, introducing our couture runway collection ‘Essence.’ I chose to create the ‘Essence’ line to really show what inspired me to become a designer which is creating lots of texture. From fabric manipulation, Swarovski crystals, to Ostrich feathers, and 3D floral patterns. Creating real-life texture such as the countless hand-beaded pearls for our one-of-a-kind brides. This runway collection elevates a form of uniqueness and innovation that we cannot wait to bring to our brides,”explained Esé Azénabor.

Esé Azénabor debut collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week took place at the brand’s new boutique on 91^st and Madison. This luxury bridal boutique takes up about two thirds of the block which made a presentation at New York Bridal Fashion Week facilitate housing dozens of fashion industry professionals.

With models standing on a pink carpet outside of the boutique in luxurious bridal gowns, the extravagant bridal spectacle caused quite a scene of the Upper Eastside with tourists and Upper eastside residents crowding around the models on the street, taking pictures, and marveling at the brand’s high-end bridal creations.

And as the outsiders wondered and marveled at Esé Azénabor’s bridal compendium on luxury and glamor, so did the industry professionals inside of the brand’s boutique. That said, as is reflective of cultural trends in Nigeria where native consumers go in for embellishments and an abundance of glamorous statements when they dress up for events, so did Esé Azénabor employ this point of view in her bridal creations.

This is not a bridal collection for the bridal wallflower or conservative bridal consumer. This is a collection for a bride that wants to make a statement, where wagging tongues will talk about the bridal gown for seasons after the nuptial ceremony.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

This new bridal boutique in New York City’s Upper Eastside mirrors it sister boutique in Dallas. And a men’s luxury jacket and tuxedo boutique—from Don Morphy, the Dallas-based, Cameroon designer is set to open later this year on 91^st and Madison.

Esé Azénabor keep the luxury, high-end bridal creations coming. The Upper Eastside is all the better for it!!

—William S. Gooch

Rami Al Ali Bridal Spring 2024

April 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you haven’t heard of Rami Al Ali, it is time you did. For close to a decade, Rami Al-Ali has been making incredible ready-to-wear red-carpet garments. Five years ago, he branched into bridal.

Rami Al Ali’s bridal collection marks the third time the Dubai-based designer has presented at New York Bridal Week. For his ‘White’ bridal collection, Al Ali explores the themes of femininity and modernity, curating an exquisitely romantic narrative through his unique 12-piece collection.

“This is a third time presenting at New York Bridal Week and each time we have presented we’ve received very positive reviews and feedback. We tend to blend classic, timeless bridal silhouettes with a hint of modern sensibilities,” says Rami Al Ali. “We also wanted to introduce our premium luxury level to the bridal ready-to-wear market.

Establishing a collection for the modern-day bride, Rami Al Ali uses his renowned aesthetic to effortlessly deconstruct traditional looks and reimagine them with a new vision. A fresh and youthful nature personifies the collection with beautifully prevailing shapes and flowing lines that are built upon the fashion house’s prominent design codes. Traditional, princess-style gowns and voluminous full skirts are met with structured bodices, while elaborate architectural detailing is perfectly distinguished against sleek and sensual silhouettes, adding a majestic touch of contemporary femininity, and designed to echo the sentiment of a once-in-a-lifetime occasion.

Al-Ali’s inspiration for his spring 2024 ‘White’ collection was a modern, sexy twist on traditional classics. “I didn’t want to reinvent the wheel because this bridal collection still has some traditional elements. We know that some of our consumers are younger, they want to show some skin. [Our younger consumer] is changing three or four times, so we wanted something signature along the contemporary route. In this collection we also employ some modern techniques as well as some architectural shapes” explained Rami Al Ali.

Images courtesy of Rami Al-Ali

Beautiful fabrics and exquisite finishing are elevated further by the unwavering passion and uncompromising mastery of the atelier. Al Ali’s unparalleled knowledge of fabrics is showcased through the use of delicate French laces, sumptuous silks, and whimsical tulle and organza, perfectly fueling the dreamlike fantasy that can be felt throughout the collection. Handcrafted Swarovski crystal embroideries are coupled with sophisticated beadwork, offering each look the same level of focus with detailed handwork to echo the hallmarks of a signature couture design.

The timeless color palette remains true to its bridal form, and resonates elegant shades of white and pearl, with thoughtful touches of silver hues in between. The fashion house has once again skillfully created a collection with elegance, and classicism, with a modern-day edge, allowing the Rami Al Ali bride to fully express herself while opting for designs that stand the test of time.

—William S. Gooch

NARDOS Bridal Spring 2024

April 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Anytime you have a bridal or fashion show in the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza Hotel, you know that you will witness an incredible collection. And NARDOS’ spring 2024 bridal collection did not disappoint. In fact, it surpassed most industry professionals’ expectations.

Launching her eponymous fashion brand in 2012, Eritrean-born Nardos Imam in the past decade has become a sought-after fashion designer for her luxury, high-end garments. Her ready-to-wear, red-carpet garments have been worn by many celebrities. That said, her bridal collections have been recognized mostly in the Dallas, Texas area.

With this recent presentation at the Plaza Hotel, Nardos Imam is ready to take the New York bridal market by storm. This spring 2024 bridal collection was focused on taking timeless classics seen the prism of a fashion-forward modernity.

As most brides are in the market for more than one bridal garment for her very special day, Nardos provides her customers with lots of options for three to six bridal garments for their nuptials. Which is what modern brides now demand—rehearsal dinner, bridal ceremony, reception and sometimes, other bridal events.

Appropriate for the venue—the Plaza Hotel—that housed the NARDOS spring 2024 collection, there were several “Gilded Age” styled bridal gowns in the collection. (You cannot get more gilded in New York City than the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza Hotel.) Additionally, Nardos expertly employed many of the current fashion trends—statement sleeved, ruffles, big bows, and big floral embellishments.

Standout looks in the collection, included but are not limited to, the brand’s mini dress with floral lace and feminine bow, long sleeve silk gown with 3D floral feather shoulder details, organza neck lace gown with duchess satin bubble skirt, strapless Shantung gown with droop waist and mixed beading, deep V neck satin gown with 3D flowers and detachable skirt, and sweetheart beaded coreset gown with trickling feathers.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

The New York Bridal market is so excited that Nardos Imam is joining the New York Bridal market. As fashion markets aim for more inclusion and diversity, Nardos Imam is a much- needed representative for the market’s expanded inclusion.

—William S. Gooch