Front Row — Page 16

Dennis Basso Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

If you want to experience elegant furs, Dennis Basso is your fashion designer of choice during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). And he is one of the few NYFW designers that includes real fur in their collections due to protest from anti-fur activists. Caution to the wind, Basso does what he does best, fur coats and fur-embellished garments.

That said, Basso’s fashion collections include more than fur coats. He also includes wonderful gowns and cocktail dresses in his collection. And his current collection is no exception.

This collection, the 40^th anniversary of the brand, celebrates women—Basso’s customer—dressing out and going out again and celebrating nightlife, and more specifically New York City nightlife. For this collection, Basso referenced several previous collections and fabrications from his 40 years of archives.

This fall 2023 collection is composed of statement daywear looks, luxury out-on-the-town looks, full ballgowns, trench coats, and pantsuits. Basso also includes some current trends and continuing trends in this outing, namely extended statement sleeves, gemstone colors, as well as colorful beading and sequins.

Still, what would a Dennis Basso collection be without his furs. And there is a plethora of furs to satiate the palettes of his loyal consumer base. There are lavender furs, a chinchilla bolero, Russian lynx, a navy lynx jacket, a dolman-sleeved Russian sable coat, and a white mink bolero. In fact, the fur list goes on and on. And with Basso, that is the only way to do it!!

Standout looks in the collection, include, but is not limited to, the brand’s sequined tweed pantsuit with fox shawl, curly lamb silver laminate tweed coat, gold duchess satin strapless gown with hand-embroidered neckline, gold tweed pant suit with curly lamb sleeves, and cream mink cape fringe with silk chiffon blouse and wide-legged jacquard pant.

Images courtesy of Purple PR

Add supermodel Beverly Johnson to the closing look of the collection, and Basso proves that his 40^th anniversary collection is a triumph. Bravo Basso!!

—William S. Gooch

Christian Siriano Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Christian Siriano has proven himself in the fashion industry. But you don’t need me to tell you that.

As one of the few designers from “Project Runway,”—a show he now hosts—that has stood the fashion test of time, Siriano has not only survived the downward trajectory of many former “Project Runway” contestants he has thrived and triumphed.

Siriano has survived so brilliantly that he is now in the conversation with iconic American brands—Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Pamella Roland, and others. Siriano’s fall 2023 collection justified his position in the American fashion constellation.

For his fall 2023 show, staged at Gotham Hall, Siriano produced a 56-garment collection. Inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s character Holly Golightly in the iconic “Breakfast at Tiffany,” Siriano’s color palette mimicked the colors in Hepburn’s garden, with Siriano peppering Gotham Hall with pink, purple, and white floral arrangements.

As with most Siriano’s fashion collections, this fall 2023 contained garments that were overdesigned, bordering on garish fantasies a la Siriano style. No one could pull this off in the US better than Siriano. With Siriano the overdesigned fantasies work in an almost tongue-in-cheek kind of way.

There was not just the current ruffle trend, sheer garments, and bold colors in this outing, there was an overabundance of ruffles and rosettes to the level of garishness, well almost. Still, for Siriano, it worked.

Less is better is not a phrase that readily pops up in Siriano’s fashion vocabulary. More is much better fits Siriano well, especially in this collection.

All that said, there are many garments in this collection that work for that consumer who wants to be noticed and noticed by everyone!! Meaning there is a variety of red-carpet-worthy garments to choose from. And this season, above all other seasons, Siriano got plus-size right.

In collections past, many of Siriano’s plus-size garments did not complement larger models. It was though the garments were just made larger without considering how those garments worked on a larger model. Siriano finally got it right in this outing. Everyone plus size, in addition the brand’s selection of larger models was on point.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Keep up the excellent work Christian and keep using supermodel Coco Rocha. She turns it out in every collection. Christian, you are a fashion star!!

—William S. Gooch

Marissa Wilson Fall 2023

February 13, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion should be fun. And for her fall 2023 collection, Marissa Wilson brought a tropical party!!

In case you are not familiar with Marissa Wilson, Wilson is a Guyanese American designer that draws inspiration from dance and the tropical locales of her heritage. For this fall 2023 collection, entitled “Rhythmic,” Wilson, who was once a competitive dancer, drew inspiration from the iconic African American modern dance pioneer and legend Katherine Dunham.

Once called the “Queen of the snaky hips,” by modern dance legend Martha Graham, Katherine Dunham infused her choreography with cultural and sensual movements that were endemic to Caribbean cultures influenced by the spirituality and religions of the African chattel slaves.

The Dunham technique centered around the freedom and isolation of individual body parts, something now witnessed in hip-hop dance. So, it is only fitting that Wilson would be inspired by Katherine Dunham, drawing upon Dunham’s freedom of movement which is so aptly evidenced in Wilson’s form-fitting garments.

Hand-painted prints are a key element of Wilson’s design aesthetic, and this fall 2023 collection expertly employs this element. Though the hand-painted garments conjure up images of sunny tropical days and nights, Wilson does incorporate some light knits, light tweeds, and sweaters into this collection. And Wilson ingeniously injected the current ruffles trend by embellishing some garments with ruffled rosettes.

Models aptly sauntered, danced, and shimmied down the runway in a collection that was designed to put some sass and adventure back into wardrobes. All this gyrating and undulating was capped off by fashion diva extraordinaire Pat Cleveland twirling and swirling down the runway like a fashion dervish with a caged bird of paradise on her head in a way that no can duplicate. Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s pastel plaid hand-beaded gown, black knit mini dress with pastel geo ruffled flowers, and yellow tiered skirt and ruffle flower top.

Images courtesy of Beverly Bonds PR

With this collection, Wilson proves that fashion can be fun and adventurous while still appealing to a wide demographic. Bring the fun and frivolity and let the sunshine in!!

—William S. Gooch

Atelier Cillian Fall 2023

February 12, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Two seasons ago New York Men’s Day (NYMD) returned after being sequestered due to the COVID-19 pandemic. And though fashion industry professionals were excited about the return of NYMD, it has taken a few seasons for NYMD to regain its fashion traction, so to speak.

The fall 2023 has become the best NYMD season to date, post-COVID-19 pandemic, with fashion designers significantly upping the ante when it comes to creating menswear collections that are projecting toward the future. And that projection toward the future is a literal expansion of what masculinity is and what the modern man will have as a part of his wardrobe.

Atelier Cillian’s NYMD debut occurred for the fall 2022 season; however, this fall 2023 collection promises to put the brand on the menswear map perhaps more than any other brand presenting during NYMD. Creative director Stephan Mikhail has had other fashion collections in the past; however, this new reincarnation is perhaps his most complete and cohesive attempt.

Titled “Mallevs Maleficarvm,” Atelier Cillian’s latest collection aptly displays Mikhail’s fascination with unusual and innovative artifacts of times gone by. For his inspiration this season, Stephen Mikhail referenced Heinrich Kramer’s infamous 1486 treatise “Mallevs Maleficarvm” about witchcraft.

In this collection Mikhail demonstrates what was assumed in the Middle Ages to be the pagan elements of nature juxtaposed against the metallic purity of the Roman Catholic church. All this is evidenced in Mikhail utilization of metallic silvers, facsimiles of armor, and monochromatic color patterns, as well as well-tailored silky male blouses, and skin-tight trousers.

Stephen Mikhail has always been acknowledged for his now-and-next fashion, particularly when it comes to men’s fashion. So, the design perspective in this outing is no surprise. Still, Stephen Mikhail has accomplished something quite unique in this collection.

While many menswear designers are pushing for a inclusive and expansive design aesthetic that includes a more binary projection, most fall short in this respect, creating collections that most men would never purchase for their wardrobes. Many of the garments look like costumes from some science fiction project or a Broadway show or rock concert. Mikhail, with his fall 2023 collection, has achieved what so few menswear designers are able to achieve, creating menswear garments that contain both the now-and-next aesthetic combined with a binary approach to menswear that a lot of men would purchase.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

Bravo Stephen!!

—William S. Gooch

Son Jung Wan Fall 2023

February 12, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

Son Jung Wan has presented at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) for several seasons. And while her collections contain interesting looks, often with a disparate array of fabric combinations, her current collection is, perhaps, her most cohesive collection compared to previous collections.

When attending a Son Jung Wan show, you know you will experience garments that mix and weirdly match fabrics and textures that normally don’t combine well. Sometimes these combinations work, but for Son Jung Wan it often doesn’t work well. However, this season Song Jung Wan did not concentrate so heavily on the disparate fabric combinations, focusing more of her energies on the silhouettes and color combinations.

This particular focus makes this collection, perhaps, Son Jung Wan ‘s most successful collection. That said, Jon Jung Wan does not abandon her predilection was employing unusual fabric combination, but this season the pairings are much better.

Inspired by the culture of the 1990s, this fall collection contained a wide range of day looks and eveningwear from suits to cocktail dress gowns and menswear. The color palette ranged from lilac, apricot, and galactic cobalt to pale blue, and black and white.

Though the silhouettes in this collection were somewhat simple, the collection possessed a futuristic projection. And with this collection Son Jung Wan is possibly expanding her consumer base beyond those niche fashionista that want the unusual of that standout garment. This collection with its simple silhouettes and toned-down fabric combinations will have a wider consumer appeal.

As with many Son Jung Wan collections, the stars of the collection were the brand’s outerwear. That said, there were several evening cocktail looks and gowns that would appeal to an expanded demographic.

Images courtesy of Rodin Banica

Standout looks in this collection include the brand’s vivid orange over-coat styled with gold sequined shorts, galactic cobalt double-layered silk asymmetrical dress with pink three-quarter sleeves, men’s galactic cobalt blue padded jacket with matching trousers, and galactic cobalt padded coat with gunmetal chainmail gown.

—William S. Gooch

APOTTS Fall 2023

February 11, 2023 by admin Leave a Comment

New York Men’s Day (NYMD) is the perfect place for APOTTS creative director Aaron Potts to showcase his men’s collection, even though Potts always includes several women’s looks in his collection. However, Potts collections are not gender specific, so having garments that work well on women fits perfectly into the brand’s DNA.

Perhaps, APOTTS is a glimpse into where fashion should be heading. A reflection of a world where the design aesthetic and the now and next of the collection stands out above gender specificity. That said, Aaron Potts has made this non-binary specificity one of the main points of view of his collections. And he performs that perspective beautifully.

The inspiration of this collection was Potts’ reflection of the fashion statement that most New Yorkers were making when he moved back to New York City from Paris in the mid-1990s. The daily uniform of New Yorkers during this time period was warrior black and grey. This fighting-the-elements and in-your-face emotions black and grey was worn with only a fierceness that New Yorkers can muster.

That said, with Potts’ fall 2023 collection, some of the fierceness and bravado has been replaced with hints of humor and wink-wink, as well as a bit fashion elegance. Though his collection was a serious fashion compendium of the merits of neutral tones, Potts did highlight his neutral tones with an injection of red.

Unlike previous collections, this collection contained more garments that were obviously designed specifically for women, Aaron Potts did not abandon his penchant for non-binary clothing. And as with other previous collections, Aaron uses his adeptness with volume to maximum effect.

Just because this collection continues to explore Potts’ penchant for volume, don’t expect Potts to bypass glamor and sexiness. Not at all. Potts has ingeniously found a way to find a way inject such the right amount of glamor and sexiness without centering sensuality in either the male or feminine camp.

What also stands out in this 2023 outing is Potts’ ability to combine ease of movement with a fashion-forward sensibility. With Potts ease of movement does not have to mean staid and commonplace. Potts proves that ease of movement and fashion sensibility can be compatible bedfellows.

Images courtesy of APOTTS

Standout looks in this fall 2023 collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s black and white stripped wrap around top with asymmetrical skirt, black cargo skirt with hoodie midriff top, black leather and knit turtleneck with peplum skirt and extended crouch pants, and black leather men’s jumpsuit with cargo pockets.

—William S. Gooch

Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo Fall 2023

October 16, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Manolo Blahnik, Charlotte Olympia, and Jimmy Choo, all major luxury footwear brands that female consumers want in their wardrobe. But what you may not know is that Jimmy Choo is more than a footwear brand. Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo is the brand’s couture bridal collection.

For fall 2023 Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo was inspired by Dante’s the “Divine Comedy.” The Bridal by The Atelier’s new collection [Paradise] is surrounded in the light of the Divine Comedy, Dante once said, “express the love and affection to your dearly beloved.”

Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo constructed and spliced each fantasy image with different textured fabrics and created the beautiful creation of The Divine Comedy on each design with metal threads in different shades of colors. The celestial astrological patterns are also added with a strong art deco style which creates a mysterious, noble, sensual, and ethereal aura to the collection.

Like Dante’s “Divine Comedy,” this fall 2023 collection divides the couture pieces between light, dark, whimsical fantasy, and heavenly beauty. That said, this collection is not for the wallflower bride. This fall 2023 collection is designed for the bride that wants to make a statement on her very special day. Any gown in this collection will make the wearer the center of attention, not to be upstaged by anyone.

Additionally, if you are looking for a bridal gown to go with your ultimate fantasy wedding, a wedding that will be talked about for days, weeks, months, and years to come, this collection has that bridal gown. You can be the celebrity at your wedding!!

There are so many great looks in this outing that it is hard to make selections. Still, as we always do, Fashion Reverie selected a few standout gowns.

For those brides looking for non-traditional gowns, two gowns from this fall 2023 collection were standouts. The pale blue gown with embellished winter blue branches with high slit and Elizabethan sleeves is the ideal non-traditional winter wedding. Add to this gown the brand’s black diaphanous gown with detachable skirt.

Images courtesy of Coded Agency

And for that bride that wants a fantasy gown, the princess gown with Elizabeth high collar and floral embellishment is the gown that meets the fantasy criteria. And though the gown is heavily embellished, it is surprisingly lightweight. Fashion Reverie knows because we attended the brand’s presentation!!

With Fashion Reverie, you can always count on our choices to be accurate. Like the Atelier Couture by Professor Jimmy Choo, we always deliver!!

William S. Gooch

Ines di Santo Bridal Fall 2023

October 15, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

You can also expect an incredible bridal collection from Ines di Santo, she never disappoints. Season after season, Ines di Santo brings to the bridal industry superb bridal collections that expertly marry fashion-forward sensibility with traditional silhouettes seen through the lens of what modern brides want. With Ines di Santo, there is always now and next bridal fashion.

While some bridal brands are still playing safe even though we are no longer living in a COVID-19 world of constriction and lockdown, Ines di Santo is giving her consumer an expanded view of bridal creations. And that expanded view is evident in her fall 2023 collection.

Inspired by a child’s whimsical sense of wonder, Ines di Santo set her fall bridal 2023 collection in a garden with a magical gazebo as a focal point of that floral garden. Additionally, Murano Chandeliers are the center piece of Ines’s inspiration this season as she’s long admired their unparalleled craftsmanship, sophisticated yet whimsical use of color, and ability to spark imagination. “All worlds are within reach with an open heart and a vivid imagination,” declared di Santo.

Every design choice in this collection is meticulously calculated and executed. A showcase of the most extravagant hand embellished details, subtle playful color choices, and unexpected textures and finishes all the while following Ines’s signature fashion, offering a study of proportion and a celebration of the feminine hourglass shape. While they combine to create a shimmering dimensional tableau, you’ll find that each gown can live as a standalone piece capable of illuminating any venue, no matter the scale, just as the chandelier that it was inspired by.

This season Ines di Santo dressed her customer at every jointure of her bridal celebration. There were looks for the rehearsal dinner, the reception, and of course the actual bridal ceremony. All done with whimsy, frothy reverie, and luxurious beauty.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Only Ines di Santo can pull of the difficult task of bringing frothy fantasy to her bridal customer without looking like she’s trying to hard or the gowns resembling costumes. That takes skill, craft, and experience. And Ines di Santo has it all!

William S. Gooch

Madeline Bridal Fall 2023

October 14, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are familiar with bridal designer Madeline Gardner, you are probably familiar with her bridal collection, Morilee by Madeline Gardner. With her well-known bridal collection, Morilee by Madeline Gardner, Gardner has forged a rich path of exquisite bridal collections that center around bridal gowns for that female consumer that wants elegance, sophistication, and glamour. With her new bridal line, Madeline, Gardner has gone a step further, well, maybe a few steps further.

Moving from the price points of ready-to-wear bridal collections to couture bridal collections—which is what Gardner’s new bridal line Madeline contains, is a risky venture. Sometimes, the price points double and your tried-and-true audience may not be ready for this new bridal adventure.

Whatever the costs, Madeline Gardner is up for the challenge. And here new bridal venture, Madeline, proves just that.

“The collection is inspired by beauty from within and the concept of being beautiful from both the inside and out. I design the [bridal] gowns not just to be stunning on the outside, but a tremendous amount of detail goes into the interior construction of each gown. I’ve curated the most exquisite fabrics that speak to the collection’s level of luxury and rich details. My wish is always just to make the most beautiful gown,” explained Gardner.

Like many bridal brands that are looking to expand their markets, Gardner’s couture bridal collections contain a range of good looks including looks beyond the traditional white or different shades of white. There was an injection of pale blue into this couture bridal collection as well as a black bridal gown with detachable black lace skirt.

And though there were some traditional looks in this collection, what stood out most were the looks that had a significant injection of modern sensibilities. As in last season, there were several bridal gowns with high slits, which would appeal to those brides who want to show off their embellished bridal footwear.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection include, but is not limited to, the fit to flare lace gown with bell sleeves, strapless pale blue floral ball gown with floral embellished bodice, and black lace gown with statement sleeves and detachable silk skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Nadia Manjarrez Bridal Fall 2023

October 14, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by the beautiful sunset she experienced on her honeymoon in Culiacan, Sinaloa Mexico with her husband, for this bridal collection Nadia Manjarrez injected an array of sorbet and colored skies. And this inspiration is made evident in the textures and embellishments found in this collection—recycled taffeta, Japanese nude tulle, 3-D leaf embroideries, floral fil copuè, and simple matte crepe bodices.

“Sunsets remind us to slow down, reflect on the achievements and successes of the day and prepare for what’s to come. I see this collection as just that. It has been one year since we launched, and [fall] 2023 was an opportunity to expand on what is working and savor how far we have come as we continue to grow and understand our customer,” detailed Nadia Manjarrez.

Expanding on the beauty of nature, Manjarrez put a strong focus on the textures found within it: billowing clouds, delicate flowers and lightweight feathers were brought to life by her in-house atelier team that hand-appliqued, embroidered and created dimension through 3-D leaf embroideries. Staying true to her original concept of modular pieces, the collection features removable puff sleeves, peplums, and oversized bows as well as gowns that transform into cocktail dresses with just one zipper. Voluminous ball gowns in a floral fil copuè and recycled taffeta provide drama for a bride looking to make a statement. Layers of shimmering nylon organdy swirl around the body to create a floating on-air effect. While Japanese nude tulle ruched over a simple matte crepe bodice gives a subtle twist on a traditional fabric and silhouette.

This is a collection that is for that bridal customer that wants something out of the box. Though there are some traditional silhouettes in this collection, Manjarrez expands on those traditions and injects her own sense of modernity and fashion sensibility.

Images courtesy of Nadia Manjarrez

Add to that melding of traditional silhouettes with a modern sensibility, Manjarrez, as in previous collections, infuses her Mexican heritage. This is evidenced in this bridal collection’s strong inclusion of floral embellishments and oversized bows and statement sleeves.

That said, what stands out most in this bridal outing is Manjarrez’s growth as a bridal designer. And this growth is a testament to her talent, her craftsmanship and her vision. Her customer base will not be disappointed, and her new customer will be excited!!

—William S. Gooch