Fashion News Alert: Billie Eilish’s British Vogue Cover, Andre Leon Talley Dishes, and “Making the Cut” Season 2

May 6, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of stickyfacts.com

Andre Leon Talley has been in the news a lot as of late. Always a bigger than life, outspoken, fashion personality, Talley rarely holds back his opinions particularly when it comes to topics around fashion and entertainment.

Talley is once again making headlines by spilling the tea on what some Condé Nast masthead executives’ salaries were.  Talley served as creative director and worked as a full-time executive staffer at American Vogue from 1983 to 1995. Later continuing his tenure at the publication as editor-at-large. Talley is currently a contributing editor at Vogue.

Talley contends that he recently found out that some masthead executives at Vogue were making close to $1 million a year. At his peak, Talley earned about $300,000.

“I just found out two weeks ago, from someone of authority, that women at Vogue, high, high rate fashion editors made close to a million dollars,” Talley told Tamron Hall on the “Tamron Hall Show.” “I never made that much in a year. I made almost $300,000, but people on the same level, maybe they were doing more work than the fashion photoshoots, were making $900,000 a year. They don’t make that anymore, but this is the, this what comes when you live in America, when you’re a Black person, you have to wake up and you know there’s a double standard.”

In 2019, The Intel detailed that there were very few staff salaries at Condé Nast over $120,000, even after a 10-year trajectory up the fashion corporate ladder. This crowd-sourced salary spreadsheet,” Real Media Salaries,” documented what hundreds of editors at publications made.

Is this disclosure Andre Leon Talley’s sour grapes or real truth-telling? Hmm, that is hard to tell!!

Image courtesy of cnn.com

Billie Eilish changes her look

Pop Star Billie Eilish’s career is meteoric. Not only has she topped the charts in the US and internationally and has won lots of awards, at the tender age of 19 she is now gracing the cover of British Vogue’s June 2021 issue.

Eilish has set a standard for defying gender stereotypes which makes her cover of June’s British Vogue more surprising. For this June cover Eilish is donning custom corsets and latex, Agent Provocateur lingerie, and catsuits from Gucci, Burberry, Mugler, and Alexander McQueen based on a 1940s pinup theme. She is also styled in a blonde wig.

The images from this cover and inside editorial has already gained 1 million likes on Eilish’s Instagram account in under six seconds. This feat has set a current record for any image on Instagram.

This cover and inside editorial has also become controversial for Billie Eilish. Fans of Eilish have always praised her for gender fluidity, expressed by Eilish’s baggy, non-gender specific clothing. Some fans feel betrayed by Eilish’s adoption of more in-your-face, feminine silhouettes in British Vogue’s cover and inside editorial, accusing Eilish of selling out and conforming to industry standards of feminine beauty.

Eilish clapped back at unhappy fans, “Suddenly you’re a hypocrite if you want to show your skin, and you’re easy and you’re a slut and you’re a whore. If I am, then I’m proud,” Eilish said, as reported in mashable.com. “Me and all the girls are hoes, and f**k it, y’know? Let’s turn it around and be empowered in that. Showing your body and showing your skin—or not—should not take any respect away from you.”

Image courtesy of dailyfrontrow.xom

“Making the Cut” is back

If you missed Tim Gunn and Heidi Klum in “Making the Cut” season 1, there is still hope. Amazon’s “Making the Cut” is coming back for a second season.

Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn are back as executive producers and hosts with supermodel Winnie Harlow and famed fashion designer Jeremy Scott as judges. There were also be guest appearances by Prabal Gurung and Shioni Turini.

This 10-part reality competition series will feature fashion designers competing for a $1 million prize with mentorship from Amazon Fashion. Designers competing for the top prize

are Ally Ferguson (Los Angeles, California), Andrea Pitter (Brooklyn, New York), Olivia OBlanc (New Orleans, Louisiana) Andrea Salazar (Medellín, Colombia), Dushyant Asthana (Jaipur, India), Gary Graham (Franklin, New York), Joshua Scacheri (London, England), Lendrell Martin (South Orange, New Jersey), Lucie Brochard (Paris, France), and Raf Swiader (Sosnowiec, Poland).

“Making the Cut” season 2 premieres on Amazon Prime on July 16 with two episodes per week, culminating with a final runway show and grand finale on August 6.

—William S. Gooch

Weekend Fashion News Alert: CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Reveals 2021 Finalists, Tiffany’s Announces Diamond Engagement Rings for Men, and Margot Robbie Has a New Gig

May 1, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of teenvogue.com

The CFDA has announced the ten finalists for the 2021 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. For the first time in the history of this award, all the finalists will receive funding. The finalists are the first to participate in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund’s new initiative that includes emerging fashion designers competing against former finalists, as well as fashion designers that have received funding from the CFDA’s “A Common Thread” initiative.

The 2021 finalists include Batsheva Hay of vintage-inspired, New York-based ready-to-wear label Batsheva; Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of 2018 LVMH Prize nominee Eckhaus Latta; Anifa Mvuemba of bold womenswear brand Hanifa; mother and daughter duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka of House of Aama, and contemporary menswear designer Kenneth Nicholson. The list additionally includes Jameel Mohammed of Afrofuturist luxury label Khiry; Queens-born womenswear designer LaQuan Smith; Abrima Erwiah of African fashion-focused social enterprise Studio One Eighty Nine; Jamaican-born, Brooklyn-based designer Edvin Thompson of Theophilio, and Californian conceptual menswear designer Willy Chavarria.

“After an incredibly challenging time for all of us in fashion, especially here in New York, we’re thrilled that this year we are able to support all of our finalists,” said Anna Wintour, global editorial director of Vogue and chief content officer of Condé Nast, in a press release. “It’s not only a vote of confidence in their talents, but in a brighter future for American fashion.”
 
“This year’s talented group of Fashion Fund finalists is facing an industry in the process of reinvention and transformation,” added CFDA chairman Tom Ford. “The program’s new format aims to help the designers better navigate and thrive in fashion’s future.”

Image courtesy of cnn.com

Also, a man’s best friend

Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend; however, why can’t diamonds be a great companion for men also. Well, if Tiffany’s & Co. has a say, diamonds will now be a very important piece of jewelry for men.

Tiffany’s has been a favorite place for women to acquire engagement and wedding rings since 1886. That said, the brand is now expanding to men’s engagement rings by launching the Charles Tiffany Setting, named for the brand’s founder.

Twenty six percent of Tiffany’s revenue comes from the sell of engagement rings. With the expansion into men’s diamond engagement ring, Tiffany’s is reflecting changing attitudes toward same-sex marriage and gender fluidity.

As reported in the Wall Street Times, Tiffany’s debut men’s engagement collection features a solitaire diamond measuring up to 4.3 carats. Styles combine either a round brilliant-cut stone with a knife-edge band, or an emerald-cut stone with a bevel-edged band.

“The brand’s potential is enormous and integrating it is very important for us. It really is our number one priority,” explained LVMH CFO Jean-Jacques Guiony as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “It’s a challenge and we think we will have to dedicate all of our resources to it.”

Image courtesy of WatchPro.com

Margot keeps time with Chanel

Margot Robbie has a new job. The Academy Award-winning actress is the new face of Chanel’s J12 Watch campaign. The J12 timepiece turns 20 this year.

Robbie joins eight other famous women which includes Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Ali McGraw, Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp, and Keira Knightley for this new campaign with each women detailing personal, life-changing experiences. “Everything has always been about seconds for a House created by a woman who knew how to follow her instincts,” Chanel explained in a news statement. “The J12 is the watch for these milestones, and the perfect accompaniment for every second.” 

“It feels incredibly special to be alongside such inspiring women in this campaign. Embodying the J12 watch to me is acknowledging and appreciating time,” Robbie said, as reported in a fashionnetwork.com article. 

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Michael Kors Looks to Broadway for 40th Anniversary, John Christopher Rogers Collabs with Target, and Judith Leiber and Ganesh Bag Controversy

April 22, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Michael Kors RTW Fall 2021 Preview image courtesy of WWD

Michael Kors celebrated the 40th Anniversary of his eponymous brand by looking to Broadway. With Broadway theatres still closed in New York City, Kors looked to the projected re-opening of Broadway in the fall to celebrate his 40th anniversary. The 40th Anniversary was a two-part event, starting with a trip to Sardi’s with the celebrity caricatures on the wall coming to life in the 40th Anniversary video. Kors’ cast includes Bette Midler, Cynthia Nixon, Bernadette Peters, Rosario Dawson, Alan Cummings; Billy Porter, Chita Rivera; Matt Bomer, Marisa Tomei, Ashley Park, and Ariana DeBose.

“We have all had such a longing for community, travel and experiences so the idea of my beloved Broadway being shut down and all the talented people being out of work breaks my heart … So, this is a love letter to Broadway; the theatre; live performances and to New York City,” explained Kors in a Zoom with European editors a day before, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com.

There was also a runway strut on a closed-down 44th street with supermodels Naomi Campbell, Carolyn Murphy, Helena Christensen, Bella Hadid, and other fashion model luminaries. There was tons of glamour and opulence to spare with final looks of metallic dresses, marabou feathers, and faux furs.

For this 40th anniversary collection Kors true inspiration from opulent styles from his archives. “It’s the opposite of this messy, slouchy and quite frankly undone look that we have all gotten very used to. It’s about stepping out, definitely. We are starting to hear people thinking about, ‘what will I be doing for New Year’s Eve? Where will I be for Christmas? I want to get dressed up when I go back to the office. And end my life in slippers and track pants!’ This fall will be about learning to walk in heels again, ’cause everyone is going to want to strut their stuff,” explained Kors.

image courtesy of neimannarcus.com

Judith Leiber brand makes a boo boo

Cultural sensitivity has become a big catch phrase in recent years, which is understandable when you consider several brands that have committed a lot of faux pas along the way, offending communities of color, women, LGBT plus and other groups. The list is long and too lengthy to detail in this fashion news alert.

However, the most recent insensitivity is laid at the feet of Judith Leiber. Known for her jeweled and bedazzled bags, Leiber is the fashion industry’s most recent perpetrator of cultural insensitivity by creating a handbag in the likeness of the Hindu deity Ganesh with the inside lining the handbag made of cowhide leather.

In the Hindu faith cows are sacred and any use of their skins or meat is considered a violation of the sacred. The handbag’s exterior was bedazzled with exquisite beading and semi-precious stones.

“We are deeply sorry to hear that our Ganesh bag has caused offense to the Hindu community,” Lela Katsune, president of Judith Leiber Couture, said in a statement to The Economic Times. ”Now, that we are aware that the leather lining in the Ganesh bag contradicts the Hindu belief system, effective immediately we will be ceasing production on this style with leather lining. Going forward, this this style will be produced with a synthetic lining.”

Harrod’s, which was the first store to carry the Ganesh bag, immediately pulled the bag off the floor after being called out on social media. Ganesh is the Hindu deity of beginnings and the remover of obstacles. Ganesh is worshipped before any major enterprise is undertaken. The deity is usually characterized with head of a white elephant.

Image courtesy of fashionunited.com

Another jewel in Christopher John Roger’s crown

Target has tapped three designers as a part of their upcoming Designer Dress Collection, which comes of the heels of last year’s success with this Target initiative. And Christopher John Rogers has been selected as one of the designers to participate in this year’s Designer Dress Collection. The other two designers selected for this Target capsule collection series are Rixo, and Alexis.

Of the three designers selected Christopher John Rogers has the most name recognition. Rogers known for his use of bold color and voluminous silhouettes. In 2019 Rogers won the coveted CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and for the recent presidential inauguration, Rogers dressed Vice President Kamala Harris.

These capsules collections from all three designers will be size inclusive, from a XXS to 4X and maintain a price point of $40 to $60. The collections will also contain 70+ original designs.

“We had to keep in mind a certain price point and make sure that a lot of different people would be able to access and enjoy,” he says, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com. “It feels like a step in the right direction to give more people access to the fantasy that we provide within our main collection.”

On his experience working with the Target team, Rogers adds, “[t]hey were always keen to try and make it work,” he says. “If we came in and said, ‘can we add more fabric to this or make something bigger, get a textile that was shinier or do an even more obnoxious print,’ no matter what their response was ‘yes let’s try it’ and that was the most fun part.”

The release date of the new Designer Dress Collection has not yet been released.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Ralph Lauren Reveals 2021 Olympics’ Closing Ceremony Uniforms, H&M Launches Suit Rental, and Tommy Hilfiger Launches Fashion Business School

April 15, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of thedenverpost.com

In less than 100 days global athletes will parade into the Olympic Stadium in Tokyo. Although these Olympics were delayed by one year due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the delay did not upend Ralph Lauren from designing the closing ceremony uniforms for the US team.

Lauren has long been the official designer for the US Olympic teams with the 2021 Olympics being no exception. The entire uniform look for the US Olympic team has not been revealed; however, the closing ceremony uniform images were released earlier this week.

The revealed closing ceremony looks include white jeans and a white polo shirt with a collar tipped in red and navy. There’s a red, white, and blue-ribbon belt and each athlete will top it with a white and navy windbreaker. An American flag is displayed on the left arm.

“As we come together to celebrate and compete, we must also embrace our responsibility to protect the planet we all call home. As part of this, we are proud to continue to invest in and scale sustainability innovations—dressing our nation’s best and brightest athletes in timeless clothing that has been consciously created,” said the company’s chief innovation and brand officer David Lauren, as reported in bustle.com.

In accord with the expanding sustainability trend, the fabric of the uniforms is made from ethically sourced materials. The polo is crafted from verified US grown cotton, the back patch of the jeans is a plant-based leather alternative, and the jacket and belt are made from recycled polyester. And the shoes and face masks are made from verified US grown cotton.

The 2021 Summer Olympics will take place in Tokyo from July 23 through August 8.

Image courtesy of H&M

COVID-19 prompts men’s rental suits

Depending on where you live, a lot of folks have had a least one shot of the two-dose COVID-19 vaccine. With so many people getting vaccinated, some businesses could be requiring folks to come back to the office and some businesses will be hiring new employees. If you are one of the millions of US workers out of work and hoping that the US economy will be recovering soon, you may need some new clothes or at least a suit to wear to those interviews.

Well, H&M is betting on lots of guys needing to look good for that first interview, even if that interview is via ZOOM.  This week H&M launched in the United Kingdom One Second Suit, a men’s rental suit initiative, “so anyone attending a job interview can make a powerful first impression.” This service will launch in the US on May 13 and will be completely free for the first 24 rental hours.

From H&M’s own research, the megabrand found that first impressions weigh heavily in getting that coveted job and that employees usually make a decision on the first few seconds of an interview. H&M believes that this new rental service “will tackle this bias by ensuring the potential inside isn’t overlooked because of what’s on the outside.”

Images courtesy of themorningjournal.com

Tommy Hilfiger expands into higher education

Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy Hilfiger continues to expand his influence on the fashion industry by launching the Tommy Hilfiger Business Fashion School at Elmira College. The Tommy Hilfiger Business Fashion School is the latest collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger and his siblings Andy and Betsy Hilfiger.

Hilfiger’s fashion business school at Elmira College will be a part of the college’s bachelor’s degree program in business with a concentration on real-world fashion industry experience. The program will launch in the fall of 2021 and offer a concentration and a minor in fashion marketing and fashion merchandising, both new to the program. 

“The partnership with Elmira College reflects much more than my personal connection to the area. The fashion industry runs on a never-ending influx of new talent, and this program will be instrumental in shaping aspiring designers and entrepreneurs through first-hand knowledge and experience in the business,” said Tommy Hilfiger, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “Elmira College has a national reputation for experiential learning in and out of the classroom, and this new program will open up exciting career opportunities for students as well as boost the industry’s talent pool.”

Tommy Hilfiger and his siblings have a personal relationship to Elmira, NY. Tommy Hilfiger opened his first jeans store, the People’s Place, in Elmira, NY in the early 1970s.

William S. Gooch

Amanda Gorman’s Vogue Cover, Lena Dunham Collaborates with 11 Honore, and Armani Looks for a Partner

April 8, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of cnn.com

Amanda Gorman is getting lots of traction in the fashion industry. Early this year she was signed to IMG Models and now she is gracing the cover of US Vogue’s May 2021 issue.

Always breaking records and knocking down barriers, Gorman’s cover makes the first time a poet is on the cover of US Vogue. This National Poet Laureate was styled for the cover and inside story by Gabriela Karefa-Johnson and photographed by Annie Leibovitz.

“What a joy to do this cover while wearing a piece designed by groundbreaking Black designer @virgilabloh that honors my heritage,” she said, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com. “It was a dream to be photographed by the indomitable @annieleibovitz & styled by @gabriellak_j who literally would carry me on her back & forth between set. Wow, my hands are shaking with love. This is called the Rise of Amanda Gorman, but it is truly for all of you, both named and unseen, who lift me up.”

Gorman is interviewed in the May issue of US Vogue by New Yorker writer Doreen St. Felix, and talks about growing up in Los Angeles, being a twin, and her trajectory toward national fame.

Amanda Gorman has 3 million followers on Instagram and has been offered millions of dollars in endorsement deals. Gorman explains that she carefully considers if the endorsements align with her values before she finds out the dollar amounts so that she is not induced by the huge amounts of money she’s being offered.

Image courtesy of pinterest.com

Armani’s future

Giorgio Armani has said that his brand would always remain independent. But wagging fashion tongues are implying that Armani may be changing his mind.

In a recent interview in Vogue, Armani hinted that brand independence “is not so strictly necessary” and that “one could think of a liaison with an important Italian company,” that is not a part of the fashion industry. In the interview, Armani detailed that a partnership with a French company is not in the works, not a partnership with Kering or LVMH.

The potential partnerships that are being considered are Exor, the holding company owned by the Agnelli family, and possibly other Italian investors. Exor owns a 24% stake in footwear brand, Christian Louboutin, as well as recently acquiring Shang Xia, a Chinese luxury group. In 2019, the Giorgio Armani Group achieved revenues of 2.16 billion euros.

Besides a partnership with a holding company, there is the question of succession. Giorgio Armani is 86 years of age and has established a foundation in 2016 to prepare for his succession. The foundation was formed to transfer shares for the Giorgio Armani Group to the foundation. Though Giorgio Armani has no spouse or children, he hopes to “pass down much of the business to his family,” as reported in Vogue.

Image courtesy of pagesix.com

Lena and 11 Honoré 

Collaborations are still ruling the day in the fashion industry. The latest fashion collaborative effort involves actress/writer/director Lena Dunham teaming with luxury plus-size retailer 11 Honoré for an exclusive collection.

This collaboration is the brand’s first collaboration since its launch in 2017. “This collaboration with 11 Honoré was about wanting to cultivate a space where the question of whether a plus body will be embraced by the clothes is a non-issue, and the clothes are not demanding that a plus woman hide,” said Dunham, in a collection pre-launch post on Instagram. 

The five-piece capsule collection launched on April 6 with Dunham collaboratively designing the collection with in-house fashion designer Danielle Williams Eke. The collection comes in sizes 12 through 26 with price points ranging from $98 to $298.

The collection includes a navy pinstriped blazer and miniskirt, a printed dress, a shirt and a mock-neck tank. The collection became available of April 6.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alerts: Maybelline Has a New Spokesperson, Nike Files Lawsuit Against Lil Nas X, and Willy Chavarria’s New Gig

April 1, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of mtv.com

K-Pop bands are all the rage. They are currently in such demand that mega beauty brand Maybelline New York has enlisted K-Pop brand ITZY as the brand’s newest spokesmodels. This makes ITZY the first musical group to ever represent Maybelline New York.

“We have always admired the Maybelline brand and are so excited to be able to contribute our creativity, positivity, and energy to their global community,” said ITZY, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com. “It’s a huge opportunity to bring new sides of ourselves to our fans and to remind the world that being confident and bold is in all of us.”

ITZY has been around since 2019 with their debut single “Dalla Dalla” peaking at #2 on Billboard’s YouTube chart and #1 on iTunes’ song chart in twelve regions. Their next album ”Guess Who” is out on April 30. 

“I have been watching ITZY’s inspiring rise and was drawn to how dynamic they are both as a group and individuals,” says Trisha Ayyagari, global brand president, Maybelline New York. “ITZY champions self-love, individuality, and self-expression to their fans and global community. Their energy is powerful, and I am so excited to bring these voices to Maybelline!”

For spring 2021 ITZY will be in Maybelline New York campaigns of Hypersharp Liner, Ultimatte Lipstick, and SuperStay Foundations campaigns in Asia. Maybelline is the number one cosmetic brand in 120 countries.

Backstage at Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2019 image courtesy of thesourcinghournal.com

Calvin and Chavarria

Willy Chavarria has a new job. PVH Corp., the holding company that holds controlling interest in Calvin Klein, announced on Wednesday that Chavarria has been appointed Senior Vice President of design for Calvin Klein North America and Global Essentials apparel men’s lines.

Chavarria has been employed at Calvin Klein since February, and in his new position he is responsible for leading the conceptual vision and design of seasonal collections for the Calvin Klein North America Apparel and Global Essentials Men’s lines. And this new appointment aligns with Calvin Klein redirecting its brand to appeal to the taste and styles of a new generation,

Willy Chavarria launched his eponymous brand in 2015 and has collaborated with Kanye West, Hummel, Dickies, and K-Swiss. Additionally, Chavarria has designed for West’s Yeezy brand, American Eagle Outfitters, Ralph Lauren, Voler, and Dickies Construct.

Image courtesy of hypebeast.com

Shoe trouble of Lil Nas X

Nike is suing Lil Nas X for trademark infringement of its Swoosh logo. This trademark infringement is based on Lil Nas X’s “Satan Shoes,” which are inspired by his “Call Me By Your Name” music video.

The $1,018 sneakers are modeled after Nike’s Air Max 97s. The “Satan Shoes” allegedly contained one drop of human blood in the midsole and printed with the biblical verse Luke 10:18, which refers to Satan’s fall from grace.

The “Satan Shoes” were created by MSCHF and reportedly sold out minutes after their release. There were only 666 items of the customized sneaker.

MSCHF’s lawyers declared “Satan Shoes” were “not typical sneakers, but rather individually-numbered works of art.” According to MSCHF, the “Satan Shoes” follow the MSCHF’s 2019 “Jesus Shoes,” modeled on the same Nike shoe as the “Satan Shoes.”

A Brooklyn District judge has ruled a temporary restraining order on the manufacture and sale of the “Satan Shoes.”

You look good man. I will be in DC April 15-18. You will love the way I eat ass and fuck bubble ass long and hard. You will not be disappointed!!

You look good man. I will be in DC April 15-18. You will love the way I eat ass and fuck bubble ass long and hard. You will not be disappointed!

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Neiman Marcus Get Refinanced, Margherita Leaves Missoni, and some British Designers Support a Fur Ban

March 25, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of Missoni

There are changes afoot at Missoni. Margherita Maccapani Missoni, daughter of Angela Missoni has stepped down as creative director of M Missoni, the brand that targets a younger Missoni consumer.

The COVID-19 pandemic has adversely affected Missoni, so some shuffling of the brand’s management team is necessary for survival. Margherita Maccapani Missoni took helm of M Missoni in 2018.

“In response to the reduction and evolution of consumption in the fashion sector caused by the pandemic, the company is carrying out an internal reorganisation of the design and communications departments, in order to boost the natural synergies and quality attributes in our collections’ design,” said the CEO Livio Proli in a communiqué, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

Though Margherita is leaving M Missoni, the brand will continue under the direction of an international team. Though Margherita came to M Missoni in 2018 she had served in other capacities at Missoni. She began her new job at M Missoni after the youthful brand was bought back from a licensing company.

Image courtesy of multichannelmerchant.com

Refinancing help for Neiman Marcus

Mega retail giant Neiman Marcus has found some much-needed financing. Well, to be more exact some refinancing, and refinancing once again.

In May 11, 2020, Neiman Marcus filed for Chapter 11, coming out of bankruptcy in September of the same year. The Chapter 11 bankruptcy eliminates 4.4 billion of the $5 billion in debt, as well as $200 million in annual interest payments.

Since coming out of bankruptcy proceedings, Neiman Marcus has struggled, paying heavy interest payments of its $1 billion debt. However, according to WWD, Neiman Marcus believes that its reorganization “provides ample liquidity and flexibility to respond quickly to evolving trends.”

“We will continue to be highly leveraged following the consummation of the transactions, and as a result, a significant amount of our cash flow will be used to pay interest and principal on our outstanding indebtedness, and we may not generate sufficient cash flow from operations, or have future borrowings available under our asset-based revolving credit facility, to enable us to repay our indebtedness, including the notes, or to fund our other liquidity needs,” explained the retailer.

Neiman Marcus also continues to struggle because of the lack of tourism from other countries to the US because of the current health pandemic. Additionally, many top fashion designers may option for a concession relationship with Neiman Marcus as opposed to current wholesale relationship.

Image courtesy of livekindly.com

A furless Britain

If you live in the UK, it may be harder to purchase fur garments. Stella McCarthy, Vivienne Westwood, and Erdem Moralioglu are lobbying to ban fun in the UK.

The Natural Fibers Alliance (NFA), an environmental justice organization based in the UK believe that a ban on fur would hurt the environment. “Synthetic clothing is one of the top global polluters of waterways. Researchers estimate that synthetic fabrics alone are responsible for up to 35 percent of microplastic pollution in our oceans; synthetic clothing ‘sheds’ microparticles when cleaned. Natural fibers, in contrast, are a sustainable and renewable resource,” stated the NFA in a press release, as reported in fashionunited.com.

Though Westwood, McCarthy, and Moralioglu had taken a solid stance against fur, many other British fashion designers don’t support their stance. Yves Salomon states, “the biggest issue facing the planet today is plastic, which I think is far more important than the debate over fur.”

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Alexi McCammond Resigns, Brandon Maxwell Pivots to Walmart, and Goodbye Elsa Peretti

March 18, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Photo by Jason Kempin/Getty Images for Politicon 

Alexi McCammond has resigned.  McCammond stepped down without starting her new role as Editor-in-chief at Teen Vogue on March 24.

Due to calls for her resignation, based on some racist Asian and homophobic tweets made while McCammond was a college student. McCammond tweeted earlier this week why she was stepping down. “Hey there: I’ve decided to part ways with Condé Nast,” the tweet began.

“I should not have tweeted what I did,” McCammond continues in the statement, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com,“ and I have taken full responsibility for that. I look at my work and growth in the years since and have redoubled my commitment to growing in the years to come as both a person and as a professional.” McCammond further wishes the best to the Teen Vogue team, before sharing her hopes to “re-join the ranks of tireless journalists who are shining light on the issues that matter every single day.”

Editors, journalists, and fashion industry professionals’ response to McCammond’s resignation, for the most part, has been positive. Condé Nast has not responded or announced a replacement.

Image courtesy of vogue.com

Walmart ups its game

Walmart is attempting to give its clothing brands a remake. Walmart private brands Scoop and Free Assembly are getting a makeover.

Noted ready-to-wear fashion designer Brandon Maxwell will collaborate with the mega retail store and serve as creative director of Walmart’s private labels Scoop and Free Assembly. As creative director of Free Assembly and Scoop, Maxwell will be responsible for the seasonal collection of Scoop and Free Assembly’s men’s, women’s, children, and accessories. Maxwell will also participate in brand strategies, production, fabric sourcing, marketing, and campaigns.

“Working with Walmart has long been a dream of mine. Like many people across the country who live in a small town, Walmart was the destination for everything where I grew up in Texas, including clothing,” said the designer in a release, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “This partnership allows me to bring the experience and joy of fashion to countless people who live in small towns across the country. Everyone deserves to have access to well-designed clothing at an accessible price point.”

Brandon Maxwell currently produces a line of face masks that are sold exclusively at Walmart.

Image courtesy of town&country.com

Ciao Elsa

Famed jewelry designer Elsa Peretti has died.  Known for her long-time affiliation with Tiffany & Co. and Halston, Peretti was the recipient of the 1971 Coty Award and worked with Tiffany’s as a jewelry designer for almost 50 years.

Born in Florence, Italy. Peretti came from a wealthy, distinguished Italian family. Educated in Switzerland and Rome, Peretti started her modeling career in Europe in the mid-1960s. After being invited to the US by the Wilhelmina Modeling Agency in 1968, Peretti later came to work for Halston as a fashion model.

In the 1970s, Peretti became a mainstay at New York City’s famed Studio 54. According to Halston, “Elsa had style: she made the dress she was modeling her own.”

In 1969, Peretti began designing jewelry for a small coterie of fashion designers in New York City. Peretti first hit as a jewelry designer was a two-inch bud vase made of sterling-silver, worn on a leather thong. This jewelry design was first worn by a model in Giorgio Sant’ Angelo’s fashion show. Peretti started designing jewelry for Halston in 1971.

In 1974, Peretti had her own jewelry boutique in Bloomingdales and in that same year Peretti signed a contract for Tiffany & Co. By 1979, Peretti was one of Tiffany & Co. main designers. Over her lifetime, Peretti designed more than 30 collections for Tiffany & Co.

Elsa Peretti died in Spain on March 18, 2021. She was 80 years of age.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Alexander Wang Claps Back, Incoming Teen Vogue EIC’s Racist Tweets, Misty Copeland and Under Armour Are No More, and DVF Eliminates Rental Service

March 11, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of New York Times

A lot of fashion industry professionals are disturbed by recently released tweets from incoming Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Alexi McCammond. This series of racist tweets  were posted in 2011 and deleted in 2019. However, these racist tweets have resurfaced and were documented in a Crossing Broad article. The racial tweets began to circulate on social media more recently in light of the #StopAsianHate movement, which grew from recent racist attacks against Asian Americans.

Last Friday, Condé Nast announced that McCammond has been hired as Editor-in-Chief of Teen Vogue. Many industry professionals—Prabal Gurung, Thessaly LaForce, Diana Tsui, Sally Holmes, BryanBoy, Kahlana Barfield Brown, and others—have expressed concern about McCammond’s appointment, reposting Diana Tsui’s tweets about McCammond’s appointment on their own social media platforms. Tsui in her tweets questioned why Teen Vogue, a publication known for its diversity, would hire someone with known anti-Asian sentiments, as expressed in her 2011 tweets.

Comments on Tsui and Diet Prada’s tweets continue to question McCammond’s appointment and are calling for additional apologies to the Asian American community by McCammond.

Tina Craig of bagsnob.com comments, “Who we were as teens may not reflect who we are today, but it’s her response to critics (now, as an adult) that has caused concern. And if she is to helm one of the most widely read teen magazines in the world, she needs to lead by example: Apologize and acknowledge the blatantly racist tweets, not dismiss them as merely being ‘insensitive.”

McCammond has made her social media accounts private and Teen Vogue nor Condé Nast has commented publicly.

Image courtesy of underarmour.com

Bye, bye Misty

Ballerina Misty Copeland will no longer be a brand ambassador for Under Armour. Under Armour has ended their relationship.

American Ballet Theatre principal dancer Misty Copeland served as a brand ambassador for Under Armour for the past six years, starring in commercials and videos for the athleticwear brand. In 2018 Copeland even had her own signature apparel line. And in 2017, Copeland was a part of one of several ambassadors featured in Under Armour’s “Unlike Any” campaign, which celebrated the achievements of women athletes without considering gender comparisons.

“We’ve watched her career take off and witnessed what an inspiration she is as a world-class athlete, setting an example for women—and all athletes—around the world striving to achieve their goals,” Under Armour said in an email statement. “We’re proud of what we’ve accomplished together during our partnership, and incredibly grateful to Misty for helping us evolve beyond traditional sports and into new arenas. We wish Misty the very best and look forward to seeing what else she will accomplish, both professionally and personally.”

This end of contract with Copeland is one in a string of contracts that the Baltimore-based athletic brand has cancelled in the past few months. Under Armour in February cancelled its $280 million, 15-year contract with UCLA, which it signed in 2016. Under Armour also cancelled its on-field licensing contract with the NFL in February.

Image courtesy of Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang speaks, finally

Alexander Wang is back in the news. Wang has finally issued a statement about his sexual misconduct allegations.

Since the model’s allegations came out in November 2020, Wang has remained mostly silent. Recently, the 37-year-old designer released an apology on his Instagram page.

In the apology, Wang expresses regret at any harm he may caused to the models and supports the rights of the models who have come forward. He also contends that moving forward “he will do better.”

In response to the 11 models’ allegations that Wang demonstrated sexually inappropriate behavior, Wang released a statement in January stating that the allegations were “baseless and grotesquely false accusations.” 

The New York Times reports that Wang has hired two attorneys, Eric M. George and Andrew B. Brettler, to represent him.  And until mid-February comments on the brand’s social media accounts had been disabled.

 The 11 male models that have accused Wang of sexual misconduct are being represented by Civil Rights Attorney Lisa Bloom. Since these sexual allegations surfaced, Wang has been mostly absent from the public eye. He has been quietly running his namesake fashion brand.

Image courtesy of facebook.com

DVF Link is eliminated

Like many fashion brands, Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) is attempting to re-organize her brand because of the COVID-19 pandemic had established DVF Link online rental subscription service. This new offering from DVF was launched February of 2020 and was an attempt into the tap into the growing popularity of fashion rental platforms. DVF Link was implemented by forming a partnership with management company CaaStle.

“While DVF is an advocate of the subscription model and truly valued our partnership with CaaStle, we deactivated DVF Link as part of the strategy to streamline our operation. Our goal is to focus on the management of intellectual properties and launch of a new dvf.com,” explained a company spokesperson.
 
“As we evolve DVF from a traditional retail operation to a digital business, we are prioritizing our resources. The new DVF will feature a tighter edit of products via a new ecommerce platform and a global community of InCharge women,” added the DVF spokesperson, referencing the title of the female leadership-focused podcast hosted by the house’s eponymous founder, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Andre Leon Talley’s Saga Continues, Gigi and Bella Hadid Return to the Runway, and Diet Prada Claps Back at D & G

March 4, 2021 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of newyorktimes.com

Andre Leon Talley’s housing issues continue. Last week, we reported that Talley was in danger of being evicted from the 11-room Victorian home that he has lived in for over 15 years. Talley contends that he entered a gentleman’s agreement in 2004 with former Manolo Blahnik CEO George Malkemus and his partner Anthony Yurgaitis that he would occupy the 1.5 million home, located in White Plains, New York, making monthly payments until he could pay off the cost of the home. Talley gave Malkemus and Yugaitis a $120, 000 down payment on the home.

Malkemus and Yurgaitis sued Talley in court in November 2020 for lack of payment, totaling over half a million dollars. Talley countersued in February contending that he has paid over $1 million dollars plus over $200, 000 in repairs.

As reported on Page Six, Malkemus has recently filed a counterclaim in New York Supreme Court. “Despite making periodic rent payments through the years, Plaintiff fell drastically behind, failing not only to pay the $6,333.33 per month rent, but also failing to pay the real estate taxes and insurance,” explains Malkemus.

Fashion designer Akeem Smith recently launched a GoFundMe page to help Talley with his back payments. Though thankful for the GoFundMe account effort, Talley has refused help.

Image courtesy of cnn.com

The D & G controversy continues

Is Dolce & Gabbana’s (D & G) defamation suit against Diet Prada violate freedom of speech? Well, that depends on whom you talk to.

In 2019 Dolce & Gabbana claimed that Diet Prada had started a smear campaign against the brand. This smear campaign used the D & G racist Asian 2018 ad campaign and alleged racist remarks Mr. Gabbana to further insult and demonize D & G.

D & G contend that Diet Prada’s smear campaign consisted of “serious and repeated defamatory conduct” aimed at damaging the Italian brand and costing it 3 million euro in damages. As a result of this smear campaign, D & G contend that certain celebrities—Cardi B and Kim Kardashian no longer want to be associated with the brand and the Chinese government canceled their elaborate runway show, as well as various brand partnerships never materializing.

After mediation between D & G and Diet Prada, D & G filed a lawsuit in Milan two years ago. Today, counsel for Diet Prada issued a formal, lengthy response—47-page answer—to the D & G lawsuit. One wonders why Diet Prada’s legal team thought it was necessary to publish such a long response. That said, Diet Prada has launched a GoFundMe page to cover its legal costs.

Image courtesy of vogue.com

Gigi and Bella strut again

Gigi and Bella Hadid are back on the runway. And they are back on the runway of one of the biggest shows of the season, the fall 2021 Versace show. Top models Irina Shayk, Precious Lee, and Vittoria Ceretti joined Gigi and Bella on the Versace fall 2021 runway show. This is Gigi’s first runway show since having her baby.

Donatella Versace presented her fall 2021 collection outside of traditional Milan Fashion Week dates.  The runway show was in the shape of maze the mirrored the iconic Versace La Greco house logo.

“I have realized that this is the future, the new way of communicating collections,” the designer said, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com. “Models are like actors, they bring the designs to life, just like when a performer portrays a character.” “During the filming of this show, I saw how important it is to give the models time to ‘feel’ the clothes they wear on the runway,” Donatella Versace added.

—William S. Gooch

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