NARDOS Spring 2024

If your tenure in the fashion industry dates to New York Fashion Week (NYFW) at Bryant Park, there is much discussion about the lack of glamorous fashion collections that send your heart facing and quickens your pulse. Oh, the glory days of the supermodels—Claudia, Cyndy, Naomi, Linda, Christy—and all the other glamazons of days of yore!! There is also much banter about the collections of Isaac Mizrahi, Monique Lhuillier—when she still showed in New York City—Ralph Rucci, and even Venexiana.

Those days are gone, but not necessarily the glamour. Enter NARDOS.

If NARDOS didn’t bring sexy back, she absolutely brought the glamor and sophistication that so many industry professionals of a certain age and era long for.  And the brand employs a design aesthetic that will also appeal to younger industry professionals and consumers. Think HBO’s “Gilded Age” updated to 2023.

NARDOS made its New York debut in April 2023, presenting its eponymous bridal collection. For those who attended this incredible debut, housed in the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza Hotel, could predict that the brands ready-to-wear collection would be as glamorous and auspicious at the brand’s bridal collection. And those predictions went beyond expectation during NYFW.

For the brands NYFW debut, creative director Nardos Imam was inspired by the charm of Venetian glass and its juxtaposition to blossoming flora. Entitled “Venetian Blooms,” this collection is a journey through a world where fashion becomes a canvas, each garment a masterpiece that marries the enchantment of petals with the grandeur of architectural inspiration. And there is no better place to take this grand journey than at the St. Regis Hotel, the venue for this spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection. 

Nardos incorporated the blossoming aspect of this spring 2024 inspiration by including floral embellishments on several of the gowns. There are also lots of floral prints in this ready-to-wear outing that also reflect Imam’s inspiration.

That said, what works so well in this debut ready-to-wear collection is Nardos Imam’s ability to marry classic, luxury silhouette with a modern sensibility sets her apart from many designers who consistently show luxury red carpet looks during NYFW. And what also stood out in this collection was Nardos Imam’s skill at picking the correct model for the correct garment. Something is that is sorely missing from many fashion collections this season.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection, and there were many, were the vivid tea-length dress in bright red, crafted from exquisite French lace, enhanced with a satin-faced organza rosette belt, white button-down shirt dress with a tulle skirt overlay paired with a corset and shorts ensemble, Venetian glass-inspired gown featuring sweetheart iridescent fringe, exquisite floral embroidery and sterling silver floral accents, and the V-neckline floral applique hot pink gown adorned with draped rosettes.

—William S. Gooch

Reem Acra Bridal Spring 2024

For her spring 2024 bridal collection Reem Acra drew inspiration from Old Hollywood romantic movies and love stories. Acra’s bridal collections have always conjured up images of whimsical fantasy and romance; however, Acra’s spring 2024 collection particularly includes visions of frothy, fairy tale-like love.

Fairy-tale ballgowns mix with sleek corsets. Plunging necklines and hidden slits accentuate the bride’s figure. A touch of crystals completes the looks.

Making brides dreams come true, Reem Acra has brought us a collection that goes beyond design and creates an emotional connection to the bride and her story. The dresses are timeless yet make an unforgettable statement.

And though these harken back to a time of innocence and guilelessness, they are modern enough to appeal to modern brides. With all timeless works of art, these bridal gowns could become heirloom gowns to be passed on to posterity bringing joy and grace to any new bride or brides to come.

The Hollywood collection brings back the element of dressing up that isn’t as prevalent today, making brides feel extra special. The world of bridal continues to be the heart and soul of Reem Acra.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this 20-piece collection includes the brand’s fit-to-flair sleeveless gown with small floral embellishments on the gown with larger blue floral embellishments on the upper bodice, bridal princess gown with deep decolletage embellished with lavender and yellow floral arrangements, Mikado silk gown with bell sleeves and huge extended pink bow detail, and A-line gown with detachable train and blue and lavender floral embellishments.

—William S. Gooch

Esé Azénabor Bridal Spring 2024

The Bridal Council has its finger on what many brides want, and in the U.S, brides are demanding more diversity and inclusion. And the Bridal Council is responding to this clarion call.

Dallas-based, Nigerian fashion designer Esé Azénabor is one of the answers to this demand. As were Rami Al Ali and Nardos Imam, adding to the Bridal Council deliberate push toward diversity and inclusion.

“We are excited to showcase in our first-ever Bridal Fashion Week, introducing our couture runway collection ‘Essence.’ I chose to create the ‘Essence’ line to really show what inspired me to become a designer which is creating lots of texture. From fabric manipulation, Swarovski crystals, to Ostrich feathers, and 3D floral patterns. Creating real-life texture such as the countless hand-beaded pearls for our one-of-a-kind brides. This runway collection elevates a form of uniqueness and innovation that we cannot wait to bring to our brides,”explained Esé Azénabor.

Esé Azénabor debut collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week took place at the brand’s new boutique on 91st and Madison. This luxury bridal boutique takes up about two thirds of the block which made a presentation at New York Bridal Fashion Week facilitate housing dozens of fashion industry professionals.

With models standing on a pink carpet outside of the boutique in luxurious bridal gowns, the extravagant bridal spectacle caused quite a scene of the Upper Eastside with tourists and Upper eastside residents crowding around the models on the street, taking pictures, and marveling at the brand’s high-end bridal creations.

And as the outsiders wondered and marveled at Esé Azénabor’s bridal compendium on luxury and glamor, so did the industry professionals inside of the brand’s boutique. That said, as is reflective of cultural trends in Nigeria where native consumers go in for embellishments and an abundance of glamorous statements when they dress up for events, so did Esé Azénabor employ this point of view in her bridal creations.

This is not a bridal collection for the bridal wallflower or conservative bridal consumer. This is a collection for a bride that wants to make a statement, where wagging tongues will talk about the bridal gown for seasons after the nuptial ceremony.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

This new bridal boutique in New York City’s Upper Eastside mirrors it sister boutique in Dallas. And a men’s luxury jacket and tuxedo boutique—from Don Morphy, the Dallas-based, Cameroon designer is set to open later this year on 91st and Madison.

Esé Azénabor keep the luxury, high-end bridal creations coming. The Upper Eastside is all the better for it!!

—William S. Gooch

Rami Al Ali Bridal Spring 2024

If you haven’t heard of Rami Al Ali, it is time you did. For close to a decade, Rami Al-Ali has been making incredible ready-to-wear red-carpet garments. Five years ago, he branched into bridal.

Rami Al Ali’s bridal collection marks the third time the Dubai-based designer has presented at New York Bridal Week. For his ‘White’ bridal collection, Al Ali explores the themes of femininity and modernity, curating an exquisitely romantic narrative through his unique 12-piece collection.

“This is a third time presenting at New York Bridal Week and each time we have presented we’ve received very positive reviews and feedback.  We tend to blend classic, timeless bridal silhouettes with a hint of modern sensibilities,” says Rami Al Ali. “We also wanted to introduce our premium luxury level to the bridal ready-to-wear market.

Establishing a collection for the modern-day bride, Rami Al Ali uses his renowned aesthetic to effortlessly deconstruct traditional looks and reimagine them with a new vision. A fresh and youthful nature personifies the collection with beautifully prevailing shapes and flowing lines that are built upon the fashion house’s prominent design codes. Traditional, princess-style gowns and voluminous full skirts are met with structured bodices, while elaborate architectural detailing is perfectly distinguished against sleek and sensual silhouettes, adding a majestic touch of contemporary femininity, and designed to echo the sentiment of a once-in-a-lifetime occasion.

Al-Ali’s inspiration for his spring 2024 ‘White’ collection was a modern, sexy twist on traditional classics. “I didn’t want to reinvent the wheel because this bridal collection still has some traditional elements.  We know that some of our consumers are younger, they want to show some skin. [Our younger consumer] is changing three or four times, so we wanted something signature along the contemporary route. In this collection we also employ some modern techniques as well as some architectural shapes” explained Rami Al Ali.

Images courtesy of Rami Al-Ali

Beautiful fabrics and exquisite finishing are elevated further by the unwavering passion and uncompromising mastery of the atelier. Al Ali’s unparalleled knowledge of fabrics is showcased through the use of delicate French laces, sumptuous silks, and whimsical tulle and organza, perfectly fueling the dreamlike fantasy that can be felt throughout the collection. Handcrafted Swarovski crystal embroideries are coupled with sophisticated beadwork, offering each look the same level of focus with detailed handwork to echo the hallmarks of a signature couture design.

The timeless color palette remains true to its bridal form, and resonates elegant shades of white and pearl, with thoughtful touches of silver hues in between. The fashion house has once again skillfully created a collection with elegance, and classicism, with a modern-day edge, allowing the Rami Al Ali bride to fully express herself while opting for designs that stand the test of time.

—William S. Gooch

 

NARDOS Bridal Spring 2024

Anytime you have a bridal or fashion show in the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza Hotel, you know that you will witness an incredible collection. And NARDOS’ spring 2024 bridal collection did not disappoint. In fact, it surpassed most industry professionals’ expectations.

Launching her eponymous fashion brand in 2012, Eritrean-born Nardos Imam in the past decade has become a sought-after fashion designer for her luxury, high-end garments. Her ready-to-wear, red-carpet garments have been worn by many celebrities. That said, her bridal collections have been recognized mostly in the Dallas, Texas area.

With this recent presentation at the Plaza Hotel, Nardos Imam is ready to take the New York bridal market by storm. This spring 2024 bridal collection was focused on taking timeless classics seen the prism of a fashion-forward modernity.

As most brides are in the market for more than one bridal garment for her very special day, Nardos provides her customers with lots of options for three to six bridal garments for their nuptials. Which is what modern brides now demand—rehearsal dinner, bridal ceremony, reception and sometimes, other bridal events.

Appropriate for the venue—the Plaza Hotel—that housed the NARDOS spring 2024 collection, there were several “Gilded Age” styled bridal gowns in the collection. (You cannot get more gilded in New York City than the Grand Ballroom at the Plaza Hotel.) Additionally, Nardos expertly employed many of the current fashion trends—statement sleeved, ruffles, big bows, and big floral embellishments.

Standout looks in the collection, included but are not limited to, the brand’s mini dress with floral lace and feminine bow, long sleeve silk gown with 3D floral feather shoulder details, organza neck lace gown with duchess satin bubble skirt, strapless Shantung gown with droop waist and mixed beading, deep V neck satin gown with 3D flowers and detachable skirt, and sweetheart beaded coreset gown with trickling feathers.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

The New York Bridal market is so excited that Nardos Imam is joining the New York Bridal market. As fashion markets aim for more inclusion and diversity, Nardos Imam is a much- needed representative for the market’s expanded inclusion.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2024

Options, options, options. That is what Ines di Santo gives brides for the spring 2024 bridal season. In other words, whatever you are in the market for, as a bride, Ines di Santo provides that for spring 2024.

Inspired by Haydn’s Symphony 54—also known as the ‘Surprise Symphony’—Ines di Santo includes several surprises in her spring 2024 bridal collection. As always with di Santo, there are lots of options for a variety of brides. Still, there are several surprises in this bridal collection.

Those unexpected inclusions range from bridal garments that work well on the red carpet, as well as bridal gowns that can be repurposed for other formal events. Standouts in this category are the brand’s RAMONE duet, the slinky gold PIZZICATO, and feathered CANTRELLE with its ombre pink color palettes.

This is also di Santo’s 54th bridal collection, an accomplishment in its own right. True to her signature DNA, di Santo’s bridal collections are always a meticulous and delicate composition of hand painted floral details, dimensional beading, and fabric manipulation techniques, all aimed towards celebrating love lived in full bloom.

Orchestrating her signature design elements and celebrated dramatic proportions, Ines looks to create a collection that crescendos into Spring with a vibrant display of color and texture. “Every bride should feel like a flower in full bloom, beautiful and perfectly unique,” explains di Santo.

Other standout looks in this bridal outing is di Santo’s pale blue NONET embellished column gown with detachable train, fit-to-flare MOTIF gown with floral statement sleeves, strapless blue SYMPHONY princess gown with floral embellishments on layered tulle, and the brand’s blue floral CRESCENDO gown with halter top and tiered ruffles.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Season after season, Ines di Santo does not disappoint and always brings to her customer modern, fashion-forward bridal gowns that not only serve the ever-evolving taste of bridal consumers, but also pushes that proverbial bridal envelop into the future. Keep doing what you are doing Ines, we love it!!

—William S. Gooch

 

Mark Ingram Bridal Spring 2024

Mark Ingram loves New York City. After all, he was born in the Big Apple.

Still, in spite of New York City being home sweet home for Ingram, the ‘City that Never Sleeps’ continues to be a source of inspiration. And, as New York City has, in previous collections, Ingram’s bridal spring 2024 collection looks to the softer side of New York City as a point of reference. As Ingram so aptly admits, “New York City [is] the keeper of my heart.”

That softer side of New York City for Mark Ingram is the carousel in Central Park, Shakespeare in the Park, Strawberry Fields, etc. Add to those more tranquil elements of Central Park Ingram’s homage to Lena Horne, Audrey Hepburn, Katherine Hepburn, and Grace Kelly, you have a bridal collection that is the penultimate expression of elegance and sophistication.

That said, this spring 2024 bridal collection does not reside solely in a reflection on the sophistication of Hollywood’s Golden era or a 1950s sophistication, this collection has an array of modern elements that would appeal to modern consumers. Ingram employs the current fashion trends of bows, which is this collection are elegantly placed or are detachable. Ingram also adds subtle hints of sexiness, making this collection a statement on how the modern bride wants to dress for that very special day.

This season’s gowns have moments of color in lieu of pattern, using muted boudoir hues that compliment any skin tone and feminine touches wrapped in a perfect satin bow. The sixteen-piece collection is luxury couture at its finest with modern-day sensibilities and timeless design.

Images courtesy of Mark Ingram

Standout looks in this collection, include but are not limited to the brand’s scallop threadwork embroidered strapless fitted mermaid with matching flared sleeve gauntlets with tulle horsehair trim at neckline and chapel-length train, crystal and 3D floral embellished tulle one-shoulder gown with soft trumpet-shaped tulle skirt, strapless short party dress with flippy A-line skirt, and ivory silk gazar strapless ball gown with corset constructed seaming on bodice with ruched Duchesse satin neckline with front bow detail and full A line ball skirt with pockets and  Duchesse Stain bows and button detail on train. 

—William S. Gooch

MADELINE Bridal Spring 2024

If you are in the market for traditional bridal fare seen through the lens of modernity and glamor, MADELINE’s Bridal’s spring 2024 has bridal garments that will fit the bill. Though these bridal garments may require that the consumers have deep pockets, it is all worth the price.

For spring 2024 MADELINE’s Blossom collection tells the story of a delicate blossoming bud into a magnificent bloom. Evoking the whimsical feeling of being in a field of flowers, basking in the sun kissed glow of spring. This budding collection is reflected in the flourishing designs growing into its beauty and enhancing that which is already beautiful—the brides.

For New York Bridal Week, the spring 2024 collection was staged at New York’s TK Steak house with a breakfast for bridal industry professionals as the models model this outstanding collection. That said, this outing differed substantially from the brand’s fall 2023 collection. There were black bridal gowns, very few detachable skirts with high slits and nearly no gowns in alternative pastel colors, except for the exquisite one floral print gown.

Still, the bridal collection was stunning with lots of attention to detail with a heavy emphasis on floral embellishments. Standout looks in the collection were the pearl and crystal beaded three-dimensional floral embroidery on a satin ball gown, three-dimensional rosettes on an allover beaded tulle over Chantilly lace ball gown, corset-boned bodice on a fit-to-flare crepe gown with sheer back, and geometric beading design on a tulle mermaid.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

This spring 2024 will have a lot of consumer appeal and can lasts in bridal boutiques for several seasons. Because this collection can withstand trends, brides and brides to be will keep coming back for more and more.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Kevan Hall Fall 2023

It is not common for an established fashion brand/designer to continuously evolve their style. In other words, what you see is usually what you always get.

Not the case with Kevan Hall. Though he has had a consistent presence in the fashion industry for over three decades, Hall continues to evolve and expand his fashion aesthetic. And his fall 2023 collection proves just that.

 

Inspired by the statement “Diamonds Are Forever,” sung by the iconic Shirley Bassey and theme song for the James Bond film of the same name, Kevan Hall demonstrated brilliantly how harkening back to an earlier era does not have to waterlog a fashion collection in an era long gone. Though this collection, entitled “Faceted,” is front, middle, and back heavy with familiar design silhouettes from the 1950s and 1960s, Hall elevated this otherwise vintage collection with some interesting modern elements. And voila you have a collection that modern consumers will flock to.

Playing off of the diamond or gemstone theme, Hall’s gemstone palette runs the aural spectrum from emerald and sapphire, to ruby and amethyst, each used to offer a sharp contrast to the buttery soft crepes and luxurious plush of Hall’s rich, deep velvets. Hall achieves a prismatic effect on many fabrics by using crystalline structured materials that refract light into a spectacular colorful treat for the eyes. Gold embellished tweeds give a continental nod to Parisian classics, while the high gloss metal accents lend a modern sleekness that grounds the two aesthetics definitively in the here and now. 

The gemstone theme has been used many times before; however, Hall’s fashion perspective on gemstones is unique in that Hall has chosen to employ this theme just as we have moved out the COVID-19 pandemic and consumers are primed and ready to go about their normal life routines which includes dressing well again and experiencing urban night life. That said, Hall dresses his customer at every jointure of her day from the brand’s metallic tweeds to a prism pantsuit, and a stripped amethyst jumpsuit. Still, this collection was more about colorful nightlife garments.

Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, the collection’s stripped amethyst jumpsuit, winter white tweed bubble coat, turtleneck racer mini dress with rose jacquard taffeta bubble, onyx diamante mock vest tuxedo and diamante tap short, royal floral guipure lace mice with long sleeves, and stripped amethyst off-the-shoulder ballerina dress.

With so many fashion designers of Kevan Hall’s caliber no longer presenting at New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Hall’s fashion shows have become one of the go-to fashion events during NYFW. with attendees including the fashion intelligentsia of the New York fashion scene. And Kevan Hall deserves all the praise and accolades worthy of a designer of his acumen and talent.

Images courtesy of VERY New York PR

Hall’s fall 2023 collection proves that collections free of gimmicks and tricks will stand the test of time; modern consumers are not fooled. Fashion sensibilities and craft will always be the ultimate winners.

—William S. Gooch

The Blonds Fall 2023

The Blonds, oh The Blonds, what better show to come at the end of New York Fashion Week (NYFW). If one of the closing shows of NYFW should be a sellout and bombshell of a show, then no show fits that bill better than The Blonds. And The Blonds closed out NYFW in a bedazzled, bejeweled fashion.

Inspired by the sex kitten vixens of the 1960s and Hollywood movies that promoted and supported that kittenish aesthetic—think Ann Margaret, Tina Louise, Sharon Tate, and even Jane Fonda in “Barberella’’—this collection was an in-your-face tribute to 60s sex sirens. That said, gamine models with big bouffant hair and cinched in waist were at the top of the menu for this fall 2023 collection. And as with all of The Blonds’ shows, there was glitz and glamour galore.

“It’s all about celebration of color, sparkle, glamour. And this is sort of a tribute to Elizabeth Taylor, one of our style icons. And the idea of falling in and out of love,” explained David Blond. And though this Elizabeth Taylor homage—she did love her jewels—was more of the 60s bombshell path of Ann Margaret and Jill St. John there was a measure of restraint and reserve to this collection that has sometimes been missing from other fashion outings.

What was most noticeable about this fashion collection—other than the brand’s obsession with gemstones—was the construction of the garments, which was a major step up from the construction and design in some previous collections. No hot-glued, encrusted bustiers and headpieces on this fall 2023 runway; the garments appeared very well designed and constructed.

Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, a two-piece emerald-green velvet dress with big jewels on the bust and below the stomach on the bunched-up skirt. a mini purple Y2K-inspired sequin dress paired with knee-high Louboutin heels, a white cowl-hooded dress with an asymmetrical slit up the leg with a diamond-shaped jewel in the center, and a structured black mini-velvet dress lined with silver jewels and a purple jewel on the bust of the dress.

Images courtesy of Purple PR

Is New York City nightlife or any major city nightlife ready for The Blonds post-pandemic? Probably not, but they should be. So, get ready!!

—William S. Gooch 

 

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