Fairy tale fantasies seem to be a common theme for spring collections. From fairy tale gardens to fairy tale–inspired garments, the whimsy and otherworldly quality of sprites, sylphs, wood nymphs and elfin beings have served as a source of inspiration for the fashion world for a long time. And with spring/summer fabrications that are sheer and diaphanous—chiffon, organza, and tulle—the fairy world with its light, airy quality makes a compatible bedfellow.
For spring 2017 Monique Lhuillier referenced a surreal fairy tale haunted by the last dance. Instead of elfin creatures anticipating an opportunity to frolic in merriment and mischief, Lhuillier conjures up images of fairytale princesses who linger while enchanted music causes them to luxuriate in the aura of magic.
This season Lhuillier appears to have gone back to an aesthetic that she does best, beautiful cocktail and red carpet gown that evoke fantasy and whimsy. In previous seasons, Lhuillier has widened her creative mien by embracing a modern sensibility that showcased a woman’s internationalism and versatility. And that new direction not only expanded Lhuillier’s consumer base but also an effective way Lhuillier could demonstrate her design acumen, craft, and versatility. Still, many of us missed the ethereal quality that Lhuillier was adept at injecting into her gowns.
For spring 2017 Lhuillier revisits that ethereal, timeless beauty that made us love her in the first place. Welcome back!!
Though Lhuillier has come back to her ethereal advantage, the looks this season is not a dissertation on what worked before. This collection is an expansion of that particular design point of view, but more youthful and consumer-friendly.
Many of the silhouettes in this collection are silhouettes familiar to the signature design aesthetic of the brand, but with a poignant twist. The most obvious injection of whimsical charm was the belted additions on many of cocktail dress and gowns. And though there were some looks with low décolletage and revealingly sheer, there was a nascent innocence to this collection.
Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/indigital.tv/vogue.com
Standout looks in the collection, and there were many, were Monique Lhuillier’s antique rose embroidered jumpsuit, black embroidered gown with cascading ostrich feather embroidery, rose gold floral embroidered o-neck long-sleeve sheath gown, and noir Chantilly lace tulle peplum gown with multi-layered tulle skirt.
—William S. Gooch
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