Anne Barge Bridal Fall 2014

Collages148For Bridal fall 2014 Anne Barge drew inspiration from depictions of ballerinas in the paintings of Degas. “I am an art history major and I love how Degas worked in pastels and as I was putting the collection together the colors looked like the pastels in the Degas paintings depicting ballerinas. So we named the collection after ballets,” explained Anne Barge.

Always known for her attention to detail and her penchant for classic, feminine silhouettes, Barge this season expanded her aesthetic to include looks that could appeal to a wider range of bridal consumers. She accomplished this goal by incorporating a broader color palette ,as well as having a more diverse range of silhouettes.

Collages149“This entire collection is layers of different pastels and fabrications from tulle, chiffon and organza to a variety of shades of white, blushes and butter crèmes, that read as white but really isn’t white” details Barge. “I also expanded silhouettes this season with silhouettes that harken back to the 1950s, an A-line silhouette paired with a full chiffon skirt  that has lots of movement … I also departed from my signature look this season with my Black Label line that we re-invented this season. Our Black Label line references the 1930s in its classic Hollywood point of view.  This line is for the red-carpet bride that wants to look like a celebrity.”

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Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were Barge’s Serenade bridal gown in tulle with Chantilly lace appliques and delicate embroidery with illusion bodice with bateau neckline, the Scherezade halter mermaid gown of ecru Chantilly lace with tulle godets lightly scattered with Chantilly lace appliques, the Garbo beaded halter gown with draped back panels, and the Hepburn elaborately beaded halter ball gown with tulle skirt and beaded applques on pick-ups.

—William S. Gooch

Kenneth Pool Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads39 For fall 2014 lace took center stage for the Kenneth Pool fall 2014 collection. Known for its daring and sexy bridal collections, this season creative director Amsale Aberra choose to combine the brand’s signature look with dramatic flair expressed in lace embellishments that adorned halter necklines and fit-and-flair feminine silhouettes.

Many of this season’s lacy looks were enhanced with miniature seed beads, luxe silk embroidery thread and Lochrosen crystals that added a sensual elegance to the collection. There was an also interesting mix of fabrications evidenced in corded lace gowns with detachable, cascading tulle trains, French lace combined with silk taffeta and tulle, as well as tulle gowns with crystal-embellished bodice.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection this season were the French lace halter, low-back gown with drop-waist tulle skirt, the tulle fit-to-flare gown with crystal beaded get and detachable, cascading train, and the French lace combined with silk taffeta and tulle.

With this more expansive point of view to the collection, Amsale has successfully found that delicate balance between youthful abandon and sensual elegance. Brava Amsale!!

—William S. Gooch

 

Christos Bridal Fall 2014

 Collages157If you in the market for modern construction with vintage detailing the Christos Bridal fall 2014 collection just might have the perfect gown for you.  With bridal looks that are assemblage of a frothy confection variety that doesn’t go too far, paired on occasion with a linear, structured point of view, this collection has something that could appeal to a wide range of brides.

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Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Creative director Amsale Aberra incorporated organza floral bows in the back of some the gowns—an embellishment that popped in some of Amsale’s other fall 2014 collections—that added an extra whimsy that though may have come across as a little cheeky, still did not go over the edge and diminish the collection. Amsale’s strong focus on airy silhouettes, intricate detailing, ruched bodices, hand-crafted silk flowers, and refined lace hems keep this collection solidly in the realm of romantic whimsy.

—William S. Gooch

 

Amsale Bridal Fall 2014

Collages153Contrary to conventional wisdom, for her eponymous bridal collection Amsale Aberra saw her fall/winter bride through the lens of an autumn softness as opposed to the wintry bride in more layered, textured fabrications. And Amale’s perspective worked!

Collages154As always, this fall 2014 collection contained Amsale’s core principles of simplicity expressed in modern, clean feminine silhouettes. All the elements that we have come to expect are still there, softly layered tulle, modern construction and fantastic fabrications like French Alencon lace combined with Amsale’s expert attention to detail and precision.

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Still, the collection did have some obvious references to chillier temperatures. Some of the lace embellishments conjured up images of falling snow and the French lace long-sleeve bolero is a nice addition for that bride who wants a slight protection from a winter chill. Amsale also included four bridesmaids looks in this outing that could work as standalone ready-to-wear formal pieces or but a great fashion-forward addition to any bridal ceremony.

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Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were Amsale’s tulle hand-beaded jewel halter neck gown with sheer back and full skirt, silk magnolia slim fit-to-flare gown with sheer neckline and back, bow detail on low back, tulle jewel, neck trapeze gown with low back and bias cut silk charmeuse slip and slik taffeta corseted bodice with straps, sheer back with French lace detail and full skirt.

—William S. Gooch

RIVINI by Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads33There’s an undeniable serenity about the coastal paradise of Venice. The Italian gem is a hub for the international, jet setting elite who wants to bask in the refined elegance and harmonious allure of the city. The stylish sophistication of Venice was the inspiration for Rita Vinieris’ bridal brand, RIVINI fall 2014 collection.

On the heels of New York Fashion Week where Vinieris presented a successful high-end, ready-to-wear capsule collection based on lingerie, Vinieris for fall 2014 Bridal Week captured the essence of the blushing bride who wants classic elegance funneled through a prism of fashion-forward sensibility.

Collages145“My inspiration [was] the tranquil mystery of Venice. The beautiful harmony of the gentle gothic architecture reflecting on the shimmering waters,” described Vinieris.

Exquisite detailing could be seen across the gorgeous gowns decorated in fine Italian silk and French lace with names like Donatella, Sofia, Stefania, and Giovanna for each of the nineteen looks. Plunging necklines, peplum accents, and glistening crystals were among some of the detailing and embellishments in this collection that is placing Rita Visnieris in the constellation of bridal designers which industry insiders anxiously anticipate season after season.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection was the strapless wide-leg jumpsuit, paired with an intricately embroidered tunic overlay, sweetheart-flared Italian silk satin gown with delicate waves of crystals from cap sleeves and back, and modern fit and flare lace gown accented with corded French lace appliques.

—Dana E. Givens

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads32Ines Di Santo has always created her couture collection for that elegant woman who wants other worldly glamour expressed through dramatic silhouettes. For fall 2014 Di Santo looked to the mythical city of Atlantis to funnel her vision of otherworldly allure.

Collages141Known for her signature mermaid silhouettes, this season Di Santo successfully paired these silhouettes with the city of Altlantis’ underwater theme that matched the buoyant quality of many of the gowns. Still, mermaid silhouettes were not the only looks in this outing, there were the traditional lace and sequined column gowns, fit-to-flare looks, as well as a couple of shorter cocktail looks with extended trains.

This season Di Santo explored Art Deco beading and architectural mohair that added texture and dimension. Di Santo also incorporated lingerie-inspired bodices to a few looks, which though slightly kittenish, added just that extra hint of sensuality that would appeal to a customer who wants glamour with a gentle touch of come hither.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Though Di Santo introduced a lavender hue to her fall 2014 collection, she mostly stayed with her signature palette of champagne, blush and cameo pink.  And the additional embellishments of crystals, beading, sequins, and feathers mostly enhanced the allure and regality of this collection. At times there were too many ideas, but Di Santo for the most part balanced her vision of otherworldly elegance with fashion-forward sensibility.

—William S. Gooch

Romona Kevaza Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads35For New York International Fashion Week fall 2014, Romona Kevaza presented three collections. Kevaza’s ready-to-wear, red carpet collection was distinguished by bold colors, sleek, streamlined construction and metallic hardware.  Having dressed Angelina Jolie and Guiliana Rancic on the red carpet, Kevaza’s fall 2014 red carpet collection is in step with an aesthetic that the brand has become known for. Standouts in this collection were Kevaza’s gold Duchess satin fit-and-flare gown with metallic gold belt and gown with gold metallic bodice and belt with navy blue chiffon skirt.

Downloads34Legends by Romona Kevaza, traditional bridal gowns, were a combination of sweetheart ball gowns with lace embellishments and crystal-studded belts, as well as mermaid gowns and fit-and-flare gowns with sequins and Alencon lace. Standouts in the collection were the Duchess satin, ruched fit-and-flare gown and the fit-and-flare gown Duchess satin with asymmetrical lace bodice.

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Images courtesy of Ernest Green

The Romona Kevaza Collection was highlighted by intricate lace embellishment and beading. In this collection Romona Kevaza was inspired by the timeless beauty of Grace Kelly. Standouts were Kevaza’s lace embellished column gown with innovative neck shrug and princess gown with intricate lace overlay and sequin and beaded belt.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Kelly Faetanini Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads31For fall 2014 Kelly Faetanini looked to the heavens and the bliss that can be found in celestial glory.  While in previous collections, Faetanini sought to evoke romance and a frothy sensuality, in this outing Faetanini’s aesthetic took an upward direction, literally, evoking dreamy effervescence and an angelic airiness.

Collages137Though this collection was a celestial projection of lightness and fantasy, there was still a lot of craftsmanship and detailed construction, a combination that Faetanini is beginning to be known for. Faetanini attention to detail and craftsmanship was most evident in the Mikado trumpet gown with sculptural bodice seaming and skirt godets, as well as the fit to flare Chantilly lace gown with godet skirt and asymmetrical re-embroidered beaded appliques.

Collages138Faetanini stuck with classical silhouettes in this collection from fit-to-flare gowns to the traditional silk organza ball gowns. Still, though collection was fashion-forward evidenced in two looks that incorporated rose ombre and the asymmetrical cuts, and raw-edged trim in some other looks.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

The Faetanini bride may like classical construction with the traditional fabrications of Chantilly lace, Alencon lace, organza and tulle. Still, she is fashion forward with a penchant for interesting bridal color combinations and innovative techniques that elevate her gown beyond traditional fare. And Faetanini is tapping into the marketing, understanding that consumer who wants a combination of the tried and true paired with where innovative bridal design is going.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Vera Wang Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads41 Who would have imagined that the classic scene from “Funny Face” where Barbra Streisand and Omar Sharif have their first intimate encounter would serve as the inspiration for Vera Wang’s Bridal fall 2014 collection. Well, it did!! And it was a successful reference, as well as references from the iconic film “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.”

With shades of pink as the color palette for this collection, Vera Wang elevated fall bridal wear from just another dissertation on shades of white in traditional silhouettes. And Wang distilled her pink palette from carnation and fuchsia to peony and coral.

Wang’s bridal sugar confections came in a variety of silhouettes from fit-and-flare to column dresses to variations on mermaid gowns. And in this outing Wang incorporated large floral appliques, ruching, intricate beading and layers of tulle, organza and netting.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Overall, this departure from traditional white was an overwhelming success for Wang, causing consumers to rethink the bridal color palette. Remember, not until Queen Victoria wore a lace white gown was white even considered an appropriate color for wedding nuptials. And after a century or more of white maybe the time has come for change.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads30Named after the Greek goddess of light, Theia, the bridal brand is known for its clean, linear, yet feminine silhouettes funneled through a prism of luminescent beauty that allows a woman’s inner goddess to shine through. This season creative director Don O’Neill looked to expand the Theia aesthetic as seen through a patina of gold, or the “Midas Touch.”

“Theia, the Greek goddess of light, was also responsible for giving metals their luminescent shine.  So, she predates King Midas in Greek mythology. Her gift allowed King Midas to have his golden touch, so to speak,” explains O’Neill.  “This collection is about gold being our new approach to light. We are giving the bride light and luminescence, but through a golden arch.”

Collages132True to form this collection was soft and glowing, but with that added touch of wintry textures and connotations. Lace embroidery embellished with crystals and pearls resembled icy snowflake configurations, satin petal embellishments conjured up images of gentle falling snow, and column silhouettes reflect wintry icicle shapes.

“When I have a theme in my head, I see everything through that theme. Because I was thinking of winter that is the reason we have a cape and some shoulder shrugs in the collection. I was thinking of winter in a very soft way, not the harshness of winter months.  Think of an early winter snowfall when everything is soft and delicate. So with our lace in this collection everything is light. We connected the cotton Gulpare back to snow but in a winter wonderland kind of way;” details O’Neill.

Collages133Though there is an emphasis on early winter in this collection, O’Neill did expand to late winter expressed in the somewhat heavy gold brocades in some of the looks. O’Neill elaborates, “anything that Midas touched became weightier because he turned everything into gold solid metal, so we also wanted that counterbalance in the collection with the Snow Queen meeting King Midas. You will see that juxtaposition in the softness of winter expressed in our Chantilly lace and silk snow petal embellishments meeting the heavier gold brocades.”

Collages134Still, the Midas inspiration was also evident in in hand-painted gold Murano glass beads that encircled bodices and gold lame and golden sequins that were detailed throughout several of the gowns. Looks that showcased O’Neill’s gold reference best was the ivory Duchess Satin ball gown with gold filigree lace bodice and pearl and Murano glass embroidery, the gold brocade backless ball gown with hand embroidered crystal belt, and the gold hand-embroidered mitered sequin and crystal gown. Other standouts in the collection were O’Neill’s sequined and hand-embroidered sweatshirt with silver lame trouser, and the ivory satin petal halter gown with hand-embroidered petal veil.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

With this collection, O’Neill demonstrates that though traditional silhouettes and white palettes are still the order of the day, some women are looking at other alternatives to the traditional white wedding gown. “The woman that I dress is confident and wants to be comfortable. She is not necessarily interested in sticking to the traditional white gown; she is just being true to herself.  So if she wants to wear a gold gown, she wears it because she wants to and is comfortable in it. Prior to Queen Victoria, women did not wear white on their wedding day, but it has become a tradition that we’ve stuck to. But there are women who are breaking away from that, and what we are doing in this collection is giving women that option.”

So, there you have it!! Now, is the gold lame tuxedo for the groom, next? Hmm, let’s rethink that one.

—William S. Gooch

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