Christos Bridal Spring 2015 and Kenneth Pool Bridal Spring 2015

April 14, 2014 by Leave a Comment
Christos Spring 2015

Christos Spring 2015

In presenting two of her three bridal lines back to back on April 12 during New York International Bridal Week, bridal designer Amsale Aberra made a statement about two seemingly opposite personas of modern brides.

The Christos line, which Aberra acquired in 2005, has become synonymous with romance. The Kenneth Pool line, which Aberra created and launched in 2003, has long been known for drama. (Her main eponymous line, launched in 1985, is being reviewed separately.) But the directions Aberra took the Christos and Kenneth Pool lines for spring 2015 speak volumes about today’s brides.

For spring 2015, the Christos line was the essence of sweet and fresh vitality. Aberra’s show notes described the look as “an updated take on modern vintage.” What that means when it comes to bridal, at least in the Christos line, there is a very soft, light and airy freshness.

Christos Spring 2015

Christos Spring 2015

There is no doubt that the Christos bride is sweet but never cloying or saccharine or frothy. The elegance and attention to detail that is a hallmark of all of the Amsale collections is ever present. Here, the chief detail is a profusion of tiny floral appliques accented with crystals as with a scattering of little beaded flowers that enlivened a fit-to-flare gown with an illusion neckline and cap sleeves. A more extravagant display of the flowers turned a blush beaded strapless fit-to-flare gown into a shimmering showstopper with layers of tulle and lace, especially point d’ esprit, adding to the romantic vision of the Christos bride.

By contrast, the Kenneth Pool bride, always dramatic, reflects the modern bride who has the confidence to show off her curves. Plunging fronts and backs cut down-to-there were just part of the stylistic repertoire employed for this sexy bride.

Kenneth Pool Spring 2015

Kenneth Pool Spring 2015

Here, Aberra’s skill for detail could be seen in her breathtaking use of sheer illusion. The finely tailored sheer material allowed Aberra to create the effect of lace appliques climbing up a shoulder or snaking down the middle of an otherwise seemingly bare back.

Some of the standouts among the 10 gowns shown from the Pool line included a corded lace fit-to-flare gown with a deep V front and sheer back heightened by a single row of buttons inviting the eye down to the tailbone. Another va-va-voom gown was a dropped waist tulle ball gown with corded lace applique across the back.

Kenneth Pool Spring 2015. Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Kenneth Pool Spring 2015. Images courtesy of Ernest Green

And yet, for all of the sex appeal of the Pool gowns, they never devolved into the realm of tacky. The taste quotient is a crucial must-have for this bride and Aberra, thankfully knows just how to find the right balance. These are gowns that are alluring but still classy.

—Karyn D. Collins

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Isabelle Armstrong Bridal Spring 2015

April 12, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Downloads237For spring 2015 Isabelle Armstrong showed a beautiful collection that was modern, fresh and on trend. Drawing inspiration from the Spanish basilica, Sagrada Familia, her gowns had lots of architectural details and long, clean lines.

Showcasing traditional whites and crèmes, Armstrong expanded her color palette for spring 2015 by incorporating blush, pink and nectar.  This expanded color palette beyond traditional white is a trend that popped up several spring 2015 bridal collections through New York International Bridal Week.

Images courtesy of blog.theknot.com

Images courtesy of blog.theknot.com

This collection also included gowns in sumptuous materials such as French lace, silk chiffon, organza and tulle. Standout pieces include a strapless, blush gown with a full skirt and a silk shift cocktail dress with a detachable ostrich feather skirt (which would both look fab on the red carpet of award season) With these gorgeous, strapless, body-conscious creations in trumpet and mermaid silhouettes making every woman that wears one feel like a goddess on her special day and making Isabelle Armstrong a bridal sensation!

—Renessta Olds

 

Rivini by Rita Vinieris Bridal Spring 2015

April 12, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Downloads244For inspiration for her Rivini by Rita Vinierisbridal spring 2015 collection, Rita Vinieris looked to a world without selfies and smartphones and how we save memories without the use of new technology.  “In this era of smartphones and selfies I have become obsessed with how we saved our precious memories without the use of a camera … This is how I came across photograms. A photogram is a photographic image made without of camera by placing objects directly onto a surface and then exposing the to light. The result is a negative shadow image that shows variations in tone. This collection combines that with today’s 3-D printing technology. I think the results is both modern and timeless,” details Rita Vinieris.

Collages329Always known for pushing the proverbial bridal envelope, Vinieris has established herself as a bridal and eveningwear designer that is always looking for new and innovative ways to expand her customer demographic and re-image the way we look at bridal and eveningwear garments. In this spring 2015 collection, Vinieris had done just that. Vinieris has taken the motif of 3-D printing technology and employed that motif in designs that have 3-D embroidery techniques and textural patterns.

Lace is not just lace in this collection. Lace is layered and used to simulate perspective and Vinieris’ motif of 3-D printing. Vinieris also effectively uses digital printing on organza, tulle, and leather to bring a 3-D effect of floral and crystal embellishments to her spring 2015 collection.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standouts in this collection are Vinieris’ silk tissue spiraling ball gown with 3-D floral crystal photogram embroidery on a multi-layered soft diaphanous skirt, a 3-D photogram plisse gown of organza, tulle and leather, and an embroidered photogram floral pattern bodice on silk faille.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Spring 2015

April 11, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Downloads227For spring 2015 Theia creative director Don O’Neill was inspired by the ancient Irish legend of the Tuatha de Danaann. “I am from a little seaside village in Ireland and we have a legend of the ruin of an ancient church that lies beneath the waters of the bay of my seaside home. Ancient folklore believes that fairy folk would come up from that submerged church and come onshore in a moonlight procession. For this collection, I imagined by fairy goddesses coming to life and coming through that portal and how they would look today if they came on shore,” explains O’Neill.

In this outing O’Neill realized this fairy inspiration in shimmery silver and white gowns in a variety of silhouettes and fabrications. “The influences were both Celtic and ocean inspired. The final gown was to look wet as though having just emerged from the water and to represent the moonlight shimmery beams. Several other gowns were embroidered with rivulets of pearls and silvery beads running down the dress with dimensions of paillettes and petals held down by pearls encrusted over the dress to conjure up images of a sea goddess. There were also lots of Celtic spirals and scrolls in the overcoats. And of course the head pieces were very Celtic inspired,” details O’Neill

Collages304Every bridal season O’Neill attempts to push the proverbial bridal envelope toward designs that re-imagine what a wedding gown can be. And for spring 2015, O’Neill’s bride transcends traditional bridal fare by embracing a more fashion-forward themed approach to nuptial attire.

All this is evidenced in gowns that are attracting a wider bridal demographic to O’Neill’s creations. From those brides who want a more traditional gown with just a hint of innovative detailing to those young brides who are thinking out of the box and want that very special showstopper gown that conjures up images of incandescent elegance while still demonstrating the future direction of bridal design.

“I added a crop top paired with a lame ball skirt because that speaks to a younger consumer. A lot of brides are young and young brides often want to look sexy. So, this season I incorporated a crop top that shows only a sliver of belly, keeping the look appropriate but still sexy. You absolutely know she is in a bridal gown, but she is still young and cool.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were O’Neill’s micro cup sequin and glass beaded halter gown with silk organza beaded scroll overcoat, silver floral jacquard crop to with tulle over lame ball skirt, illusion lace gown with embroidered tulle overskirt with crystal belt, and mirror sequin, and glass beaded gown with scrolling sequin overcoat.

—William S. Gooch

Mira Zwillinger Bridal Spring 2015

April 10, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Collages312Mira Zwillinger’s debut collection for New York International Bridal Week  harkened back to old Hollywood glamour. Hand picked fabrics from Paris and Milan and handmade, custom-created gowns conspired to make the Israel-based  Zwillinger an interesting and much-needed addition to the New York bridal market. With gowns embroidered and appliquéd with crystals over sheer bodices, removable organza jackets and jeweled belts just add layer upon layer of femininity for the sophisticated bride.

Like many bridal designers this season, Zwillinger picked up on the trend of very sheer illusions around the neckline and back, as well as cropped tops matched with silk taffeta skirts. Zwillinger’s couture techniques married with her modern approach to bridal design sets her solidly in the company of fashion-forward designers who looking to expand their market beyond the standard bridal customer.

Images courtesy of Pressley Anne Slack

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

Stand-out pieces include a one-shouldered, sleeveless sheer bodice dress with rose appliqués and a chiffon pleated skirt. Another stand-out look was the Lysha gown long sleeve with a deep V plunge that was both shirred and had sequined appliqués strategically placed all over it.

—Renessta Olds

 

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Backstage Fall 2014

February 27, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week fall 2014 is over, as well as fashion weeks in London, Milan, and Paris, memories still linger. We all love the way the collections look on the runway, and the way each model brings that extra something that makes us look at silhouettes, construction, fabrications and the designer’s point of view in new ways. Still, it is not all sparkle and shine.

In Fashion Reverie’s unique way of presenting texture, nuance and a broader spectrum of perspectives and with the assistance of Fashion Reverie’s photographer Ken Jones, we demonstrate that Fashion Week is a collaborative effort. Putting a runway show together is a lot of hard work and without the collaborative efforts of makeup/hair stylists, dressers, the ground crew, PR firms, the technical crew, and the models and designers themselves, the stunning presentations and runway shows that we hold near and dear to our hearts would not happen.

Sally LaPointe Fall 2014

 

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Hair, makeup, that final touchup; smile girls it is just the beginning of a long week.

Sally LaPointe Fall 2014

I am ready for my close-up. Hey, mom I'm a star!!

I am ready for my close-up. Hey, mom I’m a star!!

Tadashi Shoji Fall 2014

For Tadashi this season, it is about the hair.

Momma said there would be days like this!!

Venexiana Fall 2014

Fashion Reverie's team at work and play!!

Fashion Reverie’s team at work and at play!!

Venexiana Fall 2014

There is exquisite beauty all around!!

There is exquisite beauty all around!!

Czar Galindo Fall 2014

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From the front or from the back, it all looks good!!

 

Zang Toi Fall 2014

Zang Toi's brings classic Hollywood glamour back!!

Zang Toi brings classic Hollywood glamour back!!

Ivan Aguilar Fall 2014

Face, give me face, give me lots of beautiful faces!!

Face, give me face, give me lots of beautiful faces!!    All images courtesy of Ken Jones

—Staff

 

 

 

Michael Kors Fall 2014

February 15, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Collages227Michael Kors has become a household name, billion-dollar businessman by finding just the right balance between giving his customers what they want and showing them what they need. The results are clothes that women crave. You want to look like this, dress like this. You just didn’t know it until Kors showed you the way.

For the fall 2014 collection, Michael Kors continued along the easy, breezy road he led his fans for spring. Kors’ show notes referred to a Northern California vibe. Here were clothes that would make women from anywhere around the world feel like a modern California girl, chilling out on a fall day in front of an outdoor fire pit before she heads out to dinner.

Downloads163There were plenty of light and swishy dresses and skirts in filmy-looking prints like a slate python print dress and a taupe metallic floral coupe dress. A dark chocolate fil coupe and skirt caught the light. Looks in camel and winter white softened what could have been an otherwise austere color palette of charcoal, light grey, black and chocolate.

Collages226More than anyone, this modern California girl on Kors runway was a channeling of the rocker Stevie Nicks in all her gypsyish glory. But rather than eccentric, Kors made it sexy and now. The peasant-style tops and skirts were inviting and alluring, especially when Kors turned up the sexy with surprises like his suede-fringed skirts. It was a clever twist on vintage suede-fringed jackets.

Of course California girls are also supposed to be nature lovers, so it may have seemed odd to see so much fur on the Kors runway. But then again, this is Michael Kors and his brand of urban sophistication almost always includes fur. So yes, it was everywhere from tie-dye scarves to vests and shrugs.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Lovers of luxe will love the look of the smoke-colored fox cape—paired with cashmere sweatpants and a taupe mink popover also paired with cashmere sweatpants.

Clearly, in the Kors universe, relaxed and luxury go together in perfect, elegant harmony.

—Karyn D. Collins

Pamella Roland Fall 2014

February 14, 2014 by Leave a Comment

Collages213Pamella Roland’s fall 2014 collection was a celebration of the razzle dazzle side of fashion.

Roland has always had a penchant for putting a glossy sheen on the all-American look. Invariably her collections are the embodiment of sleek and chic with spectacular pops of color and glitter for evening. But Roland’s oeuvre is a unique one. The Roland muse is a woman who wields real power, not the fictional brand. One pictures her as being equally at home in the boardroom or a legislature office as she might be enjoying the corporate box at the opera or playing host at a company-sponsored benefit.

Downloads159Increasingly though, Roland has chosen to put the emphasis, with her shows at least, on eveningwear. And that was the case with her fall 2014 runway show. In the Roland world, fall 2014 will be one glittery, shimmering season. The corporate queens may have to look elsewhere for their daytime looks, but there were plenty of nighttime options offered in this Art Deco–inspired collection.

Actually, at a whopping 47 looks, Roland offered perhaps too many options period. Clearly, Roland forgot the old but very wise showbiz adage of “leave ‘em wanting more.”

Of course there were plenty of beautiful pieces to savor and even some surprises such as a midnight blue tile sequin parka with black fox trim that would tempt many women to throw caution and common sense to the winds and wear it even if snowing. It’s that tempting. So too was a pewter metallic sequin cowl back dress that looked like alligator skin.

Collages215Neither seemed particularly reminiscent of Art Deco, by the way, but so what. The more literal Art Deco pieces, which featured a cityscape cut-out seemed forced.

Still there were plenty of “wow” moments in the collection that did seem to fit Roland’s stated inspiration—a form-fitting, flapper-esque cocktail dress and later a gown decorated with beaded fringe. And the use of a deep-V neckline and a recurrence of that V-shape elsewhere—sides, backs, fronts—were used well to focus the eye.

Images courtesy of Presley Anne Slack

Images courtesy of Presley Anne Slack

This was especially the case with a an ultra sleek, night sky navy crepe back satin dress with black seamed tulle sleeves and back. Here was a look that showed Roland at her sleek and chic best, no extra shimmer required.

—Karyn D. Collins

 

Zang Toi Fall 2014

February 14, 2014 by 1 Comment

Collages262If you are looking for opulence, sophistication and elegance, then Zang Toi is the designer for you. The larger question that might be ruminating in the minds of many fashion pundits is the now and next of Zang Toi’s luxury point of view.

Zang Toi puts on a great fashion show. There is glamour, excitement, theatre, and audience appeal. And he is one of the few designers during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week that gets a standing ovation.  But, fashion is more than theatrical presentation and bravos; fashion is about what is current and what is next. And Zang Toi in his current collection is tittering toward the former and not the later.

Collages261For fall 2014, Zang Toi was inspired by 1930s Shanghai, the Paris of the Orient. There were some tried-and-true Asian influences in this collection from Mandarin collars and modern qi pao dresses to opium silk brocades and silk gazar, as well as a color palette that included jade and royal burgundy.

Collages263Toi was most successful with the earlier part of his fall 2014 collection that was a smart combination of glenplaid trousers, suit coats and trench coats with an obvious 1930’s slick sophistication that could easily work for the modern woman. However, when Toi transitioned to eveningwear, perhaps, he relied too heavily on the big dramatic showstoppers and fanfares that have worked in the past.

Downloads173Though Zang Toi’s eveningwear looks were beautiful and guaranteed showstoppers, the eveningwear lacked a buoyant, youthful projection. Zang Toi’s client base has always been the other half of rich bankers, oilmen and the ladies who lunch set. Still, Toi must keep in mind that 45 is the new 30, and the new 30 dresses like a much younger consumer.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

There were some looks in the collection that demonstrated that Toi is not completely enraptured by the French couture world of the 1980s. His Loro Piana cashmere herringbone short trench coat, and brilliant jade ostrich feather pouf sprinkled with onyx crystals showed that at times Zang Toi is in step with what consumer’s want to wear.

—William S. Gooch

 

Betsey Johnson Fall 2014

February 14, 2014 by 2 Comments

Downloads165If you want to get your fashion party mojo going, go to a Betsey Johnson runway show. She never disappoints when it comes to a festive celebration seen through the lens of fun, frolicky, and sometimes raucous, party clothes.

And after more than forty years of creating collections, Betsey Johnson knows her customer extremely well. She knows where her consumer is going, what kind of parties she likes, her taste in colors and fabrics and more importantly how far to push it; which in most cases is through the roof.

Collages235For fall 2014, it was classic Betsey Johnson all the way, giving her rock n’ roll, party girl lots of options. Though there was nothing drastically new about this collection—no new silhouettes, innovative construction, or new textiles—the collection was not dated or old. And that’s saying a lot in that Betsey referenced American Hustle or the wild antics of 70s disco.

Collages234Betsey found a way to make that hey, beep, beep stylish sex vixen very 2014 with still a wink and nod toward the “bad girls” of the 1970s. Now it would be best advised not to wear one of the head-to-toe creation in this collection at certain time day. You don’t want to be a mistaken for a certain kind of “working girl.” Still, there was lots of fun and great separates that can add that special kind of Betsey Johnson bling to your fall 2014 wardrobe.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

The real standout in this collection was color, and lots of it. Shiny color, sparkly color, neon color and bold, bold color, especially Betsey’s color of the moment, RED!!  That’s right, hot, saucy, sizzling, in-your-face RED!!

This collection indubitably proved that Betsey Johnson is back. But then again, she never really went away.

—William S. Gooch

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