Christos Spring 2015
In presenting two of her three bridal lines back to back on April 12 during New York International Bridal Week, bridal designer Amsale Aberra made a statement about two seemingly opposite personas of modern brides.
The Christos line, which Aberra acquired in 2005, has become synonymous with romance. The Kenneth Pool line, which Aberra created and launched in 2003, has long been known for drama. (Her main eponymous line, launched in 1985, is being reviewed separately.) But the directions Aberra took the Christos and Kenneth Pool lines for spring 2015 speak volumes about today’s brides.
For spring 2015, the Christos line was the essence of sweet and fresh vitality. Aberra’s show notes described the look as “an updated take on modern vintage.” What that means when it comes to bridal, at least in the Christos line, there is a very soft, light and airy freshness.
Christos Spring 2015
There is no doubt that the Christos bride is sweet but never cloying or saccharine or frothy. The elegance and attention to detail that is a hallmark of all of the Amsale collections is ever present. Here, the chief detail is a profusion of tiny floral appliques accented with crystals as with a scattering of little beaded flowers that enlivened a fit-to-flare gown with an illusion neckline and cap sleeves. A more extravagant display of the flowers turned a blush beaded strapless fit-to-flare gown into a shimmering showstopper with layers of tulle and lace, especially point d’ esprit, adding to the romantic vision of the Christos bride.
By contrast, the Kenneth Pool bride, always dramatic, reflects the modern bride who has the confidence to show off her curves. Plunging fronts and backs cut down-to-there were just part of the stylistic repertoire employed for this sexy bride.
Kenneth Pool Spring 2015
Here, Aberra’s skill for detail could be seen in her breathtaking use of sheer illusion. The finely tailored sheer material allowed Aberra to create the effect of lace appliques climbing up a shoulder or snaking down the middle of an otherwise seemingly bare back.
Some of the standouts among the 10 gowns shown from the Pool line included a corded lace fit-to-flare gown with a deep V front and sheer back heightened by a single row of buttons inviting the eye down to the tailbone. Another va-va-voom gown was a dropped waist tulle ball gown with corded lace applique across the back.
Kenneth Pool Spring 2015. Images courtesy of Ernest Green
And yet, for all of the sex appeal of the Pool gowns, they never devolved into the realm of tacky. The taste quotient is a crucial must-have for this bride and Aberra, thankfully knows just how to find the right balance. These are gowns that are alluring but still classy.
—Karyn D. Collins
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