Front Row — Page 47

Dennis Basso Spring 2017

September 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

You know that there is a certain kind of brilliance associated with a brand when that brand’s design aesthetic can be re-invented and loyal customers keep coming back. So is the case with Dennis Basso.

Dennis Basso initially made a name for himself in the industry as a furrier. And his fashion shows centered mostly on Basso’s innovative use of fur, which has worked well for Basso over the years. Still, one might ask, how can a fashion brand known for interesting and unique perspectives when it comes fur, which at its core is a fall/winter phenomenon, translate into spring/summer clothes? Spring/summer garments and fun are not necessarily compatible bedfellows, right? Correct; however, Dennis Basso has ingeniously discovered some synchronicity between these two disparate elements. And it works!!

For spring 2017, the spirit of the modern international voyager inspired Dennis Basso. The international playground that serves as a backdrop for Basso’s inspiration serves his spring 2017 woman well as she darts from one fashion capital to the next, needing a wardrobe that reflects her many dalliances and her carefree spirit as she explores many world cultures. And because she is briskly traveling from one international locale to the next, Basso’s woman must pack lightly and carry garments that don’t need a lot of maintenance.

This emphasis of global travel is highlighted in garments this season that are a lot more youthful and fit for travel. Gone are some of the over-embellished, sometimes matronly looks of the past seasons. This collection, though still slightly excessive at 61 looks, had a lot more variation and youthful charm and whimsy than seen in previous outings. In this collection, Basso moved effortlessly between dresses and skirts of varying lengths, with a few pants thrown in for good measure.

Though this collection placed more emphasis on youthful charm and whimsy didn’t lack elegance or sophistication. Basso will continue to appeal to his loyal consumer base with lush suedes and a few looks that incorporated fur embellishments. Still, the highlight of this collection was the effortless, youthful sauciness of the looks.

Images courtesy of Indigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks in the collection were Basso’s camel line coat with mesh and sable vest, white sable and chiffon jacket with pleated chiffon dress, hand-embroidered blush gown, and hand-beaded blush lace gown.

—William S. Gooch

John Paul Ataker Spring 2017

September 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

If there is any doubt that Turkish designer John Paul Ataker has a penchant for the operatic, that the last of his models walked to the sound of Ennio Morricone’s Gabriel’s Oboe and the finale proceeded to the same maestro’s The Mission, should erase all uncertainty.

The collection—the self-described goal of which was to take “us back to ancient Assyrian culture, inspiring classically modern prints and sculpted shapes that create an elegantly tailored silhouette to enhance the feminine form”—while dramatic and diverse, lacked the thread of concinnity that gracefully sews such an ambitious undertaking together.

While the three-dimensionality of some of the pieces, including a white gown with peplum covered in multi-colored butterfly appliqué, is laudable, at best the clothes were a showcase of angelic intention and at worst, an exhibition of dizzying devilish details. Certain pieces, such as blue and yellow shiny taffeta gowns both belabored by multi-fold peplums, were in dire want of restraint. A cacophony rang out where a simple melody was craved.

Images courtesy of firstview.com

What Ataker’s collection lacked in editing, however, he made up for in pageantry: sheer trains swept from armholes beyond the length of the dress in one look; in the final look, a model manipulated the many-tiered train as though it were the wing of a seraphim. His passion is palpable and the time that was lavished on these confections is unmistakable. The purest notes were the dulcet tones of a peach high-low hemmed gown with its fitted bodice and hoop skirt. In this one piece, Ataker achieved Wagnerian echelons of romance without the coloratura that marred several of the other looks. With a little more isolation of ideas, Ataker’s voice would carry more clearly, and he would have us singing his praises.

—Natasha Nyanin

Alice + Olivia Spring 2017

September 13, 2016 by admin 3 Comments

For spring 2017 Alice + Olivia’s creative director Stacy Bendet was inspired by the Italy’s Gardens of Bomarzo and tarot cards. Hmm, an odd combination, you might think. However, if you are familiar with Alice + Olivia, Bendet has put together strange bedfellows before, creating collections that are surprisingly cohesive with lots of retail value.

For that young lady that is looking for fun, flirty, chic clothes that incorporate fashion as art without the artsy injection overwhelming the retail value, this is the perfect collection for you. Over the years, Alice + Olivia has grown from a frolicky collection for that downtown fashion girl who was looking for a more chic option to Juicy Couture to a brand that over the past couple of seasons has figured out how to keep its audience while evolving the brand to include more artsy, sophisticated looks.

Always known for its great separates, this collection contained lots of great pieces that can be mixed and matched with other pieces in the collection or pieces that are already in wardrobes. Bendet also brilliantly infused a bohemian chic aesthetic—a style point of view that has popped up in the collection for the past three seasons—with the more artsy embellishment of tarot symbols.

At times the collection was slightly incohesive—sometimes the tarot motif overwhelmed some of the garments—however, this collection was still fun, whimsical, with an added dose of youthful sophistication. Can anyone say “Tapestry’s” Carole King updated to 2017? That’s right, and on models of color. Yes!!

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com

Now the question is if the Alice + Olivia downtown fashionista is out to pasture? No, she has just grown up with a bit more sophisticated taste.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Layana Aguilar Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

Layana Aguilar has busy since her two appearances on “Project Runway.” Since her debut on season 11 of “Project Runway” in 2014, Aguilar has also appeared on “Project Runway All-Stars,” designed several collections and created gowns for Disney’s ‘Elena of Aguilar.’ And she is far from being done!!

For spring 2017, Aguilar looked to the smallest and most unconventional animals on the planet, the hummingbird for inspiration. ‘“Miss Happy Humming Bird” is an ode to the light we all carry inside, the strength we have to overcome all obstacles and the power of the female spirit, explains Aguilar.

Though the hummingbird as a source of inspiration might be an unconventional reference point when reconsidered and juxtaposed against Aguilar’s penchant for explosions of bold color, lightness and buoyancy, perhaps the hummingbird is an obvious choice. And with Aguilar you always get a lot of ideas, still, the point of contention with Aguilar is if all the ideas coalesce into a cohesive collection.

The elements that stand out most about this spring 2017 collection is the flirty, girly quality to the garments and expressions of bold color. The inclusion of the ruffle trend was a nice addition to the collection. However, Aguilar’s plethora of ideas at times did not come together adequately for a unified look. Though Aguilar’s collection clearly expresses who her customer is, it doubtful that her girl would several of the looks in this collection.

Images courtesy of Omen PR

Aguilar’s color palette of teal, black and white works well for this collection. And Aguilar’s use of neoprene and mesh add to the charm of her garments. That said; the mix of Aguilar’s ethereal print with the hard and soft quality of her fabrications didn’t always combine for a cohesive expression of her design aesthetic.

Standout looks in the collection is Aguilar’s teal blue halter dress with cutouts and the sea blue sarong skirt with sheer white top.

—William S. Gooch

Francesca Liberatore Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

“Francesca Liberatore’s last name means liberator.” And, it is freedom that Liberatore said she sought to capture with her spring 2017 collection inspired by “balloons in the sky.”

There was certainly an ease and flow to the collection that opened with a sleeveless black and gold pinstriped dress with a high slit that billowed with the model’s gait. The pieces that make up this collection were made to be swept by the wind, resulting in calculated yet understated drama: the cuts and lines were classic and the preponderance of looks mono or dichromatic.

Liberatore said balloons remind her of freedom and also of volume. For volume, bows were the order of the day: asymmetric neck lines on tee shirts culminated in a large taffeta bow; purple bows with tails hanging long were tied to the waistline of flare skirts, a red velvet blazer and bright crimson culottes. Yet, the clothes were not weighed down by the ubiquity of this classically romantic element. Ideas and shapes were modernized by the use of jersey. And the overall feel of the collection was given more buoyancy by printed t-shirts that were paired with more formal pieces.

Beyond bows, Liberatore found volume in both closed and open shapes. Jodhpur-like trousers and blouson sleeves on shirts and dresses were directly redolent of the balloons of the designer’s inspiration. On structured shirtdresses and a wide-lapelled trench dress, an additional short flourish of fabric, an ankle-length train if you will, intelligently provided the volume without the confinement of shape.

Images courtesy of livingly.com

Though a few of the bow-embellished pieces felt like craft work, overall Liberatore presented a restrained exploration of freedom that speaks volumes of the maturity of the designer’s sensibilities.

—Natasha Nyanin

Custo Barcelona Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

For Dalmau Custo more is more; particularly with the Custo Barcelona’s spring 2017. But than again, more is always more with this brand.

Industry professionals have come to expect “the more is more” fashion dictum from Custo Barcelona. Season after season, Custo Barcelona has excited customers and industry professionals with collections that demonstrated design acuity, bold color and lots of fabric combinations. So, one wonders how far Dalmau Custo will go with “more is more” fashion inspiration this season.

That said, Dalmau Custo went a lot of places with his “more is more.” Sometimes he went in the right direction, other times the piling on of ideas needed to be rethought. And though one would think Custo’s “more is more” would work best in the brand’s women’s wear garments, the brand’s “way more” worker much better with the men’s wear looks.

Custo Barcelona’s “more is more” aesthetic is evidenced in more elaborate textures, more hand sewn items, more wealth of materials, more creativity, and looks that exuded more power. That said; there appeared to be a70’s nightlife aesthetic throughout the collection. This point of view worked best in the over-the-top pieces, but in the more subdued garments some of the fabric and color combinations were incongruent and overwhelming. Perhaps, “less is more” would’ve worked in for some of the garments.

What worked best in this collection were the separates that could have been mixed and matched with other pieces in the collection or items already in wardrobes. Placing emphasis on separates has been a very good projection for Custo Barcelona in recent seasons. Not every consumer is brave enough to wear many of the bold pieces in Custo Barcelona collections each season.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Still, it is debatable if this “more is more” fashion dictum is a step forward for the brand. Better luck next season!!

—William S. Gooch

Berenik Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The athleisure wear trend has been around for several seasons, and though many brands have attempted to inject this dressed-down trend into their collections, Berenik has perhaps adapted athleisure wear to their design aesthetic better than any brand up to this point. Always known as a brand that pushed the proverbial fashion envelope, this season Berenik aimed for more retail viability. And this effort worked!!

Inspired by Veronika Brusa’s transcendent, meditative abstract paintings, Berenik, using a digital cloudscape print by Jack Hardwicke has infused the brand’s DNA of loose-fitting clothes with an interesting hodgepodge of meditative images and projections to inform a spring 2017 collection that goes beyond typical athleisure wear fare. This collection is more than an assemblage of garments that reflect millenials’ penchant for comfort and destination over style and sophistication, but a collection that expands the athleisure wear genre’s scope and style vernacular.

Berenik is proving that in this collection that athleisure wear can be chic, as well as promote ease of movement. And that the style genre can be infused with some tailoring and layering that speaks to a deeper conversation on what millenials might wear.

This is particularly evident in some of the men’s pieces that conjured images of early 70s rockers. And some of the runners’ shorts and jogging suits also gave a nod to mid-70s style.

Though the more translucent and sheer garments hinted at a kind of slouchy sexiness, overall most of the garments in this spring 2017 collection leaned more toward androgyny. And isn’t this where fashion is heading, projecting, supporting, and merging concepts of masculinity and femininity in a society where gender norms are not only being questioned, but also challenged. (Just examine some of the male models in the show, who were not androgyny in appearance, but also gender bending in attitude and pose.)

Images courtesy of Fernando Colon/Omen PR

If there was one downside to this outing is the lack of showstopper garments that could go viral on social media. Still, Berenik is not that kind of fashion brand. Berenik is a brand that is pushing the boundaries of fashion, and this season the brand has made its design aesthetic more retail friendly.

—William S. Gooch

Blake Hyland Spring 2017

September 11, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

Blake Hyland has a reputation for outrageous clothes, and conceptual and deconstructed pieces made from recycled materials. For his spring 2017 collection Hyland focused on more practical wearable clothes while still maintaining his unique aesthetic. The results were stunning.

Though this is Hyland’s first time showing during New York Fashion Week, Hyland’s spring 2017 collection is his third collection. “I’m just trying to concentrate on making a more wearable collection for the majority of people but still having elements that are true to me and my style.” Hyland told Fashion Reverie.

For the spring 2017 collection, entitled, “Equality,” Hyland used black, white and varying shades of grey. Hyland combined these graphic, neutral colors to create dramatic eye-catching geometric shapes. Although the collection was clearly casual street wear, Hyland did uniquely juxtapose street culture against athletic wear, in other words athleisure wear. Hyland spoke of his influences “I grew up in a world of surfing and skateboarding, it seems to work its way into the clothes I design.”

After using black, white and grey, the final four looks incorporated red to make strong political statements that were unfortunately undercut by some questionable styling choices. One model’s long dark hair fell over the words on her chest, obscuring the message. Another had a hoodie layered over his political tee that featured Hilary Clinton—perhaps vomiting? It’s unclear.

The final look consisted of graphic tee of a washed out image of Donald Trump with “Erase the disgrace” in red type along with a black beret evoking memories of the 1968 student riots in France. The graphic elements combined with Hyland’s fabrics choices of silk, snakeskin, and linen, resulted in chic, dramatic and elegant pieces that were easy to wear that makes statements that are understood universally.

Images courtesy of OMEN PR

While the crushing heat at the venue was reminiscent of Kanye West’s disastrous show on Roosevelt Island during the previous week, an audience member was clearly overheard saying, “This is what Kanye’s clothes would look like if Kanye was a really good designer.” Well put!!

—Cameron Grey Rose

Monique Lhuillier Spring 2017

September 11, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fairy tale fantasies seem to be a common theme for spring collections. From fairy tale gardens to fairy tale–inspired garments, the whimsy and otherworldly quality of sprites, sylphs, wood nymphs and elfin beings have served as a source of inspiration for the fashion world for a long time. And with spring/summer fabrications that are sheer and diaphanous—chiffon, organza, and tulle—the fairy world with its light, airy quality makes a compatible bedfellow.

For spring 2017 Monique Lhuillier referenced a surreal fairy tale haunted by the last dance. Instead of elfin creatures anticipating an opportunity to frolic in merriment and mischief, Lhuillier conjures up images of fairytale princesses who linger while enchanted music causes them to luxuriate in the aura of magic.

This season Lhuillier appears to have gone back to an aesthetic that she does best, beautiful cocktail and red carpet gown that evoke fantasy and whimsy. In previous seasons, Lhuillier has widened her creative mien by embracing a modern sensibility that showcased a woman’s internationalism and versatility. And that new direction not only expanded Lhuillier’s consumer base but also an effective way Lhuillier could demonstrate her design acumen, craft, and versatility. Still, many of us missed the ethereal quality that Lhuillier was adept at injecting into her gowns.

For spring 2017 Lhuillier revisits that ethereal, timeless beauty that made us love her in the first place. Welcome back!!

Though Lhuillier has come back to her ethereal advantage, the looks this season is not a dissertation on what worked before. This collection is an expansion of that particular design point of view, but more youthful and consumer-friendly.

Many of the silhouettes in this collection are silhouettes familiar to the signature design aesthetic of the brand, but with a poignant twist. The most obvious injection of whimsical charm was the belted additions on many of cocktail dress and gowns. And though there were some looks with low décolletage and revealingly sheer, there was a nascent innocence to this collection.

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/indigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks in the collection, and there were many, were Monique Lhuillier’s antique rose embroidered jumpsuit, black embroidered gown with cascading ostrich feather embroidery, rose gold floral embroidered o-neck long-sleeve sheath gown, and noir Chantilly lace tulle peplum gown with multi-layered tulle skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Rinat Brodach Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2017 Rinat Brodach looked to unite the sexes. Her “About Last Night” spring 2017 collection was inspired by the act of sharing. After a night of intimacy a woman takes her lovers clothes and drapes the oversized garments in way that she can wear out in the street.

This weaving of masculine silhouettes into a more feminine expression causes the women to rethink her personal style. By bringing the masculine and feminine together, the woman begins to experience a marriage of the sexes, a meeting of the minds, so to speak, which renders a style evolution.

“This spring 2017 collection is a metaphor for relationships,” explains Rinat Brodach.”My woman finds herself by playing with the oversized masculine silhouettes which when manipulated and draped expresses itself in a style that she embraces.”

In this New York Fashion Week debut, Rinat Brodach puts her signature design aesthetic on draping, deconstruction, and re-imaging familiar silhouettes. In some respect, Brodach’s spring 2017 collection took us back to the 1980’s when so many fashion designers were revisiting familiar silhouettes and funneling the familiar through a lens of innovation, sometimes mixed with political angst and rebellion.

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Though this spring collection, to some extent, takes a similar stance, Brodach is not trying to reinvent the wheel or make a political statement about androgyny or the sexes. Brodach brilliantly demonstrates that we are at a moment of gender fluidity where folks can individually define their masculinity and femininity and find that delicate balance between the two.

The collection featured exclusive in-house print patterns that Brodach collaborates exclusively on with Darrin George in addition to beautifully draped silks, jersey, and textured elements.

—William S. Gooch