Front Row — Page 46

Berenik Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The athleisure wear trend has been around for several seasons, and though many brands have attempted to inject this dressed-down trend into their collections, Berenik has perhaps adapted athleisure wear to their design aesthetic better than any brand up to this point. Always known as a brand that pushed the proverbial fashion envelope, this season Berenik aimed for more retail viability. And this effort worked!!

Inspired by Veronika Brusa’s transcendent, meditative abstract paintings, Berenik, using a digital cloudscape print by Jack Hardwicke has infused the brand’s DNA of loose-fitting clothes with an interesting hodgepodge of meditative images and projections to inform a spring 2017 collection that goes beyond typical athleisure wear fare. This collection is more than an assemblage of garments that reflect millenials’ penchant for comfort and destination over style and sophistication, but a collection that expands the athleisure wear genre’s scope and style vernacular.

Berenik is proving that in this collection that athleisure wear can be chic, as well as promote ease of movement. And that the style genre can be infused with some tailoring and layering that speaks to a deeper conversation on what millenials might wear.

This is particularly evident in some of the men’s pieces that conjured images of early 70s rockers. And some of the runners’ shorts and jogging suits also gave a nod to mid-70s style.

Though the more translucent and sheer garments hinted at a kind of slouchy sexiness, overall most of the garments in this spring 2017 collection leaned more toward androgyny. And isn’t this where fashion is heading, projecting, supporting, and merging concepts of masculinity and femininity in a society where gender norms are not only being questioned, but also challenged. (Just examine some of the male models in the show, who were not androgyny in appearance, but also gender bending in attitude and pose.)

Images courtesy of Fernando Colon/Omen PR

If there was one downside to this outing is the lack of showstopper garments that could go viral on social media. Still, Berenik is not that kind of fashion brand. Berenik is a brand that is pushing the boundaries of fashion, and this season the brand has made its design aesthetic more retail friendly.

—William S. Gooch

Blake Hyland Spring 2017

September 11, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

Blake Hyland has a reputation for outrageous clothes, and conceptual and deconstructed pieces made from recycled materials. For his spring 2017 collection Hyland focused on more practical wearable clothes while still maintaining his unique aesthetic. The results were stunning.

Though this is Hyland’s first time showing during New York Fashion Week, Hyland’s spring 2017 collection is his third collection. “I’m just trying to concentrate on making a more wearable collection for the majority of people but still having elements that are true to me and my style.” Hyland told Fashion Reverie.

For the spring 2017 collection, entitled, “Equality,” Hyland used black, white and varying shades of grey. Hyland combined these graphic, neutral colors to create dramatic eye-catching geometric shapes. Although the collection was clearly casual street wear, Hyland did uniquely juxtapose street culture against athletic wear, in other words athleisure wear. Hyland spoke of his influences “I grew up in a world of surfing and skateboarding, it seems to work its way into the clothes I design.”

After using black, white and grey, the final four looks incorporated red to make strong political statements that were unfortunately undercut by some questionable styling choices. One model’s long dark hair fell over the words on her chest, obscuring the message. Another had a hoodie layered over his political tee that featured Hilary Clinton—perhaps vomiting? It’s unclear.

The final look consisted of graphic tee of a washed out image of Donald Trump with “Erase the disgrace” in red type along with a black beret evoking memories of the 1968 student riots in France. The graphic elements combined with Hyland’s fabrics choices of silk, snakeskin, and linen, resulted in chic, dramatic and elegant pieces that were easy to wear that makes statements that are understood universally.

Images courtesy of OMEN PR

While the crushing heat at the venue was reminiscent of Kanye West’s disastrous show on Roosevelt Island during the previous week, an audience member was clearly overheard saying, “This is what Kanye’s clothes would look like if Kanye was a really good designer.” Well put!!

—Cameron Grey Rose

Monique Lhuillier Spring 2017

September 11, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fairy tale fantasies seem to be a common theme for spring collections. From fairy tale gardens to fairy tale–inspired garments, the whimsy and otherworldly quality of sprites, sylphs, wood nymphs and elfin beings have served as a source of inspiration for the fashion world for a long time. And with spring/summer fabrications that are sheer and diaphanous—chiffon, organza, and tulle—the fairy world with its light, airy quality makes a compatible bedfellow.

For spring 2017 Monique Lhuillier referenced a surreal fairy tale haunted by the last dance. Instead of elfin creatures anticipating an opportunity to frolic in merriment and mischief, Lhuillier conjures up images of fairytale princesses who linger while enchanted music causes them to luxuriate in the aura of magic.

This season Lhuillier appears to have gone back to an aesthetic that she does best, beautiful cocktail and red carpet gown that evoke fantasy and whimsy. In previous seasons, Lhuillier has widened her creative mien by embracing a modern sensibility that showcased a woman’s internationalism and versatility. And that new direction not only expanded Lhuillier’s consumer base but also an effective way Lhuillier could demonstrate her design acumen, craft, and versatility. Still, many of us missed the ethereal quality that Lhuillier was adept at injecting into her gowns.

For spring 2017 Lhuillier revisits that ethereal, timeless beauty that made us love her in the first place. Welcome back!!

Though Lhuillier has come back to her ethereal advantage, the looks this season is not a dissertation on what worked before. This collection is an expansion of that particular design point of view, but more youthful and consumer-friendly.

Many of the silhouettes in this collection are silhouettes familiar to the signature design aesthetic of the brand, but with a poignant twist. The most obvious injection of whimsical charm was the belted additions on many of cocktail dress and gowns. And though there were some looks with low décolletage and revealingly sheer, there was a nascent innocence to this collection.

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/indigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks in the collection, and there were many, were Monique Lhuillier’s antique rose embroidered jumpsuit, black embroidered gown with cascading ostrich feather embroidery, rose gold floral embroidered o-neck long-sleeve sheath gown, and noir Chantilly lace tulle peplum gown with multi-layered tulle skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Rinat Brodach Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2017 Rinat Brodach looked to unite the sexes. Her “About Last Night” spring 2017 collection was inspired by the act of sharing. After a night of intimacy a woman takes her lovers clothes and drapes the oversized garments in way that she can wear out in the street.

This weaving of masculine silhouettes into a more feminine expression causes the women to rethink her personal style. By bringing the masculine and feminine together, the woman begins to experience a marriage of the sexes, a meeting of the minds, so to speak, which renders a style evolution.

“This spring 2017 collection is a metaphor for relationships,” explains Rinat Brodach.”My woman finds herself by playing with the oversized masculine silhouettes which when manipulated and draped expresses itself in a style that she embraces.”

In this New York Fashion Week debut, Rinat Brodach puts her signature design aesthetic on draping, deconstruction, and re-imaging familiar silhouettes. In some respect, Brodach’s spring 2017 collection took us back to the 1980’s when so many fashion designers were revisiting familiar silhouettes and funneling the familiar through a lens of innovation, sometimes mixed with political angst and rebellion.

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Though this spring collection, to some extent, takes a similar stance, Brodach is not trying to reinvent the wheel or make a political statement about androgyny or the sexes. Brodach brilliantly demonstrates that we are at a moment of gender fluidity where folks can individually define their masculinity and femininity and find that delicate balance between the two.

The collection featured exclusive in-house print patterns that Brodach collaborates exclusively on with Darrin George in addition to beautifully draped silks, jersey, and textured elements.

—William S. Gooch

Desigual Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Desigual dedicated its spring 2017 collection to the global traveler that has influenced the world with her inimitable style. This style was influenced by this global traveler’s many cultural adventures reflected in an eclectic fashion that embraces a variety of ethnic influences.

With Desigual it is always about the styling. Though the brand is sometimes seen as a more affordable alternative to its rival Custo Barcelona, in recent years the brand is establishing its own design aesthetic. And that aesthetic leans heavily toward great separates that can be mixed and matched with great options in the collection or from other brands.

This collection is no exception. With a strong nod to the bohemian chic style of the early 70s, Desigual has taken bohemian style and injected global cultural motifs to create a collection that is current and fashion-forward with some consumer viability, particularly this season’s separates. Where in previous seasons Desigual leaned more toward collections that were more consumer friendly from the beginning to most of the pieces in the collection, this season the melding of 70s bohemian with global cultural influences rendered a collection that did not quite make the retail mark as in other seasons. In fact, the spring 2017 collection reflected garments one might find in Custo Barcelona.

Still, having less retail-friendly garments is not a misstep for Desigual. Particularly, when this spring 2017 point of view evolves the brand, which it does!!

This collection while celebrating global travel and the freedom of expression found in diverse cultures also had a strong emphasis on cuts and silhouettes that are comfortable while highlighting the body’s curves. The wide array of fabrications and bold colors helped detail these global influences, particularly the animal, print and ethnic motifs, portraying the vast territories of great adventure.

Images courtesy of Getty Images

Standout looks in the collection were the ethnic-embroidered button-up jacket over crochet jeweled bee-embroidered maxi gown, pink patch–embroidered denim jacket over stripe-and-floral color block maxi, and Indian-inspired pattern and 3-D floral print mid-length coat with 3-D print matching trousers.

—William S. Gooch

Tadashi Shoji Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Tadashi Shoji really turned up the volume for spring 2017!! Gone are the mother-of-bride dresses, gone are the lacey tea-length cocktail frocks, and also missing is the sweet sixteen, debutante gowns. All these looks have a place and presence in the industry; however, this season Shoji took some risks and it paid off!!

For spring 2017 Tadashi Shoji celebrates rebirth: rebirth in nature, rebirth in time and most of all rebirth in vision and direction. Using the teachings of Buddha as a focal point, with Buddha proclaiming “All things change,” at the end of his earthly journey, Shoji through his spring 2017 collection demonstrates that in his ecstatic vision of rebirth, the tangible and the mystical expression of ethereal bliss meet as one.

Shoji’s co-joining of the ethereal and the earthly present is seen through the lens of a spring collection that is shockingly heavy—shocking for Shoji, that is—on extremely diaphanous creations where unmentionables are artfully exposed fused with exquisite details that give texture and nuance. Yes, Shoji penchant for lacey floral embellishments are still front and center; however, unlike previous fashion outings where Shoji’s cornucopia of lacey concoctions conjured up images of sometimes staid, safe dresses that tempered the imagination, this spring collection Shoji allowed his fancy and fantasy to take flight.

The carnal and the otherworldly are brilliantly interlaced in a collection that is mostly obviously more youthful, fashion forward and happily more adventurous. V-neck décolletage is dipped to sensuous regions unknown, high splits almost expose lush creation, and layered embellishments suggest regal distinction.

Still, all of Shoji’s titillation and exposure this spring 2017 season is never vulgar. Of course, for most of Shoji’s loyal customer base the very sheer pieces will be lined for modesty purposes, but it is so good to see Shoji revamp his brand’s DNA beyond just beautiful and finally go there!! For those who have assiduously followed his career we were confident he had the goods. And this season he proved it.

That all said, there are no new silhouettes, but there doesn’t need to be any!! The chicness and sensual, modern projection of the collection speaks for itself.

Images courtesy of Linda Gaunt Communications

Standout looks in the collection include Shoji’s ivory/aquamarine sleeveless square neck mini-dress in mandala corded embroidery with ostrich features and fringe detail, ivory sleeveless jumpsuit in floral lace with square neck and open back harness details, coral short v-neck slip dress with animal embroidered tulle and lace, and dark pearl halter gown in metallic sequin-embroidered tulle with plunging v-neck.

—William S. Gooch

Nicholas K Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

One would think the Christopher and Nicholas Kunz would have run out of options when it comes to their signature design aesthetic, nomadic chic. Not so!! Every season the design duo finds some interesting twist that we have not seen before that keeps their brand’s DNA relevant with a unique perspective.

For spring 2017, Nicholas and Christopher Kunz looked to the film “Theeb” for inspiration. “Theeb” depicts the life of Bedouin culture in the mystic Wadi Rum. This Bedouin lifestyle centers on endurance and simplicity juxtaposed against the wind-swept, towering plateaus and narrow canyons of that environment, where eeking out a meager existence is an accomplishment in itself; a perfect reference point for the brand’s nomadic chic aesthetic.

Where in other seasons the nomadic chic aesthetic served the brand well, with some garments that had retail value and other garments in the collections having more editorial value than what might appeal to consumers. Perhaps, the brand’s design duo was still working out the translation of its nomadic chic aesthetic into wearable clothes in other outings. However, with this spring 2017 collection those seasons of experimentation seem to be over and is now rendering a collection that is a definite plus for consumers.

Though the floppy hats were somewhat of a distraction for this spring 2017 collection, overall, the collection was very well styled with a strong emphasis on layering, and draping, with some very interesting knotted pieces as well. And unlike other collections that hinged on androgynous fare that did not show off the feminine silhouette well, this collection was sensuous, beguiling with lots of feminine charm.

Images courtesy Umberto Fratini/Indigital.tv/vogue.com

There were also more gowns in the collection this season than in previous collections and the inclusion of variations on alpaca was highly effective. Another addition to take note of was Nicholas K’s shift to sustainable fashion. All the leather belts, wide-brimmed hats and trenches used vegetable dye.

—William S. Gooch

Just Drew Spring 2017

September 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Is fashion only about the new, the unfamiliar or the groundbreaking? Well, that depends on whom you are talking to and who makes the rules.

The definition of fashion also rests with how innovation and “new” is defined. As the biblical proverb details,” there is nothing new under the sun.” And that is absolutely accurate. So, perhaps, fashion should be defined as how well not-so-new elements are assembled, and if this unique assemblage causes folks to see something in a new and interesting way.

And that is what Drew Warren has done with his spring 2017 collection. With enchanted, dream-like cotton candy trees, as a backdrop, Drew Warren presented some very familiar, pretty silhouettes, but with a unique perspective.

Oftentimes, great fashion collections are about three things, presentation, presentation, presentation!!! The botanical wonderland-like backdrop to this spring 2017 collection helped project a relaxed and more accessible stance to these looks that are usually associated with the upscale, urban fashionista. In this setting, Warren wisely projects that these garments could work for a variety of women. And instead of creating looks that are usually worn by that sometimes jaded, spoiled city girl, Warren has created an environment that is promotes warmth, comfort, versatility and sensuality.

At first glance, a lot of fashion pundits would contend that these very familiar silhouettes are just a rehashing of things seen before. However, at closer examination, Drew Warren has carefully woven a tale of frothy, whimsical fancy seen through the lens of youthful, upscale feminine looks that women with deep pockets would like to wear. Every youthful socialite, or wannabee socialite, would love these looks in their wardrobe, precisely because Warren has assembled an array of garments for almost every social occasion

Just Drew’s color palette consists of hue’s of soft blush pinks mixed with white sheen/metallic layers, and newly developed fabric textures complimented the mastered silhouettes throughout the collection. The collection also portrayed vivid color palettes, alluring butterfly printed silk dresses, body-con bando’s paired with long silk trousers, and exclusive stripe patterns developed in-house, collectively forming the ultimate ideal modern Spring contemporary collection.

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity/ Dan Lecca

Though this is Just Drew’s sophomore collection during NYFW: The Shows, it was a rounding success. Drew Warren knows his customer well, and demonstrates in this spring 2017 collection that knowing how to expertly style and assemble familiar looks together, can go a lot further than the unfamiliar that has no retail value.

—William S. Gooch

Telfar Spring 2017

September 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Everyone has heard the oft-bandied adage, “Less is more.” This simplicity dictum that has been one of the tried-and-true principles of great fashion also applies to Telfar’s spring 2017 collection. Except, there is one hitch. Perhaps, Telfar’s spring 2017 collection should hinge on the not often heard or spoken fashion adage, “Less is deceptively more.”

Every season Telfar continues its signature design aesthetic of taken well-worn American sportswear silhouettes and turning these silhouettes inside out. In other words, creative director Telfar Clemens deconstructs and adds his eclectic twist on classics, reimaging these looks as functional and wearable garments of the future.

What works so well in this season’s collection is that Telfar Clemens injects a bit of tongue-and-cheek humor into each garment. The classic polo shirt becomes a commentary on gender bending, awkward sexiness. From the front the polo shirts look no different than the average polo shirt, except that collar may appear to be on backward. However the back of the polo shirt could be a total reveal, dipping to regions unknown or at the very least regions not talked about in polite company.

The continuing trend of cutouts also pops up in this spring 2017 collection. However, Telfar, true to his brand DNA, uses cutouts in an innovative and interesting way. There are no cutouts on the sides of bodices, as seen in most collections. Instead, Telfar’s cutouts are fleshed out, so to speak, in unusual locations. There are cutouts in the side legs of jeans, around the shoulder blades of polo shirts, and just above the chest of polo shirts.

And in a nod to the sameness and blandness of big retail giant colors, the brand makes use of what it calls Martha Stewart and Old Navy colors—lime, tangerine, and mid-grad blue bold colors. It was a though Willy Wonka’s ‘oompah loompahs’ fell into a bucket of Home Depot paint!!

That said; the inside joke is on the fashion industry that sometimes pretends to value fashion above clothes, but in reality mostly cares about retail dollars. So, Telfar sarcastically plays with this hypocrisy while at the same time repurposing some standard silhouettes into his version of fashion.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

That’s right; clothes, which look, like fashion and are creatively fashionable!! In the words of Telfar Clemons, “Its not for you, It’s for everyone.”

—William S. Gooch

Denibi Spring 2017

September 8, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

How often have you heard that,“it is not always what you say, it is how you say it”? That well-used adage applies to Denibi’s spring 2017 collection, a collection that found a way to repurpose familiar silhouettes in ways that were fresh and fashion forward. And in Denibi’s debut New York Fashion Week collection, the brand proved that minimalism married with sophistication can be a winning ticket.

Perhaps, Denibi’s ability to inject familiar silhouettes with innovation and creative verve emanates from its focus on minimalism. True to the brand’s DNA of minimalism though design, Denibi’s spring 2017 collection references extends from a single African mask entitled “Nostalgia.” “ The main inspiration for the brand came from the single ebony wood mask named Nostalgia. That is our main source of inspiration. Its minimalism, its meaning, and its aesthetic is what developed our entire collection. Nostalgia is also the first piece of art that we ever created,” detailed the Denibi design team.

Where other brands literally interpret references to the ‘Mother‘ continent, Denibi aptly infuses its spring 2017 collection with the essence of its reference point, thusly creating a collection that is chic, sophisticated, current, consumer friendly and not weighted down with garments that substitute literal interpretation for inspired genius. The brand’s utopia—as its name denotes—is characterized by simplicity, fine taste, and modernity that is so beautifully expressed in this spring 2017 collection.

Beyond the minimalistic verve of the collection, there are a few things to note about this fashion outing. The Denibi design team is adept at putting their own creative spin on looks that we seen before, and seen often. Take the brand’s simple white blazer, the type of blazer seen in many collections season after season. However, at closer examinations, this spring 2017 jacket separates itself from other white blazers with accordion-like sleeves that can be rolled up for style and comfort. It is these little minimal details that gives Denibi the fashion edge, though its choice of silhouettes are looks we have seen many times before.

If there was one draw back to this spring 2017, many of the garments looked as though they would have been more appropriate in a fall/winter collection. Still, perhaps, the design team was going for trans-seasonal looks that are currently so popular in the industry.

Standout looks in the spring 2017 collection are the brand’s navy blue spring coat with oversized trousers and white Spandex bodysuit, ivory high-collared vest with triple buttons and long ivory wrap-around accordion skirt, oversize velvet bomber with camel pencil skirt, and ivory turtleneck bodysuit with straight ivory trousers.