Sophie Et Voilà Bridal Spring 2021

April 19, 2020 by Leave a Comment

You may ask yourself, why be informed of spring 2021 bridal collection in these uncertain times? When we are living in life-and-death times, wedding nuptials are not the first thing on most peoples’ mind. And these bridal collections are presented a year in advance, not necessarily an immediate need, so why bother?

Let’s re-examine this bridal challenge. Though this global pandemic has made everyone keenly aware of how precious life can be, that is no reason not to plan. We will get through this and good planning never goes out of style. (If the government had put together an adequate COVID-19 plan in the US, many lives would have been saved.)

Since 2016 Sophie Et Voilà, founded by Sofia Arribas, has gained considerable market traction due to the brand’s combination of elegance and simplicity. Often Arribas draws inspiration from her years spent as an architect and consumers will find clean, geometrical cuts balanced with a soft ethereal touch, reflecting each collections continuity and coherence. Each design is sewn entirely by hand in her Madrid and Bilbao-based atelier’s and crafted using the most exquisite fabrics and impeccable finishes.

For spring 2021, Sofia Arribas was inspired by the different kinds of women she and business and design partner Saioa Goitia have been, in other words their evolution as women. This spring 2021 embodies their growth evidenced in clean, geometrical cuts paired perfectly with floating layers of ethereal silk tulle and fringe.

The design duo elegantly balanced the hard and soft elements of this collection by celebrating the true femininity and power that lies within every woman—elegance and audaciousness, virtuous and sensuous, maternal and nocturnal. Sleek Mikado slip gowns are adorned with detachable voluminous bows, ruffles and sleeves. Jumpsuits, minis and interchangeable separates offer a seamless transition from day to night. 

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Sustainably manufactured in Spain, the spring 2021 collection also introduces select styles made from completely recycled polyester fabrics. The contemporary designs and slow fashion philosophy of Sophie Et Voilà deliver a one-of-a-kind collection for the fashion forward and environmentally conscious bride.

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2021

April 19, 2020 by Leave a Comment

For her bridal spring 2021 collection, Ines Di Santo looked to the beloved Greek Isles and other majestic beaches for inspiration. These backdrops often serve bridal destinations for her customer. So, with customer in mind Ines Di Santo has created a bridal collection that aptly serves her base.

In this season of global love with the realization that we are deeply connected to each other, particularly in a world where certainty is becoming an unavailable commodity, it is important to reflect and understand how much we need each other and how the actions of some affect the lifestyle of others.

In this time of global shifts and a new normal, Ines di Santo has committed to eco-conscious sustainability. This commitment is expressed in this spring 2021 bridal collection by Ines di Santo employing new fabrics such as a tissue Mikado that is made of 70% recycled plastic bottles.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

“More and more we are seeing brides and couples prioritizing sustainability and the environment as part of their decision-making process when it comes to their celebration and the wedding gown. This is our challenge as a bridal brand to speak to this emerging audience. Being a couture brand, we really create each gown with almost no waste as each gown is made custom for our brides’ measurements. We are not mass producing, so it is already in our nature to be more sustainable and eco-conscious. This season we are very excited to be introducing some new recycled fabrics into the line. We have one fabric made 70% of recycled bottles, but it is woven at such a high quality that one would never be able to tell upon touch; we are very excited about these types of new developments and plan on launching more and more each season,” explained Ines di Santo in a weddingbells.ca article.

Whether Ines di Santo is using eco-friendly fabrications or continuing to use traditional fabrics that have been so important to her bridal collections, her bridal collections will continue to be the highlight or every bridal season. And we are all the better for it!!

William S. Gooch

Justin Alexander Signature Bridal Spring 2021

April 18, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Is this the time to plan wedding nuptials? With the COVID-19 pandemic wrecking financial, health, and emotional havoc on the US economy and healthcare systems, one wonders if this time is appropriate for planning a wedding. Though this could and should be an individual choice, the viability of wedding nuptials seems to be unclear at this junction.

Still, consider that most weddings are planned well over a year in advance. So, if that is true, perhaps, the COVID-19 pandemic will have been resolved by April/May 2021 or at the very least calmed down enough so that friends and loved ones can safely attend a wedding.

With that theory in mind, it should be no surprise that the bridal industry has moved ahead with promoting bridal collections for the spring 2021 season. And though New York International Bridal Week spring 2021 season was cancelled due to COVID-19 concerns, many bridal designers forged ahead with digital presentations.

Justin Alexander was one such bridal designer. For his spring 2021 bridal collection, Justin Alexander was inspired by the sleek and sultry vibe of 1930’s jazz. And Justin Alexander expanded this inspiration by naming the bridal gowns in this spring 2010 collection after famous jazz artists, namely Dinah Washington, Duke Ellington, Peggy Lee, Count Basie, Billie Holiday, Dexter Coleman, Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald, Charlie Parker, Etta James, and many others.

Like the sounds of the jazz era, this season’s styles are full of depth and range- featuring mixed textures, unique and ornate beading, and soft colors. The silhouettes are dramatic—showcasing sparkle details, large bows, plunging necklines, and low backs. Clean gowns and pantsuits rise up to another level with modern accessories, detachable elements, and floral details. This collection is a medley of elevated, edgy, chic, and fashion-forward designs.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Additionally, what Justin Alexander does so expertly in this collection is combining classic bridal silhouettes with a modern sensibility. And like the sassiness and exuberance of 1930s jazz, this spring 2021 bridal collection expresses a modern brides’ penchant for individuality, effervescence, and modern charm. This collection also has something that will appeal to brides from difference age demographics. From those younger brides that may want to reveal more skin and show off those svelte physiques to those more seasoned bridal consumers who are looking for something classic and sophisticated, this spring 2021 bridal collection does not disappoint. Bravo Justin!!

—William S. Gooch

LANDEROS NEW YORK Fall 2020

March 9, 2020 by Leave a Comment

The gender fluidity revolution is expanding. From international fashion brands such as Palomo Spain, Rick Owens, and Hakan Akkaya to more homegrown brands like The Blonds, Kenneth Nicholson, Olivia Oblanc, and Official Rebrand, the gender fluidity movement is fashion is breaking new ground and give space to redefine gender.

Launched in 2013, NYC-based fashion brand LANDEROS New York, as the name implies, fuses a New York City street aesthetic with a design perspective that arises out of creative director Andre Landeros Michel’s love for music from a variety of musical genres—punk, goth, new wave, industrial—seen through the lens of gender neutral dressing. This design aesthetic is expressed through exaggerated silhouettes and nonconventional materials.

From LANDEROS New York’s fall 2020 collection, Andre Landeros Michel demonstrated his acuity with outerwear and nonconventional fabrics. And though this collection did not possess a lot of bold color, Michel made up for that lack with fabrications that glistened and sparkled. The color palette ranged from plums and oxblood to charcoal and silver.

Entitled “Night Transmissions” this collection is for that urban warrior is not afraid to be noticed as they traverse from glamorous speakeasys to other nightlife hotspots. Interestingly, the entire collection is made from sustainable materials.

What stood up most in this fall 2020 collection was the gender neutrality of the garments. That said, the gender fluidity of the collection in no way minimized the glamor and fabulousness of the collection. This collection is not for the mild-mannered consumer. Michel designs for that consumer who expresses their love of individuality through their clothes.

“I have friends in the LGBTQ community and Cis and Non-binary friends that segregation didn’t make sense for us to do a collection that served specifically for men or women. LANDEROS New York goes on record to say that we do one collection. If you want to call it genderless, if you want to call it non-binary, we welcome all those terms, but we do one collection and we open it to everyone,” said Michel.

Images courtesy of LANDEROS New York

And LANDEROS NEW YORK open-door policy works best for that consumer who is not afraid to put it out there; in whatever way they define themselves. After all, gender expression is an individual definition. Why not celebrate the range of that realization?

—William S. Gooch

SEVENCRASH Fall 2020

February 15, 2020 by Leave a Comment

SEVENCRASH’s fall 2020 collection looked at the dystopian world from the perspective of three alternative possibilities. As unsettling as this point of view might seem for a fashion collection, it was a timely compendium of where we may be heading.

SEVENCRASH has established itself as a disruptive fashion brand that aptly combines technology and fashion as a sustainable endeavor. “As a disruptive brand, we believe in progress and staying ahead of the curve, in the current climate, sustainability needs to be and will be every brand’s number one priority. Every season we have been devoting more and more of our resources to researching and developing sustainable textiles and increasing the role they play in our design process. This is our mandate and an integral part of our corporate culture,” explains Brand CEO Jason Yao.

In this collection SEVENCRASH looks at the planet in 2065, forty years later, where technology has led to an overexploited earth, and artificial intelligence has brought on an existential crisis. In that state of dystopia, SEVENCRASH explores their design aesthetic through three series, prosperity to decay and, finally, to nirvana.

The Prosperity Series examines how artificial intelligence, technology and science has advance the human process, enabling people to live lives of more comfort and convenience. This series is made evident in exaggerated large-scale silhouettes and futuristic biotechnology green, demonstrating how mankind is thriving.

In the Decay Series mankind is surrounding by chaos and destruction. SEVENCRASH makes this evident in “destructive” spray washing/finishing process and carbon pollution color digital printing to express the atmosphere of earth’s imminent destruction. The ingenious use of orderly interlaced weaves of filled plume, with tangled tassels running through and under them, mapped out the future of technology and how its development will likely take human civilization to an incalculable plane.

The last series, the Nirvana series, demonstrates that mankind has achieved a balance between ecology and technology; a kind a phoenix rising out of destruction and chaos. Garment silhouettes were disproportionately combined to form explosive stacks and kits, forming a harmonious new silhouette born of conflict. The same amalgamation applies to the fabric and decoration.

Image courtesy of Jane Kim/SEVENCRASH

These three distinctive futuristic expressions are funneled their SEVENCRASH’s design acuity with outerwear, and bubble coats and parkas. This fall 2020 outing gives voice to mankind’s ability to survive almost anything, even in a dystopian world. And that survival will express itself in what we wear. It always does!!

William S. Gooch

ARTISTIX Fall 2020

February 12, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Is ARTISTIX campaigning to be the brand of choice for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics. If so, they have an early start and their fall 2020 collection should put them in the running.

With ARTISTIX’s “Adventure” collection, founder Greg Polisseni and creative director Andy Hilfiger looked to winter slopes and skiwear for inspiration. This 2020 fall collection was an “Adventure” into winter wonderland seen through the lens of luxury streetwear.

“I’m so proud of the collection that we premiered for F/W 2020,” said Polisseni. “The pieces incorporate the print of my painting Stars & Stripes which makes this collection that much more important to me. Stars & Stripes was created as a symbol of unity which is portrayed through the styles. I want to especially thank Klarna and Style360 for partnering with us for this show, we couldn’t have asked for a more prepared team!”

Since 2016, with Andy Hilfiger manning the creative helm of ARTISTIX, the brand has been making inroads in combining American streetwear with a rock n’ roll sensibility. Interestingly, this combined design aesthetic is rarely, if at all, associated with skiwear. However, for this fall 2020 collection Andy Hilfiger found an ingenious way for ARTISTIX’s design aesthetic to work on wintry slopes.

This collection is also infused with inspiration from Greg Polisseni’s well-known  painting Stars and Stripes. The shades of red and blue of Stars and Stripes was incorporated into ARTISTIX’s signature camo pattern. All tying in the brand’s aesthetic of art, soul, and rock n’ roll.

Images courtesy of ARTISTIX

“We’re like a band and the audience are our fans. We’re all about the music, art, and fashion” said Andy Hilfiger after the presentation. “We brought the Artistix lifestyle to everyone that came to the presentation and now they can bring the vibe with them to the ski slopes.”

—William S. Gooch

Zadig & Voltaire Fall 2020

February 12, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Sweden of the 1970s and the Parisian streets of the 1920s were the two contrasting forces that became the DNA of Zadig & Voltaire’s fall 2020 collection. The brand’s creative director, Cecilia Bönström, was inspired by her childhood memories of Gothenburg, the second largest city in Sweden, for a collection that was heavily focused on color combinations. Though drawing from nostalgia, this fall 2020 collection managed to look toward the future.

Bönström brought back the colors, paisley patterns, and floral prints that graced the 70s in an era that was all about daring to dream and being bold. Although the 70s embraced disco nightlife, this collection was not your parent’s clubwear. Rather, it was vintage-inspired tastes with modern appeal for customers, embracing the streets of Paris and Sweden’s cultural hubs.

In contrast to the bright colors and patterns, and in the spirit of Parisian chic, there was also a lot of black that emanated from Zadig & Voltaire’s take on the little black dress. Additionally, the brand’s neutral penchant encompassed tailored suiting. The brand’s tailoring perspective works in parallel with the industry more recent concentration on tailoring, and in this respect, tailoring in the spirit of the roaring ‘20s. Still, this collection did not focus on the strict formality of the 1920s, but, rather, styling for women who want to present a powerful visage and men who want to look more stylish, while maintaining an edgy style like a rock n’ roll star in a suit.

While Bönström didn’t set out to make this a genderless collection, she worked to bend gender codes in fashion by creating silhouettes that go beyond gender. For that vintage meets modern aesthetic, there was also revamped tweeds, velvets, and aged leather. As today’s consumers are starting to covet vintage pieces and vintage looks, Zadig & Voltaire were on trend with these key details.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

The collection was a reminder when moving forward, often you have to pay homage to the past. Heritage and nostalgia don’t have to look dated or old news, but, rather, and be reinvented to project something new.

Kristopher Fraser

Just in XX Fall 2020

February 12, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Though the show notes from Just in XX detail that Taiwanese streetwear designer Justin Yu-Ying Chou was inspired by Taiwanese modern and contemporary artist, Tsong Pu, and his use of continuous square matrices, at closer examination, perhaps Justin Yu-Ying Chou was inspired the Lubavitch sect of the Hasid. Known for his unique pairing of East Asian design aesthetic and Western references, Yu-Ying Chou in this fall 2020 collection melded the two seeming disparate cultures seamlessly.

While some industry professionals may not have noticed the similarity between Yu-Ying Chou’s garments and faith-based attire of the ultra-conservative Lubavitch Hasid, most observant New Yorkers and industry professionals of a certain age recognize this reference. And particularly if you are familiar with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s fall 1993 “Chic Rabbis” collection, you will observe that Yu-Ying Chou’s fall 2020 collection reflects a similar reference point. The distinguishing difference being Yu-Ying Chou’s collection is heavily based in urban streetwear.

Which is the genius of this collection. Yu-Ying Chou has demonstrated for several seasons that his quite adept at melding references and inspirations from disparate sources. However, this season Yu-Ying Chou struck gold with this blending of different cultures. And interestingly many of the looks in the collection had an undeniable 80s vibe, particularly when combined with Lubavitch Hasid-like hats. This look was all the range in the late 80s in NYC. (Think Amy Irving in “Delancey Street.”) To that point looks of chic urbanites in late 80s New York City flaunted the oversized outerwear that was so predominant in this collection.

That said; what stood out most in this collection was Yu-Ying Chou’s outerwear. Many of Yu-Ying Chou’s layered outwear combinations that came in a range of bold colors and with embellished with geometrical shapes, reflecting Tsong Pu’s art aesthetic of line and shape, added an exciting combination of modern art and streetwear swag. In some instances, this collection was wearable art while still being accessible and viable to modern consumers.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

Yu-Ying Chou in this collection also brilliantly mastered the art of cultural appropriation without stigmatizing or off-putting any of the cultural references he drew inspiration from. In an era where some designers don’t understand how to appropriately give homage to sources of inspiration, Yu-Ying Chou seamlessly combined different cultural sources in respectful celebration.

William S. Gooch

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2020

February 12, 2020 by 1 Comment

Nothing brings more joy to a fashion industry professional’s heart than to see a beloved fashion designer really come into his own. Most of the time, it doesn’t happen. No matter how great the promise or how unique the point of view, in the current market, most fashion designers/brands don’t last long enough to fulfill even a small part of their potential. However, there are some recent exceptions in the last decade—Christian Siriano, Cushnie, Pyer Moss, Rodarte, and a few others.

Bibhu Mohapatra is one such brand that is realizing the depth and wealth of its potential. Inspired by Amrita Pritam’s 1950 novel, Pinjar, which details the struggles of East Indian women in the 50s, Mohapatra sought to celebrate East Indian women in all their many expresses, especially those East Indian women who have influenced and nurtured him.

Mostly known for his intricate and heavily embellished evening wear, what Bibhu Mohapatra demonstrated so brilliantly in this fall 2020 collection is that he can celebrate his consumer at almost every jointure of her day—well, maybe not the yoga or gym class. Though Mohapatra shines most brightly when it comes to his knockout red-carpet evening wear, this season his day looks were pretty spectacular.

That said; Mohapatra’s daywear is still for that fashion-forward consumer who travels internationally and is comfortable with an East Meets West design aesthetic—an aesthetic which is Mohapatra’s bread and better. Still, there were some daywear pieces that would appeal to a wide swarth of female consumers; particularly Mohapatra’s Dhoti pants which  were brilliantly paired with stylish jackets.

One of the things that makes Bibhu Mohapatra’s eveningwear so special is his ability to render his unique design aesthetic is a variety of silhouettes. From princess gowns to column dress to sheath dresses with extended trains, Mohapatra has become a master at distilling his ideas of regal beauty.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Standout looks from this fall 2020 collection include a chiffon-skirted strapless number featuring Mughal architecture-inspired embroidery, lacquered velvet dhoti pants  with white madras coat, black and grey tweed suit with peplum jacket, organza and silk pink and white cocktail dress with floral embellishments and organza bow sleeves, and white column dress with grey floral print, black belt and black silk crossbody scarf.

—William S. Gooch

Libertine Fall 2020

February 11, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Johnson Hartig’s latest Libertine collection was presented just a few days before Valentine’s Day, but he clearly had love on his mind. Hartig is known for his loud and proud left-of-center politics, and he’s not afraid to admit that a certain political figure is practically burning the ground as far as he’s concerned. And people need to wake up and do something proactive to save the planet.

In between trying to promote a left-of-center agenda, Hartig had found the time to do something that was meant to be a break from all of the horrors of humanity; create maximalist, colorful clothes, many of which featured heart motifs that became a key detail for Libertine’s fall 2020 collection. Despite his deep desire for a better world to happen and immediate change, Hartig sees fashion as a place where one can find peace and tranquility in color, pattern, and design. It is within our clothes that we can be free to dream in technicolor and send a message to the world about who we are.

In a world where everything chaotic and on a downward spiral, Libertine’s customers aren’t down and out. The Libertine customer expresses themselves jubilantly in embroidered capes with multicolored, emblazoned hearts in celebration of life. In the darkest of times, dare to be bold, and don’t let dim your glamor or your glitter-encrusted jacket from shimmering.

Images courtesy of the Krupp Group

As always, the eternal theme at Libertine is more is more. Tailored black suits were embellished with the entire alphabet in sequins, and coats were embellished with gold sequined guitars. A grey twill blazer was embellished with mixed media fabrics for a statement making effect. The collection was playful, pretty, and a much-needed punch to the mundane. No matter the state of the world, a good outfit can help you be your own shining light.

Kristopher Fraser

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