Front Row — Page 22

PatBO Spring Bridal 2022

April 7, 2021 by admin 3 Comments

The sand basks in the glow of the sun as bright blue waves rush to shore to greet the lady in white. Her skirt mimics the seashells on the sandy floor, and it moves gracefully as the wind gently breezes by. The lady in white is adored by the sun, and it kisses her skin while she walks down the beach. The sun sets when she leaves and waits in anticipation for her to arrive again the next day. The colorful fish of the sea swim with vigor to be caught in the netted beach skirt that drapes elegantly from her hips, but the current keeps them back. It laps at her feet, beckoning her into the water. She shrugs off her crochet cover up and dives in, the embroidered pink and purple flowers mingling with the white sand. She wades into the refreshing water in her lace up one piece, and the sea sings.

Just as the sea meets the shore, fashion meets comfort in exquisite harmony in PatBO’s spring 2022 Bridal capsule collection. Pat Bonaldi, designer and creator of PatBO, hails from Brazil and her love of vibrant color along with rich embroidery is the signature DNA of her brand. This collection shows her skill for catching our attention and keeping it, even when using a stunning all white palette. Her fine stitching, hand embroidery, cutouts, and intricate details in a form-flattering fit are showcased in this fresh and airy, yet elegant collection.

PatBO brings a light, vibrant touch to an occasion as formal as a wedding and breathes new life into a time-honored tradition, seamlessly blending formal with casual and luxury. Bonaldi aims to “dress the PatBO customer for all of her life moments.” These visions in white can be donned for a playful honeymoon at the beach, then adorned with a crocheted puff sleeve dress for an evening dinner poolside.

This collection is resplendent with options to make the looks versatile, such as seashell hardware at the waist allowing for the attachment of a flowing skirt, and billowy capped sleeves with ties at the elbow to add a touch of romance. One pearl of the collection is a cotton fringed dress with diamond shaped cutouts to emphasize the waist. Crochet embroidery and delicate mesh sleeves counterbalance these cutouts to create a piece dedicated to perfect proportions and true craftsmanship.

Images courtesy of Savannah Engel PR

The cherry on this Caipirinha of a collection is the accent of intricate statement earrings by Ranjana Khan. Sunburst shaped earrings reflect dazzling light from the sunburst on the horizon. All seems right in this world. The capsule collection embodies a spirit of joy, elegance, and freedom.

—Tessa Swantek

Nordeen Bridal Spring 2022

April 7, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

So much has changed because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Music concerts are on hold, Broadway theatres are still empty, many hotels are at only 25% reservations and large gatherings are taboo. Still, there are some things that the pandemic cannot stop or eliminate. And one of those things is weddings.

Though big wedding gatherings inside indoor venues are not encouraged, nuptials outside can be a solution to social distancing. And since couples are going to get married despite the pandemic, why not incorporate an outdoor wedding as a viable option.

That said, for the spring 2022 bridal season, Nordeen re-imagines classic weddings attire for outdoor venues. With a commitment to nature and a desire to preserve its beauty, the brand seeks to develop a range of effortlessly luxurious pieces, distinguished by natural materials and subtle yet unexpected details.

This spring 2022 bridal collection is for the bridal consumer that is looking for classic style with a modern twist. And there is something for every type of bridal for every jointure of her bridal journey.

And though Nodeen is less than two years old, launched by Brenna Simmons in 2020, Simmons has a finger on the pulse of what modern brides would want to wear. Particularly, those brides that are projecting toward bridal wear that is appropriate for an outdoor nuptial.

Because of her love of nature and sustainability, Brenna Simmons has created a spring bridal collection that develops and aptly develops those two themes. Simmons committed to nature and a desire to preserve its beauty. The brand seeks to develop a range of effortlessly luxurious pieces, distinguished by natural materials and subtle yet unexpected details.

Images courtesy of Nordeen

Standout looks in the collection are the brand’s BRYONY gown which was an A-line white with cowl neck shrug; the ARWYN, a short, white off-shoulder cocktail dress, perfect for bridal brunch, and the FAVEN, a long white skirt with white tube top and statement sleeve embellishments.

William S. Gooch

Kosibah Bridal Spring 2022

April 7, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

I wanted to create a collection that elicited an emotion. A pulling sensation of hope with faint echoes of sorrow but leading to a triumphant crescendo. Basically, music that would move people, but leave them hopeful, happy, and optimistic. —Yemi Osunkoya

Around the globe, from his homeland of Ibadan, Nigeria, to his Paris atelier, to his current design headquarters in Brooklyn, New York, Yemi Osunkoya is a designer to be admired. Osunkoya relocated his bridal salon to New York City in 2016, from where he created his spring 2022 bridal collection, Asheyori Eji. “Asheyori” is a Yoruba (Nigerian) name meaning “success through adversity.” “Eji” means “second” or “twice,” and represents the second Kosibah collection that has been presented during the COVID-19 pandemic. The dresses all have variations of Yoruba ‘Cherish’ names which have ‘ké’, which means love/care for/adore, within them as well as other names for joy, precious and gold.

For the traditional bride, there is the Ronke, an off-white ballroom skirt below a sleeveless V-neck bodice adorned with beaded appliques. The Ajoke is a tulle and lace trumpet gown with an integral corset that provides a fitted bodice with shoulder strap sleeves. The Båanke is an off-white ballroom skirt below a sleeveless V-neck bodice adorned with beaded appliques and a keyhole opening on the back.

Not everyone is a traditionalist, and for that consumer, there is the Wura, a light honey-colored tea length dress with ivory lace appliques. The corseted semi-sweetheart neckline bodice is accompanied by off-the-shoulder lace strap sleeves. The Ayo is another tea length skirt, this time in zibeline, with a deep plunging neckline and open back leading to a cinched wide waistband. And for the pant lover, there is the Kemi pantsuit. This two-piece ensemble consists of a wrap peplum jacket and loose fitting, flared pants. The jacket has a built-up collar and false camisole lace insert, accented by slightly flared cuffs, long waist ties, and a scallop lace trim visible beneath the peplum.

This collection is not without its showstoppers. The Ife is an antique white tulle bodice and mermaid skirt, with lace appliques across the bust, shoulder, and upper sleeve. The Akoke is another two-piece ensemble. This time, the outfit is made of a crepe strapless sheath gown with a sweetheart bralette neckline. It is worn under an asymmetrical jacket with one long sleeve and beaded lace appliques matching those on the gown. The crown jewel of the collection is the Ashake, a beaded cape-sleeved gown with a diamante-studded overlay and embellished waistband and appliques.

Images courtesy of Kosibah

With the collection, Yemi Osunkoya demonstrates that he is a thoughtful designer. Ever conscious of the needs of his customers, and keeping the global crisis in mind, the Kosibah brand has created a ready-to-wear collection that adapts its bespoke gown aesthetics and applies them to gowns at a more affordable price point and wider accessibility via bridal salons and online sales.

—Carl Ayers

Naeem Khan Fall 2021

February 24, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

As an art form, fashion tends to have one foot in the past and one in the future. There is the adage that fashion is cyclical, and there is nothing truly new, but simply a new spin on an old trope. Naeem Khan’s fall 2021 collection confirms yet combats this sentiment. While many brands have pivoted to focus on creating collections in response to the COVID-19 pandemic—relaxed aesthetics and athleisure—Khan is looking to the future world where we have moved on from COVID-19.

As you view Khan’s latest 33-piece collection, you will see gowns evoking various periods of high fashion. There are fringed-beaded dresses reminiscent of the 1920’s flapper and art deco era. There were also nods to the Flower Power movement of the late ‘60s, and the feathered Dynasty era of the 80’s. And one cannot overlook the heavy baroque and rococo looks of the 1700’s.

The baroque ensembles employed the eye-catching color palette of black, gold, and silver to harken old world aristocratic glam. The intricate beading takes form in a design of gilded leaves and feathers against a black backdrop creating an illusion of metallic brocade armor. The image, fit for a Maharani, is reminiscent of traditional fashion reminiscent of Khan’s South Asian homeland.

Equally as glamourous are the looks of the American flapper and art deco period. Not as intricately designed, but just as heavily encrusted, Khan’s flapper dresses in silver, blue, and green come in full, knee, and thigh lengths. The art deco gowns are in silver or gold for a classic looks, but there’s also a gold jumpsuit for extra festive occasions.

Moving forward in the timeline of fashion, Khan offers traditional and modern reflections of the hippie era. With orange and red beaded flowers atop a pale blue background, you are thrust back in time, but this is not some ‘Marcia Brady’ ensemble. With high hem lines and plunging neck lines, these looks are bold and daring, not for the faint of heart. Still, there are more modest flower-adorned dresses, gowns, and jumpsuits in black, and even ethereal creations in a sandy nude tone.

If you are one to be more covered up, you would appreciate the monochromatic gowns in purple and pink. They include floor-length capes and feathered jackets that will have you channeling Diahann Carroll and Joan Collins.

Images courtesy of Naeem Khan

Nothing in this collection is for the homebound consumer. This line was created for the woman who has incorporated dressing up as part of her lifestyle. Khan says “There are women who love glamour, who cannot live without glamour and they socialize, even though it might be restricted. They want to look fabulous because dressing like this makes you happy and it gives a certain feeling to life.”

—Carl Ayers

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2021

February 23, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Did Bibhu Mohapatra get the memo that we are in the throws of a health pandemic, and that restaurants are operating a limited capacity and no theatres, social events and galas are open to the public? And don’t mention that red-carpet events, concerts, and nights out on the town are currently off-limits.

From Mohapatra’s fall 2021 collection, it obvious he didn’t get the memo. And that is a good thing. Why abandon your penchant for luxury fashion when it has worked so well you? So, COVID-19 aside, Mohapatra knows what works for his brand, and he is doing just that!!

Inspired by Langston Hughes’ relationship with A’Leila Walker, daughter of the famed CJ Walker, America’s first black millionaire, and Gustav Klimt and Emilie Flöge in late 1900s Vienna, this fall 2021 collection was Mohapatra’s reflection on romance from days gone by seen through a modern lens. (Albeit, the aforementioned relationships were not the most traditional relationships in their time periods.)

Interestingly, Mohapatra pulled back on his usual injection of glorious embellishments, which pays homage to his South Asian background. Maybe this retraction is due the more relaxed mood found throughout the fashion industry, resulting from COVID-19 lockdowns and a move away from over embellishments. Whatever the reason, Mohapatra’s pullback from in-your-face glitz and glam serves this collection well.

Keeping with the sustainable ‘going green’ motif that was front and center for many New York Fashion Week (NYFW) collections, Mohapatra employed vegan leather for several of his daywear garments which makes those garments more affordable to the average consumer. And though this collection projected a modern perspective on glam and luxury, Mohapatra still was able to brilliantly reference old world fabrics and design techniques evidenced in his use of lace, velvet, and lacey shrugs with a non to 1920s design aesthetics, and long flowing trains that evoked moods of elegance and sophistication.

Images courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra

Is Bibhu Mohapatra in this outing predicting that good times are a head, post-pandemic? Of course, he is. Hopes springs eternal and Mohapatra is a master at inspiring beauty, hope, and modern glamour!! Now all consumers need is somewhere to wear these fabulous clothes. The party is just around the corner!!

—William S. Gooch

Christian Siriano Fall 2021

February 23, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Christian Siriano gets it right this time!! And during this era of digital fashion weeks, I wish other designers could get it right. Maybe, they should follow Siriano’s lead.

That said, what did Siriano get right? There are many things, almost too many to name. Let’s start with his show. Siriano opted for a real runway show at Gotham Hall with guests safely distanced. Siriano also incorporated a lot of diversity in his fall 2021 collection—lots of models of color, and a range of plus-size models. Lastly, Siriano understood that this time of retraction and lockdown it is so important to give consumers something to aspire to. This collection was not designed to make consumers comfortable or reflect the perilous times we are living in. This collection projected toward the future and a return to glamour and style.

Siriano was inspired by a recent trip to Aspen, Colorado and what a fashionable woman would wear to glamorous events there. Obviously, Siriano’s woman would wear all the sexy, glamorous looks in this collection, with some looks bordering on adventurous and mildly avant garde. This is the woman that we had come to love in Siriano’s collection, a woman that has been almost absent from his collections over the past two years.

The consumer who would like, perhaps, the first 10 looks in this collection is the woman that Siriano has been appealing two in his most recent collections. She is stylish, youthful, and sophisticated, but not risk-taking or adventurous. In other word, this consumer who you will make your bread and butter from.

However, the garments in the latter part of this fall 2021 collection is for the woman who pushes the proverbial fashion envelope. She is in the words of Diana Vreeland, “now and next.” And Siriano really understands how to be display her tastes and dress her whimsical nature.

Perhaps, because this show was one of the few live runway shows of the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) season, Siriano felt he had the opportunity to dramatically explore this daring consumer. And, also the absence of live runway shows may have opened the door and prompted Siriano to turn up the volume and wow audience and consumers with his wealth of talent. And wow he did!

The first eleven or so looks fit appropriately with Siriano’s stated inspiration theme—dressing up of an Aspen event. The looks were a modern, woodsy Americana interpretation of glam in the Rockies. Though some of the garments were slightly tongue-in-check, for the most part, Siriano did his job of sticking to the theme.

That said, looks 12 to 49 were all out, hit-you-over-the-head, Siriano luxury glam. From the garments with cutouts to garments with revealing sneak peeks to ruffled garments, all displayed Siriano’s many talents and gave NYFW a much-needed fashion boost.

Images courtesy of Christian Siriano/vogue.com

Christian Siriano’s fall 2021 collection is what NYFW used to be and what it should return to in a new and expansive way. Health pandemic aside, perhaps, NYFW will get rid of the street circus that had plagued this hallowed event for too many years and bring back what NYFW is supposed to be about, wonderful, glorious fashion!!

William S. Gooch

Zimmerman Fall 2021

February 23, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

The fashion industry, so hard-hit by COVID-19, is seeing that somber mood of the health pandemic reflected in their designs. That said, Zimmerman’s fall 2021 collection is a breath of fresh air with a color palette veering from bright pinks to pastels and exuberant psychedelic prints clearly inspired by the ’70s. That jewel encrusted minidresses are screaming for a night on the town at a time when restaurants are only at 25% capacity.

The collection consisted largely of variations on her signature minidresses trimmed with lace or ribbons featuring Victorian collars, keyhole cutouts, and puffy mutton sleeves. If minidresses seem an odd choice for fall remember that ‘Down Under’—Nicki Zimmerman is from Australia—the seasons are opposite of the North Hemisphere so it’s their spring.

The full-length dresses were oddly reminiscent of the 70’s brand Gunne Sax with peasant- inspired silhouettes without the muted palette. Instead Zimmerman incorporated bright pinks or cosmetic prints accenting wine-colored backgrounds. Multiple plaid pantsuits in bright pinks, mustard yellows, and browns with pussy bows blouses are looks that consumers will find quite groovy.

Zimmerman said the collection was largely inspired by “Countdown,” a music program that aired in the 1970s featuring the music of Abba, Blondie, and The Stooges. This 70s aesthetic presented itself in jeans with eschewed washes with flared legs paired with hip-length, peasant blouses.

Where the collections really seemed to get lost was in the coats. Again, autumn in Australia is quite warm so perhaps this is a nod towards American consumers. The collection featured several full-length, duster coats. The most effective was a bright pink plaid over a win- red pantsuit. Another standout coat was a chocolate brown leather coat that looked like it walked right off the set of “Shaft.”

There was also a shiny black leather duster coat over black shirt and culottes. Yes, culottes. There was only one pair of culottes in the entire collection. Oddly, the fashion industry has been trying for years now to make culottes a trend and consumers won’t stop saying “No!”

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Still, it will be interesting to see how American consumers respond to this collection which was clearly meant for free-wheeling, good times. While America is getting closer to more vaccinations with Johnson & Johnson recently announcing they had developed a new single dose vaccine, we’re not quite there, yet.

Cameron Grey Rose

Anna Sui Fall 2021

February 22, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Anna Sui took a more muted approach to color than usual for her fall 2021 collection. The designer is best known for her hippie-inspired psychedelic colors and prints, and while there is color in the bulk of her collection this season, Sui began the presentation with a focused black and white moment, which she said she’s been unable to stop thinking of as the world is currently on pause and she has visions of a bright and vibrant world ahead.

Despite the heavier use of a black and white color palette, Anna Sui didn’t stray away from her signature use of bold patterns. Stripes, cow prints, plaids, and zigzags all helped take maximalist neutral colors and earth tones to more creative heights. Patterns were layered on patterns, lurex stripes and wavy knits gave the eye plenty to explore, and faux suede pieces had whimsical trims. While the earlier looks in the collection focused on black, white, and earth tones, later looks featured gorgeous splashes of purple, fuchsia, green, and magenta.

By fall 2021, there is expected to be an answer as to where we can wear maximalist, patterned, beautiful garments. With the arrival of the COVID-19 vaccine, designers are creating collections centered around a future of optimism. The global pause has been seeing an on-again, off-again button with lockdown measures, but as the COVID-19 vaccine is becoming more available globally, people are looking for a reason to dress-up again.

Anna Sui’s word of choice for the future she envisions is phantasmadelic, a word of her own unique origin in reference to exuberant colors and patterns. Additional inspiration for her came from the 1968 film “Wonderwall” by Joe Massot, where a bored scientist who lives his world in black-and-white discovers a hole through his wall and sees swinging sixties model Penny Lane, played by the incomparable Jane Birkin, who lives her life in fantastic color.

Images courtesy of Richie Davis

The set for Anna Sui’s virtual show featured a brightly hued wardrobe cabinet, with the idea being that this will transport us to a new world and a fashionable new dawn where there is a party on the other side and reason to show off our latest fashions. Here’s to hoping in fall 2021 that Anna Sui’s dreams do come true.

—Kristopher Fraser

Adam Lippes Fall 2021

February 22, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

Since the COVID-19 pandemic hit, fashion designer Adam Lippes has followed his customers’ cue and delivered clothes that are above comfortable and feminine. In an October 13, 2020 interview with Nicole Phelps for www.vogue.com, Lippes cited his new touchstones as “refinement, comfort, luxury and ease.”

The big 1980s’ pussycat bow from the pre-fall 2021 collection took center stage for fall 2021. The fun poppy print he designed with editorial florist Putnam & Putnam reeked of optimism and looked great as a separate and as a dress. The brilliant red showed up again as a quilted red leather jacket with relaxed matching trousers that are the perfect solution between leggings and rigorously tailored trousers. As for skirts and dresses, the red and white striped knit skirt and dress with a ruffle hem strike the right balance of ease and refinement.

Although color is certainly a mood elevator, Lippes is shrewd enough to recognize that women still need great basics to mix with colorful prints and pieces. There’s a sharp khaki trench coat and an oversized white gnarled knit turtleneck that’s right on point and can be dressed-up or down as the occasion requires. His long white coat shares the comfort Norma Kamali’s iconic “cocoon coat” has and looks comfortable enough to sleep in.

Images courtesy of runway360.com

It is unlikely women will be eager to embrace the suits they put away a year ago, but they may take to Lippes’s slouchy black pant suit and tweed turtleneck and long skirt set. We applaud this designer for delivering a collection that is comfortable but most definitely not “basic.”

—Vivian Kelly

Negris LeBrum Fall 2021

February 22, 2021 by admin Leave a Comment

One of the advantages of being a fashion editor is observing a fashion designer/brand evolve and grow over time. And though for the past two seasons New York Fashion Week (NYFW) and many global fashion weeks have adopted a virtual platform due to the COVID-19 pandemic, there is still opportunity to witness the growth of some fashion brands.

Negris LeBrum is one such brand. When I first attended Negris LeBrum’s runway shows during NYFW, I noticed that though the garments were well made, the brand was bogged down in parochialism with very little innovation or ingenuity. Don’t be mistaken, there is a market for those kinds of garments, but presenting a collection of garments that don’t grab your attention can be a wonk wonk moment during NYFW. That design aesthetic has now pivoted, in a good way.

Negris LeBrum creative director Travis Hamilton chose to film the video for his fall 2021 collection in his hometown of Houston, Texas, stage in a public park. Inspired by his Louisiana bayou roots, Hamilton sought to bring a New York City sophistication to the South. “I wanted to bring a piece of NY Fashion Week to the South this season, as I may not get the opportunity to show outside of NYC again for some time. I really feel these times are right for my brand in so many ways. I have always worked in what I refer to as a ‘conservative sexy’ aesthetic, allowing the woman who wears my collection to define the final feeling of the ensemble. The heart and soul of the Negris LeBrum brand is and will always be Louisiana, but my studio and current home are in Houston, so bringing the two together for [fall] 2021 is like a fashionable homecoming for me,” explained Hamilton.

In bringing a Big Apple sophistication to a more laidback location, Hamilton did modify that design aesthetic to the southern consumer who may not be aggressively pounding the pavement or rushing from one appointment to the next. This fall 2021collection is for the woman who wants sophistication and style on her own terms. And this specific point of view embraces a design aesthetic that is more inclusive in terms of age demographic, size, and culture.

And in that respect, Travis Hamilton is doing something that reflects the changing tide in the fashion and retail industries. One thing that this health pandemic is teaching us is that there are valuable fashion markets beyond crowded urban cities. Hamilton is tapping in the that with this collection. Projecting that it possible to have great style and panache while living outside of a metropolis.

Standout looks in this collection include the faux leopard coat with thin black belt, sporty varsity sweater with polka dot blouse over tweed skirt, and grey wrap metallic jumpsuit with V-neck. And the faux black leather and faux leopard coat over black suit is to die for.