Menswear — Page 6

SEVENCRASH Fall 2020

February 15, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

SEVENCRASH’s fall 2020 collection looked at the dystopian world from the perspective of three alternative possibilities. As unsettling as this point of view might seem for a fashion collection, it was a timely compendium of where we may be heading.

SEVENCRASH has established itself as a disruptive fashion brand that aptly combines technology and fashion as a sustainable endeavor. “As a disruptive brand, we believe in progress and staying ahead of the curve, in the current climate, sustainability needs to be and will be every brand’s number one priority. Every season we have been devoting more and more of our resources to researching and developing sustainable textiles and increasing the role they play in our design process. This is our mandate and an integral part of our corporate culture,” explains Brand CEO Jason Yao.

In this collection SEVENCRASH looks at the planet in 2065, forty years later, where technology has led to an overexploited earth, and artificial intelligence has brought on an existential crisis. In that state of dystopia, SEVENCRASH explores their design aesthetic through three series, prosperity to decay and, finally, to nirvana.

The Prosperity Series examines how artificial intelligence, technology and science has advance the human process, enabling people to live lives of more comfort and convenience. This series is made evident in exaggerated large-scale silhouettes and futuristic biotechnology green, demonstrating how mankind is thriving.

In the Decay Series mankind is surrounding by chaos and destruction. SEVENCRASH makes this evident in “destructive” spray washing/finishing process and carbon pollution color digital printing to express the atmosphere of earth’s imminent destruction. The ingenious use of orderly interlaced weaves of filled plume, with tangled tassels running through and under them, mapped out the future of technology and how its development will likely take human civilization to an incalculable plane.

The last series, the Nirvana series, demonstrates that mankind has achieved a balance between ecology and technology; a kind a phoenix rising out of destruction and chaos. Garment silhouettes were disproportionately combined to form explosive stacks and kits, forming a harmonious new silhouette born of conflict. The same amalgamation applies to the fabric and decoration.

Image courtesy of Jane Kim/SEVENCRASH

These three distinctive futuristic expressions are funneled their SEVENCRASH’s design acuity with outerwear, and bubble coats and parkas. This fall 2020 outing gives voice to mankind’s ability to survive almost anything, even in a dystopian world. And that survival will express itself in what we wear. It always does!!

William S. Gooch

ARTISTIX Fall 2020

February 12, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Is ARTISTIX campaigning to be the brand of choice for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics. If so, they have an early start and their fall 2020 collection should put them in the running.

With ARTISTIX’s “Adventure” collection, founder Greg Polisseni and creative director Andy Hilfiger looked to winter slopes and skiwear for inspiration. This 2020 fall collection was an “Adventure” into winter wonderland seen through the lens of luxury streetwear.

“I’m so proud of the collection that we premiered for F/W 2020,” said Polisseni. “The pieces incorporate the print of my painting Stars & Stripes which makes this collection that much more important to me. Stars & Stripes was created as a symbol of unity which is portrayed through the styles. I want to especially thank Klarna and Style360 for partnering with us for this show, we couldn’t have asked for a more prepared team!”

Since 2016, with Andy Hilfiger manning the creative helm of ARTISTIX, the brand has been making inroads in combining American streetwear with a rock n’ roll sensibility. Interestingly, this combined design aesthetic is rarely, if at all, associated with skiwear. However, for this fall 2020 collection Andy Hilfiger found an ingenious way for ARTISTIX’s design aesthetic to work on wintry slopes.

This collection is also infused with inspiration from Greg Polisseni’s well-known painting Stars and Stripes. The shades of red and blue of Stars and Stripes was incorporated into ARTISTIX’s signature camo pattern. All tying in the brand’s aesthetic of art, soul, and rock n’ roll.

Images courtesy of ARTISTIX

“We’re like a band and the audience are our fans. We’re all about the music, art, and fashion” said Andy Hilfiger after the presentation. “We brought the Artistix lifestyle to everyone that came to the presentation and now they can bring the vibe with them to the ski slopes.”

—William S. Gooch

Just in XX Fall 2020

February 12, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

Though the show notes from Just in XX detail that Taiwanese streetwear designer Justin Yu-Ying Chou was inspired by Taiwanese modern and contemporary artist, Tsong Pu, and his use of continuous square matrices, at closer examination, perhaps Justin Yu-Ying Chou was inspired the Lubavitch sect of the Hasid. Known for his unique pairing of East Asian design aesthetic and Western references, Yu-Ying Chou in this fall 2020 collection melded the two seeming disparate cultures seamlessly.

While some industry professionals may not have noticed the similarity between Yu-Ying Chou’s garments and faith-based attire of the ultra-conservative Lubavitch Hasid, most observant New Yorkers and industry professionals of a certain age recognize this reference. And particularly if you are familiar with Jean-Paul Gaultier’s fall 1993 “Chic Rabbis” collection, you will observe that Yu-Ying Chou’s fall 2020 collection reflects a similar reference point. The distinguishing difference being Yu-Ying Chou’s collection is heavily based in urban streetwear.

Which is the genius of this collection. Yu-Ying Chou has demonstrated for several seasons that his quite adept at melding references and inspirations from disparate sources. However, this season Yu-Ying Chou struck gold with this blending of different cultures. And interestingly many of the looks in the collection had an undeniable 80s vibe, particularly when combined with Lubavitch Hasid-like hats. This look was all the range in the late 80s in NYC. (Think Amy Irving in “Delancey Street.”) To that point looks of chic urbanites in late 80s New York City flaunted the oversized outerwear that was so predominant in this collection.

That said; what stood out most in this collection was Yu-Ying Chou’s outerwear. Many of Yu-Ying Chou’s layered outwear combinations that came in a range of bold colors and with embellished with geometrical shapes, reflecting Tsong Pu’s art aesthetic of line and shape, added an exciting combination of modern art and streetwear swag. In some instances, this collection was wearable art while still being accessible and viable to modern consumers.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

Yu-Ying Chou in this collection also brilliantly mastered the art of cultural appropriation without stigmatizing or off-putting any of the cultural references he drew inspiration from. In an era where some designers don’t understand how to appropriately give homage to sources of inspiration, Yu-Ying Chou seamlessly combined different cultural sources in respectful celebration.

William S. Gooch

Hakan Akkaya Fall 2020

February 10, 2020 by admin 1 Comment

Every season, fashion industry professional anxiously anticipate the next great fashion designer/brand. In fact, many can recall when the first encountered Alexander Wang or became familiar with Marc Jacobs’ design aesthetic. Many industry professionals boast that in spite of Christian Siriano’s turn on “Project Runway,” they knew that he had all the goods. Or some contend they were the first in the States to discover the gender fluid phenomena Palomo Spain.

Unfortunately, New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) doesn’t give industry professional many opportunities these days to witness extraordinary talent. However, when a new talent comes on the NYFWS scene, everyone stands up and takes notice.

Though not exactly new on the scene—this is Hakan Akkaya’s third season showing at NYFWS—everyone is taking notice of Turkish designer, Hakan Akkaya. To an overpacked house at Pier 59, Hakan Akkaya demonstrated that he is becoming a fashion force to be reckoned with and that he possesses the skill set and design aesthetic necessary to create a huge fashion career.

Hakan Akkaya’s fall 2020 “Justice” collection was heavy on gender fluidity, punk subculture, and hardware. Interestingly, all of these points of view have been seen before and in lots of incarnations; still, like all brilliant designers, Akkaya understands that the genius of a collection is not necessarily in the innovation but in how all the parts come together. Additionally, combining gender neutrality—particularly when it comes to menswear—with a hardcore punk aesthetic with sadomasochistic overtones is not an easy thing to do. However, Akkaya pulled it off with stylish charm and imagination.

This fall 2020 collection had almost everything that a brand could wish for. It was sexy when it needed to be while not descended into the va va voom category. It was fashion forward while staying accessible. It has charm, wit and humor without being kitschy. And lastly, it was powerful with great force without being oppressive and overbearing.

If there was drawback to this collection, it would be Hakan Akkaya’s penchant for making everything is neutral colors. A splash of bold color would have elevated this fall 2020 collection out of the realm of urban warrior gear, ready to battle the urban terrain with all its dangerous adventures. There are stylish souls who don’t reside in urban jungles. And those stylish creatures might feel a little intimidated by this collection. Then again, powerful fashion statements are not for the mild mannered.

Interestingly, this could be the ideal collection for that stylish warrior that’s ready to revolt against a repressive political regime, gearing up for the revolution. A revolution against oppressive ideals, making your statement about gender equality, freedom of expression, and sexual diversity.

Images courtesy of The Bromley Group

There were many great standouts in this “Amish meets Punk” collection. The most noteworthy were the many man skirts, Akkaya’s white Amish blouse with black pencil skirt with side ruffled embellishments, black long-sleeved fit-and-flare gown with bobby pin embellishments, Amish black slacks with patent-leather lapel vest, white Amish blouse with patent-leather skirt and embellished bustier, and black patent-leather top with matching shorts underneath diaphanous black gown.

—William S. Gooch

Kenneth Nicholson Fall 2020

February 6, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

One thing that emerging designers need to understand and acknowledge when presenting collection on a big international fashion stage: nothing should distract from your collection. Whether any theatrics, voiceovers, even over exuberant models. The most important element of any fashion show are the garments. Without the garments or garments as the focus of the fashion show or presentation, a fashion show is just another theatrical presentation/art installation or Instagram moment.

Unfortunately, Kenneth Nicholson constructed his fall 2020 show with the focus on the theatrics of his presentation which was far removed from his actual collection. Themed around his grandmother’s couch—referencing special moments shared with his grandmother—Nicholson’s fall 2020 show opened with two pugilists’ bodies painted in gold and sparkly black, simulating boxing moves in the middle of the runway. That is where the pugilists began and that is also where they stayed throughout the run of the show with models walking around them.

Nicholson also employed liturgical voiceovers of Reverend Barber of the Poor People’s Campaign mixed in with music from “The Wiz,” and a collage of iconic R&B and church music. Perhaps, all these influences gave voice to Nicholson’s homage to his grandmother, but for the audience it was a huge distraction.

The collection, though incohesive and disjointed, did have some eye-catching elements; particularly, Nicholson’s kelly green trench and some of the men’s wide-legged trousers. Nicholson is talented and his approach could be funneled into an interesting perspective on gender fluidity. However, he has yet to learn how to put a show together for a sophisticated New York audience. (And better models would’ve have been an additional plus.)

Images courtesy of The Hinton Group

Nicholson should let his design aesthetic and point of view speak for itself minus the over-the-top Instagram moments. The potential is clear, and that inchoate talent should be his focus, not fleeting social media moments.

—William S. Gooch

Grungy Gentleman Fall 2020

February 6, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

New York Fashion Week: Mens (NYFWM) is now a sad reflection of what it aspired to be. Originally, it was launched to lure back well-known menswear brands—John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Y3, and others—back to the US fashion week market. Initially, it was successful, but it didn’t take long for NYFWM to lose steam and now it is just a shadow of what it could have been, but never was.

Though NYFWM is a shadow of what it was, there are some menswear brands that continue to present during NYFWM. Grungy Gentleman—in its 12^th season—is one such brand.

Grungy Gentleman’s creative director Jace Epstein continues to soldier on, making NYFWM one of the highlights of its season. Very little has changed with the brand since its inception. Always catering to sports-centered male consumers, Epstein, season after season attempts some unique design aesthetic into what is mostly jogging suits, hoodies and workout gear.

This season Epstein combined his sportwear aesthetic with leopard print and geometric shapes. Grungy Gentleman’s signature athletic stripes were front and center in this collection, ingeniously placed on sleeves, trouser legs, and jacket exteriors.

Images courtesy of Karyzma Agency

Though Epstein came up with some interesting fabric combinations and patterns this season, which helped elevate the collection beyond typical men’s athleisure wear, the collection as a whole is mostly athletic wear in very familiar silhouettes. But, athleisure wear for the very stylish male.

—William S. Gooch

Todd Snyder Fall 2020

February 5, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

When people think of places that inspire fashion, Maine probably isn’t one of the first places that comes to mind. However, for his fall 2020 runway show Todd Snyder looked to Maine to inspire his latest collection which was a mix of outdoor chic and downtown New York City cool. Todd Snyder is known for his modern American take on menswear, an idea that he has adapted to various aesthetics ranging from sporty to street. This time Snyder took on the outdoors.

The collection featured modern Balmacaan overcoats, Harris tweed sack jackets, and nylon down puffer vests. The thought of pairing a corduroy suit with a sleeveless puffer jacket might sound a little outrageous, but it was this juxtaposition that Snyder used to make a statement. While the nature trail guy and the cosmopolitan city guy may not think they have much in common, there can be a crossover and intersectionality. So much of American fashion grew out of utilitarian needs, and while a puffer jacket is needed for protection from the weather, a corduroy suit is both winter appropriate and meets the formal guidelines of suiting up.

The brand’s classic pieces also took a trek into unchartered territory by mixing high-tech fabrications with off-the grid aesthetics. Merino thermal sweaters in blaze orange and neon were paired with tailored suiting and duck camouflage. Buffalo check, which typically has a rustic feel, was given a style centric overhaul when paired with yellow corduroy trousers and a shearling-lined aviator hat.

Luxury and the outdoors have rarely been synonymous, but there is more opportunity for those two to intertwine than is obvious, which is what this collection proffered. Merino wool, the finest wool next to cashmere, is both a fashion forward and cold weather aiding material. Shearling is considered a quintessential luxury. Wool trousers are a staple and can be worn to the office or walking through Maine on a winter day.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Todd Snyder also took a very democratized approach to fashion with a 40-piece capsule collection with L.L. Bean, fitting for a collection that was inspired by Maine L.L. Bean was founding base. Todd Snyder did his own take on L.L. Bean’s best-known styles including oil cloth Bean Boots, chamois shirting and sweaters in duck print, hand-knit Cowichan logo sweaters, and outerwear in L.L. Bean’s signature plaid. It was outdoor tradition with a city boy touch.

Kristopher Fraser

David Hart Fall 2020

February 4, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

David Hart has consistently created menswear collections that are accessible and speak to how American male consumers want to dress. Whether he is drawing inspiration from Miami’s nightlife of the 1950s or the American Southwest or last season’s early 70s—which is having resurgence in Hollywood. Did anyone see “Dolemite” or “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood”?—Hart’s menswear point of view is always on the pulse of how the American male consumer wants to dress and celebrates masculinity.

Which is why it is unfortunate that he is not getting more industry recognition and press. Still, David Hart soldiers on, always coming up with a re-interpretation of American classics. And his re-imagining American menswear is what he is really good at.

For his fall 2020 collection, Hart looked to Maurizio Cattelan, an Italian surrealist artist, who creates satirical works are based on things and images who all know and sometimes love—Pinocchio, the Pope, Adolf Hitler. Hart took this satirical and absurdist expression and funneled it through American classic menswear.

In this collection, Hart re-interprets a Western shirt, a pilot jacket, and tweed blazers, coats, and capes, leather jackets, and cardigan sweaters in a way that conjures up images of bygone eras, but also in ways that are attractive to current consumers. Hart’s relaxed way of dressing the American male consumers is based on Hart’s acknowledgment of the American male’s need for stylish comfort paired with a particular desire for masculine charm. Now that desire for masculine charm has evolved over time to include floral embellishments and some feminine silhouettes approached with a masculine sensibility. Still, an American masculine sensibility has evolved to include myriad points of view, and Hart ingeniously injects a significant amount of these perspectives successfully in this collection.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

There is almost something for every man in this collection. Whether that guy is looking for a stylish suit, relaxed, casual sportswear or a collegiate-inspired garment, it is all here. Which is surprisingly in that this collection contains only 11 looks.

David Hart can check off another winner collection this season. And with some many wins, the time is ripe for market dominance!!

—William S. Gooch

Carlos Campos Spring 2020

September 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Carlos Campos didn’t show his spring 2020 during the New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) spring 2020 season, and that was a good thing. NYFWM as it has lost much of its prestige and viability looks as though it is about to go the route of “another one bites the dust.” So perhaps, that is the reason Carlos Campos opted out of showing at NYFWM this season. Or perhaps, moving NYFWM spring 2020 season up a month to the beginning of June was just too early for Campos to get his menswear collection ready in time.

Whatever the reason, Campos made the right choice to wait to show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) in September. There are more folks attending NYFWS and, for its worth, there is still a glimmer of viability to NYFWS, unlike NYFWM. (The real reason is Carlos Campos had just had a baby and the timing was better to show in September.)

For his spring 2020 collection, Campos was inspired by the Pop-Art style of the 1980s and 90s. In particular, the boy band music—In Sync, Boys to Men, Backstreet Boys, Color Me Badd, and Duran Duran. And if you are old enough to remember two-toned bold color ensembles were the order of the day.

Campos’s bold color palette was made evident in bold turquoise and fuchsia, sometimes paired with the neutral palettes of black, khaki, and navy blue. Interestingly, this bold explosion of color was incorporated into very simple silhouettes, a design aesthetic that Campos is known for.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

What stood out most about this collection was Campos’ unique combinations of color and the way he paired these, sometimes, dissimilar color palettes with asymmetrical cuts and patterns. A fuchsia pattern on black or khaki pants could resemble an 80s fanny pack or a traditional men’s jacket could contain a bold stripe of turquoise or fuchsia.

Though this spring 2020 collection is a solid fashion flashback to the 1980s and 90s, Campos has found a way to inject his brand’s signature DNA. And that is what the industry loves about Campos. No matter the incoming trends, Campos stays true to his aesthetic. In fact, if you are familiar, you can spot a Campos garment from a distance. And that is a good thing!!

—William S. Gooch

Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

July 26, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

For his spring 2020 collection, Willy Chavarria tapped into the San Francisco and New York underground club scenes of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In an era where Latin machismo was front and center in underground gay culture, what has probably never been acknowledged in the fashion industry until Willy Chavarria’s spring 2020 collection was the incredible style and fashion-forward sensibility that came out of the gay Latino underground club scene.

Chavarria’s menswear is for a niche audience. And more specifically for that stylish man who is enamored with vintage looks and does not shy away from fashion that conjures up images of the late 80s and early 90s. That particular consumer will be attracted to Willy Chavarria’s spring 2020 collection.

That said; there were no groundbreaking menswear silhouettes or unfamiliar fabric choices or combinations in this outing. However, what Chavarria did accomplish was presenting the sexy masculinity of gay Latin culture of that era, and doing that with very simple, familiar silhouettes.

Though this collection was simple an unadorned in scope, there was quite a b it of charm to the clothes. The loose-fitted jeans with mesh tops and silk bombers were expertly juxtaposed against Chavarria’s choice of Latin male models.

And though this collection demonstrated the swagger and confidence of Latino machismo, there were some slightly feminine silhouettes thrown in. In fact, the feminine touches throughout the collection did not distract from Chavarria’s design aesthetic, but interestingly added to it. Only a self-assured man can pull off feminine silhouettes with confidence and aplomb.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Willy Chavarria’s collections appeal mostly to a niche audience. And that is not a bad thing. With menswear brands folding every season, maintaining a niche audience may be the key to market stability. And Willy just might have the key!!

—William S. Gooch