Delpozo under the tutelage of Spanish designer Josep Font is fabled for its fairy tale fantasy presentations. The clothes are otherworldly, the set is oftec awash with natural light, the models amble—rather than strut—down the runway as though gliding through some syrupy reverie which is equal measures Roald Dahl, Zaha Hadid and fellow Spaniard Christobal Balenciaga. The Spanish label’s spring 2017 delectation did not veer off this storied path of constructing whimsical, yet architectural complexity.
There is a certain sublime paradox to Font’s aesthetic and oeuvre. These are clothes that are at once sculptural and serious, detailed and restrained: the defile was a parade of extremes executed with a minimalist’s flare.
Originally trained as an architect, Font, engineered a collection that is a masterful confluence of structure and fluidity: laser clean lines in solid and opaque hues both bold and subdued, meet floral concoctions rendered in soft diaphanous silks. Here, a top’s rigid white peplum which resembles an inverted tulip’s chalice— itself festooned with delicate floral appliqué, as is characteristic of much of his work—cups a floor-length skirt that flows from underneath it like a periwinkle river of gossamer; there, nontransparent tangerine and pink bands are stratified with pellucid stripes to form material from which a ballooning trouser, a long pleated skirt and trapezoid maxi dress are wrought; sometimes, the delicacy of white lace pitted against the heaviness of textured fabric: everywhere there is paradox.
For a collection titled “Luminousity” which refracted inspiration from Spain’s master of light painter Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida and the installations of Korean-American artist Soo Sunny Park, it is apt that sunlight danced on the dendritic cascade of floral earrings worn by each model, an adornment that mirrored the variations on the floral fabric theme. The rays danced too on this opalescent fabric of the bell-shaped trousers of the first look and the many other iridescent offerings to follow.
Font weaves light seamlessly into his work through his choice of sheer and gold-flecked materials, and highlights the effect of light through the juxtaposition of these luminous elements with flat, absorbent surfaces. There can, after all, be no light without darkness, as they say.
Yet, even where the opacity is stark, there is a lightness of touch to Font’s prêt-à-couture technique. The standout pink cocoon coat with its incisive lines, sharp eggshell trousers paired monochromatically with an equally-clean linen winged blouse, a cropped round-neck jacket finished with a spiral cocoon at the end of each sleeve: these less fussy pieces were interspersed between the collection’s more ornate offerings.
While Font might be accused of more of the same with this collection, it is the ethos of his Delpozo that remains unchanged. With this prismatic collection, he bends light in some new and unexplored directions.