The New York Fall (NYFW) fall 2025 season saw an overwhelming sense of nostalgia, fused with a forward projection. Resounding themes across several collections seemed to be a celebration of artistry, childhood, memory, and chiefly, hope. Designers like Thom Browne and Christopher John Rogers harnessed messages of resilience throughout their collections and presentations.
This season saw reunions, returns to the industry, and an overall sense of play. Sandy Liang reached directly into her own childhood after birthing her daughter. Collina Strada joined in on the reflection, heavily referencing the 1990s while staying modern. Individually, the fall collections of 2025 underscored how fashion can bring forward the warmth of the past, but also voice the future, carrying us through tumult with artistry, emotion, and celebration.
Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch
Thom Browne
This season, Thom Browne plucked inspiration from birds, and his collection soared. Bridlike references ranged from shape, to color, to motif, stunning displays of craftsmanship and color theory. Set against a backdrop of origami birds, the academia-leaning looks with layered tweeds and plaids sparked reminders to Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds.” Instead of a horror reference, Browne hoped to utilize the bird as a symbol of hope in turbulent times for the world, political climate, and fashion industry.
Images courtesy of Filippo Fior
Christopher John Rogers
A celebratory reunion was due to Christopher John Rogers after a two-year hiatus. The clothes reflected this jubilant rejoining. No stranger to color, Rogers’ collection was a magnificent display of unlikely pairings that simply worked. Bordeaux, canary yellow, chartreuse, and teal were among the star colors that made the collection one big party, one big homecoming. Welcome home, Rogers!
Images courtesy of Filippo Fior
Sandy Liang
Playful is the word that comes to mind for Sandy Liang’s debut show since becoming a new mother. The collection was an ode to nostalgia, with ‘90s references to childhood toys and school supplies. Popular among the Gen Z generation, her pieces have the twenty-something consumer in mind, tugging at hazy memories of the decade while incorporating practicality. Color-blocked pastels and smooth, slippery textures harken to an almost Polly Pocket-like aesthetic. Oversized windbreakers and quarter zips act like hand-me downs tossed over girlish floral printed skirts and minis. One skirt featured a trompe l’oeil of accessories likely found in the backpack of any given ‘90s girl: a planner book, an SMS device, two kitschy flower necklaces, and what appears to be a Tamagotchi-esque toy.
Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini
Collina Strada
Collina Strada’s fall collection evokes the undercurrents of pop culture’s resurgence of ‘90s grunge and modern emo pop, brought on by the likes of house and pop music icons of late. Hillary Taymour turned up the texture this season, showing shreds of ribbon, tattered woolen knits, layered laces, and ruffles.
A tee shirt of butterflies feasting on an open orange read “girl dinner,” catering to youthful fashion lovers that are in on Gen Z lingo. An interesting facet of the collection was the other worldly ways in which models’ hair was crimped just so to mimic horns. Bug-eyed glasses sat atop alienlike speckled faces. Forever compelling, Collina Strada keeps fashionphiles fed.
Images courtesy of Daniele Oberrauch
Anna Sui
For her refreshing-as-ever collection, Anna Sui turned to fashion heiresses of yesteryear, Doris Duke, Barbara Hutton, and Peggy Guggenheim. Anna Sui managed to weave these references with part of her legacy, coveted collector’s pieces. The marriage between cheeky magentas and blues against brown textures is a delightful summation of the two aesthetics that align to be completely original. Anna Sui takes aged elements and makes them entirely modern in a way that feels natural.
Images courtesy of Khaite
Khaite
Cult-favorite Khaite had a focused concept this season, taking inspiration chiefly from the late great American filmmaker David Lynch, referencing his films such as “Wild at Heart.” Her collection also stayed true to her customer: The New York City fashion girlie (gender used interchangeably, here).
Leather was the star of the show and for good reason, as Khaite always does the textile well. Glossy leather jackets and gloves set against felty newsboy caps served up a delightful juxtaposition of texture. Always a tailoring triumph, Khaite did her wearer proud this season.
Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini
Tory Burch
The Tory Burch girl is so back, and she is cooler than ever. Just ask her front row of spectators: fashion’s most prolific cool girls and influencers. This collection was an ode to what Burch does best: American sportswear. This particularly iteration featured a twist, which has marked Burch’s recent seasons. In fact, the collection, as a whole, was somewhat of an optical illusion. From afar, a well-tailored, polished, stylish amalgamation of her wearer. Upon closer inspection, curious details become apparent. A sleeve tacked across the chest and on the opposite shoulder mimics a shawl. Cropped jackets with myriads of pockets disguise themselves against a striking solid color. A seemingly tweed coat is surreptitiously freckled by sequins instead of woolen threads. Burch figures out a way to reinvent classics season after season and has fun all the while.
Images courtesy of Fillipo Fior
Bibhu Mohapatra
This past year, Bibhu Mohapatra traveled to India to scatter the ashes of his parents and older brother. With their funeral came unexpected memories of his childhood, and his collection reflected this, particularly his mother’s artwork.
Some looks elaborate in texture and pattern while others are monochrome and pared down. A shearling leather jacket worn over a purple sunburst floor-length gown shined. A black and white spaghetti-strap moment paired with matching red boots and evening gloves felt heroic. Mohapatra found the common ground between catering to his customer and telling his own beautiful story.
—Marley Gifford
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