Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has been a challenge and difficult for all of us. But out of tragedy, a phoenix can rise.

That said, out of tragedies that Bibhu Mohapatra has suffered over the past two years—losing his brother to COVID—Mohapatra looked to points of activism and redefinition for his spring 2023 collection. Out of his realignment and inspiration a phoenix did rise out of the proverbial ashes. That rebirth being Mohapatra’s spring 2023 collection.

Inspired by the late German artist and activist Claude Cahun, who proposed the idea of a “third sex,” Mohapatra used Cahun’s experimental use of masks to alter his appearance in self-portraits to re-examine the Mohapatra woman’s perspectives and points of view at ever jointure of her day. “Instead of using masks in the literal sense, I have tried to create many renditions of the Bibhu woman,” Mohapatra said in a article.

So, let’s examine who the Bibhu Mohapatra woman is. The Mohapatra is a woman who loves texture, embellishments, intricate design, and traditional silhouettes seen the lens of modernity.

Like many fashion designers this season, Mohapatra incorporated his version of the corset married with some of Mohapatra’s continued favorites—striped textiles, striped winged sleeves, black eveningwear, and monochromatic color palettes. New to Mohapatra’s aesthetic were his use of high/low looks and wide-legged pants with piping.

Standout looks in this collection was the brand’s Deauville-inspired, denim-inspired dress with denim corselet, wide-legged stiped pant with white lace floral top, floral black and white handkerchief, long skirt with black lace top, pale-blue poof cocktail dress with pale-blue train, and white and black floral print cocktail dress with long ribbed organza skirt overlay.

Images courtesy of

Now that Bibhu Mohapatra has a brick-and-mortar store, his fans and upcoming consumers will not have to wait for the big retailers to carry his collections. And that is a very good thing!!

—William S. Gooch


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