It is always a good thing when a brand returns to New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Especially if that brand happens to be Custo Barcelona. A mainstay of NYFW Custo Barcelona has not shown at NYFW for two years.
Always pushing the boundaries of what is appropriate in fashion. Creative Director Custo Dalmau always expands the creative palettes of his customer when it comes to color combinations, design silhouettes, fabrications, and even feminine and masculine aesthetics. And though he is sometimes ahead of the curve, his customer always catches up.
For the brand’s fall 2022 collection Custo Dalmau looked to shining again from within to radiate light and illuminate humanity. Custo’s collection played with shapes and patterns in a variety of fabrics and patterns with playful patches and word art on streetwear-inspired pieces.
The dresses were the core elements of the collection and other pieces were designed to complement these key pieces. Creative cut-outs and micro-mini shorts and skirts dominated the collection.
Shiny jacquards, multicolored sequins, vibrant-colored satins and velvet jacquards were expertly juxtapositioned to create a collection that was playful, yet sophisticated. More relaxed pieces included micro jumpsuits with tiny trousers and long sweatshirts styled as mini dresses. And the athleisure garments that bordered on references to 1960s space clothes added that special touch of fantasy and fun!!
Though this collection was heavy on streetwear with a strong athleisure wear influence, what stood out most in this collection was the strong outerwear garments, as well as Custo’s embrace of gender fluidity.
Images courtesy of The Riviere Agency
Gender fluidity is something that Custo Dalmau has never shied away from. However, in this collection, gender fluidity was front and center with many garments working equally well on both men and women.
And as always Custo Dalmau’s penchant for architectural shapes and graphic design elevated this collection from a collection that could have been overburdened with too many ideas and trends to a cohesive collection, though whimsical, that was a kaleidoscopic feast for the eyes. Custo Barcelona we are so glad you are back!!
—William S. Gooch
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