Surging off of his recent collaboration with Target, Haitian-born designer Victor Glemaud presented his fall/winter 2022 collection entitled “Black Beauty”. Dedicated to “the countless women who left their homelands for the American Dream,” this collection is inspired by the movie “Black Girl,” a 1966 film directed by Ousame Sembène, based on a true story that explores the themes of identity, colonialism, exploitation, and racism. Glemaud decided to showcase the idea of Black beauty viewed through the lens of immigration. He presented his collection against a mural stating “Hey New York, I’ve Arrived” in Daniel Patrick Moynihan Train Hall. Poignantly, Moynihan was the former United States Ambassador to the United Nations.
Populating his runway with only African models in a color palette of cafè au lait, chocolate brown, black, white, and clementine, Glemaud explains that fall is the season when he expresses new ideas. For the first time in six years, the brand has incorporated a new yarn into the collection, which allowed him to introduce cut and sew jersey into his garments for the first time. The fabrication creates a slinky and seductive silhouette while still holding it shape.
Keeping some of the creations light and airy, tonal mesh inserts keep the structure and form of the dress while giving the illusion of bare skin. There are also options with plunging cutouts that display your shoulders and back, highlighting the beauty of your skin without an illusion.
The ponte jersey dresses boldly introduce a modern interpretation of eveningwear that seamlessly ties in with comfort and ease of knitwear. There are also garments that look sleek and athletic enough to wear during the day, making this collection a true day-to-night offering.
Images courtesy of Dan Lecca
As this is a fall collection, there is a need for the wearer to be warm. To keep his customers protected from the cold, Glemaud has included natural fur options; a collaboration he’s had with Saga Fur since his fall 2019 collection. In a past interview with Fur Insider, Glemaud stated that he enjoys working with natural materials in his collections—cashmere, cotton, and merino wool—and fur was the next step in his evolution. Even though there is a lot of social commentary regarding the use of fur within the fashion industry, real fur is noted to be a natural, renewable, reusable, sustainable resource. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but Glemaud provides the option for those who want it.
This collection runs the gamut of athletic to formal options for a woman’s closet. With a minimalist range of color and well-tailored construction, the Victor Glemaud fall 2022 line easily appeals to the palette of a sophisticated customer.
—Carl Ayers
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