Christian Siriano showed his latest collection at one of Manhattan’s most iconic locations, the Empire State Building. The space itself set the tone for what was to be the designer’s strongest collection to date. The show notes on the seat read, “This season for fall 2022, we are calling the collection Victorian Matrix. The name comes from so many references to the time we are living in—some days feel like we are living in the Victorian era, while others feel like we’re living in the Matrix.”
Siriano’s musings about the state of fashion today translated to a compelling mix of these two disparate points of reference. What came down the runway reflected the mix between what one would wear in a brutal dystopian future juxtaposed with the heavy layering and embroideries of the Victorian period. He opened with a strong grouping of laminated denim looks that were futuristic and streamlined. Supermodel Coco Rocha wore a nipped in jacket with massive ruffles at the shoulder that resembled angel wings. Another standout look was a strapless knee length dress with matching opera gloves. The oversized blue zebra print fur coat would keep you warm in the most desolate burned-out landscapes. Slicked back hair by Jon Reyman for Dyson and edgy eye makeup by Charlotte Tilbury artist Sofia Schwartzkopf contributed to the effect as did blue-toned sunglasses, all the better to guard against a blinding sun that’s burning through a thinning ozone layer.
The show then took a more optimistic turn. It began with an interesting twist, a nod to modest fashion. The muted royal blue honeycomb cocoon seemed like just the right piece to wear while taking shelter in these tumultuous times. Cobalt blue pantsuits and dresses showcased Siriano’s sharp tailoring and signature ruffles and were just what the audience wanted.
Images courtesy of IMAXTREE
Evening gowns rounded out the show and demonstrated Siriano’s skill for designing eveningwear. Although they were mostly restricted to a somber palette of black and grey, they had the wow factor needed for the red carpet. Gowns spanned the gamut: a revealing opaque number with black netting adorned with floral silver sequins, a voluminous Victorian grey ballgown, and a fitted fishtail satin gown with oversized blue chambray collars and cuffs in line with modest fashion. Christian Siriano would be right at home filling the late Oscar de la Renta’s shoes.
—Vivian Kelly
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