Fashion News Alert: Marchesa’s Comeback, Australia Says Goodbye to ELLERY, Schiaparelli Has a New Director and Olivia Munn’s Fashion Backlash

Image courtesy of refinery29.com

Actress/model Olivia Munn has slammed the fashion blog Go Fug Yourself for criticizing Peter Pilotto stripped suit she wore to a gala for the Asian non-profit Apex for Youth. “This is just kinda like she got roped into making a sequel to “American Hustle” that ended up going straight to on-demand. Things could be worse,” said the critique on Go Fug Yourself as detailed on yahoolifestyle.com.Earlier in the month. Munn in a frilly Schiaparelli dress was described by Go Fug Yourself writer Jessica Morgan as though she looked like she was “peeing a wedding veil.” Go Fug Yourself is run by writers Jessica Morgan and Heather Cocks.

Munn clapped back at the site by posting an essay explaining that sites like Go Fug Yourself contribute to the “perpetual minimization of women and [propagating] the idea that our worth is predominately (or singularly) tied to our looks.” Morgan and Cocks have remained mum on their Olivia Munn wardrobe choices critiques.

That said; writers from Fashionista and Jezebel have given support to writers Morgan and Cocks by stating that criticizing what celebrities are wearing on red carpets is par for the course in an industry that is obsessed with celebrity fashion. Supporters also detailed that writers at Go Fug Yourself only criticizes the garments, never the celebrities’ physical appearance. They failed to mention all the clicks and likes sites of Go Fug Yourself’s ilk get from snarky celebrity comments.

Marchesa Bridal spring 2020 image courtesy of vogue.com

Marchesa’s resurgence

After two years of being on the downlow, so to speak, luxury brand Marchesa is aiming for a resurgence. Georgina Chapman and creative partner Keren Craig have decided to return Marchesa to the spotlight by showing the Marchesa Couture Bridal collection at the Valmont Barcelona Bridal Week. The Marchesa bridal show took place on April 24.

“We are thrilled to have the opportunity and the [honor] to unveil our creations in a very intimate way at the Barcelona Bridal Night,” commented the designers before the show.  The bridal collection was inspired by Rainer Maria Rilke’s Pathways poem was presented among a sea of orchids. 

Marchesa, founded in 2004, established itself as a go-to luxury based on its infinity for dressing many celebrities for red-carpet events and award ceremonies. After the Weinstein sexual misconduct allegations, many top celebrities abandoned the brand. (Harvey Weinstein was the husband of Marchesa co-founder Georgina Chapman.)

In the aftermath of the Weinstein scandal, Chapman and Craig have sought to re-establish Marchesa in the European market. Valmont Barcelona Bridal Week is one of the first steps in that direction.

ELLERY fall 2019 images courtesy of artistgroup.com

Australia’s loss

Kym Ellery is shuttering her eponymous brand ELLERY’s Australian location. After struggling with high manufacturing cost and being in an isolated fashion market, one of Australia’s most popular brand after what could be called 12 successful years in the market is closing its doors. Last week ELLERY closed its two Sydney stores and its Sydney-based production facility, Elleryland, has also closed.

“I am very proud to have built an independent, globally [recognized] fashion house from my home, Australia. [But] it has not been without its challenges,” the designer said in a statement released on Tuesday, as reported in fashionetwork.com. “Unfortunately, running the production out of Australia proved to be commercially unsustainable. As a result of some poor strategic decisions that were made, and the high cost of manufacturing in Australia, we have been left with no choice but to close Elleryland, our production facility and Australian operations company. “I have always championed Australian manufacturing, and this decision was incredibly difficult to make,” she concluded.

The brand will maintain its trademark and Paris-based design company, which will not be affected by the Australian closure. ELLERY will move its headquarters and chief operating offices to some European location.

In recent years ELLERY has shown its collections during Paris Fashion Week and is a member of the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. Several years ago, ELLERY showed in New York City during New York Fashion Week to critical acclaim.

Image courtesy of harpersbazaar.com

A new boss at Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli has a new creative director, Daniel Roseberry. Daniel Roseberry has spent the last 10 years working at Thom Browne as head of the women’s and men’s collections.

“It is my great honor and my joy to pick up where Mme. Schiaparelli left off some 85 years ago. Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today, we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world,” explains Rosewood.  
“Schiaparelli answered these questions with candor and humor, but one of her greatest legacies may be her commitment to fantasy, her understanding that we need fantasy in complicated times. I want to offer my own answers to these questions and offer a fantasy—a dream—that feels relevant, and necessary, for today.”

The House of Schiaparelli was taken over by billionaire Diego della Valle in 2007.  The noted couture house, as of late, has made a concerted effort to become more a part of the fashion mainstream by launching a capsule in Bergdorf Goodman in December 2018 and launching an accessories and ready-to-wear capsule collection that popped up in stores in September.

—William S. Gooch

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