Monique Lhuillier Fall/Winter 2012

In contrast to her spring/summer 2012 collection, in which Lhuillier funneled her couture aesthetic through a prism of streamlined, athletic-inspired garments, Lhuillier fall/winter 2012 collection was a fashion compendium on all things Lhuillier. From the lava and volcanic stones prints to the black and red palette, inspired by the “Year of the Dragon,” this season Lhuillier’s silhouettes were sharper and more forceful, even teetering on the edge of bondage and control.

Lhuillier, like many designers this season, embraced a 50’s silhouette evidenced in dresses that had more volume and gowns that gave a nod to the classic Hollywood glamor of the 1950s. By adding jumpsuits, slacks, and separates in this collection, Lhuillier is attempting to expand her brand beyond red-carpet and award-season fare.

The genius of Lhuillier in this outing was in her lava/volcanic stone prints. How the artisans that work with Lhuillier managed to print the lava pattern directly on to lace without diminishing the lacy effect of the fabric is a embellishment mystery; still, the look evoked a mood of sensual elegance.

Images courtesy of style.com

Lhuillier combined the current trends of sheer fabrics, lace and sequined embellishments expertly in this collection, without one trend overshadowing the others. And the standout piece was the closing look, a red lace ball gown with organza layered skirt.

—William Gooch

Zang Toi Fall/Winter 2012

Referencing Hollywood glamour is common fare for fashion designers whose oeuvre is red carpet looks and high end cocktail dresses. Still, very few designers do sophisticated glamour better than Zang Toi, so his choice of 60s Hollywood glamour was a match made in heaven.

 

For Zang Toi’s “Glamour at Gstaad” fall/winter 2012 collection, there was lots of emperor red, plunging necklines and fur embellishments. And it all worked beautifully, with styling that was sheer perfection.

In this collection Zang Toi dressed his customer at every jointure of her day, from an ivory wool boucle-sculpted skirt suit to a black cotton corduroy capelet trenchcoat to a ruby couture silk cotton column gown with beaded imperial garland court train.  The showstopper of the collection was the final look, a silk organza Gstaad ballgown with attached beaded black miniskirt.

And Zang Toi was able to keep this sophisticated, elegant collection, youthful and on trend; a feat that designers with more brand recognition and decades of experience still find arduous, if not formidable.

—William S. Gooch

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Tadashi Shoji Fall/Winter 2012

Season after season Tadashi Shoji presents collections that can flatter a variety of physiques and embraces a wide range of age demographics. Because Tadashi Shoji is primarily a red carpet/cocktail dress designer, you will probably not find separates; particularly tops and slacks in collections. (He designs were seen at the SAG and Golden Globes Awards this season.) However, what is most evident about Shoji is that his brand has evolved and each season he successfully incorporates a plethora of trends and color palettes.

This season Shoji looked to the Golden Age of Shanghai of the 1920s for inspiration. Shoji masterfully combined lace and sheer fabric trends in this collection; a feat that some designers struggled with. While in previous seasons Shoji stayed with neutrals and pastel colors, for this collection Shoji adopted a more vibrant color palette of deeps reds, sylvan greens, and rich autumn shades.

Images courtesy of style.com

There were several standouts in this collection from a 20’s‒inspired drop-waist dress done in a digital print taken from a Chinese painting to several red dresses and gowns of Chantilly lace and tulle.  Also, Shoji’s detail work and beaded embellishments elevated this collection from just a parade beautiful dresses and red carpet looks to a stunning fashion-forward interpretation of a golden era that demands closer examination and reflection.

—William S. Gooch

Rachel Roy Fall/Winter 2012

Rachel Roy referenced nature and the balanced elements of natural form and color for her fall/winter 2012 collection. Inspired by the documentary Women in the Dirt—an independent film about eight female architects who design spaces that combine natural elements of nature with manmade forms—Rachel Roy sought in this collection to juxtapose the organic constructs of nature against modern silhouettes and new textile technologies.

 As always with Rachel Roy, linear, architectural silhouettes are expressed through an organic sensibility. With color palettes that ranged from eucalyptus, grainy grey, garnet, sapphire, and autumnal orange, in contrast to Roy’s spring/summer 2012 collection, this collection was more fashion forward and spared down with less layered looks.

Images courtesy of HLGroup

There were several standouts in this collection, from the garnet/foliage reversible shearling coat to the landscape, striped sustainable flannel dress. However, Rachel Roy’s winning moment was in her great suede footwear expressed in foliage green and autumnal mauve.

—William Gooch

Eric Tibusch: Combining Old Hollywood with French Elegance

The art of couture has always been reserved for those brave souls who have the requisite technical skill, the creative genius, and quite frankly, the nerve to create one-of-a-kind looks in a market that is oversaturated with sometimes, unspectacular ready-to-wear garments. Remember, what we now know as the fashion industry started out solely as an expression of couture creations, gradually morphing into prêt-a-porter in the 1960s and 70s.

Still, there are those who choose to express their vision in perhaps the most difficult and expertly scrutinized segment of the industry. Eric Tibusch is one of those courageous young couturiers who has found his œuvre in the uncompromising world of haute couture. From collections that reference bygone iconic couture houses to being inspired by the limitless possibilities of the feminine silhouette, Tibusch after five seasons is becoming a couture force to be reckoned with.

After his 2012 Fall couture collection in Paris, Eric Tibusch graciously spoke with Fashion Reverie about his passion, his inspiration and his unquenchable thirst for beauty.

Fashion Reverie: Your couture collections are always fashion forward but definitely reference past fashion icons like Elsa Schiaparelli and others. Could you speak about that?

Eric Tibusch: To be honest, I’m a big movie buff ; culture in its broadest sense is very important to me. References such as French haute couture houses (Elsa Schiaparelli) are a part of my French DNA. However, in my collections, references from the past mix with my projections for the future.

FR: There is always a surprise in your couture collections; an exposed leg here; a titillating glimpse there. Why this particular design aspect to your couture collections?

Eric Tibusch: I like to deconstruct and reinvent clothing. I am always trying to develop, for my couture collections, an unusual, crazy sense of creativity.

 FR: You also use lots of models of color. Could you speak about that?

Eric Tibusch: I always integrate models of color into my runway shows and campaigns because it expands perceptions of beauty and elegance. A variety of skin colors uniquely sublimates color associations.

FR: For your Fall/Winter 2011 collection you stayed on trend by using sheer fabrics such as silk organza, chiffons and chantilly lace. However, you combined these sheer fabrics with some very interesting textures such as alligator, crocodile, fox and monkey fur. Why these combinations?

Eric Tibusch: For me, combining different fabrics in an unusual way represents the independent, rock star spirit. I like to mix different materials, which is a kind of adventurous risk, and when mixed together, actually works and distills an aesthetic never seen before.

FR: What is the inspiration for your current couture collection?

Eric Tibusch: Movie actresses from the Hollywood’s Golden Age, such as Joan Crawford, Gloria Swanson, Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich, Grace Kelly, Bette Davis, and Marilyn Monroe, had a large influence on cinema and fashion and created the concept of Hollywood glamour.

Those movie stars still shine in my mind. I revisit these classics in my current couture collection using solstice chantilly-embroidered lace and linen organza, combined with leather. I pay tribute to Hollywood, where American chic meets French elegance.

Rudolf Valentino, Clark Gable, Marlon Brando and the emblematic figure of the Great Gatsby inspired me to recreate Hollywood’s masculine elegance. For this collection, I recreated the kind of mystery that still inspires today’s man, using the most luxurious materials such as Loro Piana’s super 160 Summer Tasmanian. I also link the masculine and the feminine figure by using the current trend of diaphanous, sheer fabrics.

FR: Why did you include menswear in your current couture collection ?

Eric Tibusch: I decided to include menswear in this collection because in recent years the menswear market has become very strong. Also for the past two years, I have dreamed of creating a collection that contained clothes that I would want to wear. My vision of menswear is a classic approach with a touch of whimsy and creativity mixed with a solid foundation of masculine charm.

 FR: What are your fabric choices in this collection?

Eric Tibusch: In this couture collection I use leather, silk and lace textures and fabrics used in previous collections. However, in this outing I also incorporated some new materials, like naturals flowers, duck wing feathers and some wood products.

FR: Who is your customer?

Eric Tibusch: My customer spans a wide age demographic from 20 years of age to very mature women. My clientele is also every international, from the US to Russia, Japan, Middle Eastern countries, England, and of course France.

Images courtesy of Eric Tibusch

FR: In this economic downturn, how have you adjusted your brand to withstand a challenging economy?

I launched my fashion house in 2006, which was early in the financial crisis.  That said, my fashion house is surviving this downturn. In fact, we don’t know what it is to have a fashion house in good economic times. And perhaps, this crisis has caused us to be more creative.

FR: What is next for you ?

Eric Tibusch: I’m already working on the next couture collection, and the ready-to-wear collection will soon be available in boutiques and retail stores, as well as my new jewelry collection.

—William S. Gooch

Eric Tibusch image courtesy of fashioninsider.com

Robert Graham Fall/Winter 2012

If there was one predominant theme evidenced in the men’s fall/winter collection, that theme would be lots of color. Though Robert Graham fall/winter collection debuted a week before Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Graham was on trend with a kaleidoscope of autumnal colors. Though this collection contained a few women’s look, in this outing Robert Graham concentrated primarily on his menswear.

From great denim pieces to the eclectic mix of well-tailored jackets and outerwear, Graham’s mien centers around comfortable, stylish garments that wide variety of American men would want to wear.  And Graham’s fashion-forward shoe wear in this collection—Graham’s first collection—complemented the very masculine silhouettes.

There were no big wow moments in this small collection; still, Graham should be commended for understanding how many American want to look from head to toe. Lastly, Graham’s point of view of how to mix and match textures and blend color palettes is in its own way a stroke of genius.

—William S. Gooch

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