Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim: Red Carter Resorts 2013

 

Images courtesy of miami.com


Red Carter Resorts 2013 was a total flashback to the disco era (late 1960’s to 1970’s … calling all baby boomers!). The queen of disco, Donna Summer (may she rest in peace), would have loved this collection! We went back to a psychedelic, none-the-less cohesive collection. The opening voiceover of Scissor Sister’s “Kiki,” started this theatrical show and inspired the models to rock their best club goers’ looks (think Studio 54).

It all began with models strutting the runway with big earrings, high stilettos and blonde, sassy wigs, all the while swinging shiny silver disco-ball purses. Providing further evidence of one of the 2013 swimsuit trends, the collection consisted of bright neon colors including rainbow colored maillots, bikinis and unikinis. There were also sexy pieces in black and white accessorized with gold, silver and black hairpieces, shoes and jewelry. Though some of the garments, because of the maillot side cut-outs, may create some wearable challenges, the magnificent arrow pattern made the piece unique, sassy and utterly ingenious.

The second notable trend in swimwear was the use of tribal accessories in vibrant colors (red, yellow & orange) then followed up with tribal swimsuit motifs, further highlighted with yellow, gray and white shoes. Lastly, the attention-grabbing, stunning, gold hair cones interwoven into the models’ ponytails made everyone stand up and take notice.

Though the large black and red feathers distracted from the collection, from the opening look to the finale, this entertaining homage to disco kept the crowd entertained.

 

Images courtesy of Darryl Reece

Who says disco is dead? Viva la disco!

—Olga Maria Czarkowski

Simply Dresses Holiday 2012

By presenting great dresses that are kind to a woman’s pocketbook as well her figure, Simply Dresses has stayed true to its point of view for holiday 2012. And what is the Simply Dresses’ point of view? Great looks for less that are chic and fashion-forward.  Though the economy is slowly recovering, Simply Dresses understands that the average consumer is still hesitant about shelling out a lot of cash for great looks for that office holiday or Christmas and New Year’s Eve party. So, true to form this fashion-forward aggregate site for great cocktail dresses and accessories has inventory that ranges in price points from under $100 to around $500.

As the go-to site for affordable prom, cocktail dresses and gowns, Simply Dresses has chosen brands that have incorporated several continuing trends into their collections. From the continuing trend of metallic fibers, to lace embellishments to the diaphanous fabrics trend to vibrant color, Simply Dresses is the one-stop shop for affordable holiday garments and accessories.

Images courtesy of Sherri Hill

Simply Dresses’ list of designer brands is a who’s who of chic, affordable cocktail and party dresses. From French Connection to Sherri Hill to Faviana to La Femme, Simply Dresses has an incredible range of garments that can satisfy a variety of design aesthetics and tastes.

For holiday 2012, Simply Dresses ingeniously has added a plethora of black cocktail dresses in a variety of styles and fabrications. From off-the shoulder, form-forgiving dresses that have a hint of come hither, to innovative interpretations of the classic black dress that at a glance is deceptively simple, but at further examination is tastefully detailed and chic. And if the classic black cocktail dress is too demure, there is a bevy of colorful holiday dresses that are attention-grabbing, but still tasteful and stylish.

Images courtesy of Simply Dresses

Simply Dresses is proving time and time again that women don’t have to break to bank to get great, affordable holiday garments that are well put together and fashion-forward.

For more information, go to simplydresses.com.

—William S. Gooch

 

Ellery Resort/Holiday 2012/2013

When a designer decides to create a holiday/resort collection, the collection usually consists of sexy poolside looks, voluminous caftans, easy, relaxed shorts sets and lightweight linens for holiday or shiny sequined dresses and metallic tops for holiday. Australian designer Kym Ellery has deviated from the standard fare of holiday/resort collections, creating her own unique perspective on where resort/holiday is heading.

In Ellery’s 2012/2013 holiday/resort collection, Kym Ellery expands the diaphanous fabric trend of the last few seasons by taking silk chiffons, tulle, and organza and doubling the fabric over several times, creating a still sexy, ethereal aesthetic, but also facilitating a more wearable and attractive fabrication for the average consumer. Ellery takes the continuing trends of metallic fibers, matte sequins, color gradients, and green as a must-have color for fall/winter and funnels all these trends through her thoughtful lens of cutting-edge, deconstructed resort/holiday garments.

Though there is a definite sportswear influence in this collection, as well as some menswear references, Ellery primary point of reference is Madame Gres, with a definitive nod to Balenciaga, evidenced in Ellery’s draping and voluminous silhouettes. Still, the point of view and direction is decidedly Ellery’s own.

Though her childhood teddy bear was her inspiration in this outing, Ellery has taken this collection far beyond cuddly toys and childhood innocence. Architectural silhouettes, high necklines and sharp, high shoulders, and fashion-forward bomber jackets suggest that Kym Ellery’s sensibilities are perfectly aligned to wear resort wear is heading.

—William S. Gooch

Images courtesy of Ellery

Kara Ross Resort/Holiday 2013

As the resort market continues to grow, accessories designers are not only standing up and taking notice of this continuing, expansive segment of the fashion industry, but finding innovative ways of taking advantage of this boom. From an early age Kara Ross has had a love affair with gemstones and jewelry making. For her 2012/2013 collection Ross looked to a kaleidoscope of vivid colors and hues and the great art movements of the past for inspiration.

Tapping into the continuing trend of animal prints in vibrant colors, Kara Ross ingeniously combines the rich color palettes of blazin’ pink, turquoise and green with the exotic reptile skins of alligator, lizard, and python. This resort season for the first time Ross utilized tortoise resin, as well as clear crystals. “We were using the python before in other collections for our handbags and we had all this scrap leftover, so for this collection to be more thrifty and cost-conscious we used the leftover scraps from our handbags and made some interesting jewelry,” details Kara Ross.

Expanding upon the color trend, Kara Ross looked to the Fauvist tradition in art, particularly the work of Georges Braque, evidenced in colorful pieces that  produce a strong emotional reaction.  “We took very bright pictures from fashion magazines and collaged it onto wood. The result is lots of bright color and jewelry that is very lightweight. Also, the beauty in these items is that you don’t know exactly what the jewelry is made of,” explains Ross.

Again looking to Georges Braque in his Cubist period, there are several pieces in the resort collection that express a Cubist aesthetic through rounded geometric form and repetitive patterned shapes. Ross enhances these pieces by employing crystals and animal skins which plays on the shadow and silhouette of each item.

Kara Ross 2012/2013 resort collection images courtesy of AtelierPR

Kara Ross’ 2012/2013 resort/holiday collection would not be complete without the gem-shaped clutch bags that she is known for. She expands upon her signature gem-shaped clutch bags by incorporating pantone-colored fabrications of python, lizard, and alligator. Ross has even included a clutch large enough for an I-Pad and small laptop.

For more information about Kara Ross’ 2012/2012 resort/holiday collection, go to kararossny.com

Chado Ralph Rucci Resort/Holiday 2013

For Resort/Holiday 2013, Ralph Rucci infused color and texture into his 30-plus piece collection. Now, texture is no stranger to Rucci; Rucci has always incorporated into lots of textures and layering of different fabrications into all his collections regardless of the season or the trends. Still, for his resort/holiday 2013 Rucci expressed this layering technique in some very interesting and innovative ways. Only Ralph Rucci would consider using multiple layers of linen combined with subtle accents of organza and netting. And Rucci’s combination of soft sequins with peek-a-boo netting renders just the right mix of sass and seduction.

There are many influences in this resort collection, the most obvious being Rucci’s ongoing love affair with all things Asian and architectural construction. However, there are some 60s Mod influences, as well as a hint of a 1920s aesthetic evidenced in Rucci’s matte jersey dresses that flare out just above the knee.

With Rucci’s use of Ultrasuede, Rucci is paying homage to his former mentor Halston. Also, Rucci use of wide-legged pants gave a nod to the 70s; particularly, Rucci’s pongee silk green pajama pant ensemble, which was one of the true standouts in this collection.

The genius of Ralph Rucci is that he can take something as classic as the simple black cocktail dress and add a series of simple details, thereby reinventing this look and making it relevant to a variety women from different age and body demographics. Rucci’s sequined, black cocktail dress with netting peek-a-boo meets the definition of reinventing the wheel.

Always innovative with superb craftsmanship, Rucci’s intellectual approach to design is deeply rooted in fashion as wearable art with a unique understanding of what women want to want to wear. This collection was no exception. Bravo Ralph!!

—William S. Gooch

Chado Ralph Rucci 2013 Resort/Holiday images courtesy of Chado Ralph Rucci

Nonoo Resort/Holiday 2013

The excitement continues in 2012 for emerging brand Nonoo. Since opening an independent showroom in Soho and winning the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award for women’s ready-to-wear, creative director Misha Nonoo is riding a wave of personal satisfaction, as well as an expansion of the brand.

Known for her commitment to expert tailoring and sculptural silhouettes, for her 2013 resort collection Misha Nonoo looked to the Countess Mountbatten of Burma and her sense of style for inspiration. By combining botanical prints and vicereine paisley with lace details and sequined embellishments, Nonoo successfully demonstrates in this collection how colonial influences and indigenous cultures can create a synthesis of styles and silhouettes seen through a kaleidoscope of vivid colors, textures and fabrications.

Images courtesy of Deborah Hughes Inc.

Nonoo also expertly marries vintage silhouettes from the 1940s and 70s evidenced in wide-legged pants with shoulder- padded blouses rendering an updated image of 40s screen icons Veronica Lake and Dorothy Lamour meets 70s sitcom queen Mary Tyler Moore.

For more information, go to nonoony.com.

—William S. Gooch

Falguni and Shane Peacock Fall/Winter 2012

Falguni and Shane Peacock turned the volume way up in their second outing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. As purveyors of rock n’ roll chic combined with a fashion-forward sensibility, Falguni and Shane Peacock have gathered a significant following among pop singers, celebrities, media personalities and that edgy consumer who wants garments that shock and awe.

In this outing the design duo went a bit further. What was most evident in their fall/winter 2012 collection is that Falguni and Shane Peacock are genius at mixing trends and layering embellishments in a way that is not garish or overdone.

Though this collection had a dark gothic, sinister quality, which set well with the punk 80s aesthetic that was projected throughout the collection; there was a lightness of being in the combination of sheer fabrics paired with sequin and feathers‒embellished tribal prints.

Falguni and Shane Peacock also used a variety of model prototypes in their show, from a punked-out, crew cut, androgynous beauty to pony-tailed vixens. Falguni and Shane Peacock believe that their clothes go from chic to edgy, with a nod to the devilish rebel, culminating in an aesthetic that screams rockstar. Rock on!!

—William Gooch

Stephen Burrows Fall/Winter 2012

“New York City, New York City girl,” crooned Odyssey, the 70s disco group. And that song describes the inspiration that is so much a part of Stephen Burrows’ point of view and runway presentations, especially his fall/winter 2012 collection.

In this outing, Burrows continued his love affair with knit jersey and color blocking, distilled through the prism of a 70s aesthetic. Super tight jeans, a result of Burrows’ collaboration with Raven Jeans, wide-legged pants and chevron motifs all added to sexiness of this collection. “Uneven chevron is a signature motif of mine, so we found different ways to integrate that motif into the collection using color blocking.  Sometimes you have ups and downs in life. So that was an inspiration for us this season. We are also incorporating stretch denim into this collection. What can I say, body-conscious clothes was the order of the day this time out,” details Burrow.

Marry this sexy vibe with Burrows’ special brand of flirty models and you have a show that takes you back to a time where supermodels ruled on the runway and fashion shows were a reflection of the designer’s philosophy of life. As always knit jersey is Burrows fabric of choice, a fabric that has been a major part of his collection for over 30 years. “The main reason that I use jersey season after season is because it is comfortable and gives with the body,” explains Burrows.

And as knit jersey gives and conforms to body, Stephen Burrows continues to give to fashion community and consumers more and more of his genius

—William Gooch

Images courtesy of style.com

Custo Barcelona Fall/Winter 2012

Custo Barcelona has always been known for its eclectic, cutting-edge, rock n’ roll fashion. Though this season was no exception, the brand presented looks that were more a bit more commercial. The genius of this collection was to make some order out of the disparate points of view and references and contrasting fabrications and silhouettes. Out of this goulash of inspirations, emerged a collection that was adventurous, fun and many ways retail friendly.

Custo Barcelona has a reputation for mixing and matching. And sometimes their assemblage of fabric choices and kaleidoscopes of colors comes off as a brilliant, but disordered mishmash. However, evidenced in this collection, the brand is evolving to an interesting viable projection to wear fashion is heading.   In other words, they are developing a method to their perceived madness.

Images courtesy of style.com

Custo Barcelona referenced several trends from past seasons in this collection, from tribal prints to crystal and sequin embellishments to early 70s fringed looks. And the menswear in this collection had a decidedly British mod/ hybrid 80s British pop band aesthetic. From the fringed sequined, sleeveless hoodies paired with miniskirts to the wild wool suits with leather fabrications, creative director Custo Dalmau ingeniously found a way to make contrasting volumes combined with odd embellishments fashion-forward, but still stylish. Custo Barcelona rock on!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Betsey Johnson Fall/Winter 2012

Betsey Johnson looked to the Fab Four and Carnaby Street of the 1960s for inspiration for her fall/winter 2012 collection. As usual, the frothy, frolicky attitude that Betsey Johnson is known for permeated this collection; still, there were some highly retail looks, and always with Betsy there was lots of color, and in this case, the psychedelic palette color ruled the day.

From psychedelic prints to coats with faux fur trim to  skinny herringbone suits to sequined mini dresses, Betsey’s sometimes literal translation of 60s British mod mixed well with pieces that reflected Betsey’s signature girlie aesthetic.

This collection proved that even after several decades in the industry, Betsey Johnson still marches to her own drum, knows how to keep her fashion-forward customers happy, and always puts on a good show. Bravo Betsey!!

—William S. Gooch

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

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