Nautica Spring/Summer 2013

What can be said about Nautica. Every season Nautica presents a collection that stays very close to the brand’s signature look. There is very little variation on the theme of seaworthy, nautical references. And you would think that after several decades of the same linear approach, Nautica would have outlived this singular predilection. Not so!! Season after season, Nautica injects new energy and a fashion-forward sensibility that keeps the brand interesting and viable despite its penchant for all things nautical.

For spring/summer 2013, Nautica looked to the vibrant colors of the open seas. Several of this collection’s shorts were infused with underwater tropical prints and patterns and some of the detailing on shirts and jackets contained similar patterns.

Some of the standouts in the collection were a great white leather toggle coat and a color blocked white and blue shirt, paired with a bright white cotton/nylon pant. Also, by combining a black leather bomber with yellow cotton poplin cargo pants, Nautica proves that by incorporating the neon color trend into this spring/summer 2013 collection that they understand that though their demographic likes updated classic silhouettes, their consumer is also not afraid of strong color palettes.

Nautica spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

By reinvigorating the classics with continuing trends of color blocking and bold, vibrant colors, Nautica never seems dated. And that is why consumers keep coming back for more!!

—William S. Gooch

General Idea Spring/Summer 2013

Photos courtesy of Ernest Green

General Idea’s Bumsuk Choi has taken traditional lumberjack attire and added some innovative flare for a wearable modern point of view for his  2013 spring/summer collection.  Choi was inspired by the documentary film The Last Lumberjacks by Yu Guangyi, which describs the diminished work of real life lumberjacks in China due to the development of fast growing cities.

Channeling The Last Lumberjacks, Choi  has employed a color palette that incorporates earth tomes of  khaki and mustard with subtle splashes of neon. Many of the prints are outdoors inspired featuring camouflage and plaid.

Photos courtesy of Ernest Green

Silhouettes that are key to this collection give homage to the aesthetic of the documentary film, exploiting toughness and solitude. From leather bomber jackets to shorts with camouflage detail, many of the garments are ideal for the fashion-forward dude who wants to compliment his wardrobe with looks that are bit more aesthetically rugged.

Photos courtesy of Ernest Green

The grey long sleeve sweaters and beige collarless trench coat really express General Idea as a menswear brand that pushes the envelope in terms of edge but with still wearable clothes for the modern man. Key garments like the solid long sleeve tops, navy shorts, and denim jackets are basic pieces that transition well throughout the spring and summer seasons.

Photos courtesy of Ernest Green

General Idea gives men classic, modern looks that can be styled traditionally or  in a variety of ways but still  make a statement. Spring 2013 is all about keeping it simple but with innovative twists.

–Cory Orlando

Nicole Miller Spring/Summer 2013

It’s no secret that designer Nicole Miller has been pushing to give her venerable label a more youthful appeal. Her company’s efforts were chronicled earlier this year in the Sundance Channel series All On The Line, a reality series that follows designers as they try to revive, or in Miller’s case, revamp their lines with the help of Elle Magazine‘s creative director Joe Zee. And Miller recently launched a new ready to wear line, Artelier, which has a more youthful point of view.

Miller’s spring/summer 2013 collection reflected the designer’s dip into the Fountain of Youth. For the most part, Miller hit all the right notes, finding just the right balance between youthful energy and Miller’s more traditional brand of funky chic. But there were moments when the results were contrived with the designer working too hard to make an impression. Nothing is worse, after all, than someone who tries too hard to be cool or hip.

The (very) brief show notes distributed before the collection showing alluded to the challenge. Miller called her “Batteries Not Included” collection a “juxtaposition of improbable things.” And in Miller’s fashion lexicon, that meant a rainbow-bright blending of contrasting influences—digital floral prints; techno with retro; hard and soft; masculine with feminine, streamlined with flounces.

An Omni Stripe print that resembled faded rock concert glow sticks on a black background gave a series of silk shirts and skinny pants a fun, Ultra-Brite feel. Bright was also the order of the day with Miller’s purple and hot pink Future Flora floral print, which was used particularly well in looks like a funky combo print bustier dress. Techno was represented by a series in a pixilated pattern, including a striking black and white jacquard peplum top and a jacquard minidress that had an almost 3-D effect. And flowing, sheer tunic shirts sometimes topped by biker jackets added to the decidedly downtown feel.

But Miller’s long-short theme became a bit overdone. Peplums, double peplums, pleated peplums, long skirts over shorts, short skirts over long skirts and pants. The procession of looks started to feel as if Miller was ticking off items on a fashion design to-do list.

Nicole Miller spring/summer images courtesy of gorunway.com, photographed by Marcus Tondo

Still, this fresher, funkier Nicole Miller is a good push in the right direction, showing that Miller has found a way to rejuvenate her style without losing her way.

—Karyn D. Collins

 

Bespoken Spring/Summer 2013

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week continues to bring out all the stops and though most of the menswear collections are shown off site, a few men’s brands, including Bespoken, were held in some of the venues that are a part of the Lincoln Center Plaza. For spring/summer 3013 Bespoken had an eclectic taste mixing eye-catching prints with bold colors along with a range of pieces to choose from including polish jackets, colorful pants, hipster hats, and preppy sweaters. Whether it’s going out on the town, meeting with friends for a casual night, or looking stylish in the office, this collection seemed to have a little something for the man with a flare for style.

“We were inspired by nomadic gypsies … we wanted to mix different styles and meet them work” explained designer Paulo Goncalves. The Bespoken design team, Paulo Goncalves, Liam and Sammy Fayed, wanted to provide their diverse fan base with garments that fit their diverse lifestyles and spoke to the attitude of the stylish man who wants a variety of styles and garments in his spring wardrobe. And the Bespoken team didn’t disappoint.

Bespoken spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of wwd.com

Whether you’re a smooth-talking guy with a rocker’s edge or a laid-back hipster with a preppy feel, Bespoken has something for every man who wants to be fashion forward.

—Dana E. Givens

Emerson Spring/Summer 2013

Creative director Jackie Fraser-Swan caused audiences stand up and take notice with Emerson’s spring/summer 2013 collection. While staying true to her signature aesthetic of fusing and contrasting elements of rock and romance or some sugar with a dash of spice, her 1970’s horror film‒inspired collection wowed.

Taking cues from horror flicks like The Amityville Horror, Burnt Offerings, and Carrie, red was definitely the hot color in this collection matched against feminine silhouettes. Though Fraser-Swan consistently stayed with 70s inspired looks, she brought her point of view into the present by going a modern twist featuring sleeveless peplum, black and white varsity jackets, and electric blue gowns. Fabrications included red velvet tulle, which played an important role throughout the collection inspiration; nylon and printed silks, which helped bring her fashion-forward horror, show to life.

Emerson spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of style.com

Though this collection was horror film-inspired, without all the right elements this collection would have been too literal and just another horror film homage. Well, Jackie Fraser-Swan expertly understood how to make this outing about the clothes and not just the film genre. Fraser-Swan was able to translate her dark inspiration into an elegant yet fun collection that will definitely attract the attention of fashionistas everywhere.

—Dana E. Givens

Nina Skarra Spring/Summer 2013

In her first Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week appearance, Norwegian designer Nina Skarra combined sleek, classic silhouettes with a minimalistic point of view. As with most Scandinavian creatives, less is always more, and Nina Skarra is no exception.

Though Skarra’s spring/summer 2013 collection harkened back to very simple 60s and 70s silhouettes, Skarra kept her collection fresh and fashion forward by incorporating new textile technologies. And by also using sustainable fabrics, Nina Skarra, without radicalizing eco-friendly points of view, subtly demonstrated that it possible to make beautiful eco-sustainable garments that women want to wear that are youthful and full of charm.

There was something in this collection for every woman. From sophisticated gowns and garden party dresses to interesting knits that can be styled in a variety of ways, Skarra understood, like many designers this season that women are looking for transitional pieces that will stay in their wardrobe for more than one season.

Nina Skarra spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Beautiful Planning Marketing

Nina Skarra stayed with a pale muted palette of soft corals, carnation, light beiges,ecru and pale greens. Though Skarra’s silhouettes reflected back to Halston and Calvin Klein silhouettes of the 70s, by bringing in elements of padded shoulders, layering of diaphanous fabrics, latticed techniques and some peek-a-boo elements, Skarra elevated this collection from an homage to classic silhouettes we are all familiar with to her own compendium on what is going to be fresh and retail viable for spring 2013.

—William S. Gooch

 

Nanette Lepore Spring/Summer 2013

Nanette Lepore’s spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of style.com

Nanette Lepore has always showed a knack for defining fresh femininity for grownups. This is a designer who understands the difference between dressing with youthful vitality and dressing like a kid. With her spring/summer 2013 collection, Lepore also found ways to bring a classic inspiration forward into the now while still retaining the beautiful essence of the original.

The collection opened with a series of looks that celebrated the lush greenery and spirit of Brazil (the show was accompanied by a live performance by the band Brazilian Girls).  And green played a key role throughout the collection in solid pieces as well as a delicate floral.

Images courtesy of mbfashionweek.com

The floral patterns were inspired by antique china from a museum exhibit but Lepore found many ways to keep the collection fresh and fashion forward.  Several pieces in a coral floral shifted from black flowers on a deep coral to white flowers on a faded coral, teasing the eye to look and then look again. Silhouettes remained simple, such as a lovely coral print v-neck dress.

A green clover print was given a contemporary edge when combined with a black and white check, a fun way to turn the traditional on its ear. The combination of two seemingly disparate patterns somehow worked beautifully as with a clover raffia jacket Lepore paired with check shorts.

And one of the most striking pieces, a simple strapless dress, was made anything but simple by starting with the dark floral on coral pattern at the bodice, shifting to an aqua floral on pistachio print at the center and ending with the coral on green clover print. It was the perfect embodiment of Lepore’s tropical classical mashup.

—Karyn D. Collins

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Duckie Brown Spring/Summer 2013

Photo courtesy of Ernest Green

Slick, strong, structured. Duckie Brown brings youthful sportiness and heritage to their spring/summer 2013 collection. Designers Daniel Silver and Steven Cox stay true to the brandby incorporating raw denim and tartan patterns.

From bomber jackets to trousers with crisp cuffs, Duckie Brown has been on the forefront of making menswear fashion-forward and progressive. The traditional Scottish tartan was sprinkled throughout the collection in both separates and full-body looks.

Photo courtesy of Ernest Green

In this collection, Brown combine pastels and neutrals with geometrical-patterned jackets. All looks had lots of detail and were  flawlessly constructed. The newest addition to the brand were the draped pants concept which is  a departure from Duckie Brown’s fall 2012 collection which  featured loosely layered ensembles.

Photo courtesy of Ernest Green

Versatile separates are ideal for comfort and durability, while the workwear-inspired garments are a must have for spring 2013. The neutral tone yet simple silhouette of many of the motorcycle jackets are ideal for the consumer  who wants more items that can transition from spring to fall. What Duckie Brown has ingeniously done this collection is paired traditional menswear silhouettes with unconventional cuts, fabrications, and forms. And it all works!!

Photo courtesy of Ernest Green

Rounding out Duckie Brown’s spring/summer collection was raglan sleeve tee shirts and charcoal check linen cuff trousers. Duckie Brown, in collaboration with Florsheim, has designed a “skaddle” shoe, which is directly influenced by  skateboarding.

– Cory Orlando

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2013

This seems to be the season for the emergence of a new millennial age of urban chic. While there certainly any number of designers exploring the bright side of summer, a large number of designers seem to have latched onto a darker, tough-edged brand of pretty.

Among those making that transition is Prabal Gurung who showed his collection Saturday during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at the sweatbox called Pier 57. In truth, Gurung has been gradually shifting towards a harder shade of brilliance for a couple of seasons now, a marked change from the pretty Ladies Who Lunch‒type cocktail outfits that were his initial claim to fame.

For his latest collection, Gurung said he drew inspiration from the work of the Indian-born British sculptor Anish Kapoor, whose creations include the red “Orbit” sculpture in London’s Olympic Park.  Classic Kurtas worn by women in Gurung’s native Nepal also served as a reference point, the designer said.

The mostly pleasing results in this latest collection saw some wonderful blends of these themes as well as Gurung’s trademark strengths in tailoring and his way with a cocktail dress. The show’s opening look, for example, featured a beautifully tailored porcelain silk cotton hand-embroidered jacket splashed with a Kapoor-esque aluminum and ice design that shimmered with maco beads. Other looks featured Kapoor-like “explosions” with splashes of color and/or beading. Muscle tees and tanks with graphic design inserts also gave the collection an athletic punch.

Prabal Gurung spring/summer 2013 images photographed by Monica Feudi, courtesy of style.com

And Gurung’s drop waist cocktail dresses gave the collection an extra jolt of excitement with a breathtaking combination of embroidery, hand-painted fabric and ostrich feathers.  Not every woman can pull off an ostrich feather cocktail dress, one of which bore an eerie resemblance to drips of blood. But then not every designer can make such a creation actually look appealing.

—Karyn D. Collins

Carmen Marc Valvo Spring/Summer 2013

Say the name Carmen Marc Valvo and certain key characteristics come to mind —clothes that show a real understanding of and appreciation for a real woman’s body, and painstaking attention to detail. For his spring/summer 2013 collection Valvo brought those two characteristics together in a sleek, sophisticated collection that was inspired by Japanese origami.

Carmen Marc Valvo images courtesy of mbfashionweek.com

Once again, Valvo showed his mastery. Where a lesser designer might have thought it enough to show a clever knack for manipulating fabric, Valvo used the origami folds in wonderful ways to enhance and flatter the figure.

Of course everyone is utilizing draping these days as if some designers had discovered the shape enhancement effects not only look pretty, but succeed at the cash register.

Valvo’s been there, done that.

Instead, for spring 2013 Valvo’s creations featured clean lines with clever folds here and there—folds at the bust line to accentuate a belted waist, for example, a gentle cascade of ruffles down one side—a recurring motif that flattered the hips. The Japanese influence carried over to the kimono wrap style of several blouses.

A brocade in blue and black and red and black was softened by black Chantilly lace, bringing a serene but still vibrant note to the collection. color conversation happening or the season.

Among the most winning looks were Valvo’s lace glass sequined tops and bodices on gowns, which the designer said were inspired by Samurai warrior breastplates. Here was true power dressing for a night on the town.

—Karyn D. Collins

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