Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown Spring/Summer 2013

Photo courtesy by Ernest Green

For spring/summer 2013 designers Stephen Cox and Daniel Silver make their creative debut with Perry Ellis by staying true to the brand’s signature look, but also adding a twist seen with their other brand, Duckie Brown.

Photo courtesy by Ernest Green

In this collection there are hints of the iconic Perry Ellis silhouettes seen in structured shirts and bomber jackets. Above-the-knee shorts, blazers, and knit shirts round out this collection, giving a  more current look to Perry Ellis.  Still, Cox and Silver inject a bit of their own Duckie Brown personality with dropped crotches and muted stripes.

Photo courtesy by Ernest Green

This spring collection is all about blurring the lines between casual and formal wear for men. Though Cox and Silver gave the brand a more youthful spirit, male consumers can look forward to signature pieces similarly seen in previous collections. Tactile suede along with a color palette featuring wheat, beige, army green, and burnt sienna colors stay true to the brand predilection for neutral palettes. Khaki was taken to a new level with contrasting neutral-colored collars and pleated shirts complimented with spacious, slightly over-sized trousers.

Photo courtesy by Ernest Green

When a new team becomes creative directors of a well-known brand it’s difficult to inject new personality while maintaining the signature look of that brand. Cox and Silver have managed to do both, proving many naysayers wrong. From re-invented classics to an updated neutral palette even to this season’s baseball bowler hats, Cox and Silver pushed the proverbial fashion envelop and got it right!!

–Cory Orlando

Daisy Fuentes for Kohls Spring/Summer 2013

Images courtesy of Getty Images

While a significant amount fashionistas and fashion pundits at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week saw ready-to-wear collections that the average consumer would have to save up several weeks salary to purchase a few items, there was one budget friendly collection especially made for the everyday woman who want to be fashionable but doesn’t have deep pockets to shop and stay fashionable. Pop culture icon Daisy Fuentes teamed up with department store Kohl’s to present her latest venture, an affordable chic clothing line that won’t break the bank. The collection was inspired by a summer holiday in the South of Spain on the coast of Andalusia just miles away from Morocco where Fuentes connected with her Gypsy muse.

From this inspiration, a collection contrasting contemporary and classics prints and motifs came together to create exotic pattern work and folk-inspired embroideries filled with rich detail. The clothes were seductive but sophisticated appealing to Kohl’s wide array of shoppers that are looking for fashion on a budget. The allure of Fuentes spring/summer 2013 collection consisted of European charm mixed with an Old World romance that would be sure to spice up any summer wardrobe or vacation.

—Dana E. Givens

Czar by Cesar Galindo Spring/Summer 2013

In his first collection at Lincoln Center for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Cesar Galindo wanted to make an impact. And he did just that. Color was the name of the game for Houston native Cesar Galindo; and lots of color in a variety of shades and dimensions. But it wasn’t just color for the sake of color. Galindo stayed on trend by employing bold neon colors paired with the continuing trend of metallic fabrications.

For spring/summer 2013, Galindo dressed women for every jointure of their day. From easy, flowing maxi dresses to colorful shift dresses to cute short pants ensembles to silk print halter dresses and kimono-sleeved caftans, Galindo, inspired by 3-D technology, created a very wearable, retail friendly collection. He even threw in a black cocktail number for good measure.

With color palettes ranging from turquoise to chartreuse, tangerine, azure and melon, Galindo also incorporated the continuing trends of tribal prints, spring brocades and diaphanous fabrics.

Czar by Cesar Galindo spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Getty Images

Overall, this spring/summer 2013 collection was a win-win for Galindo with very few misses. And though Cesar Galindo has been in the industry for some time now, he is proving that with talent, perseverance, and hard work, hope does not only spring eternal, it can also spring success.

—William S. Gooch

Erin Barr Spring/Summer 2013

Photos courtesy by Highsnobette

Using sensual cutouts and texture contrasts, Erin Barr is setting a new fashion standard for the working woman in this spring/summer collection.

Keeping the looks very feminine with a lot of structure, Erin Barr seductively taps into feminine strength while maintaining a subtle sensuality.  Using a color palette that includes a rich, vampy red, and the neutrals of white and black, Barr’s tailored silhouettes appropriately showcase her design aesthetic. This collection is successful because Barr demonstrates that a working woman’s sense of fashion does not have to take a second seat to looking sophisticated and professional in the office or in corporate settings.

Photos courtesy by Highsnobette

 

The sheer fabric with tough leather gives a very woman-in-charge vibe, while form-fitting dresses give a touch of elegance. Zippered embellished tops complimented the embroidered skirts with added details such as pleats and leather block-outs. While printed stripes gave classic silhouettes a new fashion-forward approach. In this collection Erin Barr successfully confirms that sometimes less is more, and that simplicity, sophistication and edge do not have to be polar opposites.

Photos courtesy by Highsnobette

When looking professional, women don’t want to lose sight of their femininity with garments that are dour and fussy. Erin Barr has showed in this collection that it is possible to be feminine, strong, and beautiful all at the same time.

– Cory Orlando

Marlon Gobel Spring/Summer 2013

Bringing shock and awe to menswear, Marlon Gobel showed a futuristic approach to the spring/summer collection entitled, The Stars. Inspired by Nicholas Humprey’s writings on “the biological advantage of being awestruck,” this collection is sure to catch your eye with a metallic gold and silver explosion. 

With a range of fitted suits, twinkling shirts, and several bomber jackets, the cosmic inspiration was out of this world, literally. Though many of the separates were classics, including raw denim jeans, corduroy trousers, and plaid shirts, Gobel styled the classic pieces in ways will cause consumers to at these classics in a new way.

Detailing of blinged-out space shuttle embroidery along with motocross taping gave homage to a Tron-like appearance. Although this celestial collection may be a bit over the top for some male consumers, Gobel gives that fashion-forward guy an opportunity to add a bold statement piece to any wardrobe. Many of the suits were business casual, making it easy to transition from day to evening.

The collection incorporated bold mid-century modern patterns and checkered prints when paired with neon orange and metallic silver gave the effect of toning down the eccentricities of this collection.  Separates are easy to dress up and dress down making it easy for the average consumer to add more color into his wardrobe.

Marlon Gobel closed his show with the one woman’s look in the collection, a thigh-grazing black, orange and gray skirt digitally printed with a fiery blast-off of a space shuttle. Closing with only one woman’s look, Gobel knew the closing look had to a showstopper. And it was a  blast off!!

– Cory Orlando

Stephen Burrows Spring/Summer 2013

Stephen Burrows spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Stephen Burrows usually shows the last day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. And his shows are always refreshing denouement to a hectic week full of creative expressions from a variety of perspectives.

Like his clothes, Burrows’ presentations are always relaxed and easy. After forty years in the fashion industry, Burrows season after season still has the ability to create clothes that are youthful and full of charm.  And it is clear to see with Burrows’s spring/summer 2013 collection that he still loves what he is doing and having loads of fun.

Images courtesy of Stephen Burrows

As always with Stephen Burrows, there is the love affair with jersey. With color palettes ranging from turquoise, coral and cherry red to psychedelic prints of crazy kaleidoscopes and miasmas of feline spots, Burrows joyful collection was on trend with its bold explosion of neon colors and simple silhouettes.

This collection is ideal for women that want to celebrate their femininity as expressed through a kaleidoscope of easy, colorful,  bold images that are sophisticated, but still effervescent and fashion forward.

—William S. Gooch

Norisol Ferrari Spring/Summer 2013

“If you’ve got it, flaunt it,” says Mama Rose in the iconic musical Gypsy. There was a lot of flaunting on the runway during Norisol Ferrari spring/summer 2013 runway show, and flaunting in a good way by seasoned models that still have it, and know just how to flaunt it.

Using models who have decades of experiences is nothing new. Michael Bastian continues to use supermodel Tyson Beckford. Naomi Campbell made a surprise catwalk strut in Zac Posen’s spring/summer 2013 show. And a couple of seasons ago Carmen Dell’ Orefice, Pat Cleveland, Roshumba, Carole Alt, Irina Pantaeva, Frederique Van der Wal, and Nikki Taylor  participated in Adrienne Vittadini’s  presentation at Lincoln Center.

Norisol Ferrari continued the mtrend this season of mixing in well-seasoned models with fresher faces. Though the younger models did a commendable job, Carmen Dell’Orefice, Alva Chinn, Carole Alt, and Karen Bjornson stole the show.

But this collection was about more than iconic supermodels. In this outing, Ferrari conjured up the curvaceous silhouettes of silver screen sirens Rita Hayworth, Marilyn Monroe, and Rita Moreno.  Ferrari’s choice of looks for this collection ranged from palazzo pants to tight pencil skirts to fitted bodices that flared out to flowing skirts with embroidered embellishments.

Norisol Ferrari spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Getty Images

Though Ferrari attempted to capture old Hollywood glamour in this collection, Ferrari managed most times to keep her point of view fresh and current. However, there were a few garments that bordered on kitsch. And unlike other collections this season, Ferrari chose to stay with a neutral palette.

Still, it was a joy to see Carmen Dell’Orefice, Alva Chinn, Karen Bjornson and Carole Alt working the runway, bringing back memories of when runway presentations evoked mood, charm and sometimes frothy frivolity.

—William S. Gooch

Kara Laricks Spring/Summer 2013

Fresh off of her Fashion Star win, Kara Laricks presented a small spring/summer collection of 15 garments. “I am always drawn to the 1920s because of that androgynous looks that comes from that era.  I was also drawn to matchbox covers from late 1920s Japan because they had incredible pops of color. So I fused those two elements together for this collection,” detailed Kara Laricks.

Laricks’ predilection for androgynous clothing is a definite carryover from her tenure on Fashion Star where she established her signature look of transforming men’s tuxedoes into casual dress attire for women and making many variations on men’s neckties. This collection was an extension of what we saw on Fashion Star.

Standout looks were Laricks’ tux tail pant in black tropical weight gabardine, cummerbund cocktail dress in raw-edged heirloom organza silk charmeuse, and collared gown in raw-edged ivory organza with ivory silk charmeuse slip. “The matchboxes that inspired me came in emperor red, ivory white, and a very rich black. These colors were perfect for this collection … As far as fabrications, I got a little fancy with this collection and chose silk charmeuse, organza, and heirloom cotton sateen” informed Laricks.

This was a sensible and retail friendly collection for Laricks in her first outing since Fashion Star. Instead of trying to wow editors and buyers with a collection that was out of her comfort zone, Kara Latricks stayed with what worked for her on the show and what will work with consumers.

Kara Laricks spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of styleite.com

Creativity marries business smarts. Hmm, if only more emerging designers could be so smart!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Joseph Abboud Spring/Summer 2013

“It’s about looking back to the old glamour of American style and modernizing it; taking inspiration from yesterday’s icons but bringing something completely new. I believe that design is a mode of expressing one’s individuality, not suppressing it … and this collection leaves room for tomorrow’s icons to be made,” explains Joseph Abboud creative director Bernardo Rojo.

Bernardo Rojo for spring/summer 2013 gives a nod to iconic American male iconic rebels James Dean, Marlon Brando, and Richard Gere as seen through American cinematic cult classics like “The Wild Ones,” “American Gigolo,” and “Rebel Without a Cause.” Rojo takes these cult classic silhouettes and updates them for the modern American man.

While these cult rebels would have thought twice about experimenting with the bold, neon colors in this collection, for today’s man of style, bold color is not only an expression of his individual taste but a reflection of a new relaxed masculinity. Though there are lots of American sportswear staples in this collection, Rojo breathes new life into these classics, keeping the collection fresh and fashion forward by adding innovative detailing, modern construction and introducing pops of glossy color.

Standouts in this collection were the re-invented classic moto jackets in neoprene and slightly unconstructed suit jackets in linen and cotton. Another standout was Rojo’s pairing of vibrant yellow, red and blues hues with American classic standards.

Joseph Abboud spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of vogue.com

Though Rojo is pushing the brand in a more stylish, fashion-forward direction, the American male palette that is now developing a stronger penchant for color and innovative construction is more closely aligned with the brand’s evolving point of view.

—William S. Gooch

 

Ruffian Spring/Summer 2013

Photo courtesy by Go Runway

If Marie Antoinette grew up in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, how would she dress? Well, now we may have an idea thanks to Ruffian’s spring/summer 2013 collection.

The juxtaposition of Chuck Taylors with toile prints, ruffles, and corsets gives homage to a classic set of silhouettes. With a color palette ranging from blue to yellow toile, Ruffian takes American utilitarian shapes and creates a conversation that spans a wide demographic. Separates that utilize streetwear-inspired concepts will be attractive to the brand’s classy, yet hipster audience.

Photo courtesy by Go Runway

Oxford shirts, motorcycle pants, and sculpted shift tops incorporate flawless craftsmanship and design. Lace trim shorts are just the start of many intricate details that Ruffian has utilized in this spring/summer collection. Whether it’s a night out on the town or a basic coffee date, Ruffian keeps it simple with  design complexities that though complicated appear simple; giving that special detail that variety of women will want in their wardrobes come spring.

With fashion-forward corsets and cropped jackets, Ruffian has extended it brand to embrace silhouettes that go beyond the simple, but classic designs the brand had become known for. This new point of view closes the demographic gap. With this new perspective, even Marie Antoinette would be the hippest person in town.

– Cory Orlando

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