With Parke and Ronen there is always lots of male eye candy. And their spring 2014 was no exception. But, at closer examination this collection was much more than a series of glistening muscles and six and twelve packs.
This summer idyll collection takes the Parke and Ronen man from leisure spring/summer brunches and casual workday Fridays to exotic locations along the Aegean Sea. From color palettes that played on variations of blue and gold to bold splashes of red and metallic gold, and neutrals of black, nudes and beiges, Park and Ronen demonstrated that their customer embraces bold color on masculine silhouettes that showoff a well-chiseled physique.
There was a definite 80s influence to this collection evidenced in shorts that were mid-thigh, some identifiably shorty shorts. The design duo also borrowed highly from the late 70s and early 80s with short-sleeved, two-toned Oxford shirts that revealed light shades when rolled at the armpits, as well as 80s-influenced windbreaker jackets.
The larger question for this spring 2014 collection is if it will appeal to a male demographic over 30. My bet is YES. Remember, 40 is the new 27. And though the Parke and Ronen’s garments are quite smug this season, there are several looks in the collection that, though form-fitting, are casual and comfortable enough to appeal to men over 35.
Images courtesy of Ernest Green
Hey, a lot of men reminisce about the 80s. And if you body still looks good why not show it off in Parke and Ronen ensemble!!
—William S. Gooch
Elie Tahari celebrated the label’s 40th anniversary by looking to the future while making a few clever nods to the label’s illustrious past.
Modernism, inspired by 1950s Brasilia architecture by Oscar Niemeyer, was a key theme for this dazzling birthday party. That meant lots of white on white, with dollops of solid black and a few splashes of brilliant color such as peony pink.
One thing that makes New York Fashion Week so interesting is that one sees collections from a range of designers representing different approaches to what a collection should be.
After all, Minkoff has earned notice as a designer for the hip and happening set, especially the rocker set and the regular folks who love and follow them. It’s no accident that the packed crowd attending the Minkoff show was treated to live music by one of the hippest singers around—Janelle Monae. Minkoff may not have counted on the fact that the performance of Monae and her band nearly eclipsed the fashions coming down the runway.
But Minkoff’s creations were, for the most part, charming enough.
OK, it is Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 collections so it is expected that you will have floral inspirations in several collections. And true to form designers from Sally LaPointe to Monique Lhuillier to Tadashi Shoji to Zang Toi infused their collections with floral embellishments. Add Christian Siriano to the lists.
Interestingly, Siriano placed his floral-inspired garments at the end of his runway presentation. But this placement makes sense when considering that Siriano was inspired by a recent trip to the Isla Mujures, the “Island of Women,” off of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.
Siriano in this collection conjured up images of the tropical flora, fragrances, colors, architectural influences, textiles, and in particular the abundance of dahlias on the island. Grass and palm-lined hut influences are expressed in Siriano’s use of raffia textiles. Intricate stonework and color-blocked streets are projected in Siriano’s shapes and construction. Isla Mujures’ tropical color palettes pop up in Siriano’s use of sand and verdant tones, fuchsia, and floral brocades.
Christian Siriano stays on trend with cropped bandeau tops, exposed midriffs, and illusions, and the construction illusions of flowing trains by making the back of the garment significantly longer than the front. Siriano demonstrates in this collection that he has mastered that delicate balance between fashion-forward sensibility and elegant sophistication. A skill that often takes years to acquire.
Androgyny was the order of the day for Duckie Brown’s spring 2014 collection. Yes androgyny, but Duckie Brown’s concept of androgyny. Leikeli47’s rap “Talk like a boy, dress like a girl” forwarded Brown’s fashion-forward genderbending point of view that was heavy on a neutral palette but somewhat shy on consumer viability.
In this outing, creative directors Steven Cox and Daniel Silver chose to stay with a neutral palette and married this rather mundane color palette with looks that stretched the limits of androgyny for the male consumer. There was some genius in this point of view in that though the looks definitely expanded the definition of masculine silhouettes, there were masculine elements to most combinations.
Be ready to be swept off your feet and onto an enchanting ride with a romantic collection inspired by the beauty of the Sahara Desert. Son Jung Wan took her customer on a trip to a North African exotic desert oasis during her spring 2014 runway show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. This luxuriously detailed collection from the South Korean designer included a vibrant color palette of chalky white and blush tones blended with brilliant desert hues like burnt orange against asymmetrical cuts for the elegant Arabian-inspired collection. Feminine silhouettes and metallic detailing can be seen throughout the assortment of chic designs all looks that are both sexy and luxurious.
“…I was inspired by Morocco and the romantic, picturesque, sun-drenched Sahara Desert. It is such a mysterious place where you can wander, get lost and find peace and beauty,” says Wan. Son Jung Wan’s breathtaking inspiration is the perfect fashion translation for a beautiful starry night in the desert.
For spring/summer 2014 Monique Lhuillier looked to a floral motif and the delicate balance between layering and textures seen through the rich color prism of coral, fuchsia, poppy red, persimmon, soft rose gold, nude and cream. Using a floral theme is not new to Lhuillier. For spring 2011 Lhuillier was inspired by florals found in the Garden of Eden expressed in a stunning collection that juxtaposed an inchoate sensuality against a resplendent glamour.
Unlike spring 2011, this collection was a bit more commercial and expanded Lhuillier’s consumer base beyond red-carpet gowns and that woman who wants to make a dramatic statement. Though the silhouettes were more simple and demure in this outing, Lhuillier did incorporate flowing trains, some innovative lace illusion embellishments and very modern bandeau tops married with voluminous ball skirts.
Lhuillier has proven for several seasons now that she is more than just a red-carpet eveningwear designer. Every season she highlights restrained but elegant daywear in her collections. Still, audiences may yearn for Lhuillier’s head-turning gowns for spring 2014.
And though this collection was an interesting departure for Lhuillier, at times the collection didn’t go beyond pretty. If there was one next in this collection it was Lhuillier ingenious combination of sexy bandeau tops paired with high waisted voluminous ball skirts that did not reveal the belly button. This look is Lhuillier’s new interpretation of traditional evening that will attract a more youthful consumer.
Sunny, joyous, playful frivolity with unbelievable splashes of bold color describes Desigual. Since 1984 Desigual has been the town crier for clothes that reflect a youthful, fun, positive attitude that is expressed each season in affordable bold, innovative garments for the consumer who is not afraid to express their individuality and love of life. Infuse Desigual’s signature point of view with a kaleidoscope of color, pop art, graffiti-inspired digital prints and you have their spring 2014 collection.
In this outing, Desigual looked to the Mediterranean and La Dolce Vita found in the idylls of Saint Tropez, Ibiza, the French Riviera, and all other Adriatic Sea hot spots. Life is to be experienced with caution thrown to the wind, which came across strongly in Desigual’s spring 2014 collection. Only Betsey Johnson produces that kind of party on the runway, and though most industry professionals attend MBFW for the clothes, Desigual’s carnivale-like presentation is a pleasant departure from the sometimes formal, but necessary promenades of well-known brands.
Like many collections this season, Desigual started out with black and white neutrals. But after the twelfth look, Desigual pulled out of all the stops in this 40-plus collection with a mélange of color, vibration and energy that rivals only Betsey Johnson. Though there were some great coats and colorful jumpsuits in this collection, Desigual’s separates were the true standouts in that a variety of women of different physiques and ages can implement their spring/summer wardrobes with a Desigual top, skirt, short or slack.
For the last couple of years, the Raleigh, North Carolina–based label Raleigh Workshop has been in transformation mode. The label’s latest collection—spring/summer 2014—showed that Raleigh, as the label is commonly referred to these days, has succeeded with its makeover in splendid fashion.
The spring/summer 2014 collection showed an easy way with design and proportion. Raleigh Denim’s fondness for playing with classic pieces could be seen this season in an ethereal looking print that was actually of pickled cherry blossoms, according to the show notes. The print turned up on several pieces including a silk tee shirt, a silk twill column dress, and a chic trench coat in organza and burlap. Other winning looks included a men’s stone-colored canvas jean jacket with intriguing vertical tucks, white ankle-peg pants for women, and an off-white elegant double weave trench coat for women.
Familiar cities come to mind when thinking about fashion hubs of the world—New York, Milan, Paris, London— however, one designer opted to shy away from the blaring lights of the enchanting international metropolises and got her motivation from a particular city that has been in the news for its economic turmoil. Inspired by the history of urban Detroit’s crumbling economic state and survivalist mentality, designer Ann Yee presents her spring 2014 collection—Resurgence which reveals structured, metallic elements of the auto industry that Detroit is historically known for.
