Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week spring 2014 is over, as well as fashion weeks in London, Milan, and Paris, memories still linger. We all love the way the collections look on the runway, and the way each model brings that extra something that makes us look at silhouettes, construction, fabrications and the designer’s point of view in new ways. Still, it is not all sparkle and shine.
In Fashion Reverie’s unique way of presenting texture, nuance and a broader spectrum of perspectives and with the assistance of our photo editor, Ernest Green, we demonstrate that Fashion Week is a collaborative effort. Putting a runway show together is a lot of hard work and without the collaborative efforts of makeup artists, dressers, the ground crew, PR firms, the technical crew, and the models and designers themselves, the stunning presentations that we hold near and dear to our hearts would not happen.
Raleigh Denim Spring 2014 Backstage
Though the brand has extended beyond denim, their brand of denim has never looked so good.
Nicholas K Spring 2014 Backstage
Nicholas K is the first show of MBFW and the models are just beginning a week of hair pulled, twisted and primed into all kinds of interesting configurations. Hang on kids, its going to be a lot of hair pulling!!
Nicholas K Spring 2014 Backstage
Kenneth Cole Spring 2014 Backstage
Diversity rules with Kenneth Cole.
Steve Alan Spring 2014 Backstage
With Kenneth Cole it all about the face. And guys will make passes at this model who wears glasses!!
Malan Breton Spring 2014 Backstage
OK, I’ve got a secret. These images are not from MBFW, but taken three weeks later at the Taiwan Museum’s cultural celebration. But hey, Malan Breton’s collection is still slammin!!
—Staff
My fellow fashionistas will appreciate how my heart skipped a beat when I first walked through the doors, past security, and entered into the Tents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW). I had my cute dress, fierce heels, and sunglasses on, hoping that I looked the part. Though I have penned articles for Fashion Reverie in the past, this was officially my first Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week as a fashion commentator, so I was a bundle of jittery nerves.
For a few shows, I was acting as a fashion commentator and had backstage access to designers. However, for one show, I was actually acting as an assistant to one of Fashion Reverie’s photographer. During MBFW, the photographers wait in a separate area before their show with equipment, and even stepstools in hand. When they are allowed inside, there is a pretty serious rush with each photographer jockeying to find riser space, in order to allow for the best sightlines. It was interesting standing on that side of the rope, with another group of artists in their own right. I got nervous because at one point, my credentials were in my bag and I was told that I needed to wear them around my neck at all times. IDs were checked multiple times, because it is very serious business. After my photographer’s assistant stint was complete, I was actually able to sit with Editor-in-Chief William Gooch and enjoy the show from the floor.
Only a few designers can mix metallics, floral embellishments, cutouts, feathers, chain mail bodices, graphics and intricate beading in a collection and produce fashion art. For spring 2014 Falguni and Shane Peacock achieved just that, works of fashion art.
Falguni and Shane Peacock’s innovative miasma was as schizophrenic as ever, yet within this assemblage of seemingly frenzied disorder there was lots of craftsmanship and a cohesive point of view. One could suggest that order blossomed out of the disorder. Not every garment was a hit, but overall this collection demonstrated Falguni and Shane Peacock’s range but establishes the brand as a one of the leaders of edgy clothes whose aesthetic could extend beyond fashion risk-takers and celebrities.
Standouts in this collection was the graphic print sleeveless mini with sheer overlay and convertible zip hem paired with golden metal and neoprene leg harnesses, red and gunmetal embellished chain metal mini dress featuring feathers and beading, long-sleeve, floor-length feathered gown with metallic detail bodice, and lastly the bodycon dress with asymmetrical hem, metallic gold detail and black mesh. Falguni and Shane Peacock’s metal leg harnesses were special touch that elevated this already spectacular to the next level.
This is what the cool kids will be wearing next spring and summer. The Marc by Marc Jacobs is always a barometer for a certain brand of cool—you know, the kids who used to be the ones at the popular kids table in school but have grown up enough to be able to drink legally. These clothes are for them, and the rest of the class who kind of always wanted to be them. And being one of the cool kids is a good thing when you have clothes like this.
You want me to dress my age and wear a suit? Well how about if I wear a cotton candy pink satin one to go clubbing in? And yes, there are his and hers versions of said cotton candy pink satin suit. Don’t like that one? Well how about a satin jumpsuit with a big tie that’s part of the bodice design. Is that formal enough for you?
The satin also found its way into other designs on tops, jackets and trousers sometimes in designs reminiscent of iconic looks like a jockey’s silks, a cheerleader dress and a classic Varsity jacket festooned with MJ emblems of course.
The dapper gentlemen behind the ultra-hip, well-tailored men’s line, BeSpoken returned for another season at New York Fashion Week with a spring collection that spoke to the symbiosis between prepster charm and the dapper British gentleman. Designers Liam and Sam Fayed took inspiration from photographer Ray Petri’s Buffalo Boy 1980s influenced looks for a collection of dashing garments with hint of stylish, London-schoolboy charm. Some of these ensembles are perfect for a night out on the town.
Zang Toi has always been known for his craftsmanship and theatrical catwalk that appeals to a client base consisting of international jetsetters, well-heeled fashion mavens and red-carpet regulars. For his spring 2014 collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the Malaysian-born designer took the fashion elite to a night at the ballet with dazzling looks inspired by a whimsical love story played out through dance. “I wanted to take the very elegant line, and very graceful line of ballet to translate into the collection,” says Toi about his inspiration from the dance artform.
The stylish pieces resembled a beautiful, dark, twisted fantasy that Zang Toi married with ballet-inspired gowns with tulle peeking out, resembling a ballerina’s tutu. The color palette consisted of navy, baby blue, soft pink, and midnight black for a mysterious yet trendy tone for his affluent patrons. Detailed, handcrafted floral embroidery and ribbon sequin accents was a reoccurring trend juxtaposed against silk and cashmere for a truly opulent fashion statement.
Who would’ve imagined that rockabilly combined with ‘Rebel Without Case’ 50s fashion and a Punk aesthetic from the late 70s could produce a collection that is fun, yet fashion forward? Hache thought about it, executed it, and positive notices are in!!
Creative director Manuela Arcari combined all these fashion points of view and created a collection that though it references particular eras is still fresh, modern and fashionably viable. Arcari followed the popular trend of layering this season. This layering trend could have been disastrous for this collection; imagine 70s Punk with 50s Rockabilly. However, Arcari understood that these influences were just reference points and allowed her strong modern perspective on her customer’s needs and wants produce edgy garments that are now with a hint of next.
Distressed studded leather jackets, whether cropped or three quarter paired with cropped tops, exposed midriffs and 50s frock dresses produced a modern distillation on texture, length and fabrics that are trans-seasonal. And Arcari’s fashion-conscious customer will appreciate the combination of baggy, long shorts that hang low mixed with studded, thin micro belts and 50s–styled modest tops.
For spring 2014 Dominic Louis looked to texture and shape expressed through the prism of beautiful symmetry that is restrained at times and erratic on occasion. Since 2013 Dominic Louis has set a standard for himself at being a master in construction and for having acumen at working in asymmetrical shapes and interesting combinations of fabrics.
Like many designers this season, Louis stayed with a mostly neutral palette with the exception of some beautiful custom prints in collaboration with street artist WHISBE. These collaboration combined WHISBE’s street art mentality with Louis’ penchant for a whimsical high-fashion aesthetic, resulting an interesting synthesis of hard ands soft.
Standouts in this collection was Louis’ structured tops with full skirts that spoke to a 50s aesthetic, digital-print crop top with navy shorts layered over with diaphanous organza sarong skirt, and asymmetrical white wrap dress with plunging neckline. Though some of the more constructed pieces were interesting stretch for Louis, some of the potential beauty of these garments was lost in the fit and style.
Surf’s up but the Peter Som spring 2014 collection proved that riding the waves doesn’t mean you have to leave your chicness in the sand. Som’s collection was all about, as his show notes put it, “Surf style below 14th Street.” And yes, the athletic beach babe has been a recurring theme for the fashion crowd for a couple of seasons now making neoprene the hot new go-to fabric on the catwalk.
But in Som’s hands that vibe never grew stale thanks to some clever fabric combinations and his trademark eye for knowing how much is enough. So yes there were neoprene separates, all tailored to perfect sleekness. There was also a fun wave print in royal, black and white that hit just the right amount of fun without becoming kitschy thanks to its use on the right pieces—a tuxedo coat and in one case a neoprene and lacquered eyelet sweatshirt. The lacquered eyelet also played a central role throughout the collection.
Can technologically forward fashion and pretty co-exist? The answer is a resounding “yes” in the hands and creative eye of designer Prabal Gurung and the ICB line for Onward Kashiyama, for which Gurung serves as creative director.
For spring/summer 2014, Gurung produced a collection that is the perfect marriage of street and ladylike chic. The opening looks, all white, were a small parade of minimalist staples—clean-lined crop tops, pegged trousers, oversized jackets and the cocoon shaped dress. The white sneakers worn by some of the models (a popular footwear choice for several designers, we might add), emphasized the youthful athleticism of the collection overall. Oversize pieces dominated here, but Gurung knows how to give clothes shape, a key to avoiding clothes that look sloppy or careless.
