Front Row — Page 67

Anne Barge Bridal Spring 2015

April 14, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Anne Barge had developed a consistent following based on her penchant for creating gowns that speak to vintage, classic styles seen through the lens of what modern brides want to wear. Barge’s bridal spring 2015 continued that trajectory with a modern sensibility.

Barge’s vintage-inspired gowns could serve as bridal heirloom pieces while still satisfying the tastes of the modern consumer. This collection, while classic managed to include a color palette that was modern and centered on watercolor pastels with fabrications of silk taffeta, silk organza, duchess satin, lace, mikados, and tulle.

What works best in this collection is that Barge ingeniously has found within her concentration on classic silhouettes and styles to create wedding gowns for a variety of age demographics and tastes. If a bride wants a gown that reflects Old Hollywood glamour, this spring 2015 collection had gowns that will fit that bill. If a bride desires a garment that is romantically timeless, but not dated, Barge provides that as well. In other words, there is something in this collection for a lot of different bridal consumers.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Though this spring 2015 collection evoked a soft, romantic approach to bridal wear, Barge continued to expand her oeuvre to include pieces that while still class still possessed an appeal that was youthful and fashion forward. And that is and accomplishment in and of itself.

—William S. Gooch

Justina McCaffrey Bridal Spring 2015

April 14, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Canadian haute couture designer Justina McCaffrey, believes that a bride is like a ballerina, and her wedding gown should reflect her sense of grace, poise, strength and femininity. Her spring 2015 collection embodied that belief with sleek, stunning creations, invoking emotions associated with classical ballet and opera.

Working mainly in shades of white, with movement as a major motivation of design, McCaffrey worked with fluid materials—satins, charmeuse, tissue taffeta, French lace and tulle. Fitted bodices, with deep cut backs, flowed into dramatically draped hemlines. “I like the front flat—the back has enormous appeal,” McCaffrey said. “You’ve got to play to the second balcony.”

The ten gowns presented were masterfully crafted with the modern woman in mind. “An angular dress shows who’s boss—it says I’m an intelligent woman. Many women with professional careers don’t want to have ruffles galore.”

Standout pieces included a Duchess satin gown with tissue taffeta accented with a wide gray ribbon waist embellishment. A French lace gown with a liquid sequin underlay was sexy but classy and perfect for a summer wedding. McCaffrey, who in the past designed a Justina branded lingerie collection line for Marshall Fields, loves the lingerie feel for modern brides, but not too fitted or revealing” explains McCaffrey “You don’t want the bride to feel too undressed with nipples fully showing.”

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

McCaffrey highlights the deep cut backs of her gowns with the bling of Swarovski crystals. “The crystals create more of a ‘rocker vibe’— there’s just something modern about it. The dress is simple so you may only need one element of interest,” she explained. “It’s like a surprise at the very end.”

The showstopper was the Duchess draped satin bodice gown that swirled out into a voluminous cloud of tulle — perfect for the inner ballerina of any bride.

—Francesca Simon

Monique Lhuillier Bridal Spring 2015

April 14, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Monique Lhuillier welcomed us into what she called her “ethereal daydream” for her spring 2015 bridal collection.

More than most collection showings, Lhuillier’s setting for her collection showing was a telling window into the designer’s inspiration. According to show notes distributed before the show, the grey set upon which the models settled themselves in various poses after processing around the room was inspired by John Singer Sargent portraiture. (Sargent was especially known for his depictions of the luxe life during the Edwardian era and even now, the idea of formal portraiture speaks to a certain level of sophistication and luxury even now.)

Lhuillier’s collection cleverly reflected not only that luxe sensibility, but aspects of Edwardian era fashion, particularly in the softer shapes, lighter weight constructions and profusion of lace—all three of which have been increasingly popular trends in bridal fashion, especially since the 2011 wedding of the Duchess of Cambridge (a.k.a. Kate Middleton).

Make no mistake; despite the gentle nods to the past, particularly in Lhuillier’s use of tastefully embroidered Chantilly lace, one of the designer’s chief materials along with tulle and silk satin organza, there were plenty of contemporary touches.

In one ivory long sleeved gown, illusion (another growing trend in bridal) was draped softly over a floral lattice embellished sheath with a daring slit up the front. In another very “now” look, Lhuillier created a lingerie-inspired gown with an alencon lace corset and a full tulle tiered skirt. Other details utilized throughout the collection included cascading hemlines, sleeves, beaded shrugs and overskirts—a nod perhaps to brides seeking different looks for their ceremony and reception.

Images courtesy of popsugar.com

Nowhere was the contemporary edge more evident than in Lhuillier’s use of color. Shades of white and off-white have become standard in bridal and Lhuillier’s 2015 collection showed everything from white and ivory to blush and grey. But Lhuillier included a smattering of bold (for bridal) tones as well—a cornflower blue she called hydrangea and a gentle pistachio green shown in a stunning strapless embroidered A-line gown with a matching embroidered illusion coverlet.

Clearly in the Lhuillier bridal universe there is a gentle harmony to be found between the past and the present.

—Karyn D. Collins

Oleg Cassini Bridal Spring 2015

April 14, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

The Oleg Cassini Bridal Spring 2015 collection demonstrated that the traditional American bride is still a force to be reckoned with. And Oleg Cassini helped establish the traditional look of the American bride.

As the executive couturier for First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy and known as her “secretary of style,” Oleg Cassini put himself on the American fashion map, so to speak, as a designer of timeless, simplistic taste epitomized through his penchant for strapless evening gowns, and sheath dresses made from luxurious fabrics that employed couture design techniques.

Though Cassini died in 2006, we still see his design philosophy in his spring 2015 bridal collection. In this collection there were lots of lace and strapless gowns in simple silhouettes with a color palette from the blush, champagne and ecru color palette.

This collection, though reminiscent of the late 1950s and 60s, a time when Cassini reigned supreme, evoked timeless Old Hollywood glamour is still in step with what the modern bride who is looking for classic elegance might wear on her very special day. This collection featured voluminous ball gown, A-line, sheath, and fit-to-flare silhouettes with sweetheart necklines.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Though modern brides rarely pass on their wedding gowns to their daughters any more, Cassini’s timeless creations are heirloom gowns that could easily be passed on to future generations. And for that bride looking for timeless elegance, this collection is a testimony to the fact that sophisticated elegance never goes out of style.

—William S. Gooch

Christos Bridal Spring 2015 and Kenneth Pool Bridal Spring 2015

April 14, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Christos Spring 2015

In presenting two of her three bridal lines back to back on April 12 during New York International Bridal Week, bridal designer Amsale Aberra made a statement about two seemingly opposite personas of modern brides.

The Christos line, which Aberra acquired in 2005, has become synonymous with romance. The Kenneth Pool line, which Aberra created and launched in 2003, has long been known for drama. (Her main eponymous line, launched in 1985, is being reviewed separately.) But the directions Aberra took the Christos and Kenneth Pool lines for spring 2015 speak volumes about today’s brides.

For spring 2015, the Christos line was the essence of sweet and fresh vitality. Aberra’s show notes described the look as “an updated take on modern vintage.” What that means when it comes to bridal, at least in the Christos line, there is a very soft, light and airy freshness.

Christos Spring 2015

There is no doubt that the Christos bride is sweet but never cloying or saccharine or frothy. The elegance and attention to detail that is a hallmark of all of the Amsale collections is ever present. Here, the chief detail is a profusion of tiny floral appliques accented with crystals as with a scattering of little beaded flowers that enlivened a fit-to-flare gown with an illusion neckline and cap sleeves. A more extravagant display of the flowers turned a blush beaded strapless fit-to-flare gown into a shimmering showstopper with layers of tulle and lace, especially point d’ esprit, adding to the romantic vision of the Christos bride.

By contrast, the Kenneth Pool bride, always dramatic, reflects the modern bride who has the confidence to show off her curves. Plunging fronts and backs cut down-to-there were just part of the stylistic repertoire employed for this sexy bride.

Kenneth Pool Spring 2015

Here, Aberra’s skill for detail could be seen in her breathtaking use of sheer illusion. The finely tailored sheer material allowed Aberra to create the effect of lace appliques climbing up a shoulder or snaking down the middle of an otherwise seemingly bare back.

Some of the standouts among the 10 gowns shown from the Pool line included a corded lace fit-to-flare gown with a deep V front and sheer back heightened by a single row of buttons inviting the eye down to the tailbone. Another va-va-voom gown was a dropped waist tulle ball gown with corded lace applique across the back.

Kenneth Pool Spring 2015. Images courtesy of Ernest Green

And yet, for all of the sex appeal of the Pool gowns, they never devolved into the realm of tacky. The taste quotient is a crucial must-have for this bride and Aberra, thankfully knows just how to find the right balance. These are gowns that are alluring but still classy.

—Karyn D. Collins

Isabelle Armstrong Bridal Spring 2015

April 12, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2015 Isabelle Armstrong showed a beautiful collection that was modern, fresh and on trend. Drawing inspiration from the Spanish basilica, Sagrada Familia, her gowns had lots of architectural details and long, clean lines.

Showcasing traditional whites and crèmes, Armstrong expanded her color palette for spring 2015 by incorporating blush, pink and nectar. This expanded color palette beyond traditional white is a trend that popped up several spring 2015 bridal collections through New York International Bridal Week.

Images courtesy of blog.theknot.com

This collection also included gowns in sumptuous materials such as French lace, silk chiffon, organza and tulle. Standout pieces include a strapless, blush gown with a full skirt and a silk shift cocktail dress with a detachable ostrich feather skirt (which would both look fab on the red carpet of award season) With these gorgeous, strapless, body-conscious creations in trumpet and mermaid silhouettes making every woman that wears one feel like a goddess on her special day and making Isabelle Armstrong a bridal sensation!

—Renessta Olds

Rivini by Rita Vinieris Bridal Spring 2015

April 12, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For inspiration for her Rivini by Rita Vinierisbridal spring 2015 collection, Rita Vinieris looked to a world without selfies and smartphones and how we save memories without the use of new technology. “In this era of smartphones and selfies I have become obsessed with how we saved our precious memories without the use of a camera … This is how I came across photograms. A photogram is a photographic image made without of camera by placing objects directly onto a surface and then exposing the to light. The result is a negative shadow image that shows variations in tone. This collection combines that with today’s 3-D printing technology. I think the results is both modern and timeless,” details Rita Vinieris.

Always known for pushing the proverbial bridal envelope, Vinieris has established herself as a bridal and eveningwear designer that is always looking for new and innovative ways to expand her customer demographic and re-image the way we look at bridal and eveningwear garments. In this spring 2015 collection, Vinieris had done just that. Vinieris has taken the motif of 3-D printing technology and employed that motif in designs that have 3-D embroidery techniques and textural patterns.

Lace is not just lace in this collection. Lace is layered and used to simulate perspective and Vinieris’ motif of 3-D printing. Vinieris also effectively uses digital printing on organza, tulle, and leather to bring a 3-D effect of floral and crystal embellishments to her spring 2015 collection.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standouts in this collection are Vinieris’ silk tissue spiraling ball gown with 3-D floral crystal photogram embroidery on a multi-layered soft diaphanous skirt, a 3-D photogram plisse gown of organza, tulle and leather, and an embroidered photogram floral pattern bodice on silk faille.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Spring 2015

April 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2015 Theia creative director Don O’Neill was inspired by the ancient Irish legend of the Tuatha de Danaann. “I am from a little seaside village in Ireland and we have a legend of the ruin of an ancient church that lies beneath the waters of the bay of my seaside home. Ancient folklore believes that fairy folk would come up from that submerged church and come onshore in a moonlight procession. For this collection, I imagined by fairy goddesses coming to life and coming through that portal and how they would look today if they came on shore,” explains O’Neill.

In this outing O’Neill realized this fairy inspiration in shimmery silver and white gowns in a variety of silhouettes and fabrications. “The influences were both Celtic and ocean inspired. The final gown was to look wet as though having just emerged from the water and to represent the moonlight shimmery beams. Several other gowns were embroidered with rivulets of pearls and silvery beads running down the dress with dimensions of paillettes and petals held down by pearls encrusted over the dress to conjure up images of a sea goddess. There were also lots of Celtic spirals and scrolls in the overcoats. And of course the head pieces were very Celtic inspired,” details O’Neill

Every bridal season O’Neill attempts to push the proverbial bridal envelope toward designs that re-imagine what a wedding gown can be. And for spring 2015, O’Neill’s bride transcends traditional bridal fare by embracing a more fashion-forward themed approach to nuptial attire.

All this is evidenced in gowns that are attracting a wider bridal demographic to O’Neill’s creations. From those brides who want a more traditional gown with just a hint of innovative detailing to those young brides who are thinking out of the box and want that very special showstopper gown that conjures up images of incandescent elegance while still demonstrating the future direction of bridal design.

“I added a crop top paired with a lame ball skirt because that speaks to a younger consumer. A lot of brides are young and young brides often want to look sexy. So, this season I incorporated a crop top that shows only a sliver of belly, keeping the look appropriate but still sexy. You absolutely know she is in a bridal gown, but she is still young and cool.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were O’Neill’s micro cup sequin and glass beaded halter gown with silk organza beaded scroll overcoat, silver floral jacquard crop to with tulle over lame ball skirt, illusion lace gown with embroidered tulle overskirt with crystal belt, and mirror sequin, and glass beaded gown with scrolling sequin overcoat.

—William S. Gooch

Mira Zwillinger Bridal Spring 2015

April 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Mira Zwillinger’s debut collection for New York International Bridal Week harkened back to old Hollywood glamour. Hand picked fabrics from Paris and Milan and handmade, custom-created gowns conspired to make the Israel-based Zwillinger an interesting and much-needed addition to the New York bridal market. With gowns embroidered and appliquéd with crystals over sheer bodices, removable organza jackets and jeweled belts just add layer upon layer of femininity for the sophisticated bride.

Like many bridal designers this season, Zwillinger picked up on the trend of very sheer illusions around the neckline and back, as well as cropped tops matched with silk taffeta skirts. Zwillinger’s couture techniques married with her modern approach to bridal design sets her solidly in the company of fashion-forward designers who looking to expand their market beyond the standard bridal customer.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

Stand-out pieces include a one-shouldered, sleeveless sheer bodice dress with rose appliqués and a chiffon pleated skirt. Another stand-out look was the Lysha gown long sleeve with a deep V plunge that was both shirred and had sequined appliqués strategically placed all over it.

—Renessta Olds

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Backstage Fall 2014

February 27, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week fall 2014 is over, as well as fashion weeks in London, Milan, and Paris, memories still linger. We all love the way the collections look on the runway, and the way each model brings that extra something that makes us look at silhouettes, construction, fabrications and the designer’s point of view in new ways. Still, it is not all sparkle and shine.

In Fashion Reverie’s unique way of presenting texture, nuance and a broader spectrum of perspectives and with the assistance of Fashion Reverie’s photographer Ken Jones, we demonstrate that Fashion Week is a collaborative effort. Putting a runway show together is a lot of hard work and without the collaborative efforts of makeup/hair stylists, dressers, the ground crew, PR firms, the technical crew, and the models and designers themselves, the stunning presentations and runway shows that we hold near and dear to our hearts would not happen.

Sally LaPointe Fall 2014