Front Row — Page 65

Monique Lhuiller Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Florals for spring, an original thought, right? Not. And it has been done ad nauseam. Which is why the brilliant way Monique Lhuillier incorporated this overused inspiration in her spring 2015 collection proves that she is a genius in linear thought development as well as design and construction.

It is often said that fashion is now and next, leaning more toward now with a dose of aspirational next on the side. In this outing, Lhuillier started her collection the other way around, a lot of next with a dose of now thrown in for good measure. And it worked beautifully.

For spring 2015 Monique Lhuillier revisits florals but distilled through the lens of innovative textiles paired with embellishments that create texture and fantasy. For inspiration Lhuillier looked to the first few moments of sunrise when the sky is painted with luminous shades of pastels that she experienced while on a trip to Harbour Island in the Bahamas.

The color palette in this spring collection embraced soft hues of pink, coral, mint green, sky blue, pale yellow, lavender, and any hues that evoke an iridescent dream-like quality. Lhuillier combined these soft sunrise hues with modern elements of noir-coated mesh, laminated lace, iridescent metallic piping and liquid satin.

Though the silhouettes in this collection were not necessarily groundbreaking, Lhuilier ingeniously paired unique fabric combinations and innovative textile techniques in new and interesting ways. And, this is where Lhuillier excelled. As the proverb details “There is nothing new under the sun,” but with Lhuillier, this season, familiar silhouettes and structures look new again even though they were decades old!!

Unlike previous outings, there were lots of separates that could be used to update a spring/summer wardrobe. Surprisingly, there were few red-carpet gowns for spring 2015 with Lhuillier staying with the garden-party motif throughout much of the collection. With Lhuillier turning up the volume for her concept of next and now, overall, this collection may be her most successful artistically, as well as having the most market value.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

Standouts for spring 2015, and there were many, included Lhuillier’s noir multi-floral embroidered tulle shell, silk white 4-ply silk crepe bandeau top with petal silk scuba short with noir contrast waistband, petal-embroidered tulle sleeveless gown with peplum and tulle skirt overlay, and pink multi-violet printed silk twill gazar one-shoulder tufted ball gown.

—William S. Gooch

Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2015

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The big news at the celebration of Carmen Marc Valvo’s 25th anniversary was the forward-thinking vibe that permeated the festive occasion.

Valvo, over the years, has earned renown as a go-to designer for real women, particularly women with curves. His gowns and cocktail dresses don’t just frame shapely bodies, they celebrate them.

For his 25th anniversary celebration collection, Valvo sought to mix classics with a refreshing blast of the new. The classics came in the skillfully cut cocktail dresses and evening gowns that have made the designer such a favorite with a range of stars and famous spouses like Katie Couric, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Vanessa Williams, Sheri Shepherd, and Denzel Washington’s wife, Pauletta. But these were anything but nostalgic odes to the past, thanks to Valvo’s use of mesh insets that teased the eye.

An ivory double face cocktail dress was given a racy edge with black scuba mesh detail. Several maillots got the mesh inset treatment. Even otherwise sweet looking pieces in a black and white floral got the revved up mesh inset treatment. The results here were somewhat mixed. While some of the mesh inset work was indeed intriguing and alluring, some of it seemed a tad overdone—too much of a good thing.

But the biggest surprise wasn’t to be found in the gowns or cocktail dresses. Instead, Valvo turned heads by introducing menswear to his collection. These were ensembles for an evening out on the town—mostly combinations of elegant dress shirts with jeans and pants such as a white cotton shirt with—wait for it—mesh inset and indigo printed faille jeans. Some of the most winning looks here were series of organza shirts such as Valvo’s black organza tuxedo shirt and a mandarin orange silk organza shirt shown with white jeans. Here, the organza allowed just enough of a teasing glimpse of muscle and sinew, the perfect complement to the feminine curves on display for Valvo’s women.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

Valvo saved his best for last with eveningwear embroidered in silver. Some of the best here included a stunning silver floral venise embroidered organza chemise, an ivory silver beaded mini matinee cocktail dress and an ivory silver embroidered mini matinee strapless cocktail dress.

—Karyn D. Collins

Nicholas K Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Abandon the nomadic chic vibe? Nah. Nicholas K will never do that. Season after season the nomad chic/urban warrior projection and all of its variations are the core reference points for the brand.

The design duo of Christopher and Nicholas Kunz looked to North African female explores for inspiration for their spring 2015 collection. They focused mostly on Swiss explore Isabelle Eberhardt who at the turn-of-the-nineteenth century dressed as a man while exploring North Africa.

That said; the masculine/feminine paradigm is woven throughout the collection. But, then again, those mixes of hard and soft, masculine and feminine is always a core element for Nicholas K. However, unlike previous collections there were no male models. The brand had the female models fully embody the masculine and feminine principals, eliminating the need for the male presence.

Christopher and Nicholas K always employ lots of layering and draping in their collections. Still, unlike previous incarnations, this season those elements were done with more sophistication and panache. Where in previous outing the layering and draping sometimes hid the feminine silhouette, this season the layering and draping enhanced the curves and added to the mystery of the female form. And the design duo helped forward the trend of khaki chinos for spring 2015.

Though this collection employed colors that would normally be thought of for a fall/winter collection, the easy fit and relaxed mode of the garments—consistent design element for Nicholas K—kept the collection solidly in temperate climates.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

Standouts in the collection were the hooded, draped olive silk jumper, sheer white cargo pants with draped blouse and gold neckpiece, and black bomber jacket, grey draped top with grey rolled-up extended crouch pants.

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Spring 2015

September 5, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

The active guy in the city and his adaptation to that urban landscape inspired Perry Ellis’ spring/summer 2015 “Changes and Horizontals” collection. The visual design aspect incorporates the linear elements of grids and architecture and the intersections that a person passes every day on the street.

The fabrication of this collection is a bit more technical. As described by brand creative director Michael Maccari, the design team focused on the garments inside and out, making things lighter, more functional, and more seasonally appropriate. They began with a pure base and built upon that, using color, grids, lines, shapes within shapes, and reflective fabrics that are commonly found within the cityscape.

The silhouettes stand firmly where some menswear trends are projecting to: less skinny, more full-bodied, shorts to the knee, pants to the ankle, less Euro, more American sportswear. The selected color scheme seems to effortlessly camouflage itself in the urban palette. The colors are trans-seasonal, done in spring fabrications; deep reds and blues, a variance of shades of khaki and a strong black and white presence. The geometric and natural prints marry especially well into the city theme, reminding us that intricate design, whether made my man or Mother Nature, is always around us.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

The heritage and future of the brand are also important elements in this collection. Says Maccari, “[we’re] always looking back to what Perry would have done; keeping one foot in the past keeps the brands DNA alive and then moving that forward. So the idea that having dress fabrics in casual silhouettes or more active silhouettes, there’s always that one foot in, one foot out kind of idea; one foot here, one foot in the future. It’s just playing with shapes and fabrics and finding that balance; that’s what keeps it moving forward and keeps it a little bit practical as well. There’s a very strong history in it, but there’s also the approach that it doesn’t have to be taken too seriously. There’s a fun element to it, and there’s a realness to it.”

—Carl Ayers

David Hart Spring 2015

September 5, 2014 by admin 3 Comments

David Hart looked to Palm Springs, natural landscapes and the modernist architecture of Alexander Neutra, Frey Wexler, and Lautner for inspiration for his spring 2015 collection. Though Hart has only had his namesake collection a few seasons, his penchant for classic American sportswear combined with sartorial craftsmanship is key to his aesthetic. And that point of view is front and foremost in this outing.

With color palettes that range from succulent green to electric blue to pistachio to dusty pink, this collection is aimed to the male consumer that is not afraid of bold color. And Hart’s bold color predilection is right on target with his Palm Springs inspiration and Julius Shulman’s color photography of prints and patterns.

Hart has also managed to evoke a 1950s Palm Springs resort feel to this collection without making the collection seem dated or too vintage while still maintaining his inspired point of view. There is craft in finding that delicate balance. This collection could have easily become an homage to 1950s Palm Springs. But, it is not; the collection is fresh, current and has market appeal.

There were not breakout menswear silhouettes in this collection or innovative uses of new textiles in this spring collection. Instead, David Hart is continuing to do what he does best, presenting classic men’s sportswear in a way that is fashion forward and appealing to the average male consumer.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in this collection were Hart’s suit in dusty pink with all over yucca print cotton dress shirt, knit merino wool argyle polo in navy with sand Irish linen Bermuda shorts and tuxedo jacket in Italian silk jacquard, tuxedo trousers in black mohair, cotton pique tuxedo shirt, and atomic print cotton bowtie.

—William S. Gooch

Lucio Castro Spring 2015

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Lucio Castro references cinematic beach scenes from 1970s foreign cinema in this spring 2015 collection. (Think Luchino Visconti’s Death in Venice (1971).) Mix this reference in with “Soviet summers” in the beach towns of Odessa and Sopot and Castro’s Argentinian roots and you have a dynamic hodgepodge and which to create a collection.

Unfortunately, this interesting assemblage of motifs missed the mark in this outing. Though there were separates—especially the shorts and jackets—that could be mixed and matched with garments from other menswear collections, Castro sometimes failed to bring all these references into a cohesive point of view. And the macramé-like belts, which added a folksy quality to the clothes, need to be eliminated.

What does work in this collection is the easy, relaxed vibe of the clothes. Still, the collection had a bit of junior men’s feel to it. And though this collection bordered on a junior menswear resort presentation, there were pieces that could be worn in less temperate spring climates.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection was Castro’s mélange green Boris cardigan, green reverse stripe shirt, and cream-quilted knit shorts, navy Mac jacket with polka-dot lining, bright blue free plaid shirt, navy and black-stripe textured shorts, and green suede jacket, white concession tee with olive Donnie shorts.

—William S. Gooch

J. Lindeberg Spring 2015

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For spring 2015 J. Lindeberg looked to rock n’ roll silhouettes of the late 1960s. This inspiration is a carryover from last season, and true to form creative director Jessy Heuvelink continued to find a way to make this point of view fresh, current and invigorating. Entitled “Biotopia” Heuvelink infused florals, prints and 3-D embellishments while maintaining the collections nod to 60s rocker style.

Though the brand over the years has become known for collections that have high consumer appeal, this spring collection’s continuation of very familiar silhouettes—tight pencil suit pants and narrow jackets— Heuvelink did take some risks, mostly in the fabrications and mixing of a variety of influences.

Where this collection excels is in Heuvelink’s marrying of different street and rocker styles from the 60s with a mix of color and print fabrications without loosing its modern point of view. Though at times the collection may seem like an homage to the Fab Four or rock n’ roll bands like the Rolling Stones, The Turtles, and Jim Morrison and the Doors—there is also a slight nod to the early rock bands of 70s in this collection with hints of the Ramones and Jefferson Airship—this collection is far more than that. The chicness and elegance distilled through Heuvelink’s kaleidoscope of influences and fabric combinations should solidly places this collection in the constellation of male fashionisto’s spring 2015 faves.

Heuvelink elevates this spring outing from a 60’s rock band tribute by pairing patterns and fabrications with silhouettes that were never put together during that era. Zebra-stripped tribal jackets with mesh tees and skinny trousers, bomber sleeveless jacket with a grey jumpsuit, and a suede grey short trench with white jeans were never seem in the tumultuous Sixties. Still, the collection is slick, sophisticated, well-thought out and consumer friendly.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in this outing is Heuvelink’s zebra-stripped tribal jacket with skinny trousers and mesh tee, sleeveless grey bomber with grey jumpsuit, and hand-pained floral leather jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Carlos Campos Spring 2015

September 5, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Last fall/winter season New York Fashion Week (NYFW) tried something a little different. For the past few seasons, the menswear presence during NYFW has seen a significant reduction in the amount of menswear designers that present during the spring/season runway/presentation season.

With the most prominent menswear designers presenting in London, Milan, and Paris in late June and menswear market weeks following directly afterwards, it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense for menswear designers to show their spring/summer collection in New York City in early September. Most of the decisions around the menswear collections have been made two months prior to NYFW. That said; Y-3, John Varvatos, and recently Michael Bastian, as well as many other menswear designers no longer show in NYC.

With corporate sponsor Cadillac, last February NYFW looked to minimize the cyphering off of menswear designers. And it seems to be taking effect. For spring 2015, 10 menswear designers—sponsored by Cadillac—showed at Industria Superstudio the day before the official start of NYFW.

Carlos Campos was one of those designers. For spring/summer 2015 Carlos Campos looked to athletic active wear as expressed to graphic elements and bold colors. Taking a nod from artist Javier Abarca, in this collection Campos has evolved his man from an interesting the fashion guy who had a deep penchant for updated sportswear looks to a man who is chic, sophisticated and on trend without abandoning his love of garments at that facilitate comfort and ease of movement.

Where in previous collections Campos would stay mostly with neutrals, for spring 2015 there were bold dashes of color throughout the entire collections. And the graphic elements in this collection that went beyond mere embellishment really added that wow factor that was sometimes missing from some of Campos’ previous outings.

Image courtesy of Ernest Green

Dressing his guy at every jointure of his day in not new for Campos. However, in this collection, Campos raising the bar in refinement and fashion-forward sensibility, demonstrating that his guy is not only sporty, but also has a strong sense of style.

—William S. Gooch

Gents Spring 2015

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Fisticuffs anyone? Whether you want to box or love the manly sport of Fisticuffs, Gents’ CEO Josh Reed looked to the macho sport for inspiration for the brands spring 2015 collection. Reed also infused the collection with Formula I race car references expressed in the clean lines and traditional racecar color palettes.

“Color plays a huge part for us this season and each tone has a meaning behind it. This season’s color ways represent positivity, masculine energy, and conveys strength and courage; it truly goes hand-in-hand with our inspiration,” details Reed.

Since Gents launched in 2012, Josh Reed has focused the lifestyle brand on a high quality product and a fashionable design aesthetic. This season, however, Reed is pushing Gents to embrace masculine motifs. “Whereas fall 2014 was focused on the brand’s expansion, spring 2015 is more thematic and hones in on the high quality product we’re known to make.” Explains Reed.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Gents’ color palette this season ranged from the warm tones of blue and red to transitional undertones of grey, navy, black, and white. And though the collection centered on active/athletic wear as daywear; perhaps, the very wearable garments needed some more interesting design elements. Retail value is important to any collection, particularly menswear line; still, fashionable male consumers are looking for garments that go beyond the tried and true. And to this respect, Gents fell a little flat.

—William S. Gooch

Bespoken Spring 2015

September 5, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

Bespoken’s creative directors Lian and Sammy Fayed play up the idea that less is more in their spring 2015 collection. They posit the point of view that the male consumer wants fashionable, easy, relaxed clothes that fit into their everyday lives. In that respect, the Fayeds are correct. Still, menswear staples or clothes that men can wear at every jointure of their day still needs to have some element of a wow factor. And in this collection, the wow moments were few and far between.

Though were some pieces that were eye catching, Bespoken’s color-blocked ocean blue and navy jacket, and grey print suit, most of the somber looks in this collection fail to register. One thing that can be said about this collection is that the tailoring and fit is spot on.

It is difficult to come up with attention-grabbing collections every season, and interesting, innovative silhouettes are hard to come by. Still, the American mal consumer—though slow to evolve his fashion quotient—wants more that a nice jacket and fitted slacks. That is not to say there is a little retail viability in this season’s outing; there is. However, a little more splash of color and adventure would have done this collection a lot of good.