Front Row — Page 64

Karolyn Pho Spring 2015

September 8, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Imagine being asleep in a lucid dream and trapped inside a hospital is the entire cast of “Scrubs.” Everyone is naked and without a designer wardrobe when suddenly a closet appears and all medical uniforms of the cast are futuristically inspired. This vision summarizes, Vagabond, the spring 2015 collection of LA stylist turned designer Karolyn Pho.

This season Pho cleverly transformed medical scrubs, nursing outfits, and even Dansko white clogs into a cool downtown uniform. How does Pho rework such stark references and make a collection playful and whimsical? Mostly in a color palette of sky blue and pearl white, Pho adds sequins on several ensembles and highlights erogenous zones with cutouts, pops of color and racer back looks.

A few standout pieces included a saturated emerald green deep v shift dress and ivory mock neck tubular pleated gown. Pho did well redesigning the lab coat into several remixed designs including: shirtdresses, blazers, overcoats and tees all interestingly persuaded by men’s tailoring techniques.

Images courtesy of Dan and Corina Lecca/nymag.com

Pho’s day jackets, the remakes of lab coats, were great additions for a woman’s daytime wardrobe. Some “party” dresses lacked maturity and even with added sequins the transformation of fantasy into reality did not always translate. Yet, overall Karolyn Pho’s collection was a light display of future cool.

—Kelly L. Mills

Venexiana Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For several seasons now, Kati Stern has demonstrated that she has a strong affection for column gowns that harken back to silhouettes of the Golden Age of Hollywood. And this season was no exception.

Though Stern did employ other silhouettes this season, the column silhouette that she incorporated so brilliantly for fall/winter 2014 was still front and center for spring 2015. What was different in this outing was Stern’s use of sequins and cutouts.

Stern started this collection with an assemblage of black gowns with cutouts that were a combination of crop top and illusions. The column silhouette continued through much of the collection with a color palette that included lots of metallic fabrics in pewter, bronze, petrol, gold leaf and silver.

Though the column silhouette worked adequately well in this collection, fall 2014 seemed more of fit for Stern’s column gowns. Perhaps, that was due to Stern’s ingenious pairing of the column gowns with cropped fur jackets and Stern’s using more dark hues and colors rendering the fall 2014 looks more drama, glamour, and distinction.

For spring 2014 there was, of course, more bold color and wider variety of embellished fabrics. Still, the repetition of one sequined gown after the next tended to dull the excitement of the initial beautiful sequined renderings, especially when Stern, as always, has so many looks in collection—57 to be exact.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Still, there were several brilliant standouts. Stern’s multicolored floral silk chiffon halter gown with crystal detail, mint silk satin one-shoulder gown with Preciosa crystal belt, black and gold sequin beaded halter gown, petrol sequin halter gown with Preciosa crystal collar, and dusty rose beaded sequin gown with plunge neckline and Preciosa crystals prove that Kati Stern is still on her game. And though not quite as provocative and stunning as last season, still on trend, glamorous, elegant, and worth noting.

William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

For spring/summer 2015 there is lots of sheer fabrics, bare skin and more bare skin. And no body does bare skin better than Custo Barcelona. Aptly named this SKIN collection emphasized the sensuality of the feminine silhouette, allowing the sexual, and sometimes sassy side of women to come out, front and center.

Custo Barcelona is a miasma orf bold color, fabric combinations, silhouettes and design aesthetic. And where the disparate points of view has left some consumers confused or nonplussed some seasons, for spring 2015 Custo’s crazy quilt of ideas was more cohesive and consumer friendly.

In this outing, Dalmau Custo channeled Giorgio Sant’Angelo with a nod to Rudi Gernreich. The geometric cutouts and subtle transparencies in a range of textile—ultra light linens, flowy silks, and a variety of diaphanous fabrics—helped created depth, texture, and nuance.

The spring/summer 2014 collection made for the consumer who is in shape and not afraid to show some skin. Custo stays in trend this season with lots of cutouts, sheer fabrics and wide mix of fabrications. And though this collection had more a resort point view, projected toward exotic locales, there were some great separates that would work in a variety of spring/summer temperatures.

Though the reveals in this collection were provocative, they were not without taste or sophistication. Still, the daring Custo Barcelona devotees would be more aligned with where the brand is going this season than most customers. That said; there were some separates and in particular the men’s look that would appeal to consumers who are not a part of the Custo shopping cabine.

As always there were lots of bold color combinations in this collection. However, unlike previous outings, there were more neutral—black and white combinations—than usually found in a Custo Barcelona collection. Perhaps, this was one of the elements that made this collection more consumer-friendly. And the joy, sensuality and whimsical spirit of this outing added to the appeal that may capture a more diverse audience.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Lie Sang Bong Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

For spring 2015 Lie Sang Bong looked to happiness that can be achieved by dedication and hard work in spite of personal and/or national tragedy. This positive outlook on life was reflected in garments that incorporated a dreamy cloudscape that looked upward toward paradise, a nirvana of sorts.

For this frothy paradise Bong collaborated with Korean artist Jang Seung Hyo. This projection toward heavenly bliss held a special significance for Bong in light of the Korean ferryboat MV Sewol tragedy that claimed the lives of several high school students. Still, Bong used this tragedy as a way to tap into his own inner positivity, creating a spring collection that was a masterpiece of construction, technique and innovation.

Unlike some collections this season that solely went for looks that substituted retail viability in place of creativity and innovation, Bong found that delicate balance between consumer appeal and looks that were pieces of fashion art. That said; some looks may not translate easily from runway to department store or boutique racks. But, again, fashion should not always be about merchandising or pandering to the lowest common denomination. And Bong demonstrates in this collection that fashion as art and fashion as commerce can be congenial bedfellows.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

This exuberant and uplifting collection featured abstract butterfly prints, neutrals and hues of sky blue and gold. And Bong’s marriage of architecture and fantasy were expressed in his inimitable detailing, digital lace designs, airy trench coats and frothy separates that can be mixed and matched with a variety of garments.

—William S. Gooch

L.A.M.B. Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

After a three-year absence, celebrity music star Gwen Stefani brought her L.A.M.B. line back to New York Fashion Week. For spring/summer 2015, the international rocker seemingly sourced her global jaunts as inspiration for her collection entitled “The New Nomad.”

This line stays true to form of past L.A.M.B. collections, grounded by their customary trousers and jumpsuits. However, this time around, Gwen and Co. played with more cuts and colors. The look is African, bohemian, and indigenous. The base color palette is orange, fuchsia, and ice blue, blended together in ikat prints, tribal patterns, and indigenous designs reminiscent of the untouched landscapes of exotic locales. There is a full range of skirts and dresses, offered in midi, knee, and floor lengths. The crop tops, sweatshirts, and jackets are bold separates that effortlessly evoke a luxe aesthetic. The bags easily transition with you as you go from city dweller to global jet setter. There is even a touch of menswear influence, highlighted by an ice blue suit paired with a printed top. The entire line comes together for a woman who wants to look as though she marches to the beat of her own drum, off the beaten path, but her style is still impeccably put together.

Backstage, Gwen stated, “we are all so inspired by each other’s cultures, and how we influence each other.” Outside of the L.A.M.B. presentation, Fashion Reverie’s own Kayla Nicole caught up guests, including actress Daniele Brooks of Orange Is The New Black, and asked them about their own sense of style. Check out the video below.

—Carl Ayers

Parke & Ronen Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by Dickie Greenleaf the most coveted character in The Talented Mr. Ripley, Parke & Ronen’s models donned RetroSuperfuture eyewear, schoolboy prep-cuts, tanned bodies with an arrogant attitude. Colors of the collection were inspired by the Mediterranean lifestyle set in patterned stripes and printed button downs and Polos in sorbet-flavored palettes of peach, mint green, and limoncello.

Another reference to the film’s glamorous lifestyle was the idea of swimming and sailing. Classic nautical striped shirts with an homage to America’s red, white and blue were quite smart. They helped to balance out a series of swim trunks that perhaps are more preferable for those that fancy the Euro-chic lifestyle in Cape Cod or the Hamptons.

Parke & Ronen began in 1997 by fusing backgrounds of European traditions of haute couture with American sensibility. And that point of view continued in this collection. Though the brand now leans more heavily toward American sportswear, Parke & Ronen still manage to infuse their collections with European traditions of smart tailoring with attention to detail.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

And as always if the male consumer wants to look good in Park & Ronen clothes it is necessary to spend quality time in the gym as evidenced by the svelte models that always pepper any Park & Ronen runway show. This season was no exception.

—Kelly L. Mills

Desigual Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring/summer 2015 Desigual has once again united with iconic couturier Christian Lacroix. In this, Desigual and Lacroix’s third year of collaborating, the two powerhouses have come together to create a collection inspired by and, at times as fragile as, Mother Nature herself.

Nature’s flora and fauna influence are abundantly apparent in the prints and patterns, as this collection is a cornucopia of color. Jade, white, and onyx serve as backdrops to the vibrant hues of daisies, desert roses, tropical hibiscus and Mexican dahlias while ocean blues remind us of the waterways that connect us all.

Not energized by just one locale, Lacroix’s collection is a multicultural cross-section of dream destinations. Light and airy tank dresses and maxi skirts invoke a Mediterranean spirit as they are coupled with South American motifs. The Ibiza influence is featured in floral frieze and breezy mini shorts, while kimono-style tops represent Japan.

The colors and prints aren’t the only eye-catching features of this collection; the range of styles is also to be applauded. The Desigual consumer can choose from fun and sporty to young and sophisticated all in one shop. The varsity-style jackets can take you from early tailgate to summer music festival. The sailor-style trousers and mini dresses prepare you for a night on the town … any town.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

The real standouts of this collection are the blue and white floral coat, the jacquard mini dresses, and the printed tank dress. These looks offer a hint of sophistication fun that can enhance any woman’s wardrobe. As the designer says, “a blossoming kaleidoscope, the collection is a gift meant to inspire happiness, one bloom at a time.”

—Carl Ayers

Sally Lapointe Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

What can be said of Sally Lapointe? Well, the one thing that can be said is that season after season; the brand never fails to deliver. Since Fashion Reverie has been covering Sally Lapointe, we have seen her evolve her aesthetic to include a range of perspective without loosing her core point of view.

From collections that have incorporated Lapointe’s futuristic mien to collections that displayed Lapointe’s penchant for dramatic statement pieces, season after season the brand continues to refine its aesthetic, crystalizing its creative point of view into pristine reflection of Lapointe’s seemingly endless reservoir of design talent and craftsmanship.

For spring 2015, Lapointe was back to the urban fashion warrior; a direct departure from her more elegant fashion dissertation on column silhouettes and coats with restrained volume. Never one to abandon a point of view that has sustained the brand; Lapointe juxtaposes masculine and feminine and the hard and soft like no other. And this collection is possibly her strongest mix of those disparate elements. Those elements are ideally expressed through Lapointe’s pairing of sheer diaphanous tops with skirts that had volume and structure.

Though this collection fostered a minimalist approach, there was lots of design in this spring outing. Structured skirts contained back zipper details, simple shift-like tees, bandeau, and crop tops were ingeniously paired with asymmetrical structured skirts, ostrich-feathered tops were coupled with asymmetrical skirts, and cropped bomber jackets worked well with structured midi dresses and skirts.

And just when you thought this would be a dissertation on neutrals, Lapointe ingeniously injected rustic orange and salmon tone variations. If there was one misstep in this collection, it was the studded oversized belts that worked well on some looks but made other looks lose the lightness that permeated throughout the lineup.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Lapointe’s deceptive “less is more” allowed her in this collection to demonstrate the genius of her craft. And where others who follow this directive produce collections that fail to make a statement, with Sally Lapointe this point of view only highlights what many fashion pundits have know for some time. Sally Lapointe rocks!!

—William S. Gooch

A Moi Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

A Moi, a new designer collection by Spanish designer Alejandra Alonso launched in 2013, is a brand to keep on your radar. Alonso works well with texture and line to create a chic femininity and an easy approach to daywear that can ease into night.

Childhood memories and family trips to St. Biarritz inspired the recent spring/summer 2015 collection poetically entitled, Reflections. Presented at the Highline Hotel, A Moi, showcased models in modern tailored asymmetrical jackets that ironically appeared with both a vintage and futuristic appeal. A collection that could easily travel and still create a variety of preppy, cool looks was key, for example: waist-length jackets with shorts, day dresses and A-line skirts in colors that referenced the sea. Even a couple of sexy fitted knit dresses were nice ensembles in a nautical navy and foam green color.

Reflections is a destination collection that can easily pack into a suitcase for a long weekend. A vintage mood set in the times of art and leisure, models were red-lipped and made to look sun-kissed, some handled badminton racquets as accessories, while all donned sleek wet hair as if they were fresh fish just out of water.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

A Moi accessories are also available and offer a sophisticated balance to the designer’s noteworthy disposition of casual chic in design and fabrication. Did any one say St. Tropez?

—Kelly L Mills

Duckie Brown Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring/summer 2015, “80’s Redux” is the name of the game at Duckie Brown. Inspired by the UK music scene of the mid-1980’s—think The Stone Roses and The Verve—creative directors Daniel Silver and Steven Cox explained that they set out to create a collection that’s a step away from their usually aesthetic. They described this collection as “lighter, softer, and more subversive” than past collections, and that translates into being their “most wearable, most commercial” collection to date.

Noticeably absent this season was their women’s wear. Rather than show both collections together as they did last season, or produce two separate shows, the design duo opted for a look book of their women’s collection and let the men walk the runway.

With the overall theme of stripes, wide-checkered prints and pale colors, this collection starts to resemble the underground “normcore” fashion movement. “Normcore”, a contraction of “normal” and “hardcore”, is the fashion trend of wearing clothing that looks unpretentious, normal, and almost unidentifiable (a lá Jerry Seinfeld in the 90’s.) Never the brand to follow the rules, and ever the ones to play with fit and proportion, Silver and Cox had to add their own spin on it. Present in this collection is the drop-crotch pant of which the duo is almost synonymous, as well as large, oversized shirts accessorized with plaid bucket hats. However, the most unique garments were the curved seam trousers which sat snug at the waist, billowed out around the hips, and curved back in for a straight pant leg.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Not neglecting their more daring customers, the designers presented a blue-glittered Harrington jacket that also had a matching pair of shorts and bucket hat. For those wanting to be more fashion comfortable rather than fashion forward, the most wearable items are the outerwear. Solid offerings from a khaki trench coat to a checkered bomber jacket to a plaid utility jacket ensure that there is something for every man.

—Carl Ayers