Front Row — Page 63

Elle for Kohl’s Spring 2015

September 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Ooh lah lah.

Parisian chic isn’t usually a term associated with the budget department store chain Kohl’s. But, a special limited edition collection that debuted last month during New York Fashion Week is aiming to bring a bit of elan to Kohl’s customers.

The collection by Kohl’s in-house design team uses the Elle brand as its inspiration promising a taste of the Elle trademark French glamour and sophistication at Kohl’s prices. The results: elegant chic with some terrific dashes of panache.

The bulk of the collection was built around wardrobe staples done with a dash of style. A trench coat, for example, was catapulted from the mundane to standout status with well-placed black piping that flattered the figure. Houndstooth check jazzed up an otherwise basic peplum top paired with textured front cigarette pants.

There was a cheeky, street-smart sensibility here as well with several pieces boasting French phrases like sweaters that winked with slogans like “L’amour,” “Oui Oui,” and “J’adore.” Of course, this isn’t Chanel but the French are known for a sense of cheeky irony so these slogan items seemed perfectly in step with the mood and feel of a street-smart Paris woman.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

The most interesting and risky (fashion-wise) pieces came in the eveningwear. A perfectly on-trend organza stripe dress hit just the right notes as did a deceptively simple lace shell and pencil skirt combination. But a Charles James–inspired high-low ball gown, while admirably ambitious and eye-catching, showed the limitations of creating on a Kohl’s budget. Even in our egalitarian world, there are still some things that call for a higher quality of materials and execution.

But, this was a minor misstep in a mostly exemplary collection that will give the Kohl’s customer plenty of budget-conscious options.

—Karyn D. Collins

Mauricio Alpizar Spring 2015

September 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Australian-based designer Mauricio Alpizar and London-based accessories brand A. Barretts collectively showcased their latest spring/summer 2015 collections, Summer Nights, during New York Fashion Week at Chelsea restaurant Bocca di Bacco. This season, inspiration was found in fashion icons Bianca Jagger and Grace Jones. Inspired by the glamour of New York City in the 1980’s, the collections commemorated those memorable moments of fine dressing and fine dining right before hitting Studio 54.

The fashion event began with a soiree hosted by celebrity chef Kristin Sollenne of Bocca di Bacco. Celebrating fashion week indulgences and ‘Domestic Chic,’ a fusion of fashion and food, Sollenne introduced her signature pastas and sauces and auctioned off an A. Barrett’s clutch for the Hope Foundation, a charity organization that supports education through scholarships and the arts. After a long day of fashion showings, guests were graciously greeted with a curated ‘80’s menu including hors d’ oeuvres and specialty cocktails coined ‘Move Like Jagger’, ‘Reverie’ and ‘Eddie a Go-Go.’

Designer of the brand Mauricio Alpizar is Costa Rican and Asdrubal Barreto-Abreu of A Barretts is Venezuelan, both directors successfully blend their international lifestyles into their collections while still preserving their South American roots. Influenced as children by rural textures and animals of their homeland, both designers incorporated these threads into their inspiration. Alpizar’s use of the owl as a symbol of the night and female mystery was wisely referenced in his mostly white collection revealing sheer tops, jackets and jumpsuits trimmed in white feathers or draped fringe imitating the look of bird wings. Evening dresses boldly displayed images of owls both literally and figuratively.

Images courtesy of Fashion Gallery

UK accessories brand A. Barretts, headed by creative director Asdrubal Barreto-Abreu, stylishly complemented Alpizar’s collection with exotic skinned leather clutches and small evening bags. A. Barretts new collection, entitled Hidden Summer Nights, added various applications of metals, crystals, and high quality chrome to exotic skins and glossy textures meant to reflect our creature within. Highlights of A. Barretts collection were vintage references with modern interpretations including a feathered laser-cut grey leather handbag with silver chain, furry hounds tooth and bubble-puffed leather pouchettes.

—Kelly L. Mills

Marlon Gobel Spring 2015

September 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Transhumanism: a cultural and intellectual movement seeking to transform the human condition by developing and making widely available technologies to greatly enhance human intellectual, physical, and psychological capacities. Transhumanist thinkers speculate that humans may eventually be able to transform themselves into beings with such greatly expanded abilities as to merit the label “posthuman.”

This philosophy of “transhumanism” serves as the inspiration of the Marlon Gobel spring/summer 2015 collection. The collection is based around three main points: (1) human augmentation through technology resulting in us becoming stronger, faster, and better; (2) technology is fashion from the fabrics to the electronics we use; and (3) a “wearable device” can be anything from a water repellent fabric coat, to eyewear that captures what your eyes may miss, to a handheld super computer you use to communicate and share your life.

For spring 2015, designer Marlon Gobel has taken contemporary menswear and advanced it with a futuristic feel. He has refrained from designing a “one size fits all uniform of the future” and instead offers selections that vary upon lifestyle. For the more fit and athletic male, there are form-fitting tees and polo shirts paired with 5-pocket shorts that fall perfectly at the knee, seeming to give a nod to his tutelage under designer Thom Browne. For the more universal casual wear customer, there are wonderful wardrobe staples offered in cotton dress shirts and full-fit trousers that fall right at the ankle. Asserting that you can be fashion-forward even in a post-modern world, Gobel provides a double-breasted blazer and a formal jacket for those who want a classic look, no matter the century.

However, what particularly stands out in this collection is his outerwear. His crocodile motorcycle jackets in silver and gold give a Tron-like speed demon effect, while his navy neoprene trench prepares you to battle the elements in any environment. One interesting highlight is his nylon-stretch and cashmere-knit shoulder shrugs. Variably, they work well with his athletic and casual wear while subtly flirting with modern-day androgyny.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Thankfully, Gobel did not over-design this collection. He stayed away from the idea of unisex bodysuits or shapeless robes that are often depicted as futuristic clothes. Rather than being costumy, Gobel kept some of the current trends in menswear and modernized his garments with accessories by Knox Armor gloves, Dominic Elvin augmentation headpieces, and shoes from the post-modern design company United Nude. Fortunately, for the Marlon Gobel consumer, this collection is very customer-friendly and will fit into your wardrobe for now and many seasons to come.

—Carl Ayers

Harbison Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Charles Harbison designer of Harbison collection states, “I love women who embrace their contradictions: their strength and frailty, wisdom and curiosity. “

Harbison Collection is smart and embodies a cool elegance. Harbison has developed a modern style interpretation of life’s dualities: the masculine and feminine, color and line and of course, the whimsy and the reality.

This season Harbison once again loves juxtaposition and like any artist cleverly pulls it all together in a magical menagerie that could subsequently wardrobe Uma Thurman in a Tarantino film. Inspirations include artist Brice Marden, the soulful and earthly textures of Erykah Badu, patron of the arts Pannonica de Koenigswarter, and a Japanese Zen garden melted into one solid collection.

“My client is the girl who wants to navigate her life in refined luxury sportswear where she not only communicates her vulnerability but also her power and intelligence.”

Images courtesy of Charles Harbison

This season has plenty of great fashion moments including tea-length evening dresses, a fabulous pair of mustard-colored wrap culottes, red-stretch wool ruffle trousers with suspenders, and a navy pencil skirt with a front zipper embellished with detachable silk crepe flowers. Must-have pieces include a black pinstripe suit, trench, and navy mosaic wool overcoat.

Charles is originally a student of art and architecture and has recently shown his last two collections at Milk Gallery for MADE. Harbison is one of the few up-and-comers with a distinct point of view; sold in stores Satine in L.A., Ikram in Chicago, and Matches in London..

—Kelly L. Mills

Betsey Johnson Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Betsey Johnson looked to the theme of marriage equality for inspiration for her spring 2015 collection. As always, Betsey Johnson’s runway shows are fun, frolicky, and at times a bit frivolous. The overarching question now is, after all these years does this design icon still have it, or is she just rehashing old ideas?

Well, Johnson is rehashing old ideas as evidenced in this spring collection. But, she still has it!!! Though this collection was heavy on theatrics and a little light on design, Johnson still managed to have fashion pundits rethink some of her tried and true silhouettes. What may have diminished some of the viability of this collection was having too many celebrities and personalities walking her runway. Still, all is forgiven because no one puts on a show like Betsey. A Betsey Johnson runway show is like going back to a favorite dessert that you don’t have very often; you always anticipate the return.

When it came to the actual garments in the show, the looks that had the most impact and retail viability were Johnson’s opening set of pastel, metallic cocktail dresses. And though Betsey divided her collection into various themes, some didn’t quite register, while others feel on the side of costume. Though her lingerie/bedroom theme looks were cute and flirty, the looks should probably be left to a little slap and tickle in the boudoir.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

Some of the more wearable pieces in the collection were the polka-dot shirtdress in lavender chiffon, a white tuxedo jacket with fitted pants, and a teal lame bridesmaids dresses. There were some interesting bride’s wedding gown options, but some of the beauty of the gowns was lost of the Rupaul’s Drag Race alumni who wore them!

—William S. Gooch

Serena Williams for HSN Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Serena Williams hits it out of the ballpark. Well, in her case in the extreme corners of any tennis court. As the Grand Slam Winner of 18 Grand Slams, expectations were high when it came to Williams showing her spring 2015 collection for HSN during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Tennis champion Caroline Wozniacki, Coco Rocha, and even the revered Anna Wintour were in attendance. Unfortunately, Williams didn’t live up to expectations.

But Williams’ milquetoast spring 2015 collection may not be all her doing. She is designing for HSN, a clothing network that appeals to a middle of the road common denominator of consumer buying taste. Hmm, maybe, that is the strum and drang, here.

Interestingly, Serena Williams’ NYFW debut was not completely a typical HSN experience. There was good design in the collection, especially some of the moto jackets in this showing. Coincidentally, some of the better looks in the collection were only made for the runway show and are not available for consumers to purchase on HSN.

In spite of the uneven elements of the collection, Williams did demonstrate that she does understand what the HSN shopper wants; clothing that is easy, comfortable, and that can be dressed up. And Williams’ electric blue, zippered dress was a knockout, as well as some of her asymmetrical skirts.

Images courtesy of fashionwirepress.com

Now, if the fashion industry could only get her to design a collection minus HSN!!

—William S. Gooch

Michael Costello Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2015 Michael Costello looked to the goddess inside every woman. This goddess, supernatural spirit inhabits forests, fields, caves, lakes and the sea. She is alluring to men and attracts to the attention of gods and demigods. Aloof and magical, this woman marches to her own beat, always in control of her amorous interludes, inspired by earth elements and the inner workings of otherworldly manifestations.

In this spring 2015 collection, Costello relies heavily on mermaid silhouettes, as well as other silhouettes that show off a woman’s curves. Costello hit many of the right notes a collection that was majestic, elegant and editorial. Still those right notes all came together cohesively as one note, focusing sometimes too much on the mermaid silhouette. When Costello veered away from the sculptural mermaid silhouette, the collection began to have more depth, nuance, and whimsy.

Costello stayed on trend with lots of illusions, sheer fabrics and skin exposure. Though the reveals were for the most part tastefully done, it is hard to imagine women outside the realm of models, actresses, and pop stars having the gumption to expose their “goodies” to the masses.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

What Costello did manage to do in this outing is beautifully express his aesthetic through sheer florals, beading, metallic fabrics and colorations that adequately referenced earth elements and his goddess motif. The craft demonstrated in this spring collection solidly places Michael Costello among that new breed of designers that is pushing the genre into new directions, harnessing all the tools of textile innovation, construction and a fashion-forward point of view to create garments that are now and next.

—William S. Gooch

Peter Som Spring 2015

September 9, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

Can good sportswear be both artistic and practical?

Designer Peter Som says finding the balance between those two sensibilities was the driving force behind his spring 2015 collection.

On the practical side, Som provided his ladies with practical solutions, basics with a Som twist. The best of these included an off-white PVC Macintosh, a striped cady double-breasted blazer, and some terrific tailored marine stripe trousers. The classic white shirt was given a carefree twist with a cascade back that billowed with powerful purposefulness as it went down the runway.

The artistic side was reflected in a series of pieces done in a pop art flavored print that looked initially like abstract swirls but, on closer inspection was actually a rose print. And Som inflected even the most mundane items with a bit of flair—tee shirts in python and snake, for example, making the mundane anything but.

The color palette also signaled Som’s mix of practical and the artistic, moving from a military olive green for his urban warrior women to a more lighthearted stripe such as Som’s multi pop stripe cady double breasted blazer, worn with a different stripe cady tunic. The multi pop stripe also showed up in a striking cotton tweed double-breasted coat dress and even in a gown perfect for going from daytime to nighttime.

Som also worked with crisp combinations of black and white and brought a true flair of urban sophistication with a series of black pieces including a black crosshatch eyelet appliqué tee shirt and skirt and a black and white shadow floral sundress that also incorporated the black crosshatch eyelet.

Finally, Som interjected a surprise shot of va va voom with gold lame used in a flutter dress and then a double-breasted blazer and romper. And occasional bursts of lipstick and red further guaranteed that the Som girl still has a playful side.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

There were a few misfires here and there, particularly Som’s odd aprons, worn over dresses and tunics. But even with this example of utilitarian chic gone wrong Som’s spring 2015 collection still had plenty of other moments that were perfectly right for the season.

—Karyn D. Collins

Exteberria Spring 2015

September 9, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Leather/animal skins with fur for spring? Though not an untried fabric option for spring—for several seasons we have seen soft leather in shorts, tops and as embellishment for pre-spring garments—still, a complete collection of leather garments is an unusual digression from all the diaphanous fabrics and typical cotton fabrications one would expect for spring/summer collections. However, if the brand is Spain-based Exteberria, perhaps, leather as a spring fabric is not such an odd choice.

For spring 2014, creative director Roberto Lopez Exteberria used leather as a main fabric stable of his collection. And his affinity for leather as a spring fabric choice carries heavily over to his spring 2015 collection.

Known primarily as a menswear designer, Roberto Exteberria has branched over into women’s wear, even including a few women’s wear looks in his appearance at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW). That said; Exteberria strength is his menswear looks, expanding menswear silhouettes to embrace silhouettes that are traditionally a part of the women’s wear assemblage of silhouettes.

Realizing that the male consumer—particularly the American male shopper— is slow to expand his style palette to include new silhouette, in this collection Roberto Exteberria has kept his silhouettes simple as to alienate the male consumer. Still, a lot can be said for Exteberria’s risk-taking; however, will this risk pay off in retail sales.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

What can be said about this MBFW outing is that Exteberria provided a much-needed creative lift to what many fashion pundits see as a rather bland spring 2015 season. Standouts in this spring 2015 collection is the opening look of the black leather-pleated man skirt, beige leather vest with black shorts with beige leather inserts, color-blocked leather top with blue man skirt, and short-sleeved tan leather trench with animal skin shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Nicole Miller Spring 2015

September 8, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

Nicole Miller is sending her ladies flying down to Rio for next spring.

Using the 1933 film “Flying Down To Rio” and the Peter Allen song “Go To Rio” as inspiration, Miller turned her eye for translating themes into a collection that was sexy, fun and full of tropical heat. But fear not, Miller fans.

These are looks that tantalize with a wink but never scream. Miller knows that there’s a difference between clothes that make a woman feel sexy and clothes that make a woman feel overexposed. It’s called taste.

One of the best looks of the collection was the first dress down the runway—a crepe, ruffle hem dress with a crisscross front done in the signature print for the spring collection—a print of lush tropical green enlivened with splashes of orange (one of the color themes across the board of the season, by the way). This was the epitome of Miller’s sensibility—a little bit of heat thanks to a triangle of exposed midriff in the front and a flash of the gams courtesy of the fun but not too fluffy ruffle hem. But, not too dangerous, thank you very much!!

The print also turned up in a swishy pleat skirt and a print strapless dress made to look like pleats.

Images courtesy of style.com

An art deco inspired black and white wave print—a reference to a pattern from the movie—not only served as a pattern for the runway covering, but also showed up in a series of pieces. A Birds of Paradise print continued the journey to Rio in fun pieces like a cotton metal moto jacket.

The theme took an unfortunate turn towards kitsch with a series of pieces festooned with giant pineapples. But just when the pineapple parade threatened to become too much, Miller sent out another series of winners including a delicious tomato colored stretch linen wrap crop top paired with a georgette skirt in a sidewalk fruit stripe pattern, and an ivory floral embroidered shell with a white twill embroidered skirt that hit just the right balance between tropical beauty and urban sophistication.

—Karyn D. Collins