Front Row — Page 62

Chromat Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

OK, lingerie as daywear/eveningwear, latex and vinyl fabrications, garter belts, cone breasts, geometrically cut, revealing garments, exposure of lots of skin; it’s all been done before. (Does anyone remember the 90s runway shows of Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier.)

But, this is the second decade of the Twenty-First century, and at this current point in time, no brand does the aforementioned silhouettes and fabrications better than Chromat. Known for their show stopping looks for Beyonce, Nicki Minaj, Miley Cyrus, and the “Mother of them all” Madonna, the creative mind behind Chromat, Becca McLaren reached deep into her ever expanding repertoire of garments based on architecture, geometric shapes and seduction and created a collection that not only provided a bit of shock value, but injected that special kind of oomph that so absent from the current cadre of collections that sashayed down runways during New York Fashion Week.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Now, these kinds of garments are definitely for a niche consumer base that is not afraid to show what your momma gave you. Still, a lot can be said for fashion that is niche based and represents fashion as art. (There are way too many milquetoast collections that are primed for mass consumption, leaving innovation and creativity on the cutting floor.

That said; McLaren’s intellectual approach to the synthesis of geometric shapes, architecture and fashion-forward design almost puts her in a class by herself. And her fall 2015, if nothing else, demonstrated that her point of view projects toward the future and establishes herself as a purveyor of fashion as minimalist art.

Inspired by a New York magazine story on powerful transgendered CEO Martine Rothblatt who made a robot of her wife Bina from a “mind file,” digitally gathered social media and online information, McLaren used this reference to create a collection based on things that were synthetic; vinyl, rubber, latex, fake Swarovski crystals, fake hair, in other words product that had no human or animal context.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

McLaren’s references points has produced a fall 2015 collection that borders slightly on theatre of the absurd, but always cutting edge and thought provoking; as fashion should. Standouts in this collection were the latticed rubber hoop skirt, black vinyl bustier and panties with pink piping, and sheer fitted black dress with rubber pasties and panties.

—William S. Gooch

Sally LaPointe Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

To modern dance enthusiasts, choreographer Pina Bausch was the epitome of avante-garde dance, always the limits of what could be done on stage with her performance art spectacles that were an anachronism of what audiences expected of modern dance. Often there was no music, and Bausch would draw from the emotions of her dancers and male/female relationships as source material for her choreography. Often she would use spoken word as an integral part of her dance spectacles.

That said; Pina Bausch was an interesting both worthy choice of inspiration was Sally LaPointe’s fall 2015 collection. Known for collections that expand the perception of feminine silhouettes and what can be defined as casual chic, LaPointe’s attraction to the Pina Bausch aesthetic makes total sense. Bausch was always pushing the proverbial modern dance envelope, expanding the dance lexicon to include movement that emphasis emotion over dance technique. LaPointe in her own way does the same thing. Her work is raw, innovative and fashion forward, causing editors and fashion pundits to rethink the feminine silhouette.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though over the years, LaPointe’s work has become more commercial with garments that have more retail viability, she never looses her edge. Finding the delicate balance between retail accessibility and forward-thinking innovation is not an easy marriage, but LaPointe has found a way to make these sometimes-incompatible bedfellows a comfortable pairing.

For fall 2015 LaPointe stayed mostly with a neutral palette that could have been downer for this collection. Taking that into consideration, LaPointe would a way to elevate this collection with great separates and a new sexiness that made this collection sizzle and pop. LaPointe found an innovative way to incorporate the fringe trend by pairing a fringe skirt with an oversized sweater and having a fringe extension that extends the dress to floor length. The fringe appendages and the sliced wool skirts facilitated a lot of movement and that movement quality was definitely influenced by Pina Bausch’s frenetic movement style.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This was LaPointe’s most luxe collection evidenced by fur vests, fur cowl necks, and other fur embellishments. And many of the separates in this outing can be mixed and matched with a variety of looks from the collection or garments from other designers; smart choice LaPointe!!

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were black pony hair vest with cognac double face wool with A-line skirt, black felted cashwool sweater with reptile printed–organza inverted sunburst pleated skirt, black double-faced wool crepe long slit bustier with black wool leg trouser, and black double face crepe with embroidered stitch fringe gown.

—William S. Gooch

Ese Azenabor Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

How does a designer that heretofore does not have a presence on the New York City fashion scene—one of the biggest fashion markets globally—get a presence on one of the most oversaturated international fashion markets? It is a daunting task, and though some have been able to make inroads on this difficult terrain, most have a brief flash of glory and then fade into obscurity. Century 21 is stocked full of designers that used to have a New York Fashion presence, but are now sold at this multi-designer megastore.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Hopefully, Nigerian-born Ese Azenabor with her fall 2015 collection can change all that and make her presence known more than for one brief moment. For inspiration Azenabor looked to King Henry VIII and his kingly splendor for her fall 2015 collection.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

This ornate collection, at times, looked a bit overdone and over embellished for mass-market appeal. However, at closer examination, Azenabor’s oeuvre is for that spirited female consumer who wants glamorous distinction at a price that is somewhat affordable. Though this might seem like a niche market, in actuality this point of view can attract lots of mid-level consumers who want something more than the milquetoast selection of clothes currently seen on the racks in many retail stores, but don’t quite have the deep pockets for Valentino, Gucci, and Versace.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

There were several items in this heavily beaded and embellished collection that could be quite appealing to that female consumer who is looking for that statement item for an exciting night on the town. Standout garments that fit that market are Azenabor’s “Catherin of Aragon” beaded silk-embossed brocade black knee-length dress, “Nemesis White” embellished cape wide leg white crepe jumpsuit, “Taboo” one shoulder embellished velvet jumpsuit, and “Rariva” beaded black crepe wide-legged jumpsuit.

—William S. Gooch

Nicholas K Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With Nicholas K, you will get the nomad chic aesthetic. However, this season the design duo included looks that were more refined and retail friendly while staying true to their signature aesthetic. Though Nicholas K fans love their nomad chic point of view, how many draped, asymmetrical garments can consumers have in their wardrobe without the look becoming a little stale?

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

That said, Nicholas and Chris Kunz for fall 2015 looked to silent movie horror films from the 1920s, in particular “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari’s.” The dark, somewhat gothic elements of the German 20s horror flick flittered into this collection evidenced in looks that bordered on sexy, retro sadomasochistic incarnations with a hint of Victorian elegance.

Suprisingly, this marriage of nomadic chic with Victorian bondage girl—a dissimilar pairing if there was ever one—rendered this outing perhaps more sensual and accessible to consumers. I could envision a lot of young female consumers in these looks more than the Nicholas K urban, nomadic warrior from previous season.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Unlike previous seasons, there were no male looks in this collection. The design duo made up for this lack of menswear by taking the typical man’s pinstripe suit and deconstructing it in some very innovative ways. The pinstripe suite was sometimes deconstructed and turned into an asymmetrical poncho. At other times it was designed into dropped crouch pants with a voluminous pinstriped coat.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

True to form, there were several stunning coats in this collection. Coat standouts were Nicholas K’s marble-printed shearling bomber, burgundy pinstriped suit with fur color, a belted olive and black leather hoodie coat and the shocker of the collection a rather traditionally cut long cashmere camel coat.

—William S. Gooch

Monique Lhuillier Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Monique Lhuillier has done it again!! Just when you think you have figured out her design aesthetic, Lhuillier does the unexpected. From inspirations that are almost literal—remember her spring 2011 “Garden of Eden” collection—to collections that are floral-inspired, seascape-inspired, even movement and exercise inspired, what is consistent about each collection is that there will be plenty of red-carpet looks.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For Lhuillier’s fall 2015 collection there were several red-carpet looks, lots of bold color, and a plethora of currents trends embedded in the clothing. However, this collection reflects Lhuillier evolution in design aesthetic. Lhuillier has evolved beyond just making beautiful gowns; she is now solidly projecting toward re-creating and challenging what the fashion cognoscenti and consumers look for when they think of red carpet and evening luxury clothes. Now don’t get it twisted, Lhuillier’s clothes are still exquisitely beautiful; however, her design aesthetic has developed a steely sophistication that goes several iterations beyond just pretty clothes.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In this collection, Lhuillier has abandoned the tulle skirts and corseted, red-carpet ready gowns that had become her signature look. In their stead, Lhuillier—inspired by mid-70s glam, the 1920s and believe it or not, Kate Moss— synchronized all these influences into seamless collection that reveals her true evolved voice.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the collection opened with the pedestrian, but beautiful body-hugging lace dresses, Lhuillier turned the volume up with high-slit, diaphanous silk charmeuse gowns in burgundy, teal, amethyst, and saffron. Lhuillier also incorporated shearling coats in a variety of colors with lacy, star-embellished bodysuits underneath. Some of standouts in the collection were Lhuillier’s sequined-embellished teal gowns.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The final tableau of models standing in the seated area usually reserved for show attendees was a fantastic exclamation point to the end of the show. It also was a forecast of where New York Fashion Week is heading; more dramatic shows customized for a smaller audience. Consider, Merecedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center is no more. Industry professionals gird your loins, it is going to be a bumpy and exciting spring 2016 season.

—William S. Gooch

GARCIAVELEZ Fall 2015

February 14, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Cadillac New York Men’s Day (NYMD) introduces a lot of menswear designers to the New York fashion market that possibly would go under the radar if it were not for this separate day sponsored by Cadillac that occurs the day before the official start of New York Fashion Week (NYFW). The menswear brand GARCIAVELEZ is one such brand.

For fall 2015 GARCIAVELEZ creative director Carlos Garciavelez looked to the cultural nomad; that sophisticated world traveler who is inspired by his travels and looks to inject his wanderlust spirit into his daily life. This nomadic world traveler is not only curious about his surroundings and the world at large but also encompasses sleek lines and minimal geometric shapes into his wardrobe that reflect a kaleidoscope of global architectural design.

An architect by trade, Garciavelez’s points of reference are imbued with an architect’s sense of proportion and balance, evidenced in a collection that explores horizontal lines as it relates to the male silhouette. Horizontal lines spatially positioned on pockets, lapels and interesting locations on jackets give the impression at times of color blocking. The color blocking aesthetic would be appropriately pinpointed for this collection if Garciavelez were not drawing on his architectural background and his commitment to exploring geometric shapes and horizontal lines.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Garciavelez also delves into the exploration of menswear as a synthesis of tailored men’s suits and athletic wear. These two disparate points of view actually complement each other in this debut collection with standouts being Garciavelez’s black tailored jacket with hoodie and charcoal jacket with hoodie.

—William S. Gooch

Ernest Alexander Fall 2015

February 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For fall 2015 menswear brand Ernest Alexander looked to the romantic wanderings of the world traveler that is expressed in his own personal style. Creative director Ernest Sabine came to this inspiration through his stay at rented retreat in upstate New York.

Inspired by the rented cabin décor that reflected Southwest and Aztec traditions, as well as the rich colors of nature found around the cabin, Sabine used these nature influences to create a color palette of burgundy, grey and softer shades of brown. These color variations work well for a fall collection. And Sabine expanded this color palette by ingeniously pairing his version on a pea coat—cropped in this instance—and a different perspective on silhouettes and fabrics for fall/winter.

Sabine stepped outside of his usual predilection for classic men’s silhouettes by using gingham as a fall fabric, cargo pants in dark wool colors and an ombre of burgundy and grey for pea coats. All these unusual pairings help elevation this fall/winter collection from on just another dissertation on smartly tailored men’s clothes.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in the collection were Sabine’s ombre front-zip jacket with dark trousers, denim workshirt, brown wool jacket with shearling collar, gingham trousers, and burgundy waxed, zip tote, olive cotton shirt, grey blazer, grey trousers, ash leather travel bag, ash leather backpack, brown leather blanket roll, and blue wool bomber with blue wool cargo pant.

—William S. Gooch

Carlos Campos Fall 2015

February 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For fall 2015, Carlos Campos looked to Spanish graphic artist and art director Rafafans. “ I discovered Rafafans’ work while walking the streets of Lima, and became fascinated by his use of patterns and collage to create new textures over existing images,” says Campos. “Although the essence of the image was recognizable, what was done to it rendered it completely new and almost surreal.”

Rafafans’ dream-like images are crafted through his use of collage and photomontage techniques. For this collection, Campos used some of Rafafans’ techniques of combining texture and color interplay with photomontages into his fall 2015 collection. This adaptation has resulted in menswear designs in which overlaid collage-like graphic treatments and patchwork elements are superimposed on fabric. Campos’ attention to detail, tailoring and minimalist approach to menswear is still evident and not hampered by these collage and photomontage-like techniques.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“This collection is about the transformative powers of art to change perception—change in the beholder,” explains Campos. “My designs this season leverages the power of texture and shape to appear different depending on the viewing angle. You could say that this fall for me, texture is the new black.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Like some other menswear designers this season, Carlos Campos relies heavily on color blocking. But using color blocking as a way to express his artistic verve is a creative tool that Campos regularly uses. However, unlike in other collections where Campos’ color blocking technique was a strong focus of his designs, this season Campos’ subtle way of employing color blocking was an ingenious to present texture and fabric combinations.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection were Campos’ light blue cotton button-up shirt, deep navy silk bomber, stone blue cotton/wool gilet and charcoal grey pinstripe wool dropped rise trouser, deep navy cotton button-up shirt with white geo collar print, blue coat with contrast lapel piecing and deep navy tuxedo pants, and white cotton button-up shirt, deep emerald plaid wool tuxedo jacket and dropped rise trousers.

—William S. Gooch

Fingers Crossed Fall 2015

February 13, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For fall 2015, Fingers Crossed creative director Ryu Hayama was inspired by still sound, fragile life forms and the hypnotic undercurrents of the deep blue sea. And this affection for all things marine expressed in Hayama’s color palette of deep navy blues and other nautical blue-printed variations.

Though Hayama stayed mostly with a neutral color palette in this “Abyssopelagic” outing, his shock of bright yellow was a welcomed bold color that added the extra pop of color that the collection needed. Color palette aside, the true star of this collection was the ingenious way that Hayama mixed voluminous men’s silhouettes with more tailored looks.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Tailored coats with wide pants were paired with voluminous workout pants and oversized scarves. Pajama pants were matched with leather bomber jackets. And traditional French stripped sweaters were combined with multi-pleated trousers.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Hayama also keeps this collection on trend by employed belted topcoats, mixing wool cashmere with butter-soft lambskin and sweatpants. Mixing formal wear with informal workout gear is a trend from last spring that is taking on a wider for the male consumer. Unfortunately, most menswear designer are not clear on how to marry these polar opposite in an effective way. Hayama was found the synergy that makes polar opposites complement each other. And that is the genius of this collection.

—William S. Gooch

David Hart Fall 2015

February 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

New York Men’s Fashion Day (NYMFD) by Cadillac is doing its job. And David Hart is a prime example of the NYMFD accomplishing what it set out to do.

Before NYMFD, David Hart was not on the radar of a significant number of menswear fashion editors. From launching his career designing luxury bowties and scarves to launching his ready-to-wear collection in 2013, until NYMFD Hart had not quite made editors stand up and notice. This season Hart not only caught the eyes of fashion editors and journalists, his fall 2015 collection demonstrated that Hart’s aesthetic goes beyond an American sportswear compilation of well-tailored jackets in bold colors.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Looking to the American Southwest, incorporating Native American tribal patterns, and the spaghetti Westerns of the late 1960s, David Hart was able to meld these points of reference into a singular perspective that was modern and thought provoking, causing one to see tribal patterns of the American Southwest in a new and modern way.

There is really nothing new under the sun; however, David Hart’s marriage of Native tribal patterns and the sometimes-campy style of 1960s spaghetti Western will cause male consumers to find a new masculine sexuality in these looks. And David Hart did not abandon his predilection for color in this outing. His blue sapphire suit and rust orange tailored jacket paired with the blue sapphire pant was dead on.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this fall 2015 collection were Hart’s Native American tribal-patterned coat with fur collar, red jacket with tribal patterned-embellishments, and black silk tuxedo jacket with black wooly chaps. Still, there were some garments that will not make it into the retail racks—wooly chaps—but that is OK. A little bit of wacky drama works in most fashion shows. In fact, Jeremy Scott has made camp his raison d’etre, and has built a fashion empire around that aesthetic!! Kudos David Hart.

—William S. Gooch