Front Row — Page 59

The Blonds Fall 2015

February 21, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The Blonds looked to films that juxtaposed the disparate visions of utopian society versus a dystopian society. Drawing inspiration from such idealistic and cataclysmic films as “A Clockwork Orange,” “Orlando,” and “The Holly Mountain,” The Blonds, true to form, delivered a collection that expressed that juxtaposition while maintaining their design aesthetic of cutting-edge, in-your-face, fantasy garments that can only worn by those daring and in good enough shape to wear their form-fitting, revealing creations.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though this was a relatively small collection for the creative duo of Philippe and David Blond, this dynamic duo delivered as they always do every season. The signature looks of heavily embellished, corseted tunics and bodysuits were front and center in this collection. Still, The Blonds utopian and dystopian reference was brilliantly expressed in orange thigh-high boots and orange jacket/capes that paid homage to “A Clockwork Orange,” and glittery embellishments attached to black, plethery-like garbage pants and bustiers, giving a nod to what might be leftover in a dystopian society that is still attempting to add a bit of glam to their lives.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This heavily coveted show was peppered with several celebrities from Paris Hilton to singer Kate Nash to rapper Charli Baltimore. Which is to be expected, particularly when past Blond client’s have include Madonna, Rihanna, Beyonce, Ariana Grande, Britney Spears, and others.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection was The Blonds white bodysuit with silver metallic pasties and white fox jacket, orange asymmetrical corset tunic with orange foxtail coat, and sheer, belted bodysuit with rips and green embellishments.

—William S. Gooch

Zang Toi Fall 2015

February 19, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

For over twenty years Zang Toi has made a name for himself as a designer of luxury women’s wear. Each season he excites Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week audiences with exquisite couture-like collections that denote his affinity for high-end, luxury garments.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

For fall 2015, Zang Toi looked to the beauty of Venice for inspiration. True to form, Zang Toi thrilled audiences and his consumer base with a collection that was sophisticated, chic, and above all, lush. (The production could have done without the aria “O mio babbino caro” from “Gianni Schicchi”.)

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

But this is to be expected from Zang Toi. Beauty and sophistication aside, Zang Toi’s fall collection lacked the youthful exuberance that was so much a part of several collections seen this season. Though Zang Toi incorporated references from the 70s, like some many of his fellow designers, overall this outing bore such a witness to the past that many of the garments lacked the buoyancy and sense of freedom that should be a part of every collection. In other words, Zang’s fall 2015 collection resembled more of an homage to the 1970s than a reference point updated to meet the needs of current consumers.

That said; the collection was very wearable, appealing to the female consumer who has the leisure and deep pockets to go to a variety of cultural events and opening nights. (That particular customer is Zang Toi’s dominant sales base.) Still, one would hope that Zang is looking to expand his design aesthetic and consumer base beyond the wives of financiers and rich Texas oilmen. And though the collection did contain a few sexy short skirts and dresses, those looks would appeal more to the consumer who believes her 50 is the new 30 and has the legs to pull it off!!

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in the collection were Zang Toi’s expertly tailored two-piece suits with fur-collar embellishments, fur-cuffed jacquard opera coat, a hand-embroidered Empire-waist gown, and the finale look of a dramatic coat with a hand-beaded nightscape of La Serenissima.

—William S. Gooch

Reem Acra Fall 2015

February 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Reem Acra/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Greenfashionreverie.com

This season several designers looked to the 1970s for inspiration. Pamella Roland used the mid-70s disco era as a point of reference, Costello Tagliapietra’s perspective on woods women’s chic had a relationship to the early 70’s gingham granny back-to-nature dresses seen through a modern lens, and Vivienne Tam’s 70’s lacy, high-collared homage to the Victorian era.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Reem Acra continued this season fascination with the 1970s with a fall collection that drew inspiration from the bohemian gypsy looks of the 70s—imagine Stevie Nicks of the mid-1970s and the other “crimson and clover” rocker babes of that era—married with the heavily sequined embellished look that reflects Reem Acra’s Middle Eastern heritage.

mages courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

If you can conjure up an image of a bohemian rock n’ roll diva beautifully embellished with beading, sequins and sundry sparklers with a nod to the mid-70s than you are understand the point of view of this collection. Additionally, many of these looks are red-carpet ready.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Reem Acra ingeniously used the cape and caplet sleeve trend to best effect in this collection. Where some designers just propped caplets sleeves on some garments and the look didn’t enhance the garment or seemed like a dissimilar appendage, Reem Acra’s use of this trend really melded nicely into Acra’s design perspective and silhouettes for fall 2015.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though there are far too many standouts in this brilliant collection to single out just a few, true to form and in support of loyal readers we will name out some of the most spectacular looks in this outing. Spectacular standouts include platinum dress with rose lace worn with blush jacket, flame red mink jacket embroidered in lace worn with chiffon and lace dress, panne velvet bottle green jacket with blue chiffon skirt, both embroidered with platinum and pewter, black wool coat with guipere details worn with black lace and chiffon dress, blush re-embroidered gown combined with platinum encrusted sleeves, and brocade embroidered gown, encrusted with metal jewels layered with iridescence.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This fall 2015 collection is perhaps Reem Acra’s best collection to date and with this outing Reem Acra is establishing her rightful place in that constellation of designers who understand how to marry couture detailing in ready-to-wear collections with retail viability; well, if you have deep pockets!!

—William S. Gooch

David Tlale Fall 2015

February 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

While some fashion designers look to Africa as a source of inspiration and are influenced by a plethora of African motifs and themes as a dalliance or a concession, for South African-born David Tlale Africa is constant point of reference in essence his lifeblood.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Since showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week six seasons ago, David Tlale has evolved into a designer whose style and level of taste has distilled into a singular vision of sophistication and global charm. Tlale is fortunate that his South African background facilitates an assimilation of a variety of cultures—Zulu, Afrikaners, British, East Indian, and other South African tribal traditions.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

All these influences are infused into David Tlale’s collections. And for fall 2015 the synergy of these influences are almost seamless. From the East Indian and Muslim references that are evidenced in his men’s looks to Tlale’s feather embellishments that highlight African tribal influences to some of the soft draped looks that denote Madame Gres, Tlale has learned over the past several seasons how to meld all these points of view into garments that express origin while remaining commercially viable.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Like many designers this season, Tlale examined what fashion would look like in a dystopian world. Political and global social upheavals seem to be having an impact of designers for the fall 2015 collections, and though not necessarily a trend with the significant amount of designers using this theme as an overarching influence, unhinged societal order may become an emotional trend.

That said; Tlale’s predominant digital print in this collection is one of dried lava—and aftermath effect of cataclysmic disaster. With a color palette ranging from beige to cement to black with some metallic gold thrown in, Tlate ingeniously juxtaposes these dystopian-based colors and hues with soft fabrics of silk chiffon, silk organza, Ostrich feathers paired with rougher textures double crepe, brocades, and wool.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Though a lot of the women’s looks were outstanding and impactful, what stood out as the most innovative was Tlale’s pairing of soft diaphanous, long silk chiffon skirt/aprons underneath structured men’s jackets. This combination of hard and soft, particularly with menswear looks, demonstrates where Tlale believes menswear is heading. Heading toward a melding of feminine and masculine silhouettes, eventually rendering a seamless synthesis of beauty and sophistication.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Fall 2015

February 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Ever heard of “How Stella Got Her Groove Back”? Of course you have; well for fall 2015 Vivienne Tam got her groove back and a whole lot more. Last season though Tam had some pretty dresses—a given for Tam—overall the collection lacked the kind of punch that the fashion cognoscenti had come to expect from Vivienne Tam.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

That said; this season Vivienne Tam pulled out all the stops. In previous collections, Tam has looked to Chairman Mao and even President Barack Obama iconography for inspiration, this season Tam looked to the controversial European concept of chinoiserie as seen through the lens of urbanized romance.

Though the ideology behind chinoiserie does have at its core racist connotations and borders at looking at Asian culture as “the other,” the ideology also originated from Europeans attempt to inject some of the exotic or “the other” into the decorative arts. At its height during the 18^th century, chinoiserie reached its peak in Europe when it was assimilated into the rococo style.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For her fall 2015 collection, Vivienne Tam chose to present chinoiserie in all its 18^th century splendor expressed in pearlescent paillettes under the sheer tulle and printed silk shifts with sequined and beaded accents. Baroque matted silver and foiled gold lace is derived from Chinese Chippendale gilt mirrors, appliqued onto high-necked, Victorian-inspired silk blouses.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Tam’s infusion of the chinoiserie influence into this collection was front and center, but not heavy handed. And this collection was not without employing some of the industry’s current trends. The return of metallic fibers could be seen in Tam’s metallic turtleneck with 3D beaded trim. The mesh and micro-mesh was evident in Tam’s China red wool Victorian jacket with quilted back techno mesh and fur trim, as well as Tam’s techno mesh laser-cut applique sweater.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were Vivienne Tam’s high neck Victorian phoenix vase cut-out blouse with picture frame lace, camel wool Melton quilted A-line skirt, long floaty dress with reflected Bonsai printed on silk chiffon, and Tam’s wine crepe tunic with black mirror lace overlay with scarlet faux leather skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Rochambeau Fall 2015

February 16, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

While some menswear designers are just discovering workout gear and street wear as casual work attire, Rochambeau has been solidly in that design aesthetic since their inception. Their predilection for having a penchant for street wear has always been a dominant point of reference in their collections. As any true genius, true creative are always ahead of their time. And it’s taken all these seasons for some menswear designers to finally catch up to Rochambeau’s raison d’etre.

Surrounding by three huge ice-like sculptures that contained everything from cigarette butts, to old metrocards, “I Love NYC” plastic bags and even old street telephone from the 90s, creative directors Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler gave even more street cred to their collection by having their collection surrounding by throwaway items found on dirty New York City streets.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Although these gritty NYC throwaways were “frozen in time,” so to speak, Rochambeau’s fall 2015 collection was not. In this outing, Cooper and Chandler were projecting what menswear would look like in a futuristic dystopian society; a deconstructed society where men still have a sense of style.

Dystopia seems to be the order of the day for many collections this season. From The Blonds to Nicholas Elliot to Chromat to Nicholas K, their perspective on world disorder, inspired by current events, is informing collections that are beginning to expand the industry’s fashion lexicon.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This fall 2015 collection was highlighted by cyberpunk, futuristic military jackets juxtaposed against relaxed pants with extended crouch. Heavy layering commented on a planet where daily temperatures run the gamut of a thermostat, and can be added or taken off depending the time of day or climate. And swaddling scarves added a modern sophistication to a collection that was at times too heavy on concept, and light on retail viability.

—William S. Gooch

Bihbu Mohapatra Fall 2015

February 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Bibhu Mohapatra’s fall 2015 was subdued and rather conservative. In previous collections Mohapatra infused his collections with gilded embellishments fitting from a designer who has ancestral roots from the Silk Road. This season, Mohapatra went in a totally different direction.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Inspired by French sculptor Camille Claudel and Irish revolutionary Maud Gonne, Mohapatra chose this season to use a neutral color palette as well as colors and hues that spoke to his East Indian heritage—turmeric yellow, clay red, and indigo. Also an influence was the recent death of Mohapatra’s father which may had a more indelible influence on this collection than Maud Gonne or Camille Claudel.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This rather somber collection did not lack sophistication and some well tailored clothes, especially coats, that would appeal to the “ladies who lunch” crowd. When Mohapatra did include some sequined glam to this collection, the silhouettes were matronly and restrained to provide the needed excitement. That said; the pop and dazzle married with a youthful exuberance that so many fashion pundits have to come to expect from Mohapatra was obviously absent.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this outing was Mohaptra’s final look, a cape-back black and white gown, as well as a rust red one-shouldered crepe dress, and astrakhan pencil skirt with bow blouse.

—William S. Gooch

Christian Siriano Fall 2015

February 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of style.com

Christian Siriano has evolved from that fashion wunderkind with lots of potential to a confirmed fashion innovator who consistently has his pulse of what consumers want and where fashion is heading. He has also learned how to incorporate very retail viable garments with other pieces that stretch the proverbial fashion envelope, a very daunting task to say the least.

Images courtesy of style.com

This season Siriano looked to a dream trip to the Congo for inspiration. “The deep, dark and mysterious creatures from the Congo Jungle in the Central African Republic were my main source of inspiration for my fall collection. I was drawn to the home of the silverback gorilla along with other exotic and exquisite creatures … I wanted the collection to feel elegant, powerful, bold but still romantic for the Christian Siriano woman this season,” explained Siriano in liner notes for his fall 2015 show.

Images courtesy of style.com

Siriano realized this dream trip to the Congo in sleek, burnout wool textured dresses; bold animal-printed jacquard coats, and liquid panther-like velvet evening look. Long evening dressed incorporated bold patterns of plant life and jungle flora that keep popping up as oversized palm-printed taffetas and bright citrus embroideries, as well as appliques from the African tulip tree and splashes of color reminiscent of the Heliconia plant.

Images courtesy of style.com

As with any collection, Siriano fails to disappoint; however, in this outing there were some looks that were overwrought and not flattering to the feminine silhouette. Siriano’s cropped top looks—leopard jacquard sleeveless cropped blouse and metallic zebra cropped blouse—particularly out of step with the direction of this collection. And Siriano’s two bronze metallic looks—bronze metallic knit sleeveless high-neck dress and bronze metallic knit long-sleeve tunic with wide-leg pant—seemed slightly out of place.

Still, there were stunning standouts that more than make up for a few missteps. Standouts being Siriano’s tiger wool cashmere leaf collar coat, leopard jacquard and tulle overlay gown, off-the-shoulder-cropped blouse with ostrich feather tea-length evening skirt (the crop top worked with look), and African floral taffeta drop-waist ball gown.

Images courtesy of style.com

Overall, the collection was stunning and a unique combination of familiar silhouettes updated for mass appeal and whimsically thought-provoking, transporters viewers to mysterious, tropical locations without alienating the tried-and-true Siriano fan. And isn’t that what fashion is supposed to; inspire, provoke, transport and make you want to dig a little deeper in your pocket.

Kudos Christian; keep up the fantastic work!!

—William S. Gooch

Georgine Fall 2015

February 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of wwd.com

For fall 2015, the 1970s ruled. From Pamella Roland to Vivienne Tam to Monique Lhuillier, all things 70s were the order the day for many design teams. Where Pamella Roland looked to the early to mid-70s in Paris as detailed in “The Beautiful Fall,” Georgine creative director Georgine Ratelband looked to the Weimar Cabaret in 1920s and 1930s Berlin, mod sensibility of 1960s British designers Ossie Clarke and Biba, and the bright paintings of Richard Lindner and Otto Dix.

So, you might think , “what does that have to do with the 1970’s”? However, if you look at 70s style more carefully, many of the looks were inspired by the 1920s, particularly early 70s looks.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Ratelband successfully reflected the 1920s and 1930s with dress lengths below the knew and in the curly hair mops, bold lips and styling. Still, many of the looks in this collection conjured up images of early 70s Halston—especially the gold lame dresses—and Diane Von Furstenberg’s 70s wrap dresses. What did standout in this collection was Ratelband’s interesting pairing of stylized baseball jackets with some of her more obvious 70s–inspired looks. This rather modern approach to mixing and matching elevated this fall 2015 collection from just another homage to the 70s.

There were quite a few looks in this collection that were very wearable and would naturally appeal to a variety of women. Overall, Georgine Ratelband achieved what the brand was aiming for; wearable retail friendly looks without sacrificing innovation and creativity.

—William S. Gooch

Michael Costello Fall 2015

February 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of WENN Media

Last season, Fashion Reverie joined the online cadre of fashion magazines in praise of Michael Costello’s spring 2015 collection. Costello’s signature look of mermaid gowns with illusions and cutouts was a surefire hit during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The collection was sensually chic, fashion forward and innovative.

That said; what happened this time around, Costello? Though there were some strong looks that distilled Costello’s penchant for revealing, yet tasteful red-carpet eveningwear. Overall, this collection was a downgrade from Costello’s brilliant spring 2015 dissertation on red-carpet evening wear.

For inspiration Costello looked to Japanese samurai for his fall 2015 collection. Costello’s architecturally padded shoulders and top notches did conjure images of Japanese samurai; however, that is where the reference began and ended.

Images courtesy of WENN Media

Where last season’s collection was sexy and very revealing, with Costello managing to keep the looks from being a parade of inappropriate, tasteless va va voom moments. Unfortunately, for fall 2015 Costello fell victim to too many skin reveals, slits that almost showed the royal jewels, and very wrong shoe wear that made the whole collection look clunky. And Costello’s choice of fabric was also out of step way below his excellent choices last season.

Costello’s black crop top with full black skirt was a pleasant addition, as well were some of more subdued black gowns. Still, surprisingly there were too many missed opportunities in this outing.

Perhaps, some of the celebrities in the audience were a clue to the customer that Costello is trying to court and maintain as a steady client base. (Hiphop superstar Chris Brown, his entourage, and Christina Milian were in the front row.)

Images courtesy of WENN Media

Though Costello’s spring 2015 collection could have stood its ground on any major red carpet, from the Oscars to the Golden Globes to MTV Awards, this season the look were mostly appropriate for minor red carpet events that go mostly unnoticed.

Go back to what works, Michael Costello, you’ve got the chops; better luck next season.

—William S. Gooch

The Blonds Fall 2015

Zang Toi Fall 2015

Reem Acra Fall 2015

David Tlale Fall 2015

Vivienne Tam Fall 2015

Rochambeau Fall 2015

Bihbu Mohapatra Fall 2015

Christian Siriano Fall 2015

Georgine Fall 2015

Michael Costello Fall 2015

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