Front Row — Page 59

CWST Spring 2016

July 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

One of the things that stood out this inaugural season of New York Fashion Week: Men’s is that menswear designers are creating clothes for a different kind of male consumer, particularly the international traveler. This consumer may be in Dubai one week, the next week in Cologne, the next week in Seoul, Korea. And in between all this commuting for work and/or business, this consumer may take a quick rest and relaxation in some exotic locations as diverse as Rangoon, Ibiza, Sao Paolo or Aspen.

All this shuttling around the world requires clothes that travel easily and need very little maintenance. Also, this world traveler probably doesn’t wear the traditional suit for work or business. Whether he works in the tech industry, new media, entertainment, finance or fashion, his attire has changed. CWST, pronounced “quest,” is creating garments for just this type of male consumer.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

CWST creative directors Derek Buse and Joe Sadler took their guy from sandy beaches to the beauty and desolation of Death Valley. Inspired by “mother earth” in all her extreme terrains, the design duo’s spring collection echoed the polarized opposites of mother earth from her arid desolation to her natural beauty.

What was most appealing about this collection was Buse and Sadler’s evolution of the seersucker suit. Their “new seersucker” is lightweight with a touch stretch, facilitating ease of movement. This is the ideal garment for today’s international male traveler.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Where the collection went a little off kilter was when Buse and Sandler followed the design crowd and incorporated athletic references that came up flat and uninspired. Stay with works guys, the casual feel of your more tailored looks could be your bread and butter!!

—William S. Gooch

Boyswear Spring 2016

July 14, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“Edelweiss, edelweiss, every morning you greet me.” Can a song from the “Sound of Music” inspire a collection? Apparently so, particularly if that collection finds wicked humor in the Manson Murders with a tongue-and cheek nod to the Von Trapp Family Singers. Oh, how dark can you go?

Boyswear’s hippy dippy, psychedelic blend of the 1960s California culture with the “Sound of Music” does have a connecting strand; still, the dark humor of this bizarre combination, though intellectually interesting, creatively missed the mark at times. At the end of the day, intellectual concepts aside, it is always about the clothes. And unfortunately, when the intellectual pursuits of the creative team override the retail viability of the garments, you are mostly left with fashion as art, or in Boywear’s case, Tyrolean-inspired costumes as play clothes. (The Von Trapp Family singers in pajama-like play clothes don’t always translate into wearable garments that consumers might be interested in.)

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, the child-like frivolity of this collection did have some appeal and the garments were well made, though leaning toward a little on the Captain Kangaroo aesthetic. Obviously, the design team at Boyswear is talented. They just need to go back to the drawing board and figure how to take their creative mien and turn their talent into clothes that are more wearable and less of foray into child’s playtime in the sandbox!!

—William S. Gooch

Maria Lucia Hohan Resort 2016

July 1, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

It is very difficult to develop a stronghold in a market where there is oversaturation and hype sometimes based on celebrity-based name recognition or glitz and glam with little substance or retail viability. Everyone wants to be a fashion designer. And whether you a celebrity or reality television personality with the deep pockets to launch a line or that ersatz designer who has a distinct point of view, it all appears so easy and accessible.

Still, the proof is in the pudding. And at the end of the day, what stands out and has staying power are those collections that have something interesting and unique to say that also appeal to a significant demographic. Maria Lucia Hohan is producing those kinds of collections.

Maria Lucia Hohan’s oeuvre is finding that delicate balance between contrasts. By that I mean, delicate and innocent juxtaposed against sensual and seductive, flirty and whimsical contrasting chic and sophisticated. All these adjectives are beautifully expressed in her resort 2016 collection.

Hohan’s ingeniously marries sheer diaphanous fabrications with structure, draping and movement that highlights and illustrates the feminine silhouette without overpowering the flow and sensual beauty of the garment. Color palettes range from soft pastels of pink, carnation, mauve, foam green, and orange to canary, eggshell, tan, and ecru.

Images courtesy of D’Orazio & Company

This is a collection for the consumer that wants whimsical, light garments that evoke fantasy and airy abandon. Well done!!

—William S. Gooch

Theia Resort 2016

June 25, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of JS Group

For inspiration, Theia’s creative director Don O’Neill looked to the work of Bauhaus artist Anni Albers. Albers was known in the US for her designs in ink washes for textiles, and for being one of the first textile designers to have their work presented at the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art. Her woven works include many wall hangings, curtains and bedspreads, mounted “pictorial” images, and mass-produced yard material. Her weavings are often constructed of both traditional and industrial materials, not hesitating to combine jute, paper, and cellophane.

This juxtaposition of industrial and traditional and materials is a focal point of O’Neill’s inspiration. “Her simple and clean use of lines to create textiles and wall hangings, informed a minimal approach to [this Resort 2016] collection. I began with navy blue ribbon embroidered tulle, woven thru with linear micro sequins, which is used throughout the collection. The vibrational aspect of color she used in vivid stripes inspired nautical dresses and her graphic black and whites resonate in a mosaic-tiled embroidery, while white details accentuate clean lines on black dresses,” explains O’Neill.

Images courtesy of JS Group

Though this Resort 2016 collection incorporated current trends of big floral prints, metallic fibers and variations on crop tops, O’Neill stayed true to the brand’s design aesthetic by fusing Albers woven detail influences with Theia’s modern perspective on chic, sophisticated clothing that can appeal to a wide demographic. Standouts in the collection were O’Neill’s nautical blue and silver stripped pocketed skirt with mosaic multi-dimensional weaved crop top and black dress with low decolletage and high slit and white Peter Pan collar.

—William S. Gooch

Ellery Resort 2016

June 13, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For their Resort 2016 collection, the Australian design house Ellery looked to the quintessential late 60s rocker girlfriend archetype, Anita Pallenberg. Pallenberg was girlfriend both to Rolling Stones band members Brian Jones and Keith Richards.

Pallenberg personified the rocker chick of the later 60s and early 1970s with her bell-bottomed jeans, loose blouson tops and slightly androgynous appeal. And though she did have a short career as a model and as a part of Andy Warhol’s “Factory” cabine, historically she more well known as the paramour of Rolling Stone band members and her influence on the band.

Ellery Resort 2016 collection is an amalgam of early 70s chic rocker babe influences paired with androgyny, moody black magic mysticism, and effortless sensuality. As always, creative director Kym Ellery pushes the limit of wearable fashion and fashion as art. But isn’t that what real fashion is supposed to be about?

This is a brand that projects beyond merchandising, giving consumers garments that cannot easily be replaced or duplicated by other brands. Though the brand aesthetic may be not fit a wide demographics fashion palette, much of the pieces in this collection are unique and dissimilar from other collections.

That said, Kym Ellery does stay on the 2016 Resort trend with an early 70s perspective and the ruffle trend that has popped up in many of the resort collection for this season. Detail and silhouettes nod to the nostalgic with ruffles cascading in abundance on crisp shirting. Decolletage tops with deconstructed bell sleeves also added to a 70s homage. Bold topstitching punctuated the tailored styles and juxtaposed the decidedly modern crease front-crop flare suits. And though is a strong androgynous point of view in this outing, this collection is not without its own brand of sensuality evidenced in deep plunging blouses and sheer diaphanous fabrics that reveal much.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Ellery

A monochromatic color palette peppered with evocative burnt orange, burgundy, charcoal and soft blues. And fabrications are majestic with silk velvet, boucle binding, twill suiting shirted jersey and corrugated applique.

—William S. Gooch

Missoni Resort 2016

June 13, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Angela Missoni looked to the French/Russian painter Sonia Delaunay as a reference point for the brand’s Resort 2016 collection. The French-Russian’s work was recently displayed at the exhibition “ Missoni, Art, Color,” detailing the brand’s roots in color, patterns, and shapes.

The marrying of Delaunay’s art—which has it roots in Cubism and its bright fluid spinoff, called Orphism—and Missoni’s design aesthetic is a perfect fit. Angela Missoni filtered Delaunay’s use of primary color though a prism of psychedelic dizzying acid trip patterns that evoked images of late 60s hippies, flower children and the wild music of Jefferson Airplane, The Doors, The Grateful Dead and Pink Floyd.

Though Angela Missoni employed mini dress, bell-bottomed pants, and bell-sleeved shirts that are atypical silhouettes from that period, this collection was not presented as homage to the psychedelic late 60s. There was an injection of youthful whimsy fused with modern concepts that would be appealing to those bohemian types that have a predilection for wild, vibrant color.

From color palettes of aquamarine blues and sea foam greens to violet, salmon and bubblegum pinks, Angela Missoni found a brilliant of bringing all these vibrant colors together in a way that did not distract from the silhouette of the garments. But, isn’t that what the Missoni brand is known for? Though not the taste of every fashionista, for over 51 years the brand repeatedly creates collections that maintain its signature aesthetic while inventing a new and interesting ways to wear its kaleidoscope of color and patterns.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Missoni

Standouts in this outing were and deconstructed orange halter dress , knit pants and jacket in shades of hot pink, yellow, blue, and black, long A-line black dress with rainbow pattern encrusted in the bodice, and white shift dress with painter’s gradient rainbow colors.

—William S. Gooch

Lie Sang Bong Resort 2016

June 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For a first resort collection, Lie Sang Bong’s first outing demonstrated that the Korean designer not only knows his customer base well but also has a keen eye on where resort collections are heading. No longer the sole province of the idle rich or the woman with deep pockets who has the leisure time and cache to island hop or slope surf from exotic locale to ski chalet and needs a wardrobe to match her travels. Resort wear is quickly transitioning into a market that has an appeal that goes beyond dilettantes and trust fund babes.

Lie Sang Bong is hoping to cash in on that consumer. As we are culturally moving away from brick and mortar jobs to vertical office jobs that are global in scope, Lie Sang Bong’s customer could be globetrotting around the world for work and have some extra days off to bask in the sun or shuss down a slope. This collection can appeal to that type of jetsetter.

Though not heavy on the glamour side—and at times a bit clinical—this collection was both utilitarian with elements of sophistication with contrasts on soft and hard, masculine silhouettes juxtaposed against feminine concepts. True to form, Bong’s design aesthetic of minimal, linear simple silhouettes is the undergirding element throughout this collection.

A simple color palette of tan, ocean blue, peach, cream, grey, black, and white is offset with gold and silver jewelry-like embellished details. Several garments feature metal chains, which are removable and can be worn separately as jewelry, such as black jacket with details on the pockets that can be worn as bracelets, and a peach silk dress with a gold neck detail that can be worn as a necklace. Gold and silver zippers are used as subtle accents on several of the jackets and dresses, allowing garments to be worn in a variety of ways. Customized gold and silver buttons are either round or linear, and the majority of garments feature silver chain detail on the interior lining.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Lie Sang Bong

Standouts in this collection include lightweight outerwear, designed with versatility in mind. An ankle-length sleeveless vest in lightweight wool features a long panel of sheer chiffon panels on the bottom and is paired with a pant, creating a relaxed yet sophisticated silhouette. A signature trench coat is offered in a soft, ultra-lightweight tan or lemon-lime nylon.

—William S. Gooch

Malan Breton Bridal Spring 2016

April 19, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Greenfashionreverie.com

If there were a word to describe Malan Breton, that word would be persistent. Hmm, let’s try two words, persistent and courageous.

Since his appearance of “Project Runway” several years ago, Malan Breton is one of the few alumni of the designer competition show that manages to show consistently almost every season. And now Breton has taken on the mantle of bridal wear—which is a natural progression for designers whose ready-to-wear collections are getting some market traction.

For inspiration for his spring 2016 collection, Malan Breton looked to a marriage between Asian elements and Parisian couture with a cinematic twist. “Picture if Audrey Hepburn were to meet James Bond at the altar,” explains Breton in a press release.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the bridal menswear did somewhat reflect a formal James Bond–like persona from say, “Casino Royale,” the bridal gowns were a far cry from anything Audrey Hepburn would don. In fact, most the bridal gowns with the exception of a white floral print ball gown was as far away from bridal as could possibly be imagined. Most of the looks bordered on formal looks for a Washington, DC political affair in the 1960s. And some unfortunate pieces resembled leftover costumes from a modern-day “Gone With the Wind.”

Like most Malan Breton collections, his menswear outshines his women’s wear. And this debut bridal collection was no exception. His collection of tuxedos in silk, cashmere, and summer-weight wool were tailored nicely and would have a certain appeal to that groom who wants to make just as much of statement as the bride or his partner. And several of Breton’s menswear looks would be fitting for same-sex couples.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, for a first crack at bridal, this was not a bad beginning, though not a riveting success. Breton needs to go back to the sketch board and rethink his bridal aesthetic and what he is trying to say to the bridal customer. Expanding bridal to include a larger base—the male consumer—is one thing, but leaving the bride at the altar, so to speak, and not giving her bridal worthy options is unfortunate.

Better luck next time, Malan!!

—William S. Gooch

Christos Bridal Spring 2016 and Kenneth Pool Bridal Spring 2016

April 19, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For spring 2016 Christos creative director Amsale Aberra looked to modern romance as seen through the lens of feminine lightness and whimsical romance. With fabrications ranging from Alencon lace, tulle sprinkled with crystals, and point d’espirit, Aberra set her bride on a path to airy fantasy buttressed by timeless elegance.

This collection is for the young bride that is looking for youthful elegance as seen though a prism of ethereal beauty. And though this collection is focused on a younger demographic, Aberra does have some looks that expands this collection beyond its target audience.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were Aberra’s silk chiffon gown with Chantilly lace hand-beaded bodice in white crystal shimmer, Chantilly lace hand-beaded gown with white crystal shimmer, and silk chiffon gown with off-the shoulder ruffle and beaded lace bodice.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

While Christos is for a younger bridal consumer, Kenneth Pool fits the bill for that consumer looking for more dramatic gowns. And for spring 2016 creative director Amsale Aberra focused the collection on creating drama through exaggerated silhouettes.

This collection centers on ultra glamorous details with fabrications that shimmer and shine. The ultra glam aspects of this collection are made evident on fit-to-flare gowns with white crystal hand beading and silk magnolia with cinched-in waist that has a luxurious sheen.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this spring 2016 outing were Aberra’s fit-to-flare silk magnolia gown with sheer low back and hand-appliqued crystal beading, sheer back ball gown with floral hand-beaded bodice, and strapless ball gown with crystal hand-beaded bodice and layered tulle skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Amsale Bridal Spring 2016

April 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Every season Amsale Aberra finds a way to streamline her aesthetic vision and narrow in on what the modern bride wants. For the Amsale spring 2016 collection, Amsale referenced timeless beauty and understated elegance. This point of view is expressed in clean, simple lines and exquisite tailoring.

Aberra’s approach to simplicity is demonstrated in a minimalist approach that deceptively appears simple but requires great skill. After many years as one the premier bridal designers, Aberra understands that trending features and over-embellished elements are eye catching and make for quick sales. However, sometimes these forced elements don’t facilitate brand loyalty and certainly does not make for heirloom gowns.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

That said; Aberra’s rather restrained approach to this collection does not render the collection without, elegance, beauty or excitement. Aberra takes a simple tee shirt silhouette with low back and when combined with a silk chiffon layered skirt renders this silhouette a modern elegance and panache that reigns supreme over more heavily embellished bridal gowns.

In her simplicity this season, Aberra has discovered the true path to elegance and the heart of the modern bride. And Aberra’s emphasis on highlighting the feminine silhouettes—outside of mermaid silhouettes—in some of the last looks in the collection is evidence of her unique understanding of where bridal design is heading.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were Amsale Aberra’s strapless hand-beaded ball gown with hand-beaded bolero, slim hand-beaded low V-neck gown, soft fit-to-flare hand-beaded gown layered with pleated tulle, fit-to-flare crepe gown with floral and crystal hand beading on low back, and sheer organza gown with Alencon lace hand-appliqued bodice and matching veil.

—William S. Gooch