Front Row — Page 58

Lie Sang Bong Resort 2016

June 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For a first resort collection, Lie Sang Bong’s first outing demonstrated that the Korean designer not only knows his customer base well but also has a keen eye on where resort collections are heading. No longer the sole province of the idle rich or the woman with deep pockets who has the leisure time and cache to island hop or slope surf from exotic locale to ski chalet and needs a wardrobe to match her travels. Resort wear is quickly transitioning into a market that has an appeal that goes beyond dilettantes and trust fund babes.

Lie Sang Bong is hoping to cash in on that consumer. As we are culturally moving away from brick and mortar jobs to vertical office jobs that are global in scope, Lie Sang Bong’s customer could be globetrotting around the world for work and have some extra days off to bask in the sun or shuss down a slope. This collection can appeal to that type of jetsetter.

Though not heavy on the glamour side—and at times a bit clinical—this collection was both utilitarian with elements of sophistication with contrasts on soft and hard, masculine silhouettes juxtaposed against feminine concepts. True to form, Bong’s design aesthetic of minimal, linear simple silhouettes is the undergirding element throughout this collection.

A simple color palette of tan, ocean blue, peach, cream, grey, black, and white is offset with gold and silver jewelry-like embellished details. Several garments feature metal chains, which are removable and can be worn separately as jewelry, such as black jacket with details on the pockets that can be worn as bracelets, and a peach silk dress with a gold neck detail that can be worn as a necklace. Gold and silver zippers are used as subtle accents on several of the jackets and dresses, allowing garments to be worn in a variety of ways. Customized gold and silver buttons are either round or linear, and the majority of garments feature silver chain detail on the interior lining.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Lie Sang Bong

Standouts in this collection include lightweight outerwear, designed with versatility in mind. An ankle-length sleeveless vest in lightweight wool features a long panel of sheer chiffon panels on the bottom and is paired with a pant, creating a relaxed yet sophisticated silhouette. A signature trench coat is offered in a soft, ultra-lightweight tan or lemon-lime nylon.

—William S. Gooch

Malan Breton Bridal Spring 2016

April 19, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Greenfashionreverie.com

If there were a word to describe Malan Breton, that word would be persistent. Hmm, let’s try two words, persistent and courageous.

Since his appearance of “Project Runway” several years ago, Malan Breton is one of the few alumni of the designer competition show that manages to show consistently almost every season. And now Breton has taken on the mantle of bridal wear—which is a natural progression for designers whose ready-to-wear collections are getting some market traction.

For inspiration for his spring 2016 collection, Malan Breton looked to a marriage between Asian elements and Parisian couture with a cinematic twist. “Picture if Audrey Hepburn were to meet James Bond at the altar,” explains Breton in a press release.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the bridal menswear did somewhat reflect a formal James Bond–like persona from say, “Casino Royale,” the bridal gowns were a far cry from anything Audrey Hepburn would don. In fact, most the bridal gowns with the exception of a white floral print ball gown was as far away from bridal as could possibly be imagined. Most of the looks bordered on formal looks for a Washington, DC political affair in the 1960s. And some unfortunate pieces resembled leftover costumes from a modern-day “Gone With the Wind.”

Like most Malan Breton collections, his menswear outshines his women’s wear. And this debut bridal collection was no exception. His collection of tuxedos in silk, cashmere, and summer-weight wool were tailored nicely and would have a certain appeal to that groom who wants to make just as much of statement as the bride or his partner. And several of Breton’s menswear looks would be fitting for same-sex couples.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, for a first crack at bridal, this was not a bad beginning, though not a riveting success. Breton needs to go back to the sketch board and rethink his bridal aesthetic and what he is trying to say to the bridal customer. Expanding bridal to include a larger base—the male consumer—is one thing, but leaving the bride at the altar, so to speak, and not giving her bridal worthy options is unfortunate.

Better luck next time, Malan!!

—William S. Gooch

Christos Bridal Spring 2016 and Kenneth Pool Bridal Spring 2016

April 19, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For spring 2016 Christos creative director Amsale Aberra looked to modern romance as seen through the lens of feminine lightness and whimsical romance. With fabrications ranging from Alencon lace, tulle sprinkled with crystals, and point d’espirit, Aberra set her bride on a path to airy fantasy buttressed by timeless elegance.

This collection is for the young bride that is looking for youthful elegance as seen though a prism of ethereal beauty. And though this collection is focused on a younger demographic, Aberra does have some looks that expands this collection beyond its target audience.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were Aberra’s silk chiffon gown with Chantilly lace hand-beaded bodice in white crystal shimmer, Chantilly lace hand-beaded gown with white crystal shimmer, and silk chiffon gown with off-the shoulder ruffle and beaded lace bodice.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

While Christos is for a younger bridal consumer, Kenneth Pool fits the bill for that consumer looking for more dramatic gowns. And for spring 2016 creative director Amsale Aberra focused the collection on creating drama through exaggerated silhouettes.

This collection centers on ultra glamorous details with fabrications that shimmer and shine. The ultra glam aspects of this collection are made evident on fit-to-flare gowns with white crystal hand beading and silk magnolia with cinched-in waist that has a luxurious sheen.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this spring 2016 outing were Aberra’s fit-to-flare silk magnolia gown with sheer low back and hand-appliqued crystal beading, sheer back ball gown with floral hand-beaded bodice, and strapless ball gown with crystal hand-beaded bodice and layered tulle skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Amsale Bridal Spring 2016

April 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Every season Amsale Aberra finds a way to streamline her aesthetic vision and narrow in on what the modern bride wants. For the Amsale spring 2016 collection, Amsale referenced timeless beauty and understated elegance. This point of view is expressed in clean, simple lines and exquisite tailoring.

Aberra’s approach to simplicity is demonstrated in a minimalist approach that deceptively appears simple but requires great skill. After many years as one the premier bridal designers, Aberra understands that trending features and over-embellished elements are eye catching and make for quick sales. However, sometimes these forced elements don’t facilitate brand loyalty and certainly does not make for heirloom gowns.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

That said; Aberra’s rather restrained approach to this collection does not render the collection without, elegance, beauty or excitement. Aberra takes a simple tee shirt silhouette with low back and when combined with a silk chiffon layered skirt renders this silhouette a modern elegance and panache that reigns supreme over more heavily embellished bridal gowns.

In her simplicity this season, Aberra has discovered the true path to elegance and the heart of the modern bride. And Aberra’s emphasis on highlighting the feminine silhouettes—outside of mermaid silhouettes—in some of the last looks in the collection is evidence of her unique understanding of where bridal design is heading.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were Amsale Aberra’s strapless hand-beaded ball gown with hand-beaded bolero, slim hand-beaded low V-neck gown, soft fit-to-flare hand-beaded gown layered with pleated tulle, fit-to-flare crepe gown with floral and crystal hand beading on low back, and sheer organza gown with Alencon lace hand-appliqued bodice and matching veil.

—William S. Gooch

Anne Barge Bridal Spring 2016

April 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Sophisticated, chic, and classical elegance are a part of the bridal lexicon when it to comes to Anne Barge. Whether she is pulling inspiration for the Golden Age of Hollywood or references classical ballet’s repertoire of well-known classics, Anne Barge is steeped in reinventing traditional, classic silhouettes that will always be a go-to look for most brides.

“The inspiration for this spring 2016 collection was gardens in France. And you can see that in the pastels and transparencies, overlays of very gossamer, filmy fabrics, and light romantic beading. Some silhouettes remind me of the ball gowns of the 1950s—which is always a strong reference point for me,” explained Anne Barge.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Along with all the frothy, whimsical gossamer bridal gowns that evoked romance and fantasy, Barge extolled her affection for the flora of French gardens with lots of lacy floral appliquès. “Since our theme this season was running a French expressionistic painting motif, the floral embellishments worked with our inspiration and brought the whole collection together.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though this season Barge didn’t stray too far from what bridal editors and bridal insiders have come to expect from her, there were some surprises from revealing décolletage to form-fitting, rouched column gowns. “There are more plunging necklines this season because that is what some customers want. However, we are still the same classic, elegant brand, and we will never stray to far from that,” says Barge.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this spring 2016 collection were Anne Barge’s long sleeve column gown with bateau neckline and low sheer back with beaded appliquè back waist, tulle gown with Sabrina neckline of plaid tulle overlaid with architectural beading, scoop neck bodied of fils coupè with organza skirt accented by floral appliquès under bottom hem, strapless mermaid gown of fils coupè accented by covered buttons, and beaded bodice with sleeveless Sabrina neckline with full A-line skirt of organza.

—William S. Gooch

Kelly Faetanini Bridal Spring 2016

April 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In the past few seasons Kelly Faetanini has narrowed in on who her bridal customer is. And her current spring 2016 collection demonstrated that her customer is that young bride who wants classic elegance with a twist.

This collection contained the typical traditional details that we have come to expect from Faetanini, floral appliques, intricate beading, and layers of the diaphanous fabrics of tulle and organza. However, the innovation and fashion-forward elements popped up in this collection in Faetanini’s inclusion of few deep blush colorations and feather-embellished looks.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though Faetanini stayed with some of the continuing trends of cropped tops and pocketed skirts—and in Faetanini’s case her cropped top showed barely any skin—this collection centered primarily on looks that would appeal to Faetanini’s widening demographic.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

There was a wide range of silhouettes in this outing from mermaid silhouettes to fit-to-flare gowns to form-fitting, strapless column gowns. Still, Faetanini was at her best when she added the extra special touches that set her a part from the bridal pack. Her cascading, tiered tulle gown—which was the finale look—was a stunner and demonstrated that when needs be, Faetanini knows how to excite, shock and awe, in a good way!!

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2016

April 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Ines Di Santo outdid herself for this bridal season. Known for her signature mermaid silhouettes and bridal collections that closely resemble European couture craftsmanship of the highest order, for bridal spring 2016 Di Santo extended her bridal aesthetic to include a wider range of bridal customers as well as bridal silhouettes. “Things have to change. So this season we went in a different direction. Every bride has different needs whether it is a silhouette or different hemline lengths, brides have different personalities and envision their wedding day based on their own individuality. We wanted to offer all the brides something within their vision,” explained Di Santo. “A bridal gown is more than just a beautiful dress, it is a personality. That is why we have to have colors and different textures. The bridal gown should look like an exquisite painting.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“I am inspired by the beautiful tree in the background, summer, spring, colors, birds, butterflies, flowers, the color of the blue sky and the sun sparkling. That is what inspires me,” Di Santo confessed. And this inspiration played out in an exquisite collection that embraced in Chantilly lace gowns in watercolor shades of blue, champagne and pink. The delicacy of butterfly wings was expressed in intricate embroidery detailed in vine-like motifs unfurling on bodices and full diaphanous skirts of organza and tulle.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Additionally, Di Santo also included several removable overskirts. “Removable skirts can be very dramatic in their own way. They can be light and dance,” detailed Di Santo.

Although this spring 2016 collection was a cacophony of frothy bridal concoctions and dramatic intricate details—particularly Di Santo’s show stopping final look, a fitted corset ball gown with detachable train, accented with handmade silk organza cherry blossoms—Di Santo have several gowns that were less dramatic and simple in scope, yet eye catching none the less. There was something in this collection for perhaps almost every type of bride.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Di Santo did stay true to some of her signature silhouettes; corseted gowns that flowed dramatically into faux bustles, and a few mermaid silhouettes with heavily sequined and beaded bodices. Still, this collection was a defining departures from many of her signature looks and demonstrated that Di Santo is proactively seeking a wider bridal demographic.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection were Di Santo’s empire cut silk caddice gown accessorized with crystal beaded illusion neckline with train extending from rouched lower back, A-line sleeveless silhouette with illusion neckline and skirt finished in unique layers of lace, strapless ball gown with sweetheart neckline layered in Chantilly and organza and finished with Alencon hemline and bias organza detail, dramatic ball gown with deep V, cap sleeve bodice with scattered crystals, and embellished natural waist ball gown with layers of embroidered and paliette tulle.

—William S. Gooch

Oleg Cassini Bridal Fall 2015

April 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Oleg Cassini

Leave it to Oleg Cassini to take a different path than most bridal designers. While most bridal collections are presented a year in advance, contrary to popular trend Cassini’s bridal collections correlate to ready-to-wear collections; only six months in advance.

And this market point of view seems to work for the iconic brand. If a bride is familiar with Oleg Cassini’s classic, elegant bridal designs, she doesn’t need a year to make up her mind. There will probably be no vacillating between Vera Wang to Monique Lhuillier to Reem Acra to Theia. The Oleg Cassini bride no what works for her, and Cassini is her designer of choice.

Images courtesy of Oleg Cassini

For fall 2015, the iconic brand looked to the most important person in a bridal ceremony, the Bride. This collection celebrates the Bride by encapsulating her joy and rapture in opulent handcrafted embroidery details on sculpted silhouettes that are lightly dusted with shimmery crystals and pearls that reflect the light. Layers of softly colored fabrics blended with unique lace patterns combine to create a magical ethereal effect.

Images courtesy of Oleg Cassini

Though the looks in this fall 2015 collection are solidly classic and traditional, there were some modern touches and trends to can appeal to that bride who is looking for sophisticated looks with a hint of fashion-forward modernity. Cassini carried over the cape trend from fall 2015 ready-to-wear collection with his floor-length cape of lace and crystals. And Cassini’s lacy, silk taffeta pocketed-skirt gown was fresh, modern , lending a hint of casual elegance.

Images courtesy of Oleg Cassini

Bravo Cassini!!

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Spring 2016

April 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For spring 2016, Theia creative director Don O’Neill looked to the whimsical Art Noveau illustrations of Danish illustrator Kay Rasmus Nielsen. Nielsen’s work was influenced by the Belle Époque Era. Nielsen also illustrated such books as, “Fairy Tales by Hans Christian Anderson,” “Hansel and Gretel,” and “Other Stories of the Brothers Grimm.”

Inspired by Nielsen’s fairytale-like artwork, for spring 2016 O’Neill takes his bride on a journey through an illuminated enchanted forest of Victorian dancing princesses. His fairytale bride is donned in weightless transparent embroideries of cobweb, fine Chantilly lace, butterflies fluttering on silk organza, Art Noveau–inspired, hand beaded gown with bodices using 21^st Century 3-D technology.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The Belle Époque influences are evidenced in lacy, high-collared gowns and lace embellished, tulle sleeves. Although this collection does harken back to a more refined, restrained era, O’Neill successfully elevates this collection be adding touches of modernity expressed in crop tops, some plunging necklines, a digitally enhanced lace shirt dress, 3-D technology, and a couple of pant combinations. Additionally, O’Neill’s youthful take on the Belle Époque era keeps this collection current, effervescent and fashion forward. O’Neill’s infusion of color demonstrated in pastel floral prints and colorful digital illustration on silk organza also adds innovation and panache to this outing, particularly when the standard color du jour is white, blush, ecru and variations of white.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though this outing has a huge variety of silhouettes from traditional ball gowns to mermaid and fit-to-flare silhouettes to crop top numbers, pantsuits and the ever-trending capes—recently seen in fall 2015 ready-to-wear collections—, this collection is not as over the place as the range of silhouettes and trends would suggest. O’Neill uniquely understands that the modern bride has eclectic tastes and does not stand by brand loyalty. Appealing to this eclecticism is necessary to expand any brand’s demographic, particularly in an oversaturated bridal market.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this collection—and there were many—were O’Neill’s ivory re-embroidered Chantilly lace cape over sheath gown, ivory hand embroidered slip dress with tulle wisps, Nielsen-illustrated silk organza gown, pearl white pant suit, ivory laser-etched satin burnout ball skirt with re-embroidered Chantilly lace strapless crop top, silk organza shirt dress over hand-embroidered bra with silk pants, and white 3-D corset over silk satin face georgette ball skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Skingraft Fall 2015

February 21, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Since first showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) a few seasons ago, Skingraft has expanded their design aesthetic beyond the skateboarder chic aesthetic. Though this design perspective in still prevalent in their collections, particularly in their menswear looks, the brand is not embracing points of view that solidly placing them in that constellation of new fashion design brands that has found that marriage between retail viability and cutting-edge design.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Inspired by young nomads trekking through the Peruvian mountains in search of new adventures and horizons, as well as the stories of alien activity—remember, legend has it that beings from another universe created Machu Picchu— designer Jonny Cota focused this collection on more wearable pieces that might appeal to that consumer beyond the skateboarder chic fashion set. That said; surprisingly there were more women’s look in this collection than in previous outings.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The Peruvian “survivalist” nomad theme of this collection was heavily expressed in the outerwear. From Peruvian-inspired ponchos and shearling coats to leather bombers and buttoned-down, oversized jackets, Cota revealed an urban street savvy that was missing in some of Skingraft’s previous collections. And instead of just going with the current cape trend, seen in so many collections this season, Cota opted to go for his take on capes and caplets by including ponchos in this collection.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the brand is aiming for more retail viability, Cota in this outing did not stray to far from signature looks that the brand is known for; which is a good thing. Unlike some brands that strive for consumer appeal and loos their signature stamp, with just a few runway looks industry professionals and consumers can still easily identify a Skingraft garment. Standout looks in the collection are the leather-embossed tuxedo jacket with extended crouch pants, burgundy and black stripped wool poncho, leather and wool stripped bomber jacket, and tan and white stripped leather stripped belted jacket.

—William S. Gooch