Front Row — Page 57

Leanne Marshall Spring 2016

September 11, 2015 by admin 2 Comments

Leanne Marshall is one of the few “Project Runway” alumnae that present collections consistently at New York Fashion Week. With the exception of Christian Siriano, Malan Breton, and Leanne Marshall most “Project Runway” alumnae have faded into obscurity. But not Leanne Marshall.

The biggest question on most fashion industry professionals’ minds is if Leanne Marshall has evolved creatively past her flora and fauna aesthetic. Not entirely. But that is necessarily a bad thing. And the evolution of Marshall’s flora and fauna oeuvre was evident in her spring 2016 collection.

Inspired by nature and water waves, Leanne Marshall has grown her design aesthetic to include garments that are more wearable. Still, at times the collection had the provincial look of designers who design for a very limited audience. Leanne Marshall’s customer is that woman who likes airy, diaphanous garments that express freedom of movement and an ethereal, fairy kingdom. The question that begs an answer is where to wear some of these fairy spirit clothes.

That question aside; many of the looks in this collection are beautiful and well made, with the flowing gowns, perhaps, having more retail value than the shorter dresses. And though of pieces bordered on high-end lingerie, Marshall’s design inspiration did shine through, with her last piece, a tiered green foliage dress being the high point of the collection.

Image courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection were Marshall’s black silk twill with bonded mesh bust detail, royal silk organza drew with silk organza draping, blue and ivory ombre silk organza short-sleeved dress with navy silk mesh drape, and seafoam silk organza bodice with texturized draping and ivory silk gazaar skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Edmund Ooi Spring 2016

July 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For his debut collection in New York City during New York Fashion Week; Men’s, Edmund Ooi looked to images of the European Space Agency (ESA) shot by Edgar Martins. By researching the technical aspects of space suits, Ooi chose to use fabrications of technical silk, reflective materials, techno lurex, knits, laminated jersey and webbing.

“I’ve been living in a dream world for a long time which is the root of my love for science fiction. Every season I try to get away from science fiction, but it keeps coming back. So, this season I was inspired by space suits,” explains Edmund Ooi. “ This whole collection started from looking at photos of Edgar Martins’ photos of the European Space Agency. I just love the colors in those images.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This “bondage in space” collection with its outré style projections was not without some wearable pieces. And Ooi’s narrow-suited jackets with carefully placed webbing, while not the choice of a wide male demographic, certainly would be appealing to that downtown fashionisto who is looking for shock-value clothing that will set him a part from other ravenous style hounds.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“I mix a lot of soft and hard fabrics and textures in this collection. I am incorporating wider mesh fabric that I marry with laminated jersey rendering has an interesting, striking texture. These two fabric combinations really support and help express my experimental side,” details Ooi.

Though Ooi’s fashion point of view may be too experimental and avant garde for some fashion industry professionals, his fashion next perspective brought a much needed futuristic slant to New York Fashion Week: Men’s spring 2016 collections that often bordered too much on the pedantic and men’s fashion as usual plateau. If you are going to outré and crazy, take the risk and hold nothing back and do it the way Ooi’s is doing it!! Of course, have something to say. And Edmund Ooi has a lot of worthwhile things to say!!

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The standout looks in this collection were mostly Ooi’s jackets but his innovative take on pants with overlays of disparate fabrications was interesting as well. Standout pieces in particular were Ooi’s grey jacket with white shorts and black knit top, red tank with mesh long sleeves and beige trousers, and beige stripe coat with white underwear.

—William S. Gooch

John Varvatos Spring 2016

July 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With John Varvatos it is always about rock n’ roll and since the start of his brand in the late 90s, his love of that musical genre is the central theme season after season. In fact, it truly is the signature look of his clothes.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

What is amazing about Varvatos is that time after time he continue his love affair with 70s rock n’ roll as expressed in the styling and look of his clothes and manages to create collections that seem current, fresh and in vogue with what contemporary men want to wear. Interestingly, his collections—though homages to the iconic CBGB’s era of where his Bowery store is in the vicinity of—never seems dated or just a reflection of that bygone era.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

I suppose the reason Varvatos is able to bring vitality and effervescent to his sometimes all-consuming predilection has a lot to do with the styling, the cut of his garments, and this season, in particular, his choice of models. Surprisingly, this season Varvatos’ choice of model was a bit older and not as slender as seen in some previous seasons.

Also, his choice of reference this season Southern California early 70s nightclub life—think rock n’ roll haunts in Laurel Canyon which could have housed Jefferson Airship, Led Zeppelin, Fleetwood Mac, maybe even Pink Floyd—mixed with Varvatos’ distillation on a pinstripe aesthetic made this collection take on a look of modern, yet hip, sophistication and sharpness.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Where in previous outings, Varvatos’ collections rendered up new perspectives on rock n’ roll chic. However, this time around Varvotos’ integration of the pinstripe aesthetic elevated his man from just the guy who resembles and loves that British, David Bowiesque sleekness, but also is an international jetsetter who has an affection for looks that extol good construction and great fabrics.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In a nutshell, this collection moved the Varvatos guy from rock n’ roll fiefdom to the imperial courts of rock n’ roll legends. And though the color palette was somewhat somber compared to other outing, Varvatos’ muted colors and neutrals gave his dandier looks weight, crispness, and more wearability.

—William S. Gooch

Nautica Swimwear Spring 2016

July 16, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With all the hype around this inaugural season of New York Fashion Week: Men’s a lot of menswear designers struggled to get collections ready in time. The CFDA only officially announced this inaugural season in mid-February which may have caused put some menswear designers in a panic; particularly those that do not show in Europe during the third week of June. This was not the case for the household brand, Nautica.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Instead of showing a full spring/summer 2016 collection, the iconic brand chose to only present their spring 2016 swimwear. Since Nautica hardly ever shows in Europe, by only presenting their swimwear they were able to be a part of New York Fashion Week: Men’s without rushing to throw some looks together that did do the brand justice like some other menswear design houses.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For the spring 2016 swimwear collection, the sea inspired the Nautica design team as it relates to urban terrains. Modern architectural icons of the New York skyline become nautical details. Paired with updated sportswear pieces, swim takes on the energy and sophistication of a day in the city or a trip to Montauk.

Though one would have like to something more than swim trunks and a few sweaters thrown in for good measure, Nautica’s classic designs as it relates to nautical themes never disappoints. And putting these trunks on top male models is always a plus.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks were Nautica’s neon white mercerized cotton Breton Sweater with neon white stretch nylon riptide print-board short, jet navy mercanized cotton Breton sweater with steel grey stretch mélange board short, and taxi cab yellow nylon Fisherman jacket with carbon black nylon Mondrian print board short.

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Spring 2016

July 16, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Perry Ellis has gone through a round table of creative directors since the death of its eponymous founder almost thirty years ago. Of all the designers who have been at the helm of this iconic American menswear brand, perhaps, Michael Maccari’s is the most fashion-forward/next menswear designer that can take this iconic brand into if not the next century, definitely into the next decade.

At a perfunctory glance of the Perry Ellis spring 2016 collection, very little seems to have changed. There were the typical classic Perry Ellis suits, American sportswear classics that don’t necessarily break the mold or reposition the iconic brand. However, at a deeper level this is almost a new Perry Ellis. And the evolution is much needed.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In a menswear season where designers really didn’t have much to say or what they said probably fell on industry professionals’ deaf ears, Maccari demonstrated in this outing that not only does he have the ability to keep the conversation going about Perry Ellis, but he is writing a new script based on innovative fabrics and a unique understanding of how the modern man wants to dress.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

His modern man is not afraid of color; in fact, he embraces it. He is comfortable enough in his masculinity to experiment with softer silhouettes. Maccari’s man also understands how to embrace trends without being overpowered by them. (Maccari’s ingenious way of incorporating the active wear trend by putting workout leggings under shorts was something short of brilliant.)

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

And above all, the new Perry Ellis guy is still sophisticated, chic, and also current and youthful. This was the significant key to the success of this collection. Maccari was deft at expanding the Perry Ellis oeuvre into a new distillation on hipness; youth and vitality without abandoning the signature look.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

There were too many fantastic looks in this spring 2016 collection to just call out a few. However, for the sake of our readers Fashion Reverie will oblige, with the iridescent suits and jackets being at the top of our lists.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Our standout picks include Maccari’s iridescent waffle suit in Khaki, silk blend striped shirt in white with navy track pants, sheer ref jacket in copper with striped suit and compression pants in copper, hand-knit Intarsia sweater in navy with bonded indigo jogger pants, and linen suit in gold rush with silk blend plaid white shirt compression and gym pants in gold rush.

—William S. Gooch

Michael Bastian Spring 2016

July 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Inspired by the California Bel Air set of the Golden Hollywood era, Michael Bastian paid homage to that particular Southern California enclave that made Tinsel Town tick. The Hollywood of powerful mover and shakers, that set of big time agents and studio heads and the way that particular set wore classic American sportswear.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With Michael Bastian you never really get innovative fabric choice and avant-garde silhouettes. Bastian is not a next menswear designer in that sense of futuristic projections. With Bastian is always about the styling and reassembling classic American sportswear in a way that makes you reconsider how to wear that genre.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This outing was no different. Still, there was some fashion-forward, re-positioning of classic ideas. Camouflage, banana leafed-print sweaters and jackets with white cuffed shorts, polo shirts patch worked in squares to render a crocodile effect, and powdery rose tuxedo jackets were all a reinterpretation of an American preppy aesthetic. Though there were no sweaters tied or draped over the shoulders, we all got the inference.

For good measure, Bastian threw in a few women’s looks for the first time. And it worked. Especially, when Fatima Said is one of the female model additions!!

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For an Easterner, Bastian was very successful in mimicking, and in some cases satirically poking fun at, the Bel Air set. But mimicry aside, Bastian, as always, put together a collection that is current, enervating, and very retail friendly.

Your loyal customers and some new converts will be pleased. Bravo, bravo, Bastian!!

—William S. Gooch

Parke and Ronen Spring 2016

July 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“Let the sun shine, let the sunshine in, the sun shine in.” For spring 2016, the design duo of Parke and Ronen not only let the sun’s rays in, they also allowed the sun’s enervating rays bless a collection that was light, at times floral, effervescent and highly accessible.

Sunshine and lollipops aside, this “Age of Aquarius” collection harkened back to the more frolicky, whimsical side of the flower child era. No peace signs, no Black Panther fists, no nuclear disarmament symbols. This was all sexual revolution, love, and pass the peace pipe.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

And as expected, Parke and Ronen always employ male model eye candy. However, this was far from the focus of this collection as it has been in some previous outings. Though the show ended with the models in briefs, this typical denouement was more icing on the cake than the perspective of this collection.

There were no innovative male silhouettes or groundbreaking textile fabrications, but with Parke and Ronen, there never really is. Most of the clothes found in this collection could probably be hunted down in some well-equipped vintage shops. Include the Birkenstocks and you have a “Hair” peace pipe, ashram party!!

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, Parke and Ronen were successful in rendering up that late 60s, early 70s hippie vibe without created a collection that look too dated and dusty. And where some collections this season stayed away from bright colors, concentrating their color palettes in neutrals or a muted color spectrum, Parke and Ronen’s spring 2016 collection was a dissertation in how to match disparate color combinations without the garments looking like a miasma of crazy colors thrown on a wall.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in this collection were Parke and Ronen’s tank top in Idlewild Army Tricot with loungeshort in light grey heather cotton French terry, tank top in orange multi-stripe cotton/lycra rib knit with trouser in blue paisley stretch cotton sateen, tank top in blue and white stripe cotton jersey with trouser in dark blue bandana print cotton chambray, and ombre jean in white and lapis.

—William S. Gooch

Asaf Ganot Spring 2016

July 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“I love Brazil, I want to be Brazilian. I am jealous of their attitude,” exclaims Asaf Ganot. Well, that in a nutshell explains Ganot’s penchant for all things Brazilian. And that infatuation with Brazil is aptly expressed in his men’s spring 2016 collection.

“Brazil is all about mixtures; mixes in culture, climate, food, races, people, every thing, and those mixes bounces off of each other. You will find those mixes in this collection. You will find a lot of color blocking in this collection, but I mix a lot of nappas with suedes and different textures that gives the collection a refreshing approach. I am very dark, so I like fall/winter dark palettes, but referencing Brazil brought levity to this spring collection,” detailed Ganot.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Not only was the cultural smorgasbord of Brazil expressed in Ganot’s choice of fabrication and color palette, but also in his choice of models. From Nordic supermodels Sebastian Suave and Tobias Sorenson to black supermodels Salieu Jalloh and Henry Watkins to Pacific Islander supermodel Paolo Roldan, Ganot’s expansive inclusive stance reflected all the ethnic types found in Brazil.

Ganot is a master when it comes to combining fabrications. In this outing Ganot successfully mixes soft neoprene with denim, suede with nappa, and leather with suede details. And true to form, Ganot has managed to inject a messy, rough edge, deconstructed approach into a collection that is otherwise slick and streamlined.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“All the fabrics I use are made in Italy. The denim jumpsuit [in this collection] is a Brazilian print and instead of doing it so basic, I ended up tailoring it, so it more a bunker jumpsuit … “I also love the messiness of raw edges. You can see in some of the jackets there is a paper yarn in the edging that facilitates the crinkled, messiness that I adore and gives the collection of feel of luxury,” explains Ganot.

That said; with Ganot each menswear collection is focused primarily on the outerwear, and in this outing his jackets in particular. Though there is a range of styles expressed in his jackets, the overwhelming theme is the hip guy from the 1980s.

Though this collection is minimally subtle, the elaborate artisanal details elevates the clothing to appeal to the jet setting guy who is strives for luxurious simplicity. “My guy is the affluent man who is active and always traveling. He is a very Daniel Craig kind of guy who can be impeccably dressed when he needs to be and casually dressed out of choice or necessity. This collection is for him.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection are Ganot’s white leather racer jacket with grey suede details, white nappa leather biker jacket with charcoal suede lapel, ink blue cool tuxedo with black leather trim, beige/black croc-embossed leather biker jacket, and black leather laser-cut moto jacket with black leather laser-cut shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Duckie Brown Spring 2016

July 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Fashion Editor icon Diana Vreeland believed that the fashion industry should predict and produce what the market wants even before consumers know they want it. A wonderful concept, if it can be put into practice. Unfortunately, with the corporatization of the fashion industry more often consumers are left with pedestrian repeats of what they already in their wardrobes rather than fashion-forward next garments.

Duckie Brown’s approach to fashion has always been outré with creative directors Stephen Cox and Daniel Silver bravely marching to the beat of their own drum. This spring 2016 collection was no exception.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

From the cheers in the audience after the show Cox and Silver obviously have a loyal fan base. That said; in this particular outing, though fashion forward, many of the pieces in this collection were far from wearable and would possibly appeal only to a small niche menswear consumer base.

Though there were some beautiful diaphanous men’s shirts, or should I say blouses, in the collection, the fashion-forward projection was way outside of what even, perhaps, Vreeland would predict fits the projected design palette of the fashionable male consumer. The organza shirts were very beautiful and I am sure there is a male consumer for this particular type of aesthetic, but the oversized trousers just looked lost on the very slender male models with many of them tripping over the length of the trousers. Still, menswear designers like Cox and Silver with a oeuvre for the unusual are so important to the menswear market. And though in this particular outing, the collection was uneven and barely wearable, Cox and Silver should not lose heart and continue on their design trajectory.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection were the design duo’s silk half neck hoody, black cap sleeve jacket with black trousers, and navy satin chiffon Harrington jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Concept Korea: Ordinary People Spring 2016

July 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For his men’s spring 2016 inspiration Ordinary People creative director Jang hyeong cheol looked to sporty classics reimagined through the lens of contemporary fashion. This “Active Maestro” sporty reflection on classic men’s suits seeks to combine the two themes of classicism and the sporty lifestyle that the contemporary male consumer now leads.

Jang heyong cheol has taken the typical classic suit and given this silhouette more volume, encompassing more ease of movement and comfort. This new roomier, restrained volume silhouette is often paired with loose tee shirts and cuffed short pants.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Interestingly, many menswear designers this season incorporated lounge wear into their more sportier or active wear themed collections which was expressed in roomier long overcoats and blousy pants made of diaphanous fabrics or long oversized tee shirts in sheer fabrics—seen in the collections of Fingers Crossed and Duckie Brown. This loungewear as active wear trend sometimes was also supported by playful prints and colors—as seen in Ricardo Seco’s collection.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

To date Ordinary People is the only menswear collection this season that has gotten the loungewear as active wear correct. Jang hyeong cheol take on this new trend is consumer friendly and looks like an appropriate wearable daywear look. By marrying his loungewear as active wear with sneakers and sport sandals combined with his restrained volume classic suits, Jang hyeong has created a collection that is fresh, fashion forward and is a new projection on where contemporary menswear is heading.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The color palette in this spring 2016 collection ranges from midnight blue, navy blue, smoke blue to white, cold, sage green, red and carmine. Fabrications include summer wool, silk faille, cotton, silk cady, denim, modal, and light tweed.

Standout looks in the collection include Jang heyong cheol’s oversized striped tee shirts in navy blue and white with sequined embellished stripes, smoke blue striped bomber jacket with red shorts, and smoke blue pinstriped lounge coat with matching shorts.

—William S. Gooch