Libertine Spring 2016

 Libertine_Spring_2016Who wears these clothes? That question is asked a lot about most clothes that are presented at fashion weeks around the world. It’s obvious who wears household brand names like Michael Kors, DVF, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Kate Spade, Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, and other popular American fashion brands. Either it’s those celebrities and well-heeled consumers with deep pockets or those die-in-the-wool fashionistas that have the latest from top American designers.

But the question still begs who wears the collections of not so well know designers that push the proverbial fashion envelope. And in particular, who wears Libertine? Especially, who will wear Libertine’s spring 2016 collection, a collection that focused more on pop art/street vibe than wearable outside of members of you own fashion tribe?

Collages349Libertine’s creative director Jonathan Hartig is one of the few innovative minds in the fashion industry that understands how to bring freshness, sensuality and a certain amount of chicness to street wear.  Twenty years ago there was plethora of fashion talent tapping into street wear and translating that exuberance and rebellious angst into garments that reflected that expression of youthful abandon and agitation.

Collages350Hartig still has that ability and he has facilitated his penchant for mixing colors, patterns and embellishments into a wonderfully dissertation on street fashion seen through the lens of 2016. Though some of the collection harked back to hip hop of the 1990s with big gold chains, oversized sweat shirts and prints with big colorful, emblazoned numbers, this collection was solidly a Hartig concept.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, the question begs who will wear these garments? The consumer who is confident, not afraid of taking risks, and who is a big fan of street culture; this is the consumer for this spring 2016 collection.

—William S. Gooch

Giulietta Spring 2016

Collages334For spring 2016 creative director Sophia Sizzi was inspired by the futuristic pairing of athletic wear and the geometric, space age designs of Andre Courreges. With tennis being the primary sport of reference for this collection, Sizzi successfully married her oeuvre of graphic, color-blocked panels of bold colors, box pleats, geometric lattice prints, and cabochons to produce a collection that gives a nod to 1960s aesthetic of Courreges while still managing to be current and fashion forward.

Giulietta_Spring_2016Athletic street wear as daywear that can transition into evening wear has been a trend that has carried from fall 2015 collections to spring 2016 collections; however, Sizzi is one of the few designers that understands how to craft this continuing trend into looks that are sophisticated while still projecting a casual approach to modernity. And this casual projection is not stilting by the chic sophistication of the collection.  Looks were still feminine, and in some cases, majestic with Sizzi’s unique injection of youthful vibrancy.

Collages335Though every look in this collection was not a bona fide hit, overall Sizzi was successful at producing a collection that was more retail friendly than some of the brand’s previous outings. And though she continued her signature aesthetic of bold color-blocked panels and geometric shapes, this spring 2016 collection saw the evolution of the Sizzi’s aesthetic expressed in looks that were more fresh and consumer-friendly.

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By adding Cabochon embellishments to many of garments in this collection, Sizzi elevated this collection from what could have been just a designer’s homage to Courreges. Instead, Sizzi subtlety added details—and with the Cabochons, not so shyly—that helped this collection be what all good collections should be, now and next.

Images courtesy of John Aquno/wwd.com

Images courtesy of John Aquno/wwd.com

Beyond the incredible jumpsuits in the collection, other standouts were Sizzi’s black and white stripes with Cabochon embellished dress, royal blue and grass bodysuit with shite and black-striped culotte, black Cabochon embellished mini dress, encrusted collar black gown, and buttercup Cabochon embellished gown.

—William S. Gooch

alice+olivia Spring 2016

Collages434Spring/summer 2016 fashions always include white in their collections.

At alice +olivia creative director Stacy Bendet added the boldest splashes of color, stripes, and huge flowered patterns. These combinations of whites, and the color of sand only made for a fresh take on spring/summer 2016.

Collages433Bendet’s long draping of dresses will be very wearable for a large range of clients and demographics. The oversized tops with short skirts give a fun look for everyday wear.

Alice_Olivia_Spring_2016The intertwine and mix of Southwestern Spanish elongated palazzo pants and long vests in the brightest of colors paired with whites and desert sands add to a very cheerful collection.  Another addition to her collection is the black and white striped pantsuit which of course elongates the body.

Images courtesy of John Aquino/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of John Aquino/fashionreverie.com

The collection includes long and short dresses, and gowns that Stacy Bendet calls “Goddess Gowns”  These dresses can be worn day and evening which makes alice +olivia a very imaginative and accessible brand. The collection is easy to comprehend and can be combined with other looks in her line.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Nicholas K Spring 2016

 Collages315Though Nicholas K was true to their aesthetic of nomadic chic for their spring 2016 collection, in this outing the design duo of Christopher and Nicholas Kunz created a collection that was more utilitarian and for the most part more wearable. Wearable and utilitarian are not words that easily come to mind when pondering Nicholas K, but the potential for this evolution has always been there and this season the design duo realized this potentiality.

NicholasK_Spring_2016Calling their spring 2016 collection ‘Terminal Velocity,’ inspired by aerial flight, the design duo employed an aesthetic that conjured up images of aeronautics, buoyancy, and lightness of being. Additionally, this concept paired aerial motifs with restriction, evidenced in cross-bodied ropes and leather straps clasped with metal hardware that suggests, perhaps, that for Nicholas K aerial flight is not without its constraints.

Collages313Though Christopher and Nicholas Kunz used billowy silk-like nylons, the design and construction suggested parachute material. And a bit of modern innovation was injected into the collection, particularly with the hooded looks rendering a projection toward space travel or environmentally protective gear.

Collages314While in previous outings the brand’s nomadic chic aesthetic combined with voluminous layering made some collections look very encumbered and weighted down, this season the layering produced a more ethereal weightlessness that matched the overall theme of the collection. And the sense of ease movement of this collection and at times lighter color palette buoyed the retail viability of the clothes.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

It is been suggested by fashion pundits that Nicholas K with all of its layering and nomad chic point of view is a brand that translates well to a fall/winter design aesthetic. That may be true; however, with this collection Christopher and Nicholas have proved the fashion pundits wrong, creating a collection that is not only worthy of temperate climates but also points the design duo in the right direction.

—William S. Gooch

Leanne Marshall Spring 2016

 Leanne_Marshall_Spring_2016Leanne Marshall is one of the few “Project Runway” alumnae that present collections consistently at New York Fashion Week. With the exception of Christian Siriano, Malan Breton, and Leanne Marshall most “Project Runway” alumnae have faded into obscurity. But not Leanne Marshall.

Collages369The biggest question on most fashion industry professionals’ minds is if Leanne Marshall has evolved creatively past her flora and fauna aesthetic. Not entirely. But that is necessarily a bad thing. And the evolution of Marshall’s flora and fauna oeuvre was evident in her spring 2016 collection.

Collages368Inspired by nature and water waves, Leanne Marshall has grown her design aesthetic to include garments that are more wearable. Still, at times the collection had the provincial look of designers who design for a very limited audience. Leanne Marshall’s customer is that woman who likes airy, diaphanous garments that express freedom of movement and an ethereal, fairy kingdom. The question that begs an answer is where to wear some of these fairy spirit clothes.

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That question aside; many of the looks in this collection are beautiful and well made, with the flowing gowns, perhaps, having more retail value than the shorter dresses. And though of pieces bordered on high-end lingerie, Marshall’s design inspiration did shine through, with her last piece, a tiered green foliage dress being the high point of the collection.

Image courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Image courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection were Marshall’s black silk twill with bonded mesh bust detail, royal silk organza drew with silk organza draping, blue and ivory ombre silk organza short-sleeved dress with navy silk mesh drape, and seafoam silk organza bodice with texturized draping and ivory silk gazaar skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Edmund Ooi Spring 2016

 

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For his debut collection in New York City during New York Fashion Week; Men’s, Edmund Ooi looked to images of the European Space Agency (ESA) shot by Edgar Martins. By researching the technical aspects of space suits, Ooi chose to use fabrications of technical silk, reflective materials, techno lurex, knits, laminated jersey and webbing.

“I’ve been living in a dream world for a long time which is the root of my love for science fiction. Every season I try to get away from science fiction, but it keeps coming back. So, this season I was inspired by space suits,” explains Edmund Ooi. “ This whole collection started from looking at photos of Edgar Martins’ photos of the European Space Agency. I just love the colors in those images.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This “bondage in space” collection with its outré style projections was not without some wearable pieces. And Ooi’s narrow-suited jackets with carefully placed webbing, while not the choice of a wide male demographic, certainly would be appealing to that downtown fashionisto who is looking for shock-value clothing that will set him a part from other ravenous style hounds.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“I mix a lot of soft and hard fabrics and textures in this collection. I am incorporating wider mesh fabric that I marry with laminated jersey rendering has an interesting, striking texture. These two fabric combinations really support and help express my experimental side,” details Ooi.

Though Ooi’s fashion point of view may be too experimental and avant garde for some fashion industry professionals, his fashion next perspective brought a much needed futuristic slant to New York Fashion Week: Men’s spring 2016 collections that often bordered too much on the pedantic and men’s fashion as usual plateau. If you are going to outré and crazy, take the risk and hold nothing back and do it the way Ooi’s is doing it!! Of course, have something to say. And Edmund Ooi has a lot of worthwhile things to say!!

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The standout looks in this collection were mostly Ooi’s jackets but his innovative take on pants with overlays of disparate fabrications was interesting as well. Standout pieces in particular were Ooi’s grey jacket with white shorts and black knit top, red tank with mesh long sleeves and beige trousers, and beige stripe coat with white underwear.

—William S. Gooch

John Varvatos Spring 2016

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With John Varvatos it is always about rock n’ roll and since the start of his brand in the late 90s, his love of that musical genre is the central theme season after season. In fact, it truly is the signature look of his clothes.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

What is amazing about Varvatos is that time after time he continue his love affair with 70s rock n’ roll as expressed in the styling and look of his clothes and manages to create collections that seem current, fresh and in vogue with what contemporary men want to wear. Interestingly, his collections—though homages to the iconic CBGB’s era of where his Bowery store is in the vicinity of—never seems dated or just a reflection of that bygone era.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

I suppose the reason Varvatos is able to bring vitality and effervescent to his sometimes all-consuming predilection has a lot to do with the styling, the cut of his garments, and this season, in particular, his choice of models. Surprisingly, this season Varvatos’ choice of model was a bit older and not as slender as seen in some previous seasons.

Also, his choice of reference this season Southern California early 70s nightclub life—think rock n’ roll haunts in Laurel Canyon which could have housed Jefferson Airship, Led Zeppelin, Fleetwood Mac, maybe even Pink Floyd—mixed with Varvatos’ distillation on a pinstripe aesthetic made this collection take on a look of modern, yet hip, sophistication and sharpness.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Where in previous outings, Varvatos’ collections rendered up new perspectives on rock n’ roll chic. However, this time around Varvotos’ integration of the pinstripe aesthetic elevated his man from just the guy who resembles and loves that British, David Bowiesque sleekness, but also is an international jetsetter who has an affection for looks that extol good construction and great fabrics.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In a nutshell, this collection moved the Varvatos guy from rock n’ roll fiefdom to the imperial courts of rock n’ roll legends. And though the color palette was somewhat somber compared to other outing, Varvatos’ muted colors and neutrals gave his dandier looks weight, crispness, and more wearability.

—William S. Gooch

Nautica Swimwear Spring 2016

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With all the hype around this inaugural season of New York Fashion Week: Men’s a lot of menswear designers struggled to get collections ready in time. The CFDA only officially announced this inaugural season in mid-February which may have caused put some menswear designers in a panic; particularly those that do not show in Europe during the third week of June. This was not the case for the household brand, Nautica.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Instead of showing a full spring/summer 2016 collection, the iconic brand chose to only present their spring 2016 swimwear. Since Nautica hardly ever shows in Europe, by only presenting their swimwear they were able to be a part of New York Fashion Week: Men’s without rushing to throw some looks together that did do the brand justice like some other menswear design houses.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For the spring 2016 swimwear collection, the sea inspired the Nautica design team as it relates to urban terrains. Modern architectural icons of the New York skyline become nautical details. Paired with updated sportswear pieces, swim takes on the energy and sophistication of a day in the city or a trip to Montauk.

Though one would have like to something more than swim trunks and a few sweaters thrown in for good measure, Nautica’s classic designs as it relates to nautical themes never disappoints. And putting these trunks on top male models is always a plus.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks were Nautica’s neon white mercerized cotton Breton Sweater with neon white stretch nylon riptide print-board short, jet navy mercanized cotton Breton sweater with steel grey stretch mélange board short, and taxi cab yellow nylon Fisherman jacket with carbon black nylon Mondrian print board short.

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Spring 2016

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Perry Ellis has gone through a round table of creative directors since the death of its eponymous founder almost thirty years ago. Of all the designers who have been at the helm of this iconic American menswear brand, perhaps, Michael Maccari’s is the most fashion-forward/next menswear designer that can take this iconic brand into if not the next century, definitely into the next decade.

At a perfunctory glance of the Perry Ellis spring 2016 collection, very little seems to have changed. There were the typical classic Perry Ellis suits, American sportswear classics that don’t necessarily break the mold or reposition the iconic brand. However, at a deeper level this is almost a new Perry Ellis. And the evolution is much needed.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In a menswear season where designers really didn’t have much to say or what they said probably fell on industry professionals’ deaf ears, Maccari demonstrated in this outing that not only does he have the ability to keep the conversation going about Perry Ellis, but he is writing a new script based on innovative fabrics and a unique understanding of how the modern man wants to dress.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

His modern man is not afraid of color; in fact, he embraces it. He is comfortable enough in his masculinity to experiment with softer silhouettes. Maccari’s man also understands how to embrace trends without being overpowered by them. (Maccari’s ingenious way of incorporating the active wear trend by putting workout leggings under shorts was something short of brilliant.)

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

And above all, the new Perry Ellis guy is still sophisticated, chic, and also current and youthful. This was the significant key to the success of this collection. Maccari was deft at expanding the Perry Ellis oeuvre into a new distillation on hipness; youth and vitality without abandoning the signature look.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

There were too many fantastic looks in this spring 2016 collection to just call out a few. However, for the sake of our readers Fashion Reverie will oblige, with the iridescent suits and jackets being at the top of our lists.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Our standout picks include Maccari’s iridescent waffle suit in Khaki, silk blend striped shirt in white with navy track pants, sheer ref jacket in copper with striped suit and compression pants in copper, hand-knit Intarsia sweater in navy with bonded indigo jogger pants, and linen suit in gold rush with silk blend plaid white shirt compression and gym pants in gold rush.

—William S. Gooch

Michael Bastian Spring 2016

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Inspired by the California Bel Air set of the Golden Hollywood era, Michael Bastian paid homage to that particular Southern California enclave that made Tinsel Town tick. The Hollywood of powerful mover and shakers, that set of big time agents and studio heads and the way that particular set wore classic American sportswear.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With Michael Bastian you never really get innovative fabric choice and avant-garde silhouettes. Bastian is not a next menswear designer in that sense of futuristic projections. With Bastian is always about the styling and reassembling classic American sportswear in a way that makes you reconsider how to wear that genre.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This outing was no different. Still, there was some fashion-forward, re-positioning of classic ideas. Camouflage, banana leafed-print sweaters and jackets with white cuffed shorts, polo shirts patch worked in squares to render a crocodile effect, and powdery rose tuxedo jackets were all a reinterpretation of an American preppy aesthetic. Though there were no sweaters tied or draped over the shoulders, we all got the inference.

For good measure, Bastian threw in a few women’s looks for the first time. And it worked. Especially, when Fatima Said is one of the female model additions!!

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For an Easterner, Bastian was very successful in mimicking, and in some cases satirically poking fun at, the Bel Air set. But mimicry aside, Bastian, as always, put together a collection that is current, enervating, and very retail friendly.

Your loyal customers and some new converts will be pleased. Bravo, bravo, Bastian!!

—William S. Gooch

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