Front Row — Page 55

Theia Bridal Fall 2016

October 9, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Theia creative director Don O’Neill believes in possibilities, especially bridal possibilities. And every season he demonstrates the breath and width of possibilities that exists for the modern bride. From bridal collections inspired by Irish sea nymphs to being inspired by the whimsical Art Noveau illustrations of Danish illustrator Kay Rasmus Nielsen, O’Neill is always pushing the proverbial bridal envelope.

O’Neill understands that the modern bride may not want a traditional bridal gown and may not be having a traditional wedding. That said; O’Neill’s collections contain bridal looks for a wide range of modern brides.

This fall 2016 collection was no exception. Inspired the dreamy pathway seen through the foggy have of a 1920’s Opium den, O’Neill made a dramatic shift from previous collections and really pushed his design aesthetic and the Theia bridal customer in a totally new different.

Granted, the Theia bridal customer is always looking for something original and thought provoking; however, this fall 2016 collection might test the limits of where modern brides want to go. And that is a good thing. Nothing happens in the fashion industry without taking some risks, even if the risk-taking is measured. And Don O’Neill is confidant enough to go there. Hopefully, his bridal customer will as well.

This fall 2016 collection was sensuous, reminiscent of a 1920’s chic flapper without being too literal. Though there were some looks that could easily fit into a more traditional bridal pantheon, for the most part O’Neill really pushed his design aesthetic, focusing on that bridal customer who is redefining what marriage is to her.

This customer is fearless, bold, empowered and sets her own rules and standards. She might even walk down the aisle in a shockingly sheer one-shoulder gown that exposes, well, almost everything. And the Theia fall 2016 collection has that exact kind of bridal gown.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Remember, this is the era of change, why not embrace it? There were also several sexy, red gowns in the collection, giving nod to the Asian market where white is a symbol honoring death and red is for marriage unions.

Standout looks in the collection included Artic white faux fur chubby over hand-embroidered diamond sequin slip dress, cloud white Spanish tulle gown with hand-embroidered crystal epaulettes and waist clincher, poppy red hybrid rose-embroidered tulle halter gown with satin aviator scarf, and diamond white tulle one shoulder gown encircled with hand-embroidered crystal and sequin mirror dragon.

—William S. Gooch

The Blonds Spring 2016

September 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Is it possible for The Blonds to turn their aesthetic volume up any higher than they have in past seasons? If their spring 2016 collection is any indication of the design duos ability to outshine previous collections, then mission accomplished!!

Inspired by the land of the Pharaohs and their love of gold, as well as inspired by fine jewels connoisseur Estella Trujillo, for spring 2016 The Blonds outdid themselves with bustiers, bodysuits, moto jackets, and cocktail dresses all resplendent in crystals and semi-precious stones. From the garments to the accessories, this collection was a dissertation on The Blonds penchant and continued love affair with jeweled glamour funneled through a prism of rock n’ roll mixed with haute couture glamour.

As over the top or excessive as this projection could have gone, this collection was not overdone or gaudy. The Blonds managed to inject restraint and sophistication into a collection could have easily become a dissertation on eye-blaring sparkle. That is where the design duo’s craftsmanship came into play. After many years of creative, and occasionally outrageous stage costumes, The Blonds have mastered their craft of bedazzling simple silhouettes. And that is the essence of their genius, taking tried-and-true silhouettes and masterfully embellishing in ways not often seen. Additionally, the subtle injection of Egyptian iconography into many of the garments was sublime!!

And unlike previous seasons, for spring 2016The Blonds had some of the best runway models in the business. For those who follow The Blonds every season, the brand favors very lithe models in very high stiletto or thigh boots. Unfortunately, some seasons the models are bit too thin to bring the right of amount sass and vixen to the collection. And occasionally The Blonds employ models that are not great walkers. Not this season!! The strut and fierceness was dead on this season.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

Standouts from the spring 2016 collection, and there were many, were the Cleopatra corset dress with hand cut and embroidered gold feather and crystal details on lame, crocodile bustier maxi dress with embroidered crystal and hand cut crocodile leather, pyramid motorcycle jacket with hand embroidered gold pyramid and crystal detail, and Horus bodysuit with hand-embroidered 3D baguette and crystal detail.

—William S. Gooch

Greg Lauren Spring 2016

September 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Everything old is new again is an adage that applies to Greg Lauren’s spring 2016 collection. And Greg Lauren’s new again is detailed in an innovative and fashion-forward distillation that will reap dividends in retail sales.

For spring 2016 Greg Lauren presented a new way of looking at fabrications normally associated with casual, low-end fashion. Distressed and stonewashed denim, khaki, parachute materials, and army camouflage tent material has never looked so chic and sophisticated. And the genius of marrying all these casual fabrications with classic and casual silhouettes—which on some level has been done in the past—combined with the styling and exquisite cut and construction of the garments put this collection in the stratosphere of accessible, yet the next incarnation of chic casual wear.

And in this mélange of design construction married with tried-and-true silhouettes funneled through a prism of sophisticated modernity lies Greg Lauren’s brilliance and genius. It was as though these unlikely bedfellows were creating a new fashion point of view. Coupled with the exquisite styling of the collection, this spring 2016 outing was a fashion masterpiece.

Inspired by modern powerful women and diversity, Greg Lauren’s perspective on feminine gusto and diversity extended to looks that went beyond the typical power suit and sophisticated urban warrior looks that many designers employ when conjuring up their vision on feminine power. Greg Lauren’s women is both feminine and masculine at the same time, a marrying of polar opposites that go beyond androgyny due to Greg Lauren’s expert understanding of feminine physique. Lauren’s woman is also hard and soft at the same time, but never ragged edged or unkempt, even if the clothes have that possibility.

Women will love these clothes!! There was something is this collection far a wide range of taste, age demographics and personal style. For a relativity new brand, Greg Lauren has already ready found his fashion oeuvre and it is already very retail friendly.

Most fashion folks are aware the Greg Lauren is the scion (nephew) of fashion icon Ralph Lauren. Still, his journey doesn’t begin and end there. Greg Lauren’s fashion trajectory is uniquely his own with a slight nod to his uncle. (There was a bit of a Western vibe to the collection, expressed clearly in the hats.)

Images courtesy of Andrea Adriana/IMAXTREE

That said; standout looks in this spring 2016 collection were Greg Lauren’s army tent cutout Parka with army tent cropped slim fit with zipped cuff, sleeveless antique indigo hoodie tails with antique indigo drop lounge pant, antique indigo tails with antique indigo cropped tuxe vest, and platinum silk ring dress.

—William S. Gooch

Michael Costello Spring 2016

September 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Everyone is entitled to a comeback. After a stunning, bold, and auspicious spring 2015 collection, Michael Costello’s fall 2015 collection was a letdown. Where Costello’s spring 2015 collection was chic, sophisticated with a bit of risk thrown in for good measure and appropriate shock value—no designer on the current scene does plunging necklines and peek-a-boo illusions better than Costello—Costello’s fall 2015 collection lacked vision, nuance and depth and most of all sophistication and to some extent taste.

That said; Costello’s spring 2016 collection is his go-back-to-the-drawing board, turnaround collection. This collection, though it referenced a variety of styles from the 70s, was funneled through a prism of modernity, sensuality, great style and charm. Where is the past some of Costello’s looks bordered slightly on outré, leave-on-your-money-on-the-nightstand fare, this collection was sophisticated with just enough va va voom to appeal to a wide variety of women.

True to form there were lots of plunging necklines, high slits, cutouts and illusions that revealed lots of flesh that is a part of Costello’s signature look. However, this collection was more forgiving for the female customer that doesn’t have a perfect figure or look like a runway model. And instead of looks that project in-your-face sensuality, this outing was more sexually subdued with a stronger emphasis on sophistication and freedom of movement.

Costello also elevated this collection by employing dazzling, jeweled belts as hardware and embellishing shoulders with jeweled epaulets and plunging necklines with layers of jeweled embroidery. None of these additional embellishments weighed down the collection of made it seem like a matronly night at the opera. Costello’s high slits, exposed décolletage and Veronica Lake–like coifs placed this outing in the now/next fashion constellation.

Though there were looks and some styling in the collection that didn’t quite register, overall this collection was a bonafide hit. And the addition of bags from the House of Borel were just the right accessory to give some looks in the collection that additional street credibility, youthfulness, and modern currency that goes beyond red-carpet glamour.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

Costello in this outing brings sexy back in a way that is appealing to the modern woman who is not afraid of her own sultriness, strength and power, commanding attention while seducing and bringing onlookers into her world. And her world is a universe of confidence, regality, and charm. Bravo Costello!!

—William S. Gooch

iiJin Spring 2016

September 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

At first glance, iiJin’s spring 2016 collection looks like a collection that is based solely on good styling. Many of the looks—particularly the women’s garments—we’ve seen before. Cargo pants in an army tent color palette paired with crop top, leather shorts with an olive army jacket, or a bold floral print dropped crouch pant with matching crop top; all been done before.

So what is so special about iiJin’s spring 2016 collection if it’s only about really good styling? Well, maybe that is what’s special about this iiJin collection, and what’s wrong with a collection centered on good styling? After all, Karl Lagerfeld has made a whole career out of taking tried-and-true design ideas and styling those concepts through the lens of the Chanel aesthetic. So, why can’t iiJin do the same thing? Remember, no matter how good the design construction and inspiration for a collection is, if the styling is bad, the collection can come up flat or lackluster.

What also registers successfully about this outing is the fresh, slightly edgy feel of this collection. In other words, iiJin’s spring 2016 collection has youthful currency!! And the design duo of Cassian Lau and Christina Minasian have really captured the current youthful exuberance of street wear that is now a global movement and funneled that vibrancy through a prism of style, hipness with a certain amount of street cred.

Though the men’s looks in this collection will possibly have more retail viability than some of the women’s looks, the brand’s ladies’ separates will be appealing to a wide range of female consumers. Also, by injecting a bit of bling, evidenced in the sequin embellishments, Lau and Minasian added a slice of glamour and sparkle to the color that was a minus of bold color.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection was iiJin’s sequin army green jacket with floral top and floral shorts, black and white whicker printed jacket with black and white printed pants, black and white graphic bomber with grey sweatshirt with graphic, and green fringe jacket over red graphic tee with black shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Chiara Boni La Petite Robe Spring 2016

September 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For her spring 2016 collection creative designer Chiara Boni paid homage to the fairy gardens of her Florentine childhood. The reference to the 92 days of spring evidenced in the ripe flora of lush Florentine gardens were also accompanied by the song “92 days” composed by Yakamoto Kotzuga. Kotzuga detailed that his music for the collection is “inspired by the suggestions and the images coming from Chiara Boni ideas: dreamlike, refined, almost fairy atmospheres, which follow the sinuous shapes of the feminine body without losing sight of the electronic, contemporary mood.”

As a brand since 20017 Chiara Boni Le Petite Robe has set a standard for designing the cosmopolitan women using their signature jersey fabric. And though the collection often harken back to the well-known silhouettes of the 1950s—imagine Sophia Loren in feminine-form enhancing silhouettes or the saucy sirens in a Fellini movie—overall the collections still possess a design currency that works for the modern woman.

The color palette in this spring 2016 outing ranged from rose to raspberry and peach to oriental blossom prints. Chiara Boni throughout the collection managed to capture the essence of floral fairy gardens in garments that contained rosettes, floral embellishments with soft asymmetrical peplums and puffed sleeves. And though there were some whimsical, ethereal looks in the collection, the signature aesthetic of this outing was buttressed by classic silhouettes that showed off the feminine form.

Chiara Boni also added in several elegant one-piece swimsuits under fluid long dresses and cover-ups, as well as slim slacks and jumpsuits. That said; while most of the collection focused on looks that gave a hint of whimsical floral beauty in color palettes that ranged from peach to raspberry, the real standout looks in the collection actually had more impact in white and black geometric graphic patterns.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection were Chiara Boni’s illusion rose dress, one-piece swimsuit and Tippi print illusion cover up, palazzo pant and Bey top, and Maxime print with matching top.

—William S. Gooch

threeASFOUR Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

threeASFOUR’s spring 2016 collection was a ten-year retrospective look on its design aesthetic, aesthetic that has sustained as separated the brand from other fashion brands. While many fashion pundits would contend that threeASFOUR’s point of view is heavy on concept and weak on consumer viability, many of them miss the point of this groundbreaking fashion brand.

There is such a plethora of American fashion that panders to an American consumer palette that at times is skittish of designers that attempt to expand design aesthetics and points of view. Remember, fashion is both now and next. And if threeasFour’s oeuvre happens to flow more on the side of next instead of now then that is a good thing. Without next there would have been no bikini, silk tuxedoes for women, jersey as appropriate ready-to-wear for women or the man skirt.

For spring 2016 threeASFOUR dress inspiration from topographical layering intermixing with the laser-cut fractal print of the microscopic pictorials of body tissue, veins, capillaries and arteries. This rather graphic—yet beautiful in its own right—print rendering was combined with threeASFOUR’s penchant for curvilinear construction expressed in the brand’s unique understanding of the sacred dimensionality of nature.

What is always exciting about threeasFOUR as a brand is their exquisite ability to stretch the boundaries of masculine and feminine silhouettes. Their particular perspective on asexuality is the next of where fashion is ultimately heading. There really are no tricks in silhouette or construction to subtly express gender, threeasFOUR just goes with the natural curve and scope of the human body, or even sometimes going against that, and what comes out of it, comes out it. And what comes out is always innovative, fresh and of course, fashion forward.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this spring 2016 collection were the cotton sateen/neoprene coated cotton silk satin/organza dress, clavicale fractal mycocardium jumpsuit, wishbone tank/bamboo jersey with stretch cotton poplin circle pant, and mesh cotton lung tank with waxed cotton sateen second skin pant.

—William S. Gooch

HANLEY Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

“Welcome to Havana, a richly textured city of many layers screened by careful edit and random decay … the inspiration behind our Spring-Summer 2016 Collection,” explained the Hanley Mellon one sheet. And this richly textured city is expressed in a spring collection that is color palette that is bright, bold, and vivid juxtaposed against the weathered obscurity of certain layered combinations.

The triumph of this collection is in the layering and the separates. Though at times this collection bordered on pedestrian staples that could be found at almost any mega retail store, at closer examination the brands marriage of unpredictable patterns and texture selections with occasional asymmetrical silhouettes elevated this outing from a standard collection of familiar staple items to items with interesting twist that can be paired with a variety items in a woman’s wardrobe.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

There was also a certain kind of crispness to the collection that can work for that woman who wants style without sacrificing convention. Though many of these looks have been seen before and the at times styling was flat, there was some fashion-forward design to collection, particularly many of the pants looks.

—William S. Gooch

Reem Acra Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Reem Acra wants to take us to her world. And that she does in her spring 2016 collection.

Reem Acra’s world is a universe of rich fabrics, strong, bold colors, stunning embellishments, glamour, sophistication and style. Now, who wouldn’t want to relish this world? Very few would turn this world of beauty, glamour, mystery and seduction down. However, if this world of beauty were positioned only in Reem Acra’s Middle Eastern heritage the collection would only be a costumed homage.

For spring 2016 Reem Acra figured out how to translate her Middle Eastern world of seduction, beauty and romance into a distillation on fashionable garments that reflect a marriage of the worlds of Orientalism and modern exotic charm. And though some of the looks are a bit ‘Arabian Nights,’ the beauty of the garments outweighs the literal reference.

The short dresses and short culottes-like looks with plunging décolletage brought a youthful sexiness to this outing. Where Acra’s fall 2015 collection was all gypsy-inspired lushness with a nod toward Victorian imperiousness, this spring 2016 collection was solidly about feminine sensuality and glamour through a prism of certain type of Orientalism.

While Reem Acra’s shorter length garments were sexy and charming, true to form the real standouts of the collection were the gowns and longer dresses, some of which could function as red-carpet looks. And though fashion pundits may contend that this collection might have less retail viability, many fashionistas—particularly world traveling women—will adore this collection.

Images courtesy of John Aquino/wwd.com

Additionally, by adding embroidered roped and metallic belts, Reem Acra added to the evolution of this collection from an Oriental homage to Scherazade and ‘Arabian Nights’ to a chic, sophisticated collection that would appeal to fashion world traveler. Standout looks in this collection were Reem Acra’s silk metallic print-embroidered blouson dress, strapless royal blue embroidered cotton dress with embroidered belts, mixed metallic chiffon floral print, gold embroidered dress layered over metallic blue pouf pant, and gold embroidered lace long sleeve caftan.

—William S. Gooch

Zang Toi Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Zang Toi looked to the Greek resort island of Santorini for inspiration for his spring 2016 collection. And the resort theme of Aegean Sea-referenced collection worked very well for this collection, especially in the earlier looks of this collection.

Zang Toi married the Santorini resort theme with 70s–inspired looks that at times in the collection worked well. Zang Toi’s neutral toned–garments were very successful and really demonstrated his craftsmanship and seasoned skill as a fashion designer. However, when Toi transitioned to the more bold, colorful aspects in this outing, the collection veered off track and unfortunately looked liked pedestrian looks that could be found in any 1970s Butterick pattern catalogue. Also, the fit of some of the looks were not quite right and did not flatter the body. And where the neutral-toned looks had an element of youthful exuberance, the more bold, colorful looks seemed very dated and matronly.

Toi is known for bringing spectacular couture-like looks that always gets a lot of applause from his loyal fan base. Toi’s fan base was ever present at his spring 2016 collection as well. Unfortunately, where in the past the applause and accolades were well deserved, this collection did not merit bravos. And Zang Toi’s odd choice of opera diva Kathleen Battle singing negro spirituals weighed down the collection even more.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Still, there were garments in this collection that had Zang Toi’s eye-catching panache. Standout looks in the collection were Toi’s cotton Greek Granny crochet mini A-line dress with ocean green plus ocean blue hand-crotchet trims, white Swiss cotton Oxford oversize shirt with platinum hand-top-stitching white couture cotton mini skirt, white hand bloomed mercerized cotton blouson cardigan with white gold-sculpted collar white hand bloomed mercerized cotton plus white gold racer back blouson mini dress, and white Swiss cotton organdy pouf sleeve evening shirt with ocean blue silk Shangtung front slit column skirt.

—William S. Gooch