Front Row — Page 54

threeASFOUR Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

threeASFOUR’s spring 2016 collection was a ten-year retrospective look on its design aesthetic, aesthetic that has sustained as separated the brand from other fashion brands. While many fashion pundits would contend that threeASFOUR’s point of view is heavy on concept and weak on consumer viability, many of them miss the point of this groundbreaking fashion brand.

There is such a plethora of American fashion that panders to an American consumer palette that at times is skittish of designers that attempt to expand design aesthetics and points of view. Remember, fashion is both now and next. And if threeasFour’s oeuvre happens to flow more on the side of next instead of now then that is a good thing. Without next there would have been no bikini, silk tuxedoes for women, jersey as appropriate ready-to-wear for women or the man skirt.

For spring 2016 threeASFOUR dress inspiration from topographical layering intermixing with the laser-cut fractal print of the microscopic pictorials of body tissue, veins, capillaries and arteries. This rather graphic—yet beautiful in its own right—print rendering was combined with threeASFOUR’s penchant for curvilinear construction expressed in the brand’s unique understanding of the sacred dimensionality of nature.

What is always exciting about threeasFOUR as a brand is their exquisite ability to stretch the boundaries of masculine and feminine silhouettes. Their particular perspective on asexuality is the next of where fashion is ultimately heading. There really are no tricks in silhouette or construction to subtly express gender, threeasFOUR just goes with the natural curve and scope of the human body, or even sometimes going against that, and what comes out of it, comes out it. And what comes out is always innovative, fresh and of course, fashion forward.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in this spring 2016 collection were the cotton sateen/neoprene coated cotton silk satin/organza dress, clavicale fractal mycocardium jumpsuit, wishbone tank/bamboo jersey with stretch cotton poplin circle pant, and mesh cotton lung tank with waxed cotton sateen second skin pant.

—William S. Gooch

HANLEY Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

“Welcome to Havana, a richly textured city of many layers screened by careful edit and random decay … the inspiration behind our Spring-Summer 2016 Collection,” explained the Hanley Mellon one sheet. And this richly textured city is expressed in a spring collection that is color palette that is bright, bold, and vivid juxtaposed against the weathered obscurity of certain layered combinations.

The triumph of this collection is in the layering and the separates. Though at times this collection bordered on pedestrian staples that could be found at almost any mega retail store, at closer examination the brands marriage of unpredictable patterns and texture selections with occasional asymmetrical silhouettes elevated this outing from a standard collection of familiar staple items to items with interesting twist that can be paired with a variety items in a woman’s wardrobe.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

There was also a certain kind of crispness to the collection that can work for that woman who wants style without sacrificing convention. Though many of these looks have been seen before and the at times styling was flat, there was some fashion-forward design to collection, particularly many of the pants looks.

—William S. Gooch

Reem Acra Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Reem Acra wants to take us to her world. And that she does in her spring 2016 collection.

Reem Acra’s world is a universe of rich fabrics, strong, bold colors, stunning embellishments, glamour, sophistication and style. Now, who wouldn’t want to relish this world? Very few would turn this world of beauty, glamour, mystery and seduction down. However, if this world of beauty were positioned only in Reem Acra’s Middle Eastern heritage the collection would only be a costumed homage.

For spring 2016 Reem Acra figured out how to translate her Middle Eastern world of seduction, beauty and romance into a distillation on fashionable garments that reflect a marriage of the worlds of Orientalism and modern exotic charm. And though some of the looks are a bit ‘Arabian Nights,’ the beauty of the garments outweighs the literal reference.

The short dresses and short culottes-like looks with plunging décolletage brought a youthful sexiness to this outing. Where Acra’s fall 2015 collection was all gypsy-inspired lushness with a nod toward Victorian imperiousness, this spring 2016 collection was solidly about feminine sensuality and glamour through a prism of certain type of Orientalism.

While Reem Acra’s shorter length garments were sexy and charming, true to form the real standouts of the collection were the gowns and longer dresses, some of which could function as red-carpet looks. And though fashion pundits may contend that this collection might have less retail viability, many fashionistas—particularly world traveling women—will adore this collection.

Images courtesy of John Aquino/wwd.com

Additionally, by adding embroidered roped and metallic belts, Reem Acra added to the evolution of this collection from an Oriental homage to Scherazade and ‘Arabian Nights’ to a chic, sophisticated collection that would appeal to fashion world traveler. Standout looks in this collection were Reem Acra’s silk metallic print-embroidered blouson dress, strapless royal blue embroidered cotton dress with embroidered belts, mixed metallic chiffon floral print, gold embroidered dress layered over metallic blue pouf pant, and gold embroidered lace long sleeve caftan.

—William S. Gooch

Zang Toi Spring 2016

September 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Zang Toi looked to the Greek resort island of Santorini for inspiration for his spring 2016 collection. And the resort theme of Aegean Sea-referenced collection worked very well for this collection, especially in the earlier looks of this collection.

Zang Toi married the Santorini resort theme with 70s–inspired looks that at times in the collection worked well. Zang Toi’s neutral toned–garments were very successful and really demonstrated his craftsmanship and seasoned skill as a fashion designer. However, when Toi transitioned to the more bold, colorful aspects in this outing, the collection veered off track and unfortunately looked liked pedestrian looks that could be found in any 1970s Butterick pattern catalogue. Also, the fit of some of the looks were not quite right and did not flatter the body. And where the neutral-toned looks had an element of youthful exuberance, the more bold, colorful looks seemed very dated and matronly.

Toi is known for bringing spectacular couture-like looks that always gets a lot of applause from his loyal fan base. Toi’s fan base was ever present at his spring 2016 collection as well. Unfortunately, where in the past the applause and accolades were well deserved, this collection did not merit bravos. And Zang Toi’s odd choice of opera diva Kathleen Battle singing negro spirituals weighed down the collection even more.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Still, there were garments in this collection that had Zang Toi’s eye-catching panache. Standout looks in the collection were Toi’s cotton Greek Granny crochet mini A-line dress with ocean green plus ocean blue hand-crotchet trims, white Swiss cotton Oxford oversize shirt with platinum hand-top-stitching white couture cotton mini skirt, white hand bloomed mercerized cotton blouson cardigan with white gold-sculpted collar white hand bloomed mercerized cotton plus white gold racer back blouson mini dress, and white Swiss cotton organdy pouf sleeve evening shirt with ocean blue silk Shangtung front slit column skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Sherri Hill Spring 2016

September 13, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

“Florals for spring, groundbreaking,” remember that iconic line from “The Devil Wears Prada’? Well, whether Sherri Hill got the memo about floral prints for spring looking rather pedestrian or not, it didn’t keep her from putting lots of floral prints in her spring 2016 collection.

Sometimes this floral direction worked, and sometimes it looked like a walk down Southern Belle sipping mint julep among the magnolia tree memory lane. And at times that was a part of the charm of this collection.

That said; for several seasons Sherri Hill has attempted to push her design aesthetic out of the beauty pageant/prom queen genre. Some seasons she is more successful than other times. This collection was not one of her shining moments in that endeavor. And though some of Hill’s floral print garments had a certain amount of charm, at times the saccharine element was almost too sweet, like something out of a 70s Butterick pattern book.

Though Hill did add some trending elements like crop tops, cutouts, and illusions to her floral prints what worked best in this outing is Hill’s pageant-inspired looks. And in the genre Hill is without compare.

Because Sherri Hill has worked in the pageant/prom genre for so many years, this segment of the fashion industry is definitely more comfortable for her and over the years she has instrumental in expanding that genre beyond the pretty, over-embellished gown standard and helped evolve the pageant/prom genre into a fashion-forward expression of that particular genre.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, it is good thing that Sherri Hill continuously pushes out her comfort zone, always trying to evolve her design aesthetic. Ultimately, this quest has influenced her aesthetic, pushing it further and injecting more style and innovation. Keep pushing Sherri!!

—William S. Gooch

Lie Sang Bong Spring 2016

September 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Though Lie Sang Bong has showed during New York Fashion Week for over two years now, Bong is still not a household name in American markets. And that is unfortunate because Lie Sang Bong should be.

Season after season Bong delivers innovative collections with an eye toward retail viability with the spring 2016 collection, perhaps, being the most consumer friendly collection presented stateside. Though other collections have been fashion-forward and stunning with great editorial worth, at times the collections were more fashion as art than fashion as commerce.

Not this time around!! Bong is one of the few designers this season that successfully combined the continuing trends of diaphanous fabrics, micromesh, graphic 3-D digital prints and athletic wear as throughout-the-day wear in one collection.

For spring 2016 Lie Sang Bong created a collection that used simple, white silhouettes as the core color and structure of this collection. With each look Sangbong built on the simplicity of easy, light, casual sportswear married with his unique acuity for embellishing simple silhouettes with graphic and floral cutouts. And though the silhouettes at first glance seem simple in truth they are not. Only a seasoned craftsman can make complicated, asymmetrical silhouettes embellished with cutouts and layers on top of layers seem effortless and move with such ease and freedom.

Images courtesy of Courtesy Photo/wwd.com

What was also great about this particular item is that Lie Sang Bong presented familiar silhouettes in ways that were reimagined, causing reflection on the structure as if he created something that was entirely new. Standouts in the collection were Lie Sang Bong’s asymmetrical white culottes, white oversized shirt and white pant with floral organza cutouts, and blue and white graphic inspired trench.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Spring 2016

September 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Vivienne Tam has always marched to the drum of her own creative vision of fashion. And Tam spring 2016 collection was no exception, extending her vision to embrace a more street wear aesthetic seen through Tam’s particular design aesthetic.

Tam’s show was made up of dark/light greys and black with touches of Army green cottons. White was not the main color that for some designers is usually the common denominator during the spring shows. The interchangeable pieces in this collection are designed for both men and women. For example, a onesy on a male model can be worn by both male and female. There was also a new twist on the baseball jacket made of sheer see-through nylon combined with short dresses with large floral prints.

Influenced by her Asian heritage, there were many styles of the “dragon tattoo” pattern. And another new addition for Tam this season was the long and short shirt son both male and female models in a kaleidoscopic mixture of prints, including lots of layering and mixing of textures intertwined with a smidge of Asian flavor.

This collection also consisted of some sheer white short dresses with a splatter of abstract roses, as well as strapless jumpsuits with ruffles across the top. Into the mix were kimono jacket robes to be worn outdoors over any of the pieces in the collection.

Images courtesy of John Aquino/wwd.com

In this outing, Tam used lots of layers in a variety of mixes and combines that is representative of the change in societal moods, morays, and points of view. Though this spring 2016 collection would not qualify as the most exciting collection from Vivienne Tam, this collection had many twists and turns of basic styles and some original use of fabrications.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Monique Lhuilier Spring 2016

September 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Monique Lhuillier never ceases to amaze. There always seems to be another innovation, another interesting combination of color and fabrication, a new way of looking at an old silhouette or simply a reinterpretation of beauty.

For spring 2016 Lhuillier’s reinterpretation of beauty or fashion as art rested on the shoulders of her vision of simplicity married with sculptural minimalism from her inspiration for this collection, the work of Ellsworth Kelly. Like Ellsworth Kelly, Lhuillier developed her aesthetic this season around the concept of shaped canvasses that focused on one or two primary colors. And the development of this design motif throughout the collection is the basis of Lhuillier’s brilliance and genius.

With opening looks of simple shift dress silhouettes in primary colors with jeweled and beaded necklines, the collection evolved to lacy floral separates still in primary colors. The collection continued its metamorphosis to include pointillism-like floral prints still in 1960s simple silhouettes, lastly, erupting into more constructed evening wear in bold, form-fitting, primary colors.

In this collection, Lhuillier has earned her right to the old adage “less is more.” For Lhuillier, her less was more dynamic, more focused, more true, and ultimately more of a risk. Only a designer with Lhuillier’s design acumen can take tried-and-true silhouettes combined with primary colors—this has been done time and again ad nauseam—and create something bold, unique, fashion forward, but not off putting for female consumers.

Lhuillier’s color palette of fuchsia, strawberry red, lipstick pink, spring green, cobalt, and geranium, though at times not necessarily spring/summer fare, due to the design genius of the collection possessed a sophisticated lightness and joie de vivre that any woman would easily prescribe to. And though the peplum silhouette has been a weary worn feminine construct for several seasons, Lhuillier by employing a grand asymmetrical cut made her peplum gowns a Diana Vreeland–like design concept of now and next.

Images courtesy of Danielle Oberrauch/nymag.com

Standouts in this collection, and there were many, were Lhuillier’s noir double gauze strapless dress with draped skirt and silk-white pebble crepe u, fuchsia multi-floral splatter print lace sheath dress with integral noir micro-floral lace bandeau, silk Chantilly lace dress with multi-color PVG floral embroidery, and azure silk faille strapless draped bodice with train matched with cobalt silk faille pant.

—William S. Gooch

5:31 Jerome Spring 2016

September 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Jerome LaMaar, creative director 5:31 Jerome, has not abandoned his urban roots. And perhaps, that is a good thing. With his the spring 2016 collection of his eponymous brand, LaMaar has attempted to create the new urban glam fashionista—and by urban I am referencing a downtown Brooklyn fashionista, maybe, even an uptown Harlem style maven.

Now, LaMaar’s new urban fashionista has a sense of street style in-your-face glamour married with a patina of outré high fashion. She’s confident, eye catching and not afraid to be the first to don garments that are outside of the fashion cultural norm.

LaMaar has made a good attempt for spring 2016 to create appropriate clothes for this new urban consumer. Though at times, he overextended his reach with an over abundance of embellishments and sequins.

Themed “Earth. Abundance. Maximalism,” LaMaar was most successful with his flora reference that included foliage-themed restrained volume jackets and light coats. LaMaar’s abundance and maximalism themes were not as well thought out and bordered on too many ideas and too many fabrications and embellishments. Instead of abundance, some garments referenced overkill. Less should have been more with this motif.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

Still, LaMaar is evolving his design aesthetic beyond some of the design silhouettes he learned well while at Baby Phat. And his knit and silk dresses with rivets were sexy and will have a larger market appeal.

As one of the few African American designers that show regularly during NYFW, LaMaar should be celebrated for his evolving aesthetic and his resilience in market that sometimes swallows up the best. Keep up the good work!!

—William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Spring 2016

September 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

The Custo Barcelona of spring 2016 is not the Custo Barcelona of the past. And that is a good thing. We all loved the kaleidoscope of color and the crazy quilt patterns and fabrications, and the outré silhouettes were an editorial dream and the be-all-end-all look for those shock value fashionistas. Still, the retail value of the brand was disintegrating. Particularly, with upstart Desigual stealing all of Custo’s thunder.

Things have evolved at the brand, and the evolution is pointing Custo in the right direction. The miasma of color and wild patterns and fabric combinations are still in place. So, you could say, Dalmau Custo’s signature point of view is still dictating the design aesthetic of the brand. However, the direction of the brand is focusing on retail sales that is reflected in collection that have more retail viability.

For spring 2016, Dalmau Custo was inspired by rebellious, powerful women who like to express their of style and individuality in bold colors, ergonomic patterns and geometric shapes. Bold and powerful points of view have always been a central theme of the Custo Barcelona design aesthetic. However, this season that perspective has been funneled through a lens of more wearable clothes.

Where in past seasons the men’s looks in the collections sometimes outshined many of the women’s pieces, for spring 2016 there was a lot more balance between the genders. Dalmau Custo continued with his carwash, thick-fringed skirts and dresses from the past two outings, as well as patched geometric shapes forming a mini-shift dress. Still, the combinations of silhouettes and crazy quilt patterns this season seemed to paired together better to be more appealing to consumers.

And the sequins and glitzy glam added to several looks later on in the collection produced additional sensation that really made this collection sing. Custo Barcelona has not exactly been seen in the States as night out on the town fashion brand, but this collection could prove some fashion pundits wrong.