Front Row — Page 53

Oscar de la Renta Bridal Fall 2016

October 10, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For bridal fall 2016 creative director Peter Copping reinterpreted styles from the fashion house’s spring 2016 collection for fall bridal 2016. There were modern twists on high-collar Victorian look as well as modern interpretations of Latin-influenced lacey capelets.

Surprisingly, Copping used a lot of floral appliques and floral embellishments on many of the bridal gowns. Unlike other bridal brands that use crystals, sequins, frosty-like embellishments and beading to conjure images of winter, Copping used tulle layering and floral for fall bridal gowns. The effect was no less autumnal or wintry.

Though this collection used like floral embroidery, layers of tulle and voluminous ball gown skirts, there was a simplicity and sophistication to the collection that altered the fussiness or overdone direction the collection could have gone in. Instead, Copping rendered a lush and beautiful collection that was steeped in Oscar de la Renta’s formula signature while injecting his own creative oeuvre.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

This collection contained some sheer lace tops, done in short-sleeve and halter versions with ribbon ties, Copping’s version of frothy tiered dresses and lots of floral embroidery, from pink floral appliques to beads stitched together to form floral shapes.

Oscar de la Renta’s signature look was ever present in this fall 2016 collection, yet, Copping made us all aware that he is now manning this fashion house. Bravo Copping!!

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2016

October 9, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Ines Di Santo is known for her bridal mermaid silhouette. Surprisingly, this season there were very few mermaid bridal gowns; in fact, this collection was a bit of a departure from the Ines Di Santo most bridal editors have become familiar with.

For several seasons, Di Santo has made her stamp on the bridal market by creating bridal looks that are infused with a strong patina of couture craftsmanship. However, this season Di Santo went more commercial.

While many bridal industry professionals love the sculptural beauty of Di Santo’s bridal couture-like gowns, the more commercial direction of the brand does not diminish the sheer beauty and craftsmanship that is still a part of the Di Santo oeuvre

For fall 2016, Ines Di Santo was inspired by light and all of its beautiful qualities. Di Santo’s reference to light and light’s many incarnation explains the ethereal quality of the collection and her move away from her tried-and-true aesthetic of more sculptural gowns with embellished bustiers. And though the light airiness of the collection was beautiful and more commercially viable, Di Santo’s signature aesthetic was missed.

Still, Ines Di Santo understands something that so many designers fail to understand. All collections look better when you have top models walking in her show. And the new direction of your brand will be received better if the clothes walked down the runway on some of the best runway models in the industry.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though Di Santo’s ball gowns with scattered floral embellishments were bit Walt Disney, there were some exceptional standouts that deserve mention and celebration. Standout looks in the collection were Di Santo’s sensual lace sheath with deep V neckline and illusion sleeve accented by appliqued cuffs, sleeveless sheath in Four Ply Silk with scooped neckline and ballet back, sleeveless dropped waist gown with collaged lace tulle skirt and dramatic cathedral-length train, and beaded lace mini with asymmetrical skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Kelly Faetanini Bridal Fall 2016

October 9, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Kelly Faetanini looked to the magical world that C. S. Lewis created in his Narnia novels for her fall 2016 bridal collection. In Narnia there is a mystical relationship between talking animals and the humans who live there.

The Narnia fairytale world that informs this collection is expressed in details of intricate hand-beading that resembles evergreen forests, leaf-patterned appliques, layers and illusions of lace on the shoulders and down the back of the gown give that give a projection of vines, and glistening ice crystal embellishments. Also, the frothy, soft tulle overlays reference a Narnia that is covered in lieu of the absence of the lion Aslam.

Faetanini has evolved her bridal design aesthetic that in her early years reflected more fashion as art than what was commercially viable. However, in the past few years Faetanini has found that delicate balance between her own creative oeuvre and what the modern bride will wear on her very special day.

This particular collection was a testament to Faetanini learning how to temper throwing too many ideas in at one time, hoping that it all miraculously melds to make one seamless expression—which its what would happen in some earlier outings. In this collection Faetanini is cohesive in her design aesthetic and added touches of sophistication that elevates her collection without diminishing the youthful exuberance.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though Faetanini started this fall 2016 bridal collection with some bridesmaids’ looks that were rather pedestrian; overall, the collection was quite beautiful with the detachable skirts being a nice, utilitarian element. That said: standout looks in the collection were Faetanini’s short one-shoulder pleated chiffon dress, silk Mikado strapless fit-to-flare with piped Alencon lace corset-style bodice, blush-beaded Alencon lace fit-to-flare with tulle pleated skirt, and tulle ball gown with pleated bodice and color transforming blush embroidery.

—William S. Gooch

Inbal Dror Bridal Fall 2016

October 9, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

With Inbal Dror you always get the finest European fabrications combined with exquisite detailing all seen through the lens of couture craftsmanship. Never one to rest on her laurels, Inbal Dror every season pulls something new and innovative out of her deep well of creative genius. This season was no exception.

Inspired by the idea of contrasting glamour and decadence in one garment, for fall 2016 Inbal Dror bridal collection ranged from regal Bridal gowns to sultry eveningwear injected with some menswear influences. This season Dror was attempting to find that juxtaposition between frothy bridal wear and an inventive play on men’s tuxedo jackets and tailored button-down shirts. Dror also expanded her color beyond the traditional bridal hues of ivory, vanilla and champagne to include charcoal blush and black.

Like previous collections, Dror likes to emphasize the curves of a woman’s body in her bridal looks. This perspective was again a prime focal point of Dror’s fall 2016 collection. However, unlike previous outings, this collection had a dual purpose. Several of the looks in the collection could also be worn for a night out on the town in any major international city.

Dror has tapped into how the bridal industry is evolving past and industry that only embraces gowns that will worn only that one special occasion or past down as heirlooms. Dror realizes that the modern bride is more utilitarian is open to embracing looks that are nontraditional and border on sultry nightlife clothes.

This fall 2016 collection had something for a wide range of brides, facilitating a wide variety tastes and age demographics. What is consistent about Inbal Dror is that her customer loves luxury couture-inspired looks and does not shrink away from her sensuality and allure.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

That said; standout looks for this collection included Dror’s body-hugging crotchet pant suit, caviar-beaded double breasted gown, men’s-inspired button-down shirt lace and organza gown with high slits, and charcoal blush mermaid gown with fitted lace bodice.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Fall 2016

October 9, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Theia creative director Don O’Neill believes in possibilities, especially bridal possibilities. And every season he demonstrates the breath and width of possibilities that exists for the modern bride. From bridal collections inspired by Irish sea nymphs to being inspired by the whimsical Art Noveau illustrations of Danish illustrator Kay Rasmus Nielsen, O’Neill is always pushing the proverbial bridal envelope.

O’Neill understands that the modern bride may not want a traditional bridal gown and may not be having a traditional wedding. That said; O’Neill’s collections contain bridal looks for a wide range of modern brides.

This fall 2016 collection was no exception. Inspired the dreamy pathway seen through the foggy have of a 1920’s Opium den, O’Neill made a dramatic shift from previous collections and really pushed his design aesthetic and the Theia bridal customer in a totally new different.

Granted, the Theia bridal customer is always looking for something original and thought provoking; however, this fall 2016 collection might test the limits of where modern brides want to go. And that is a good thing. Nothing happens in the fashion industry without taking some risks, even if the risk-taking is measured. And Don O’Neill is confidant enough to go there. Hopefully, his bridal customer will as well.

This fall 2016 collection was sensuous, reminiscent of a 1920’s chic flapper without being too literal. Though there were some looks that could easily fit into a more traditional bridal pantheon, for the most part O’Neill really pushed his design aesthetic, focusing on that bridal customer who is redefining what marriage is to her.

This customer is fearless, bold, empowered and sets her own rules and standards. She might even walk down the aisle in a shockingly sheer one-shoulder gown that exposes, well, almost everything. And the Theia fall 2016 collection has that exact kind of bridal gown.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Remember, this is the era of change, why not embrace it? There were also several sexy, red gowns in the collection, giving nod to the Asian market where white is a symbol honoring death and red is for marriage unions.

Standout looks in the collection included Artic white faux fur chubby over hand-embroidered diamond sequin slip dress, cloud white Spanish tulle gown with hand-embroidered crystal epaulettes and waist clincher, poppy red hybrid rose-embroidered tulle halter gown with satin aviator scarf, and diamond white tulle one shoulder gown encircled with hand-embroidered crystal and sequin mirror dragon.

—William S. Gooch

The Blonds Spring 2016

September 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Is it possible for The Blonds to turn their aesthetic volume up any higher than they have in past seasons? If their spring 2016 collection is any indication of the design duos ability to outshine previous collections, then mission accomplished!!

Inspired by the land of the Pharaohs and their love of gold, as well as inspired by fine jewels connoisseur Estella Trujillo, for spring 2016 The Blonds outdid themselves with bustiers, bodysuits, moto jackets, and cocktail dresses all resplendent in crystals and semi-precious stones. From the garments to the accessories, this collection was a dissertation on The Blonds penchant and continued love affair with jeweled glamour funneled through a prism of rock n’ roll mixed with haute couture glamour.

As over the top or excessive as this projection could have gone, this collection was not overdone or gaudy. The Blonds managed to inject restraint and sophistication into a collection could have easily become a dissertation on eye-blaring sparkle. That is where the design duo’s craftsmanship came into play. After many years of creative, and occasionally outrageous stage costumes, The Blonds have mastered their craft of bedazzling simple silhouettes. And that is the essence of their genius, taking tried-and-true silhouettes and masterfully embellishing in ways not often seen. Additionally, the subtle injection of Egyptian iconography into many of the garments was sublime!!

And unlike previous seasons, for spring 2016The Blonds had some of the best runway models in the business. For those who follow The Blonds every season, the brand favors very lithe models in very high stiletto or thigh boots. Unfortunately, some seasons the models are bit too thin to bring the right of amount sass and vixen to the collection. And occasionally The Blonds employ models that are not great walkers. Not this season!! The strut and fierceness was dead on this season.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

Standouts from the spring 2016 collection, and there were many, were the Cleopatra corset dress with hand cut and embroidered gold feather and crystal details on lame, crocodile bustier maxi dress with embroidered crystal and hand cut crocodile leather, pyramid motorcycle jacket with hand embroidered gold pyramid and crystal detail, and Horus bodysuit with hand-embroidered 3D baguette and crystal detail.

—William S. Gooch

Greg Lauren Spring 2016

September 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Everything old is new again is an adage that applies to Greg Lauren’s spring 2016 collection. And Greg Lauren’s new again is detailed in an innovative and fashion-forward distillation that will reap dividends in retail sales.

For spring 2016 Greg Lauren presented a new way of looking at fabrications normally associated with casual, low-end fashion. Distressed and stonewashed denim, khaki, parachute materials, and army camouflage tent material has never looked so chic and sophisticated. And the genius of marrying all these casual fabrications with classic and casual silhouettes—which on some level has been done in the past—combined with the styling and exquisite cut and construction of the garments put this collection in the stratosphere of accessible, yet the next incarnation of chic casual wear.

And in this mélange of design construction married with tried-and-true silhouettes funneled through a prism of sophisticated modernity lies Greg Lauren’s brilliance and genius. It was as though these unlikely bedfellows were creating a new fashion point of view. Coupled with the exquisite styling of the collection, this spring 2016 outing was a fashion masterpiece.

Inspired by modern powerful women and diversity, Greg Lauren’s perspective on feminine gusto and diversity extended to looks that went beyond the typical power suit and sophisticated urban warrior looks that many designers employ when conjuring up their vision on feminine power. Greg Lauren’s women is both feminine and masculine at the same time, a marrying of polar opposites that go beyond androgyny due to Greg Lauren’s expert understanding of feminine physique. Lauren’s woman is also hard and soft at the same time, but never ragged edged or unkempt, even if the clothes have that possibility.

Women will love these clothes!! There was something is this collection far a wide range of taste, age demographics and personal style. For a relativity new brand, Greg Lauren has already ready found his fashion oeuvre and it is already very retail friendly.

Most fashion folks are aware the Greg Lauren is the scion (nephew) of fashion icon Ralph Lauren. Still, his journey doesn’t begin and end there. Greg Lauren’s fashion trajectory is uniquely his own with a slight nod to his uncle. (There was a bit of a Western vibe to the collection, expressed clearly in the hats.)

Images courtesy of Andrea Adriana/IMAXTREE

That said; standout looks in this spring 2016 collection were Greg Lauren’s army tent cutout Parka with army tent cropped slim fit with zipped cuff, sleeveless antique indigo hoodie tails with antique indigo drop lounge pant, antique indigo tails with antique indigo cropped tuxe vest, and platinum silk ring dress.

—William S. Gooch

Michael Costello Spring 2016

September 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Everyone is entitled to a comeback. After a stunning, bold, and auspicious spring 2015 collection, Michael Costello’s fall 2015 collection was a letdown. Where Costello’s spring 2015 collection was chic, sophisticated with a bit of risk thrown in for good measure and appropriate shock value—no designer on the current scene does plunging necklines and peek-a-boo illusions better than Costello—Costello’s fall 2015 collection lacked vision, nuance and depth and most of all sophistication and to some extent taste.

That said; Costello’s spring 2016 collection is his go-back-to-the-drawing board, turnaround collection. This collection, though it referenced a variety of styles from the 70s, was funneled through a prism of modernity, sensuality, great style and charm. Where is the past some of Costello’s looks bordered slightly on outré, leave-on-your-money-on-the-nightstand fare, this collection was sophisticated with just enough va va voom to appeal to a wide variety of women.

True to form there were lots of plunging necklines, high slits, cutouts and illusions that revealed lots of flesh that is a part of Costello’s signature look. However, this collection was more forgiving for the female customer that doesn’t have a perfect figure or look like a runway model. And instead of looks that project in-your-face sensuality, this outing was more sexually subdued with a stronger emphasis on sophistication and freedom of movement.

Costello also elevated this collection by employing dazzling, jeweled belts as hardware and embellishing shoulders with jeweled epaulets and plunging necklines with layers of jeweled embroidery. None of these additional embellishments weighed down the collection of made it seem like a matronly night at the opera. Costello’s high slits, exposed décolletage and Veronica Lake–like coifs placed this outing in the now/next fashion constellation.

Though there were looks and some styling in the collection that didn’t quite register, overall this collection was a bonafide hit. And the addition of bags from the House of Borel were just the right accessory to give some looks in the collection that additional street credibility, youthfulness, and modern currency that goes beyond red-carpet glamour.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ernest Green

Costello in this outing brings sexy back in a way that is appealing to the modern woman who is not afraid of her own sultriness, strength and power, commanding attention while seducing and bringing onlookers into her world. And her world is a universe of confidence, regality, and charm. Bravo Costello!!

—William S. Gooch

iiJin Spring 2016

September 16, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

At first glance, iiJin’s spring 2016 collection looks like a collection that is based solely on good styling. Many of the looks—particularly the women’s garments—we’ve seen before. Cargo pants in an army tent color palette paired with crop top, leather shorts with an olive army jacket, or a bold floral print dropped crouch pant with matching crop top; all been done before.

So what is so special about iiJin’s spring 2016 collection if it’s only about really good styling? Well, maybe that is what’s special about this iiJin collection, and what’s wrong with a collection centered on good styling? After all, Karl Lagerfeld has made a whole career out of taking tried-and-true design ideas and styling those concepts through the lens of the Chanel aesthetic. So, why can’t iiJin do the same thing? Remember, no matter how good the design construction and inspiration for a collection is, if the styling is bad, the collection can come up flat or lackluster.

What also registers successfully about this outing is the fresh, slightly edgy feel of this collection. In other words, iiJin’s spring 2016 collection has youthful currency!! And the design duo of Cassian Lau and Christina Minasian have really captured the current youthful exuberance of street wear that is now a global movement and funneled that vibrancy through a prism of style, hipness with a certain amount of street cred.

Though the men’s looks in this collection will possibly have more retail viability than some of the women’s looks, the brand’s ladies’ separates will be appealing to a wide range of female consumers. Also, by injecting a bit of bling, evidenced in the sequin embellishments, Lau and Minasian added a slice of glamour and sparkle to the color that was a minus of bold color.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection was iiJin’s sequin army green jacket with floral top and floral shorts, black and white whicker printed jacket with black and white printed pants, black and white graphic bomber with grey sweatshirt with graphic, and green fringe jacket over red graphic tee with black shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Chiara Boni La Petite Robe Spring 2016

September 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

For her spring 2016 collection creative designer Chiara Boni paid homage to the fairy gardens of her Florentine childhood. The reference to the 92 days of spring evidenced in the ripe flora of lush Florentine gardens were also accompanied by the song “92 days” composed by Yakamoto Kotzuga. Kotzuga detailed that his music for the collection is “inspired by the suggestions and the images coming from Chiara Boni ideas: dreamlike, refined, almost fairy atmospheres, which follow the sinuous shapes of the feminine body without losing sight of the electronic, contemporary mood.”

As a brand since 20017 Chiara Boni Le Petite Robe has set a standard for designing the cosmopolitan women using their signature jersey fabric. And though the collection often harken back to the well-known silhouettes of the 1950s—imagine Sophia Loren in feminine-form enhancing silhouettes or the saucy sirens in a Fellini movie—overall the collections still possess a design currency that works for the modern woman.

The color palette in this spring 2016 outing ranged from rose to raspberry and peach to oriental blossom prints. Chiara Boni throughout the collection managed to capture the essence of floral fairy gardens in garments that contained rosettes, floral embellishments with soft asymmetrical peplums and puffed sleeves. And though there were some whimsical, ethereal looks in the collection, the signature aesthetic of this outing was buttressed by classic silhouettes that showed off the feminine form.

Chiara Boni also added in several elegant one-piece swimsuits under fluid long dresses and cover-ups, as well as slim slacks and jumpsuits. That said; while most of the collection focused on looks that gave a hint of whimsical floral beauty in color palettes that ranged from peach to raspberry, the real standout looks in the collection actually had more impact in white and black geometric graphic patterns.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection were Chiara Boni’s illusion rose dress, one-piece swimsuit and Tippi print illusion cover up, palazzo pant and Bey top, and Maxime print with matching top.

—William S. Gooch