Front Row — Page 52

Monique Lhuillier Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Monique Lhuillier is full of surprises. Just when you think you have a handle on her design aesthetic, Monique Lhuillier injects a unique perspective that takes you on a completely different, but relevant journey.

From collections that were dissertations on florals to collections that were inspired by the Garden of Eden, 80s athletic wear, to 70s–inspired garments, Lhuiller’s collections are not par for the course, standard fare. Which is why ever season she expands her consumer base, and has become one of the go-to designers for red-carpet glamour. In other words, Lhuillier keeps you guessing, but in a good way.

Taking a cue from actress and socialite Talitha Getty, for fall 2016 Monique Lhuillier really dipped into 70s glamour reference for inspiration, all evidenced in metallic lames, fanciful prints, and paisley-printed jacquards. A couple of seasons ago Lhuillier played around with a 1970s reference with a strong nod toward Studio 54; however, this season Lhuillier 70s inspiration leaned more toward an early psychedelic, free spirit influence.

This season Lhuillier also played a lot with separates and outerwear, with the outerwear being a wonderful concentration, something that is a great expansion for the brand. And you cannot forget the wonderful accessories, as well. Interestingly, Lhuillier is demonstrating that she is poised this season to push her brand beyond wonderful red carpet garments. This projection has slowly been taking form over the last couple of season; however, this season this expansion of the brand is now in full throttle.

For those who worship Lhuillier for her red carpet looks there was plenty to go around, still the standouts in this collection were Lhuillier’s outerwear. That said; other standout looks include Lhuillier’s teal leaf jacquard sweater with Alpaca metallic knit rib black silk georgette ruffle neck blouse with embellished ties, jade oversized coat with rose pink flowers, noir gold deco embroidered tulle gown, and cherry embroidered tulle tiered ball gown with blue bell lacquer floral embellishment.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

And one small extra incite about this collection, Monique Lhuillier has joined forces with the likes of Mara Hoffman and some other American designers that had some of their garments immediately available after their fall 2016 runway presentations. Lhuillier had five looks to be exact. Now the question is did the “See Now, Buy Now” business model work? Time will tell.

—William S. Gooch

Desigual Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For several seasons, Desigual has been a foil and competition to similar global brand, Custo Barcelona. Where for the past few years, Desigual has stolen much of Custo Barcelona’s thunder and consumer base, it was still seen in fashion circles as a less expensive alternative to Custo Barcelona without the fashion-as-art–design aesthetic.

That may have changed with Desigual’s fall 2016 collection. Both brands are based in Spain—Custo in Barcelona, Desigual in Madrid—and both brands have established themselves as brand that inject bold color, a kaleidoscope of patterns and fabrications projected through a prism of modernity and fashion-forward sensibility. Still, Desigual has always presented the more wearable collection that has had more an appeal to American consumers. And while every season they have attempted to include more fashion-forward sensibility to their collections, Custo Barcelona still reigns supreme in that respect.

For fall 2016, that design and cultural aesthetic divide has become narrower. Referencing global cultural influences with a heavy nod to the early 1970s, Desigual in this fall 2016 collection has almost caught up to Custo Barcelona, particularly when it comes to now and next aspect of design.

In previous seasons Desigual’s strong point was in the styling of their collections, the bold color and print combinations and the joy and ebullience of their runway presentations. Still, what were absent, at times, was the unique design perspectives. How many shift dresses in glorious color print combinations can continue to excite consumers every season? That design point of view wears its welcome out over time.

Realizing that, Desigual this season put a strong emphasis on design. And it paid off!! This was a collection for that hip fashionista that marches to the beat of her own fashion drum and remains stylish at the same time.

One of the more interesting fabrication combinations in the collection was Desigual’s black and white plaid paired with dark denim or geometric black and white print. An added attraction was the smart Barnaby Street–like caps and chapeaus. Also a standout in this 2016 outing was the richly embroidered overcoats and Russian capes.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Overall, this collection has a richness and texture that was missing in previous showings. Standout looks in this collection include multi-abstract geometric patchwork overcoat with matching turtleneck and printed tights, black and plaid knit overcoat, Russian-print wool-mix overcoat with denim jack and skirt, and faux fur–lined denim vest over floral chiffon blouse and geometric easy pants.

Custo Barcelona, Desigual brought their A-game for fall 2016. It’s time to arm up. The battle is on!!

—William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For fall 2016, Dalmau Custo looked to the 1970s in this 20^th anniversary of the Custo Barcelona brand. Contrary to what Dalmau Custo brings each season; this was a more minimalist, pared down collection. And in some respect that was a good thing.

As a brand Custo Barcelona’s menswear garments have always had more wearability; however, for fall 2016 the brand’s women’s pieces were more wearable without sacrificing the brand’s DNA of quirky, fashion-forward sensibility. Where in past outings, the brand always mixed and matched a wide array of color palettes, fabrications, and textures, for fall 2016 the brand instituted a more pared down approach to the brand’s signature aesthetic.

Dalmau Custo’s restraint produced looks that were more wearable and would perhaps appeal to a wider demographic. For the past few seasons the brand has looked to create garments that were more accessible and appealing to that consumer who is risk taking but still wants wearable clothes. And this new perspective is working for Custo Barcelona.

With Desigual stealing much of the thunder of Custo in recent season and the brand shuttering over 200 stores worldwide, this new business and creative model was necessary. Still, diehard Custo fans were reticent about this new approach, hoping that the brand did not become more commercial and its signature DNA stayed in tact.

The fall 2016 collection demonstrates that Custo’s fan base need not be worried. In this collection entitled “Reborn,” Dalmau Custo repositions the brand and this is evidenced in some of the first looks of the collection. The brand has always been known for creating one-of-a-kind fabrics and textures, and with the creation of the raffia interwoven with a metallic thread combined with a shiny fabric that is a cross between patent leather and vinyl, the brand is staying true to its design aesthetic.

In past seasons, Custo Barcelona’s men’s looks have out trumped the brand’s women’s garments in terms of wearable appeal. However, this season Dalmau Custo minimalist and restrained approach was also applied to the women’s looks, producing garments that would have a wider appeal.

Images courtes of InDigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks include the leopard coat looks combined with black raffia, the purple and white ombre looks, and the brand’s black shiny vinyl ruffled garments. Happy 20^th.

—William S. Gooch

Marcel Ostertag Fall 2016

February 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

In Marcel Ostertag’s debut season at New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS), Ostertag demonstrated that he has a strong sense of style as he mixes lights with darks, and sheer fabrics with heavy wools. Especially elegant is the total sheer burgundy long-sleeve gown that can be worn under his oversized sheer blouses.

Belted coats have been a staple on most runways this season; however, for fall 2016 Marcel Ostertag uses a light blue palette coordinated with shiny silver metallic shorts underneath. This was an unusual departure in that many designers/brands this season showed shorts with high boots and colored hose.

There is a cohesive thread that runs through Ostertag’s fall 2016 collection. Every piece can be worn with other garments in the collection. Most collections seen this season are using neutrals as an industry staple. So does Ostertag; however, Marcel Ostertag uses some black pieces with a military aesthetic along with an amazing navy blue wool jacket with horizontal belting, webbing, and gold ornaments.

The mixture of his ombre grey and burgundy was something new on the runway this season. Ostertag used this color palette pairing in his wrap coats and oversized tops. Though Ostertag’s risks in this collection were subtly restrained, the risks were effective and interesting.

Images courtesy of zimbio.com

Ostertag’s fall 2016 collection included fitted, belted and flowing looks that were very versatile, utilitarian and accessible to a large demographic of sizes and tastes. Some embellishments may have taken away from the silhouettes and may have been over designed; however, Ostertag is on point, and his creativity will prevail. Fashion pundits look forward to his return to NYFWS.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Rubin Singer Fall 2016

February 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Though Rubin Singer is a not a household name, he has been a fashion favorite among industry professional for quite a while. Every season industry professionals anxiously await his shows. And when he doesn’t show, there is a congregational sigh of disappointment.

That said; Singer has dressed dozens of celebrities for red carpet appearances and has appeared in a wide array of high fashion magazines. With his fall 2016 collection, it is just a matter time before Singer becomes well known to the general consumer.

Singer’s fall 2016 collection combines everything that fashion pundits have come to love about his clothes. There is drama, glamour, innovative construction married with luxe fabrications and intricate details. All these wonderful elements are seen through the lens of what the modern women is looking for when it comes high fashion glamour. And what excites fashion pundits and insiders about Singer’s fall 2016 collection is Singer’s acuity at pulling from high fashion‘s past—Balenciaga, Dior, Madame Gres—while keeping this collection fresh and current.

The inspiration for Singer’s fall 2016 collection was a continuation of his spring 2016 mathematical references. Singer’s “Homomorphism” inspiration defined as any given formula that ends up in the same place no matter how many times that formula changes; was the starting point for this collection. From this mathematical vector, Singer morphed into a new direction when it comes to separates, fabrications and daywear to evening wear. These new directions will expand Singer’s consumer base that previously had been focused mostly on evening wear.

That said; Singer always acknowledges architectural structure expressed through a feminine perspective and his fall 2016 collection was no exception. However, this season, Singer’s feminine architectural panache is married with fabrications and techniques that expand Singer’s design palette.

Images courtesy of Rubin Singer

Standout looks in the collection are Singer’s hand-draped applique paillette chiffon “Homomophism” dress, metallic hexagon jacquard halter gown, pale orchid ruffled taffeta blouse with silk panne velvet palazzo pant, and black cashmere dolman sleeve novelty knit with black fils coupe wide leg pant.

—William S. Gooch

Woodhouse Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion editors are always looking for that next designer/brand that is not afraid to take risks and creates a collection that is a combination of the now and next aesthetic that satisfies the ever-changing palette of consumers. It is one thing to whet the evolving style palette; however, it is a challenge to also create garments that predict what consumers will want in their wardrobe before they know.

Woodhouse is an emerging menswear brand that is doing just that. For fall 2016 creative director Julian Woodhouse was inspired by Korean street style and military themes. Being an army brat, Woodhouse drew from personal experience. However, this debut showing during New York Fashion Week: Mens (NYFWM) was much more than that. This collection contained garments that would be a first in most men’s wardrobe.

That said; most of the silhouettes in this collection have been seen before. However, what stands out most in this NYFWM debut collection is Woodhouse’s ability to combine well-known silhouettes—extended crouch pants, padded shoulders, jackets with restrained volume—and funnel these styles through a lens of contemporary style and fashion-forward sensibility.

Though this collection was definitely for a younger consumer with a thirst for the next in menswear fashion, there were some separates that could work for a wider male demographic. And Woodhouse’s utilitarian approach to contemporary menswear was an added plus to this collection. There were jackets with embedded, detachable backpacks, jackets with removable asymmetrical panels, and high-waist pants with a removable train.

Images courtesy of OMEN PR

At times this fall 2016 collection did appear disjointed with some garments that would work mostly in photo editorials. Still, for a debut outing Julian Woodhouse is on the right track. And in a market place with lots of unspectacular, pedestrian collection, Woodhouse is a refreshing addition.

—William S. Gooch

Dexterdexterdexter Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion editors are always looking for what’s next in men’s fashion or that innovative designer that is pushing menswear into new directions. The fashion industry may have just found that in the brand Dexterdexterdexter.

In only its third collection, for fall 2016 the brand looked to classic men’s silhouettes juxtaposed against the modern male consumer. Traditional silhouettes were repurposed for how the modern man lives his life and for the modern male consumer who though attracted to traditional menswear is not shy of taking a plunge toward the outré as long as the look is chic and sophisticated.

With that perspective in mind, Dexterdexterdexter took classic silhouettes and in some cases deconstructed the looks, reassembling the garments to appeal in a more contemporary way for the modern consumer. Though the brand stayed mostly with a neutral palette, this fall 2016 outing came alive when it came to the unique way the brand envision and executed clothing for the contemporary consumer.

Images courtesy of Omen PR

Skirting for men has been around for almost three decades. And most innovative menswear brands have made a foray into combining masculine and feminine silhouettes evidenced in their play on the man skirt. Dexterdexterdexter follows suit in this collection. And where some brands take on the man skirt does not reflect the DNA of the brand, Dexterdexterdexter man’s skirt fits right in with the signature aesthetic of the brand.

Standouts in the collection include the brand’s feathered man skirt, black dress jacket with black wrap man skirt, and tan man apron with white tee and trousers.

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Since Perry Ellis’ death in the mid-1980s, the Perry Ellis brand has gone through several creative directors. For the last four years, Michael Maccari has elevated the brand to explore and develop the modern American males’ evolving style and desire for more variety silhouette, construction, fabrication and texture. Understanding that the menswear market is one of most expanding markets in the fashion industry, Maccari wisely in injecting more innovation and measured risk into the Perry Ellis brand.

For fall 2016, Maccari stayed with the classic silhouettes that the brand has become known for seen through a prism of a more modern, exaggerated approach to those silhouettes. Macccari approaches the Perry Ellis classic sports jacket with his perspective on restrained volume.

Understanding that the American male consumer has become more comfortable with a wider choice of colors, tones, and fabrications, this season Maccari has incorporated deeper hues of burgundy, goldenrod, plum, colonial blue, chestnut, teal, and mauve. (Who would ever think that Perry Ellis would include a floral jacquard suit, a wool-pleated grey tracksuit, and a red flannel suit?)

And with the American male consumers more expanded embrace of fashion, for fall 2016 Maccari has included some interesting fabric combinations, textile innovations, and layerings. For example, Maccari has created a basket weave Sierra Gilet in navy paired with micro windowpane indigo suit, as well as a techno tweed suit paired matched with a Foulard printed teal shirt.

At a perfunctory glance the collection has a basic, minimalist appeal. However, at closer examination, Maccari has created a fashion mélange of complicated color palettes, fabrications and textures that seamless forward his vision of modernity and sophistication. “When you step back, you start to get the bigger picture of shape and proportion, but when you get closer, that image is actually made up of many complicated textures and colors,” explained Maccari.

Standout looks in the fall 2016 collection are Maccari’s floral jacquard suit in navy with floral jacquard Gilet and flannel shirt in colonial blue, techno shearling in navy, basket weave bomber in navy with cashmere crewneck in Bernice beige, and cashmere funnel neck in chestnut with techno tweed trousers in taupe.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With this fall 2016 collection, Maccari has made Perry Ellis a lot more relevant to younger consumers without losing his base of male consumers who like classic silhouettes. And his inventive pairings of innovative textiles, colors and fabrications will keep male consumers—particularly those opposed with style—wanting more.

—William S. Gooch

Nick Graham Fall 2016

February 5, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Coming up with an innovative collection is not the only way to get editors and industry professionals’ attention. After all, it is an arduous task to create eye-catching, innovative collections with a new perspective on silhouette, design and construction every season.

For fall 2016 Nick Graham found a way to celebrate traditional suit silhouettes with a presentation that combined an interesting inspiration—National Parks complete with park rangers. Models were perched on boxes surrounded by flora and fauna, and on occasion the flora and fauna was an extension of the clothes. Hats with huge plumes and birds attached; blossomed branches extending out of trousers; plumage spilling out of suit jackets, and floral headdresses with bird’s nest. And his inclusion of top male models such as Sebastian Suave and Travis Smith was an added attraction.

Though at times the flora and fauna embellishments were a distraction from the actual collection, overall Graham achieved his goal, a modern dissertation on suits. And Graham’s layering and pairing of polka dot, floral print shirts with pinstripe and plaid three-piece suits were fashion forward and reflects they way the modern male consumer approaches suiting.

By pairing some of the suits with hiking boots, and a sundry of hiking gear with the fitted, slim pants in this collection, Graham demonstrates that modern suiting can reflect a more relaxed, mobile lifestyle and goes beyond the more traditional, business projections of men’s suiting. In other words, modern suiting is and can be fun, and project a lifestyle of ease, comfort, and in Graham’s case, whimsy.

Images courtesy of Thomas Iannaccone/wwd.com

And that is a huge part of the charm of this collection; the whimsical affection injected each garment. Men’s suiting will never be the same!!

—William S. Gooch

SIKI IM Fall 2016

February 5, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The “Undead” as inspiration for a menswear collection, odd you might think? An odd is right. But, if any menswear brand can pull it off, SIKI IM is the brand that can do it.

For several years SIKI IM has established itself as a brand that always looked to the unique and outré for inspiration. In previous outings SIKI IM has looked to goth themes, Safari North African chic, and boyish 90’s playful styles. As most fashion pundits have noted, a wide range of influences is the norm for SIKI IM, combining the outré with urban sophistication and fashion-forward sensibility.

That said; for fall 2016 SIKI IM looked to the “Undead.” Not an unusual direction for the brand in that SIKI IM is a lover of vampire lore. Still, can SIKI IM take this macabre motif and make wearable clothes with a certain amount of chicness and sophistication.

The answer is, yes!! Though some of the ghostly painted faces and dark red paint oozing out of the mouth of the models was at times ghastly theatrical and a bit distracting, the garments were a perfect melding of great layering and a modern distillation on restrained volume. And a couple of garment combinations that were shirtless or excluded tops lent an element of sensuality and urban swagger to the collection.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

SIKI IM’s color palette choice of shades of grey, oxblood, black, and aubergine made the brand’s “Undead” reference more tangible. And the fabric choices and design silhouettes of luxurious cashmeres, woolen car coats and blazers, Teflon-coated canvas jackets and pants gave this fall 2016 collection a distinct modern projection. SIKI IM also combined this collection with separates from its extension line DEN IM. Though DEN IM’s fall 2016 inspiration was based on German art and the Bauhaus aesthetic, there was a connecting thread that worked well in pairing the extension line with SIKI IM.

—William S. Gooch