Front Row — Page 52

Duckie Brown Fall 2016

February 2, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

OK, so Duckie Brown only showed six looks for their fall 2016 runway presentation. Interesting concept!! Lots of fashion pundits and industry professionals were outraged and chagrined that one of their fan favorites would show such a skimpy collection.

Still, if you are going to present such a downsized collection, each garment better be a masterpiece. I wouldn’t call each garment in this collection a work of art, but compared to Duckie Brown’s spring 2016 collection—which was a mélange of misfires and missed opportunities—the fall 2016 collection, though miniscule, was well done and leagues above spring 2016.

Where Duckie Brown’s design aesthetic for spring 2016 somehow got very lost in translation, the fall 2016 collection was short, sweet and a return to the Duckie Brown the fashion aficionados all love. With a collection that centered on the simple white shirt and black suit, industry professionals saw the return of the oversized pants and jackets with a hint of androgyny.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Creative Directors Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s traditional white shirt altered to include a hoodie and bomber silhouette was a brilliant nod to the athleisure wear trend. And the design duo’s boxy, oversized double-breasted jacket and additional topcoats was an interesting and fitting homage to the brand’s penchant for minimalism.

Less is more was the order of the day for Duckie Brown’s fall 2016 collection. And it actually worked!! Who says a collection has to have 25-plus garments? If you can show your design brilliance in what amounts to a small capsule, why not!! 2016 is all about finding what works, and if short and sweet works, go for it!!

—William S. Gooch

Suitsupply Fall 2016

February 2, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Most men love a nicely tailored suit; especially, if the suit collection includes a variety of textures, fabrics and aligns itself with a modern projection of the finely dressed man. For fall 2016 Suitsupply does all of that, and more.

Inspired by a stroll around New York City’s Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) and the great works of art like Mark Rothko’s “ No. 3/No.13,” which highlights Rothko’s iconic “multiform” method of blurred blocks of transitioning colors, the Suitsupply design team began to re-examine how the lines and shape of their suit silhouettes could be made to render a more uniformed wholesome approach to perspective, color and tone. The suits became a canvas to facilitate Suitsupply’s design team’s new perspective on their modern distillation and projection of where their design aesthetic could go.

Though the fall 2016 collection did not stray very far away from the classic suit silhouettes the Suitsupply is becoming known for, the infusion of the incredible color palettes of the warmer shades of copper, emerald, deep ocean blue, and hues inspired by the colorful terrains of Afghanistan and Tibet elevated and injected a contemporary approach to the classic suit.

The fall 2016 collection incorporated looks of layering that was informed by the Mark Rothko’s brush stroke approach. And by supplemented the classic suits with vests, knit sweaters and bodywarmers, the Suitsupply design team provided a more casual, relaxed quality to the collection. Also, the cashmere options in palettes of soft grey, camel, and off-white brought more texture to the fore.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With this collection, Suitsupply proves that classic suiting does not have to be boring. And, additionally the incredibly handsome male models from Soul Artist Management were an extra bonus for this fall 2016 collection. Though Suitsupply was founded in Amsterdam, founder Fokke de Jong really understands the way American men want to dress.

—William S. Gooch

ELLERY Pre-Fall 2016

January 19, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of CM Media PR

As most designers this season continued to look to the 1970s for inspiration, ELLERY followed suit by also referencing the era of disco, bell bottomed pants, and sparkle and shine.

Unlike many design houses, ELLERY stayed away from the 70’s era obvious choice, disco/Studio 54. Instead, the New Zealand design house drew inspiration from another dance form, the staged theatrical stylings of Bob Fosse.

“Cabaret” and “Pippin” images courtesy of tumblr.com

Fosse, perhaps, was at the height of his choreographic genius in the 70s. During this period Fosse created some of most pivotal work. From “Pippin” to “Dancin” to “Chicago,”—you also have to include the classic film “Cabaret” and the dance cult film “All that Jazz”—Fosse incorporated the release from sexual inhibitions of the past and the exquisite synthesis of ballet, modern, theater dance, and lyrical jazz all seen through his special vision of theatre and dance.

Image courtesy of CM Media PR

For pre-fall 2016, ELLERY attempted to capture Fosse’s flair for the theatrical and flamboyant sensibility in a collection that harkens back to an era in fashion where the unusual and show stopping garments were showcased a lot more frequently. The standard 70s silhouettes of bell bottomed pants and a juxtaposition of masculine and feminine forms are a definite part of this outing, and interestingly those elements are hallmarks of Fosse’s choreography.

Still, creative director Kym Ellery takes these elements a step further. Bell bottomed pants flair out at the knees and end above the ankles. Masculine topcoats and jackets reveal more feminine silhouettes underneath. And the neutral color palette—which is the primary color palette in the collection—is more modern and utilitarian in scope than what was employed in the 70s.

Images courtesy of CM Media PR

The individual pieces nod to the 1970’s with a uniquely modern riff. Fabric choices harmoniously clash; traditional suiting and British silk houndstooth meeting foam jersey, Japanese cupro, and Swiss lurex net. Classic suits are reinterpreted in the ELLERY vein with flared trousers, slim coats and drawstring blazers all accented with contrasting buttons. A classically monochromatic color palette is highlighted with metallic electric blue and moss green, burgundy, rust and a dash of leopard print.

Images courtesy of CM Media PR

Though this pre-fall 2016 outing borders on the theatrical and avant garde, there are a significant amount of wearable pieces in the collection. After all, ELLERY’s design aesthetic is not for the faint of heart, but for that fashion risk taker. And this collection definitely lives up to the brand’s style DNA. And we are better for it!!

—William S. Gooch

ELOQUII’s Pre-Spring 2016 “Sweet Spots” Collection

January 7, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

If you live on the East Coast, winter weather is finally here. And though east coasters have barely started wearing winter garments, some pre-spring 2016 collections will be in stores very soon. You might think this is an odd business model, particularly as you are shivering from the winter chill and winter clothes are widely discounted across the country. However, that is the way retail works in the US. Remember, the retail market needs new product in the stores every six weeks.

That said; for those curvy girls who love fashion-forward spring clothes and long for warmer temperatures, ELOQUII debuts its first pre-spring collection, Sweet Spots. ELOQUII is quickly becoming one of the premier go-to fashion brands for curvy women who want affordable, trendy style. ELOQUII has solidly placed itself as a brand that understands how the modern curvy wants to dress.

This first pre-spring collection from the brand combines two classic ELOQUII prints, the humble dot—hence, the collection moniker “Sweet Spots”—and a striking leopard print, perfectly suited for the spring season. Blush pinks in combination with bold, graphic prints, create a balance among ladylike silhouettes and romantic details. Dresses, tops, skirts, and pants can be mixed and matched or worn as separates in the warmer season ahead.

And staying on trend, ELOQUII brings back the Peter Pan collar. The Peter Pan collar popped up on runways for spring 2010, referencing styles from the 1960s. And the Peter Pan collar trend keeps coming back every other season. Where some brands have re-invented the Peter Pan collar, as detachables or connected to shirts with flouncy ties and bows as seen in Chloe’s spring 2016 collection, ELOQUII has opted for more traditional fare, appropriately reflecting 60’s trends.

Images courtesy of LaForce Stevens

ELOQUII’s pre-spring “Sweet Spots” 2016 collection is now available online. ELOQUII caters to curvy women, sized 14–24. For more information, go to eloquii.com.

—William S. Gooch

Sachin & Babi Noir Pre-Fall 2016

December 20, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Since 2009, the design husband and wife duo, Sachin & Babi has had their fingers on the pulse of the modern woman’s ever-evolving desire to have beauty in her life that matches her expanded lifestyle. Their pre-fall 2016 collection reflects Sachin & Babi’s evolution as a design team and their particular understanding of the vicissitudinous nature of the fashion industry.

The directional shift of Sachin & Babi is perhaps most reflected in a name change of the eponymous brand to Sachin & Babi Noir with a focus primarily on eveningwear. What was once just a offshoot to their more well-known namesake line, Sachin & Babi have now fused Noir into their singular design projection.

For pre-fall 2016 where some brands abandoned the trend of big floral prints from last season for fall/winter collections in favor of lots of fringe and reinventions of the classic Chanel jackets with unfinished edges in light tweeds, light metallic, or trans-seasonal fabrics for pre-fall 2016 Sachin & Babi decided to stay with big floral prints for pre-fall funneled through the prism of floral explosions seen in Frida Kahlo paintings.

Staying the course with big floral prints not only sets Sachin & Babi apart from pre-fall 2016 collections but also demonstrates their design acumen in re-imaging the continuing trend of big floral prints. Off-the-shoulder blouses paired with embroidered and appliqued big floral skirts in bold but more somber variations of pale skty blue, cobalt blue, and turmeric yellow expands consumers’ choice of color palettes that now have a more trans-seasonal appeal. Encompassing the ruffle trend from last season was expertly and subtly married with asymmetrical cuts and cutaway silhouettes.

Images courtesy of Sachin & Babi Noir

Though this collection was more focused on eveningwear, the many separates in the collection could easily be paired with a variety of daywear items. Still, there were lots of reference points and cultural influences for pre-fall—Spanish matador, 1950s tea-length dresses, and Fridal Kahlo—that all managed to meld into one continuous design kaleidoscope, without one motif overpowering the others.

—William S. Gooch

St. John Pre-Fall 2016

December 20, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Brands are put under tremendous pressure each year to create more and more collections in order to satisfy consumers’ ever-expanding taste for more and more diverse product. And retail stores and boutiques need to satisfy that desire. Instead of the standard three to four collections a year, major fashion brands now create anywhere from six to eight collections with deliveries reaching consumers way ahead of the actual season.

Spring clothes hit the stores as early as mid-January and fall clothes appear on the racks in late June. That said; some brands are delivering pre-fall as early as late April. This accelerated delivery pace is due to retailers needing new product every six weeks, as well as changing weather patterns that produce a growing need from trans-seasonal clothes.

St. John has adapted to these vicissitudes of retail without losing its distinctive signature aesthetic. Where other brands sometimes lose brand identity because of the ever-evolving pace of modern retail, St. John has found a way to incorporate these new directions and excel. Which is surprising for a brand that has been around for over fifty years and has not abandoned its penchant for knits in a market where new textile technologies and trans-seasonal diaphanous fabrics are the order of the day.

St. John creative director Greg Myler drew inspiration for the pre-fall 2016 collection from North Africa. This inspiration is made evident in Arabian tile mosaics and graphic shapes that translated into some ombre effects in the collection or in some great jackets that looked like a modern ‘coat of many colors.’

Images courtesy of wwd.com

The unfinished edges of the jackets at first glance might conjure images of Chanel jackets that have been re-imaged ad nauseam; however, at closer examination the unfinished edges are reminiscent of Moroccan woven rugs and cushions. And though this collection is heavy with St. John’s signature knits and sometimes reflects Yves St. Laurent of the 1960s—remember, Yves St. Laurent was Moroccan—Myler’s approach is very current and fits the way modern women live their lives.

—William S. Gooch

2(X)IST Spring 2016

October 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

When a fashion brand has become closely identified with one very specific product or signature look is it possible for that brand to expand its signature aesthetic to include other elements that expands the brand’s consumer base? Depending on the fashion brand, hard question to answer. The repositioning or recalculating of a fashion brand’s design aesthetic in an already saturated market can sometimes be to its benefit to the brand or other times to its demise.

2(X)IST is not only positioning itself to ask this answer, but also to answer the question in its own unique way. Once identified only a men’s underwear brand, 2(X)IST is attempting to position itself in the ever-growing athletic wear market. Consumers say evidence of this in collections from the last couple of seasons.

That said; the continuing trend of ‘athleisure’ wear—athletic clothing re-conceptualized as daywear that can transition to workout gear or with a few added accessories, even a night-out-on-the-town wear—serves 2(X)IST creative director Jason Scarlatti. And the trend of ‘athleisure’ actually comes to fore almost as much as the brand’s underwear in their spring 2016 collection.

In this 25^th Anniversary collection, Scarlatti included quite a few women’s look, totaling the runway looks to 58. While some fashion pundits might contend that the women’s looks for a distraction for the beefy male models, the women’s looks could be described as a visual rest from all the athletic hunkiness that usually parades up and down 2(X)IST’s runway shows. (Trust, there was lots of muscle and sinew to go around.)

From Oraine Barrett, Andrea Denver, and Parker Gregory to Andre Ziehe, Nyle DiMarco, Kevin and Jonathan Sampaio, 2(X)IST always have some the top male models in the fashion industry. And now with the addition of female models, the circle is now complete.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, the bigger question to be proffered is if the brand’s expansion into ‘athleisure’ wear is going to prove commercially viable for 2(X)IST? Though the only the fashion gods know the answer, if the response from the exiting audience is any indication, Scarlatti is on the right track.

Standout looks in the collection were the brand’s full-zip white jacket, micro cross-back sport bra in pink glow, short sleeve V-neck sweatshirt in light grey heather, cotton no-show trunk in fractal Chevron dazzling blue, embossed muscle sweatshirt in Limoges, tipped polo in Limoges, and tapered sweatshirt in chambray heather.

—William S. Gooch

Carol Hannah Bridal Fall 2016

October 11, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Carol Hannah was inspired by natural beauty of the sea for her fall 2016 bridal collection. Hannah’s “Siren Call” collection was a celebration of fluidity, texture and relaxed femininity.

These themes of femininity, fluidity and even sea references are nothing new to Carol Hannah. For a few seasons, Hannah has established herself a bridal designer who draws inspiration from the fluidity of movement, relaxed charm with an embrace of the softness of the feminine silhouette. All these points of reference fit nicely with Hannah’s predilection for water motifs. A motif that was obvious in Hannah’s fall 2015 bridal collection.

The Hannah bride is not necessarily the traditional bride. This modern bride wants something that is different, sets her apart, and envisions her bridal day as a reflection of her personality, mood and perspective on life.

Though the Hannah bride is stylish and fashion forward, the Hannah bride is definitely not afraid to take risks and her bridal ceremony could easily be on the beach, in a dewy mountain retreat on some other nontraditional venue, probably attended by guests whose mode of being reflect a more relaxed approach to life. In other words, this collection could be deemed a destination bridal collection.

That said; Hannah’s design aesthetic is not hippy dippy, nor is it a modern version of “Lucy in the sky with diamonds” 60s flower child wedding garb. Hannah’s bridal design aesthetic is her own interpretation of a modern-day bride. It is both now and next, which what fashion should be.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection were Hannah’s asymmetrical cloud of silk crinkle georgette with opal beading, flotsam and jetsam open weave jacquard gown with fishtail detailing, gold foiled open weave linen ballgown with corseted bustier, and jellyfish trim shorty.

—William S. Gooc

Galia Lahav Bridal Fall 2016

October 10, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of theknot.com

When it comes to bridal haute couture no brand does it better than Galia Lahav. For over 30 years, Galia Lahav has set her brand a part by establishing herself as a designer that understands how to marry her signature aesthetic of illusion backs, cascading silk tulle skirts and Italian ivory lace with a modern perspective.

For her fall bridal 2016 collection Gothic architecture and medieval silhouettes inspired Lahav. Though this inspiration could be seen as a much used and dusty point of reference, Lahav ingeniously conjured up a modern interpretation of medieval structure combined with her signature aesthetic of illusion backs, and feminine form-fitting silhouettes.

Image courtesy of theknot.com

This season Lahav also incorporated some crop tops and more bridal short dresses. Though shorter than the traditional bridal tea dress, these looks still maintained their attachment to the bridal tradition by encompassing long silk tulle trains and lacey, sequined bodices. And Lahav added to the drama of her fall 2016 collection in the latter part of the runway show by having her models adorned with elaborate headpieces.

Standout looks in the collection were Lahav’s lacey fit-to-flare halter gown with silk tulle train with floral lace embellishments, floral lace illusion bodice gown with silk chiffon skirt, and long-sleeved lace gown with side illusion cutouts.

—William S. Gooch

Isabelle Armstrong Bridal Fall 2016

October 10, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Isabelle Armstrong’s design aesthetic has evolved. Where in previous collections Armstrong’s concentrated her bridal looks that appealed to wide bridal demographic. From ostrich-feathered short bridal dresses to asymmetrically cut bridal gowns, Isabelle Armstrong’s appeal was wide reaching and in step with brides who wanted elegance with modern touches.

For fall 2016, Isabelle Armstrong was inspired by the documentary “Dior and I. The “Dior and I” documentary took a detailed behind-the-scenes look of one of the most iconic designers of the 20^th Century.

That said; Isabelle Armstrong has distilled the elegance and sophistication that was so much a part of the House of Dior into the fall 2016 collection. This collection showcases an array of timeless designs, beautifully draped silks, delicate laces, unusual fabrications and a boldly colored statement piece that will be sure to surprise this season.

“We love the creativity of couture fashion and appreciate the beauty of old world, classic design,” says Isabelle Armstrong President, Remy Quinones. “The overall theme of this collection celebrates timeless glamour and sophistication. We believe that elegance is the new sexy.”

Images courtesy of wwd.com

There were many great looks in this fall 2016 collection, particularly the early cashmere looks in the collection, which includes the ivory cashmere twin set with beaded jewel appliques work with layered tulle ball skirt. Other standouts of the fall 2016 collection are Armstrong’s floor-length angora cardigan with kimono sleeves and beaded trim worn with two-piece strapless dress lace bustier with draped crepe skirt, silk satin fit-and-flare gown with V jeweled illusion neckline with bow-detailed skirt, lace-printed Italian silk organza ball gown with beaded embroidery on bodice, and strapless silk-faille ball gown with top-stitched corset bodice and jeweled neckline.

—William S. Gooch